Guaranteed to stop budrot.

[avant gardener]

Potassium Silciate in your nutrient solution. Nova in Canada or Eagle 20 in the US.

apologies in advance if my frankness offends you.

read the manual homes.
eagle 20 is NOT indicated for botrytis.

i understand why folks use it, and i run straight water culture with mineral nutes, sterilizing agnets, etc., so i'm definitely no enviro-nerd. that said, this sort of irresponsible misuse and willful ignorance is exactly the reason that the organic set looks down on anyone who uses chemical pesticides, even those of us who do so properly.

much as i hate to say it, they may have a point. if you don't care enough to even figure out what pests a dangerous chemical treats—and make no mistake, myclobutanil is dangerous—then there is no reason to believe that you would have the good sense to bother rotating chemicals to avoid resistance or to even make sure you use them in a manner which minimizes harm to your patients, the environment, and yourself.

with all due respect, i think you might do well to pick up a book on organic gardening. leave the hazardous stuff to people who will take the time to learn how it works.

 

[Neo 420]

If you are constantly getting bud rot, there is a underlying problem (unless you are growing giant ass colas evrery cycle). It's environment. Humidity, air circulation, temp, pruning when needed. Or maybe you have a spore source near you......

 

[OgKennyKush]

bud rot is a fucking killer.
along with root rot it's been the bane of my existence as a grower.
i've tried a few things with varying success.

my favorite—and nobody ever talks about it— is bayer flint. it's the only systemic i know of that works against botrytis. it'll give you about 50 days of protection so use it before you flip. it's a chemical, so treat it with respect, but it's relatively safe. approved for agricultural use. not acutely toxic. no known carcinogenic or mutagenic properties.

the shit is pretty expensive, but it's a lot cheaper than a crop failure.
it's also indicated for powdery mildew.
and a couple dozen other things, most of which don't concern us:


actinovate is the very only thing i'd spray if mold is already present. it's a decent product that saved my ass. i have used it on the day of harvest on the handful of flowers i salvaged out of a room that was ravaged by mold. and the stuff actually worked.

green cure burns plants and actually accelerates mold growth if you've already got a problem.
serenade smells like dead things and doesn't work well.

for thems that's got bud rot already, nothing's gonna get it off those plants. you may be able to slow it long enough not to lose the whole damn thing though. first thing is to get the bad shit gone without spreading it. here's the protocol an og gave me that i've posted a couple times. it's a pain in the arse, but it works.

Will actinovate prevent budrot,in a high humidity enviroment?

 

[TribalSeeds]

Actinovate is really meant to be used as a preventative treatment. Lowering the humidity and increasing airflow would still be the best idea.

 

[avant gardener]

keep your RH below 60% if at all possible.
keep air moving through your top colas.
open them up a little with your (gloved) fingers from time to time. GENTLY.
keep moisture off your flowers.
keep your plants healthy (high brix, pH'd properly, etc).
this is the very best defense.

nothing is an absolute guarantee against rot.
i use flint if i know conditions may be favorable for mold growth.
i use actinovate as a general prophylactic.

hope that helps.

 

[overmyhead]

Avant, at what rate do you apply the flint, the label has per acre directions. Also, what is your overal protocol with actinovate for prophylactic purposes? Dosage, frequency etc.

Thanks!

keep your RH below 60% if at all possible.
keep air moving through your top colas.
open them up a little with your (gloved) fingers from time to time. GENTLY.
keep moisture off your flowers.
keep your plants healthy (high brix, pH'd properly, etc).
this is the very best defense.

nothing is an absolute guarantee against rot.
i use flint if i know conditions may be favorable for mold growth.
i use actinovate as a general prophylactic.

hope that helps.

 

[Mcb148]

I know this is an old thread but I'm very interested in using ozone to combat some bud rot growing on my girls. Any success stories?

 

[Granger2]

Actinovate: First, check the shelf life date before buying. I've been successful with preventive sprays at 10 day intervals. If you see fungus, go to 7 day interval. Tribal is right about air flow and lower humidity. I like no more than 50% RH. Good luck. -granger

 

[krunchbubble]

Everyone says keep their humidity below THIS or THAT...

The BEST growers run their rooms using VPD, running humidity in the high 60-70%, get insane yields and NO bud rot...

For years I ran all my rooms under 20% humidity and got the worst bud rot for a long time....

Now im running my rooms using VPD and get ZERO rot...

Im certain its more of a plant health issue then and humidity issue...

Also a strain issue as a GDP will rot under just about any circumstance and a GSC has never seen rot in the history of it being grown...

 

[rykus]

I must be fuk'in mine up good cause I got rot all through my forum cut.... Wasn't going to do much of it again because of it.... Nutrient issue I guess for sure...damn..

 

[Tynehead Tom]

I've got a wee little greenhouse going up here at 52.5 N , 3000feet elevation.
Plants are at weeks 6 (of 8 and 9)
I've already culled 3, 4 ft black tuna bushes weeks ago from lower stem mold , even before the buds were formed LOL
The rest of my plants, I thinned and lollipopped, spaced them out a bit more, added a vinyl floor over the grass floor, put in 2 heaters that blow below the canopy into the lollipopped zone.
I gotta be outside every morning and every evening and multiple times during the days to monitor condensation. Specific times of the day , as the temps and direct sunlight changes, or if it's raining, I have to be out there watching the humidity and doing whatever it takes to prevent condensation.
One corner gets it but there is no plant there. I wipe that corner daily to remove the droplets from the ceiling. I can't run enough power out there to also run a dehumidifier. Running 2 quality ceramic heaters, one oscillates. vents in ceiling are small and never close. Side walls open 8 inches down the sides.

was -4 celcius overnight...... and at 9:30 am it was only plus 2C . The sun hit the greenhouse and in literally minutes, the whole inside of the greenhouse plastic started to fog up. Opened the side vents, opened the door flap by the oscillating heater and watched the fog disappear.... just like the car window defrost on a chilly damp morning hahaha

I sprayed my plants 3 times with Serenade, stems only and have been spot spraying Potassium Carbonate/H202/wetting agent otherwise. Molds have not spread to any new sites in over 2 weeks and many sites healed completely. I haven't really seen powdery mildew though saw the white circles that could be the beginning of it or they were evaporated spots from drips.... hard to tell but I spray them when I see them.
The two sprays have literally saved my garden, though I have 2 real nice shiskaberry bushes that seem to be extremely resistant because I inoculated 4 branches on each with the stem mold ..... waited till in formed and in some spots it didn't form at all.... sprayed the serenade once...... and out of 8 sites I infected on purpose..... only 2 sites on 1 plant have any evidence and it seems to be disappearing with continued treatments of the PC/H202/wetting agent.
everyones climate is different tho so some products might work here, but not work elsewhere?
kinda new at battling molds and mildews but whatever I'm doing is working fer now LOL

 

[kalopatchkid]

Good genetics and good air movement is probably the most helpful at preventing rot.

Bud Rot is on the minds of us Hawaii growers 24/7, if there was a guaranteed product we would be using it lol. Good Genetics will always be king of the jungle.

 

[BillFarthing]

Greenhouse systemic fungicides like Switch and Pristine are great systemics against grey molds for strawberries. It would also kill botrytis in cannabis, but you'd have to check the half life so you aren't smoking the stuff. Captan will prevent bud rot and also helps control PM.

 

[cyat]

Regalia