Just for the record, the active ingredient in greencure is Potassium bicarbonate... not sodium.
mgk
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Just for the record, the active ingredient in greencure is Potassium bicarbonate... not sodium.
mgk
NOTHING!!!!!
EVERYTHING previously mentioned are bandaids, with the exception of Grapeman's remedy, he does know what he is talking about in this regard....
if there was a CURE for budrot, i would of heard about and used it by now. its the ONLY thing i cant cure....
EVERYTHING previously mentioned are bandaids, with the exception of Grapeman's remedy, he does know what he is talking about in this regard....
if there was a CURE for budrot, i would of heard about and used it by now. its the ONLY thing i cant cure....
I know this is a lil late but the main determinant is humidity genetics and the change in day/nightime temps. I had a similar situation with Grandaddy purps. Almost every run only that strain got budrot. It has very dense buds with a lot of leaves leaving a lot of openings for spores to enter. density+alot of leaves=bud rot. I have used eagle 20 (the most toxic of toxic chems, its systemic) very early in veg and still got bud rot around week 6 of flower even with the humidity down at 45%. The problem is that once one bud gets infected you need to assume the whole room is infected. Check on your plants at least once a day for signs of the rot and if spotted immediately cut it the infected AREA down with a clean blade and remove it immediately. There are some things ive learned over the years that put an end to my bud rot problems. I have sealed rooms with a UCV light in the air handler( this slows down the spread of spores) I have 2 oscillating fans per tray, Have been playing with certain ingredients to activate the SAR response in the plant (chitosin), I am about to start foliar sprayes with ACT tea, Early flower to mid flower there is a 5 degree variance in day/night temps and late flower about a 8 degree max variance so my RH dosnt spike, and I top plants more giving me many smaller buds instead of monsters. I finally got my GDP's budrot under control, I was forced to stop running this strain tho because inorder for me to get a nice purple color out of it I was forced to drop the night temps very low that caused huge RH spikes. The bud rot usually set in week 7 a couple days after i would drop the night time temps. I now run strains with high calyx to leaf ratios and havent seen bud rot for a long time!!!
T
TribalSeeds
Have you looked into actinovate? I havent read of many people using it, but judging by responses from people who have, it seems like it works.
Have you added a lot of silica?
Have you added a lot of silica?
TheBioMaster
Member
Ozone generators will kill the spores that are in the air which cause the bud rot. This method works and you do not have to keep buying expensive chemicals that normally do more harm than good....this would only be a solution to an indoor garden....
The change in night and day temps is a crucial point as well for controlling it.....basically you change the environment conditions to NOT support the spores, so they will not thrive....the spores are EVERYWHERE so it is important to control conditions as eliminating ALL spores is just not a viable option. By controlling the environment conditions the spores have trouble surviving, and this translates to a solution to bud rot.
Genetic selection is also a VERY important part of it. It should be based on geographics meaning if your growing a strain that originally is found in dry areas of the earth, and you live in very wet areas of the earth, then your going to have problems......genetic selection should be based on your geographic location and conditions.
Bud Rot can be eliminated just as easily as any other problem, you just need to use the right approach and methods.
Cheers!
The change in night and day temps is a crucial point as well for controlling it.....basically you change the environment conditions to NOT support the spores, so they will not thrive....the spores are EVERYWHERE so it is important to control conditions as eliminating ALL spores is just not a viable option. By controlling the environment conditions the spores have trouble surviving, and this translates to a solution to bud rot.
Genetic selection is also a VERY important part of it. It should be based on geographics meaning if your growing a strain that originally is found in dry areas of the earth, and you live in very wet areas of the earth, then your going to have problems......genetic selection should be based on your geographic location and conditions.
Bud Rot can be eliminated just as easily as any other problem, you just need to use the right approach and methods.
Cheers!
TheBioMaster
Member
Neither a high ph or the addition of a silica additive will provide any defense at all against the spores in the air that cause the bud rot. FYI
Bud Rot is caused by a "condition" of the environment that allows the spores to thrive and prevail. Treating the condition of your environment will be the most effective way to combat this type of problem. Environment conditions includes temp, RH, and also the difference in day and night temps which as mentioned is a most critical factor. Airflow and space between plants is also a important condition of the environment.
What you have in your solution (silica) and what you foliar with is all type measures that should be used to help and maintain a healthy environment.
EVERYONE on this planet has these spores in the air as they are everywhere. The reason some get it some do not is because the people that get it have a environment that supports these ever present spores to thrive.
You also have to factor in genetics and geographic location into the equation as mentioned.
Bud Rot is caused by a "condition" of the environment that allows the spores to thrive and prevail. Treating the condition of your environment will be the most effective way to combat this type of problem. Environment conditions includes temp, RH, and also the difference in day and night temps which as mentioned is a most critical factor. Airflow and space between plants is also a important condition of the environment.
What you have in your solution (silica) and what you foliar with is all type measures that should be used to help and maintain a healthy environment.
EVERYONE on this planet has these spores in the air as they are everywhere. The reason some get it some do not is because the people that get it have a environment that supports these ever present spores to thrive.
You also have to factor in genetics and geographic location into the equation as mentioned.
bud rot first attacks unhealthy parts of the plant or parts of the plant that have an unhealthy micro environment (core of dense buds that dont get proper air circulation for example)
high ph kills spores it contacts
the silica thickens the cell walls
proper microbiology inoculates the soil and plant
it doesn't directly prevent bud rot it facilitates a healthy plant that will be more resistant to it
serenade is bacillus subtilis which is a basic bacteria in most amendments with bacteria offering plant immunity defense
green cure washes away and biases the soil when it does and at the higher recommended dose burns hairs in flower
if you cant control the macro environment you can properly mange the micro environment
TheBioMaster
Member
Lets try this one more time.....if you do not attack the SOURCE of the problem those measures will not be good enough to stop it.....until you start treating the conditions of the environment it will not be enough which is why so many experience failed attempts at trying to stop it and waste countless hours of time and money on products that do not work.
You have to use the right tools for the job. The things you mentioned are great as preventative measures to HELP, but you need to address and correct your environment conditions if you ever plan to stop it.
You seem to be stuck on the ph thing, and raising your ph will do exactly sqwat to the SPORES IN THE AIR THAT CAUSE THE ROT!!The spores do not live in the nutrient solution, they live and travel IN THE AIR! Foliar spraying is not recommended in flowering and will only make the condition worse in most cases. It is no wonder people have so many problems with rot when then do not even understand HOW or WHAT bud rot is and what causes it.
Using a ozone generator for example will KILL the spores in the air that cause bud rot. Combine this with controlled temps and RH and good spacing and air flow and you will NOT need to do anything else and you will NOT get bud rot.
Your ph needs to be maintained for proper nutrient uptake for starters and is NOT a tool to combat bud rot with plain and simple. I can not stress this enough. Using ph as a tool for bud rot is like trying to use a screwdriver to drive a nail in...you may or may not succeed, but if you use the right tool, like a hammer, you are almost guaranteed success! Common sense at play here hopefully.....
Silica is a great additive but again, not the right tool for the job at hand.
I can not tell you how many times that this has worked to solve the most WORST bud rot cases imaginable!
You have to use the right tools for the job. The things you mentioned are great as preventative measures to HELP, but you need to address and correct your environment conditions if you ever plan to stop it.
You seem to be stuck on the ph thing, and raising your ph will do exactly sqwat to the SPORES IN THE AIR THAT CAUSE THE ROT!!The spores do not live in the nutrient solution, they live and travel IN THE AIR! Foliar spraying is not recommended in flowering and will only make the condition worse in most cases. It is no wonder people have so many problems with rot when then do not even understand HOW or WHAT bud rot is and what causes it.
Using a ozone generator for example will KILL the spores in the air that cause bud rot. Combine this with controlled temps and RH and good spacing and air flow and you will NOT need to do anything else and you will NOT get bud rot.
Your ph needs to be maintained for proper nutrient uptake for starters and is NOT a tool to combat bud rot with plain and simple. I can not stress this enough. Using ph as a tool for bud rot is like trying to use a screwdriver to drive a nail in...you may or may not succeed, but if you use the right tool, like a hammer, you are almost guaranteed success! Common sense at play here hopefully.....
Silica is a great additive but again, not the right tool for the job at hand.
I can not tell you how many times that this has worked to solve the most WORST bud rot cases imaginable!
I wouldn't want to be breathing ozone constantly while I'm in my grow room. Making sure you have a healthy room with low humidity, plenty of circulation, good temps, the right nutes incl. silicates, will give you a good chance to prevent an outbreak.
Actinovate is a fungicidal streptomycin producing bacteria that has worked for me and others. I sprayed my buds again with it last night. Nothing is fool proof, except maybe ozone. Ozone is toxic to fungi and their spores, and to humans and plants. Good luck. -granger
Actinovate is a fungicidal streptomycin producing bacteria that has worked for me and others. I sprayed my buds again with it last night. Nothing is fool proof, except maybe ozone. Ozone is toxic to fungi and their spores, and to humans and plants. Good luck. -granger
TheBioMaster
Member
Ozone is not dangerous when used properly, and that is a popular MYTH! Ozone has been used effectively for MANY uses in AG for many many years!!
It is actually the opposite of dangerous when used CORRECTLY and it is one of the more safer bets for sure!
When you use a ozone generator you have to calculate how big your room is, and how much ozone your generator can produce, ect...as long as you do not OVER produce to much ozone then there is nothing left for you to breath in.....They also make ozone detectors to measure the amount of ozone in the air, like with C02 meters.....
Saying ozone is dangerous is like saying C02 is dangerous.....if you jack the C02 levels up to around 1500PPM to 2500PPM and then go in your sealed room with ALL that C02 in the air you will be dead soon....so I guess we should not use C02 either going by Granger2's misguided logic......anything is dangerous if not used properly is my point here.....
The great thing about using Ozone is there are no residuals left behind to do harm.
Keep using these expensive chemicals and spraying shit on your buds if you want, but there for SURE is a BETTER way!
Most people are clueless about ozone and how to use it and what it does.....instead they listen to MYTHS like the one posted by Granger2 suggesting chemicals that DO leave behind a residue of who knows what....and is not really effective.
Good luck!
PS- I have posted how great ozone works against stopping bud rot, and I am not here to try and change anyone's mind about what you use to stop bud rot with.....I do not have the time for that.....so if anyone wants or need further help setting up a ozone generator to combat bud rot and other plant problems, please send me a PM or start a new thread as I will not be returning to this one as I think it would just be repeating what I have already posted that has been PROVEN to work time and time again for many many years now......
It is actually the opposite of dangerous when used CORRECTLY and it is one of the more safer bets for sure!
When you use a ozone generator you have to calculate how big your room is, and how much ozone your generator can produce, ect...as long as you do not OVER produce to much ozone then there is nothing left for you to breath in.....They also make ozone detectors to measure the amount of ozone in the air, like with C02 meters.....
Saying ozone is dangerous is like saying C02 is dangerous.....if you jack the C02 levels up to around 1500PPM to 2500PPM and then go in your sealed room with ALL that C02 in the air you will be dead soon....so I guess we should not use C02 either going by Granger2's misguided logic......anything is dangerous if not used properly is my point here.....
The great thing about using Ozone is there are no residuals left behind to do harm.
Keep using these expensive chemicals and spraying shit on your buds if you want, but there for SURE is a BETTER way!
Most people are clueless about ozone and how to use it and what it does.....instead they listen to MYTHS like the one posted by Granger2 suggesting chemicals that DO leave behind a residue of who knows what....and is not really effective.
Good luck!
PS- I have posted how great ozone works against stopping bud rot, and I am not here to try and change anyone's mind about what you use to stop bud rot with.....I do not have the time for that.....so if anyone wants or need further help setting up a ozone generator to combat bud rot and other plant problems, please send me a PM or start a new thread as I will not be returning to this one as I think it would just be repeating what I have already posted that has been PROVEN to work time and time again for many many years now......
http://www.health.nsw.gov.au/factsheets/environmental/ozone_generators.html
Excerpts from Aussie gov article:
Available scientific evidence shows that ozone concentrations that are safe to breathe are unlikely to be effective in controlling indoor air pollution.
An ozone generator is a device designed to produce the gas ozone. Ozone is used effectively in water purification, but ozone in air must reach high levels to remove air pollutants
Health experts warn that it is important to control conditions to ensure that no person or pet becomes exposed to high levels of ozone. Ozone also masks the odour of some pollutants by impairing a person's sense of smell.
Further, ozone is not effective for killing bacteria or mould in materials such as air conditioning duct lining and ceiling tiles
Exposure to ozone:
can cause eye, nose, throat and lung irritation, cough and shortness of breath
may exacerbate chronic respiratory diseases such as asthma
is likely to increase hospital admissions and emergency room visits for respiratory disease
can also adversely affect indoor plants, and damage materials such as rubber, electrical wire coatings, and fabrics.
Since TheBioMaster ran away he can't tell us how to use it "properly." That's a shame, since it's also the ONLY way to control Bud Rot. Good luck. -granger
Excerpts from Aussie gov article:
Available scientific evidence shows that ozone concentrations that are safe to breathe are unlikely to be effective in controlling indoor air pollution.
An ozone generator is a device designed to produce the gas ozone. Ozone is used effectively in water purification, but ozone in air must reach high levels to remove air pollutants
Health experts warn that it is important to control conditions to ensure that no person or pet becomes exposed to high levels of ozone. Ozone also masks the odour of some pollutants by impairing a person's sense of smell.
Further, ozone is not effective for killing bacteria or mould in materials such as air conditioning duct lining and ceiling tiles
Exposure to ozone:
can cause eye, nose, throat and lung irritation, cough and shortness of breath
may exacerbate chronic respiratory diseases such as asthma
is likely to increase hospital admissions and emergency room visits for respiratory disease
can also adversely affect indoor plants, and damage materials such as rubber, electrical wire coatings, and fabrics.
Since TheBioMaster ran away he can't tell us how to use it "properly." That's a shame, since it's also the ONLY way to control Bud Rot. Good luck. -granger
^ROTFLMAO..Some peoples kids,lol
I had had varying degrees of success with greencure.It has both worked, and ruined crops.
The reasons it worked, I believe was that we applied the greencure BEFORE the botrytis was present.Plus I was in a very dry climate, no rain from May till Oct. Greencure does great in a dry environment.
Now, Greencure has also ruined a bunch of crops. More than once.
One time we sprayed, it actually gave the whole crop botrytis The nugs were mold free, then after soaking them with green cure, within 2 days the we had ruined plants that molded out. Only the plants we did not spray were mold free.
Another time, we saw some mold and sprayed, Nada, nothing, just accelerated how fast the plant went to shit. As misleading as the name is, its NOT A CURE. It's a preventitive measure, not a cure.
If your gonna use greeencure, you must spray BEFORE mold takes hold, otherwise those sopping wet, soaked nugs will be molded out faster than you can say "OH SHIT!!!"
Just my 2 cents.
Good luck, and may the force be with you
I had had varying degrees of success with greencure.It has both worked, and ruined crops.
The reasons it worked, I believe was that we applied the greencure BEFORE the botrytis was present.Plus I was in a very dry climate, no rain from May till Oct. Greencure does great in a dry environment.
Now, Greencure has also ruined a bunch of crops. More than once.
One time we sprayed, it actually gave the whole crop botrytis The nugs were mold free, then after soaking them with green cure, within 2 days the we had ruined plants that molded out. Only the plants we did not spray were mold free.
Another time, we saw some mold and sprayed, Nada, nothing, just accelerated how fast the plant went to shit. As misleading as the name is, its NOT A CURE. It's a preventitive measure, not a cure.
If your gonna use greeencure, you must spray BEFORE mold takes hold, otherwise those sopping wet, soaked nugs will be molded out faster than you can say "OH SHIT!!!"
Just my 2 cents.
Good luck, and may the force be with you
TheBioMaster
Member
Excellent post JOJO420 and very well said.
I should also mention that Greencure is a very good product and will aid in the PREVENTION of bud rot as JoJo has mentioned already.
Depending on your degree of the problem, Greencure may even be all you ever need to do. But stats show that most cases will require you to address and attack the source of the problem in more severe cases........
We did about a 2 year independent study on the causes and conditions for bud rot and products that are advertised to fight it and prevent it from happening.....from all the products tested, the top two were Greencure and Actinovate
I should also mention that Greencure is a very good product and will aid in the PREVENTION of bud rot as JoJo has mentioned already.
Depending on your degree of the problem, Greencure may even be all you ever need to do. But stats show that most cases will require you to address and attack the source of the problem in more severe cases........
We did about a 2 year independent study on the causes and conditions for bud rot and products that are advertised to fight it and prevent it from happening.....from all the products tested, the top two were Greencure and Actinovate
FLINT!
FLINT!
bud rot is a fucking killer.
along with root rot it's been the bane of my existence as a grower.
i've tried a few things with varying success.
my favorite—and nobody ever talks about it— is bayer flint. it's the only systemic i know of that works against botrytis. it'll give you about 50 days of protection so use it before you flip. it's a chemical, so treat it with respect, but it's relatively safe. approved for agricultural use. not acutely toxic. no known carcinogenic or mutagenic properties.
the shit is pretty expensive, but it's a lot cheaper than a crop failure.
it's also indicated for powdery mildew.
and a couple dozen other things, most of which don't concern us:
actinovate is the very only thing i'd spray if mold is already present. it's a decent product that saved my ass. i have used it on the day of harvest on the handful of flowers i salvaged out of a room that was ravaged by mold. and the stuff actually worked.
green cure burns plants and actually accelerates mold growth if you've already got a problem.
serenade smells like dead things and doesn't work well.
for thems that's got bud rot already, nothing's gonna get it off those plants. you may be able to slow it long enough not to lose the whole damn thing though. first thing is to get the bad shit gone without spreading it. here's the protocol an og gave me that i've posted a couple times. it's a pain in the arse, but it works.
FLINT!
bud rot is a fucking killer.
along with root rot it's been the bane of my existence as a grower.
i've tried a few things with varying success.
my favorite—and nobody ever talks about it— is bayer flint. it's the only systemic i know of that works against botrytis. it'll give you about 50 days of protection so use it before you flip. it's a chemical, so treat it with respect, but it's relatively safe. approved for agricultural use. not acutely toxic. no known carcinogenic or mutagenic properties.
the shit is pretty expensive, but it's a lot cheaper than a crop failure.
it's also indicated for powdery mildew.
and a couple dozen other things, most of which don't concern us:
actinovate is the very only thing i'd spray if mold is already present. it's a decent product that saved my ass. i have used it on the day of harvest on the handful of flowers i salvaged out of a room that was ravaged by mold. and the stuff actually worked.
green cure burns plants and actually accelerates mold growth if you've already got a problem.
serenade smells like dead things and doesn't work well.
for thems that's got bud rot already, nothing's gonna get it off those plants. you may be able to slow it long enough not to lose the whole damn thing though. first thing is to get the bad shit gone without spreading it. here's the protocol an og gave me that i've posted a couple times. it's a pain in the arse, but it works.
get your thread out of the gutter stop insulting ea other only warning
Buds Bundy
Member
Potassium Silciate in your nutrient solution. Nova in Canada or Eagle 20 in the US.
NorCalGanjanetX
Member
dehuys and lots of air circulation always works to keep the budrot away for me.
