Posted this on another thread but was told I'd get a better response here. So, here goes.
I'm building a room capable of running six 1000w ballasts off of 240v outlets. My room just so happens to be in the basement right underneath my kitchen where there is a dedicated 240v on a 30A breaker going to my cooktop rated at 4kw. Everything is currently wired with 10awg in 1" rigid conduit.
Does anybody see any problem with replacing the 30A breaker with a 50A, Replacing the 10awg with 6awg, Splitting the 240v (one going up to the cooktop and one going down to the room) and then piggybacking six 240v outlets together? Thanks!
Wow! Thanks for the response. I guess my thinking was way off. I thought this project was going to be easy too. I'll probably have to run new conduit but thats not that much of a problem.
Just to be clear. Your saying that I can run 4 wires (two hots, a neutral and a ground) from a dedicated circuit to a sub panel in the grow room (about 50ft). Then break it down into 6 different 20A breakers, one for each 240v outlet? If so, what size circuit would you suggest feeding the sub panel off of?
View attachment 374657 Hey Rives , I see that the fuse holder for the range is cracked off at the corner right near the main lug . Could this be a culprit for arching ? I think so . Can you see in the pic , sorry it is upside down . If I rotate and swap the fuse holder I can get the cracked part away from any connections until I can source a new part .
I got a dilemma and need a sparky's advice.
I have a home built flip box for 5 ballast/10 lights. Working great thanks to Rives.
I am transitioning to a different location for the flip box and have cut the ends of the lighting cords to hard wire into flip box...custom length.
In order to extend the light cords I will either have to buy new 25+feet each cord set or splice on an extension wire.....
question if I want to splice on a longer wire (about 15-20') can I just put them all in a junction box or would they have to be separate junction box for each light?
I know SO wire but since the total length will be up to 30-35' would I want to use 14g or can I get away with 16g since the first half (connected to the light bulb) is 16g?
First, if the existing cooktop is currently fused at 30a, it is very unlikely that the cooktop wiring is rated to handle 50a. If there is a problem in the cooktop, it's going to get the full 50 amps.
Second, what do you mean by "splitting" the 240v? That would normally mean splitting it into the two 120v legs that make up the 240v circuit, and that won't work here. I think that that you are talking about paralleling the loads, where they would both be fed by the same circuit. If you do this, each of the (6) 240v receptacles (and the plugs, cordsets, etc) would all have to be rated for the full 50a. This would mean the equivalent of a range cord and receptacle for each ballast, which would be both expensive and unwieldy as hell.
The breaker needs to be sized to the lightest-rated component in the circuit - if you use parts (receptacle, plug, cord) that are rated for 15 or 20 amps, then the breaker needs to be sized accordingly. If you have room in the conduit, the safest and most flexible approach would be to set a small sub-panel to feed your ballasts and pull an appropriate feeder into the conduit. That way you can break your circuit protection down to the correct levels.
Thanks Rives.
Yes, sorry they are all 600watters and are fired from a combination of dual lumateks and single lumatek.
I plan on using a powerbox flip so I think I will buy the 14g cord set with the one end that plugs into my flip box and the other end connected to the other cord into a junction box. I need to do 10 of these.
any different technique, joining the two wires? Meaning is any difference than a normal junction box with joining two or three 12/2 wires?
I think I will use separate junction boxes just to be on the safe side.
First, if the existing cooktop is currently fused at 30a, it is very unlikely that the cooktop wiring is rated to handle 50a. If there is a problem in the cooktop, it's going to get the full 50 amps.
Second, what do you mean by "splitting" the 240v? That would normally mean splitting it into the two 120v legs that make up the 240v circuit, and that won't work here. I think that that you are talking about paralleling the loads, where they would both be fed by the same circuit. If you do this, each of the (6) 240v receptacles (and the plugs, cordsets, etc) would all have to be rated for the full 50a. This would mean the equivalent of a range cord and receptacle for each ballast, which would be both expensive and unwieldy as hell.
The breaker needs to be sized to the lightest-rated component in the circuit - if you use parts (receptacle, plug, cord) that are rated for 15 or 20 amps, then the breaker needs to be sized accordingly. If you have room in the conduit, the safest and most flexible approach would be to set a small sub-panel to feed your ballasts and pull an appropriate feeder into the conduit. That way you can break your circuit protection down to the correct levels.
Not all correct here...
Awesome! Thank you Rives.As far as different splice techniques, you basically have the options of using wire nuts and tape, crimp terminals and tape, or terminal blocks. Terminal blocks are most frequently used in industrial applications because they are usually a more secure connection and allow you to easily test the circuit. However, in this case, the voltage of the ignition pulse would lead me to choose one of the other methods because of the possibility of arcing to ground from a connection point that is designed for a maximum of 600 volts.
I know I said 14g but this is a good deal;
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/1...sRFi-RUAD9QaE3iWTSErcZI3_maRGKUm5kaAhcr8P8HAQ
16g do?
Ok Rives thanks.
Got another question; I have a Power box 12000 light controller. It is the hard wire type (50AMP). Would it be easier to hook up a stove plug to the end of the controller whip and a stove receptacle out of the 200amp panel, than junction box with split bolt connections?
I mean I can do either way but the connection way is such a lot of wrapping....Even though the one I got is the hard wire type can't I put a stove plug on the end of its whip.
http://www.powerboxinc.com/support/dpc15000_instructions.pdf