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Growroom Electricity and Wiring

madpenguin

Member
Got some more work done with the enclosure. Just waiting on the rest of the extension cords. The female receptacles need to go to the far outside because the relay sits smack dab in the middle. You can see my 2 relay mounting holes on the second picture.

I'll do up a one piece tutorial when I get all my shit together, just like I did with the Light controller.

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Those marks around the right hand side holes are just where the paint had been rubbed off cause my steel brush attachment for the dremel kept sliding on me. The receptacles should cover all of that once they are inserted. Ideally you want all the holes to look like the one below the already installed receptacle. Again... Doesn't matter much if it's all getting covered up.

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madpenguin

Member
Got the other extension cords today. This is the last I'll post of it until I throw the whole tutorial together. The second receptacle went in A LOT easier since I had experience with the first. I mostly pried it in with a small tipped flat head screw driver but I did have to use my creme brulee torch on it just a little. Looks much nicer than the first with regards to not deforming the tabs. And it locked right into place in that groove of the receptacle.

Pretty much all the deformation you see on the right hand one is from my screw driver and not the torch. By the time I'm done with the last one, I'll probably have mastered it. :)

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XsublimeX

Member
Hi all, this my first post and im goin rite into it here.
Im a residential wiring noob and i have no intention of killing myself or family....so im posting here.I have no doubt that im capable of doing all the work required to wire my growroom i just wanna get it rite the first time out. Im 100% sure everything im asking has been covered so if u just want to refer me to other posts/threads, thats fine.If theres any info u need to help me please ask!
Im looking at running 1-2 600w-1000w bulbs and some decently large exhaust fans. I have no equipment and no experience with these lights so any advice is fine. It looks like the distance between my breaker box and grow will be <100'.
From what ive learned reading ill need 20A 12/2 romex maybe 10/2, it seems like i can just run off my breaker box straight to the grow wire up a few recepticles and ill be fine.
Im still reading through this massive 48 page thread and im sure ill learn more but some of this stuff seems kinna over my head.

Thanks alot!
 
D

Deaner

Reconnect? Look at my sig. It's all here in this sticky. Your not reading it.... ;)
hey mp,

Sorry for not replying and thanking you earlier. I've been very busy. I could probably save on running to another 4x4" junction box if I could use a heavy duty power strip? On this I would run my pump, small circulation fans. Is that a safe alternative?

As for wiring it to the panel, I did read your guide which was very helpful-- thank you. That's why I had the question actually. I may have been confusion an additional step when wiring to a sub panel? I dunno.. anyway... So I hook the breaker up (after hook up the receptacles) in this order: ground , neutral, hot.. Then hook it into the breaker box? My breakers are 20 amp single pole. recepticals are built for 20 amp. 12 gauge is rated for 20 amp.. I think I'm good to go?

I can get pics easily so just ask.

Thanks again!
 

madpenguin

Member
hey mp,

Sorry for not replying and thanking you earlier. I've been very busy. I could probably save on running to another 4x4" junction box if I could use a heavy duty power strip? On this I would run my pump, small circulation fans. Is that a safe alternative?

As for wiring it to the panel, I did read your guide which was very helpful-- thank you. That's why I had the question actually. I may have been confusion an additional step when wiring to a sub panel? I dunno.. anyway... So I hook the breaker up (after hook up the receptacles) in this order: ground , neutral, hot.. Then hook it into the breaker box? My breakers are 20 amp single pole. recepticals are built for 20 amp. 12 gauge is rated for 20 amp.. I think I'm good to go?

I can get pics easily so just ask.

Thanks again!


Yea. That all sounds good. As far as the powerstrip goes, just use it for sump pumps and the like. Try to stay under 5A o so when you use those things. Maybe 7 tops.
 

madpenguin

Member
Im looking at running 1-2 600w-1000w bulbs

You don't mention voltage.

quote]
and some decently large exhaust fans.[/quote]

Those are 120v no doubt. Not sure what the question was but post back the amperage and voltage of everything you plan to run. Then you'll know what size circuit to run.
 
D

Deaner

Yea. That all sounds good. As far as the powerstrip goes, just use it for sump pumps and the like. Try to stay under 5A o so when you use those things. Maybe 7 tops.
Thanks for the input. In that case, I think my best option is to split a line into two receptacles. I read through your instructions, but still a little confused. The way I under stand it is that I run the neutral to on 4x4 and the hot to the other 4x4. The ground is strung along and connected to the ground screw with no break? Can you please clear this up for me? The Romex I'm using is actually 12-2. I hope this helps... Thank you soo much!
 

XsublimeX

Member
You don't mention voltage.

quote]
and some decently large exhaust fans.

Those are 120v no doubt. Not sure what the question was but post back the amperage and voltage of everything you plan to run. Then you'll know what size circuit to run.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the swift reply MP, this really didnt seem like the rite place to post all this but your profile said STOP post here so i am :p

I dont have my equipment picked out yet because im really trying to plan this out, an once of prevention u kno........
Im startin small, one light 600W or 1000W im not sure and my various fans, as long as all goes well im add lights quickly and fans too no doubt.All that said im wide open to suggestion here im totally flexible if anyone has ideas on equipment
I was first thinking 2 hard wired 20A GFCIs , now im wondering if a 30A 240V and a nice small light timer may be a better option, im not sure! Is it? The one im lookin at handles 7500 watts with 4 timeable recepticles, it seems like that would cover any lights i buy
Ive never used HID lamps before and safety is #1.
SO in short my question is whats my best option I cant just call up my regular johnny junctionbox say "wire up my grow man its cool"
cuz its not cool but neither is electricution or house fire

Thanks to all for all the info guys this thread delivers like no other
 
S

Sirus

I appoligize in advance for the noobness. So here is my question.

I am running my setup from 2 seperate 15 amp breakers. 15 amp

HD extension cords to 2 HD power strips. I have a C.A.P

Greenhouse Extreme which says max of 15 amps. I am using a

C.A.P. UPM for my 400W HID's. The UPM has its own plug with

another plug to connect to the controller. Should my UPM and my

controller both be pluged into the same powerstrip?
 

grownold

New member
Hope you are re energized madpenquin, don't want to step on anybody's thread on my first post, if so I apoligize in advance. Question, I am running a 8 ga, 30 amp line, off the main panel, appx 30' to my room, just so happens that I am running back across appx 15' of the service line bringing power to the box, I now have my 30 amp line strap tied to the incomming service line for appx the 15' but had one of those rare moments of clarity were I though this might not be a good idea, incomming line tethered to outgoing 30 anp line, what do you think , will this cause some weird magnetic/electricle implosion and a black hole thing or will it be OK, I can always separate them by a foot or so. Thanks
 

madpenguin

Member
Hope you are re energized madpenquin, don't want to step on anybody's thread on my first post, if so I apoligize in advance. Question, I am running a 8 ga, 30 amp line, off the main panel, appx 30' to my room, just so happens that I am running back across appx 15' of the service line bringing power to the box, I now have my 30 amp line strap tied to the incomming service line for appx the 15' but had one of those rare moments of clarity were I though this might not be a good idea, incomming line tethered to outgoing 30 anp line, what do you think , will this cause some weird magnetic/electricle implosion and a black hole thing or will it be OK, I can always separate them by a foot or so. Thanks


Nah.. You'll be alright. The only time you get black holes from doing that is when a stellar mass object passes at a near right angle to the plane of the solar system.

Other than that, Both phases of each cable cancel each other out.

Shit. What's that called? The left hand rule? If you take a cable and wrap your left hand around it and have your thumb pointing in the direction the power is flowing (away from the panel or power source), the electromagnetic field will curl in loops around the wire the same way you fingers are wrapped. So clockwise if you grab a cable and point the end at your face (power traveling toward you).

Anyway... This is why you don't get inductive heating between the black and the white wire. The power on the black wire is headed out and the power on the white wire is headed back. The electromagnetic fields are going opposite directions on each wire so they cancel each other out.

So, no.. You'll be alright. You can even run a coax RG-6 along side an incoming feeder cable. There is enough shielding on the RG-6 to not pick up fuzz from your service entrance cable when your watching cable.
 

madpenguin

Member
I appoligize in advance for the noobness. So here is my question.

I am running my setup from 2 seperate 15 amp breakers. 15 amp

HD extension cords to 2 HD power strips. I have a C.A.P

Greenhouse Extreme which says max of 15 amps. I am using a

C.A.P. UPM for my 400W HID's. The UPM has its own plug with

another plug to connect to the controller. Should my UPM and my

controller both be pluged into the same powerstrip?

As far as I'm aware the power cord on the UPM is just a trigger cable that just energizes the relay inside the UPM box. So... I don't know. I don't think the controller actually see's much current. It should be the UPM that draws all the juice.

Just try to even your load as much as you can between both 15A circuits. Can't say I'm a huge fan of the extension cords and powerstrips. Doesn't really matter that they are "Heavy Duty". Still can be prone to failure.

What else does the controller control? I don't know what all runs in your room and what is on which circuit so the only advice I can really give is to make sure you don't exceed 12A on either one of those circuits.
 

madpenguin

Member
Thanks for the swift reply MP, this really didnt seem like the rite place to post all this but your profile said STOP post here so i am :p

I dont have my equipment picked out yet because im really trying to plan this out, an once of prevention u kno........
Im startin small, one light 600W or 1000W im not sure and my various fans, as long as all goes well im add lights quickly and fans too no doubt.All that said im wide open to suggestion here im totally flexible if anyone has ideas on equipment
I was first thinking 2 hard wired 20A GFCIs , now im wondering if a 30A 240V and a nice small light timer may be a better option, im not sure! Is it? The one im lookin at handles 7500 watts with 4 timeable recepticles, it seems like that would cover any lights i buy
Ive never used HID lamps before and safety is #1.
SO in short my question is whats my best option I cant just call up my regular johnny junctionbox say "wire up my grow man its cool"
cuz its not cool but neither is electricution or house fire

Thanks to all for all the info guys this thread delivers like no other

You seem a little indecisive as far as what going to be going on in your grow room. That being the case, and your wallet permitting, I'd run a 8/3 romex, on a DP 40A breaker, to an Intermatic WH40 timer to the grow room. Mount it on the wall. Then you can run MC cable out of that to feed various receptacles that you may need.

Atleast you'll have the option of doing both 240v and 120v if you need it. Like the last post, I can't give much advice because I don't really know a whole lot.

If you go the WH40 route, I'd run the ballasts at 240. There is a couple posts here on this sticky. Quite a few back and forth replies with someone who was using a WH40 or similar Intermatic timer. He wanted 2 timed receptacles and 2 always hot receptacles. Go back and try to find that. It wound up being an indepth tutorial on how to run a grow room off a WH40.

Towards the end, dude nailed the concept and I applauded his diligence and fortitude.... ;)
 

madpenguin

Member
Thanks for the input. In that case, I think my best option is to split a line into two receptacles. I read through your instructions, but still a little confused. The way I under stand it is that I run the neutral to on 4x4 and the hot to the other 4x4. The ground is strung along and connected to the ground screw with no break? Can you please clear this up for me? The Romex I'm using is actually 12-2. I hope this helps... Thank you soo much!


I'm confused. Sorry. What is it that your trying to do? All conductors of the same circuit need to be kept together. I think I'm just misunderstanding you. If you could clarify a little, that would be great.

You want to use 2 different 12/2 runs? One each to a powerstrip? Each powerstrip to use 7 amps or so worth of power? And your asking how to split the line into 2 different ones in a 4x4 metal junction box? So your starting out with one 20A circuit but you want to split it into 2 different runs? A powerstrip at the end of each run?

I think we are both a little confused... Let me know if I'm way off base or not.
 

grownold

New member
Nah.. You'll be alright. The only time you get black holes from doing that is when a stellar mass object passes at a near right angle to the plane of the solar system.

Other than that, Both phases of each cable cancel each other out.

Shit. What's that called? The left hand rule? If you take a cable and wrap your left hand around it and have your thumb pointing in the direction the power is flowing (away from the panel or power source), the electromagnetic field will curl in loops around the wire the same way you fingers are wrapped. So clockwise if you grab a cable and point the end at your face (power traveling toward you).

Anyway... This is why you don't get inductive heating between the black and the white wire. The power on the black wire is headed out and the power on the white wire is headed back. The electromagnetic fields are going opposite directions on each wire so they cancel each other out.

So, no.. You'll be alright. You can even run a coax RG-6 along side an incoming feeder cable. There is enough shielding on the RG-6 to not pick up fuzz from your service entrance cable when your watching cable.
Thank you, don't want my small business to implode before I get it off da ground. lol
 

madpenguin

Member
O.K... I lied. More flip/flop pics.

Got all 4 female sunlight receptacles installed. Again.... The dog ears may come off. Dunno yet.
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Installed a 15A 125v cheapo 5-15R as a "piggy back" receptacle in case you want to make another flip/flop box. You'd just plug the trigger cable of the second flip box into this receptacle. Not an overly novel concept on Powerbox's part. It's a logical progression when you sit down and think of how a flip/flop should be made.
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Inside shot of the receptacles for the reflectors.
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Inside shot of the 5-15R "piggy back" receptacle. Once you crimp some male "disconnect" terminals to some wire, they will mate with the female "disconnect" terminals of the receptacle. That receptacle used was linked to a page or 2 ago. It has a snap on back once you attach the wires. The other end of the wires would use a spade terminal and you'd terminate them to the center contacts of the relay coil. Your incomming trigger cable would also terminate to the center contacts of the relay coil.
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It's taking shape. Just need to mount the relay, 2 male sunlight cords that stick out a couple feet to mate with your 2 ballasts along with the trigger cable that plugs into a timer should be about it.

I'm considering the use of a make before break timer. I'll have to see how a hot flip will work with digi's... If I get any problems then I'll probably employ one. They are pretty small and would probably still fit on the inside back of the box.

We'll see.
 
D

Deaner

I'm confused. Sorry. What is it that your trying to do? All conductors of the same circuit need to be kept together. I think I'm just misunderstanding you. If you could clarify a little, that would be great.

You want to use 2 different 12/2 runs? One each to a powerstrip? Each powerstrip to use 7 amps or so worth of power? And your asking how to split the line into 2 different ones in a 4x4 metal junction box? So your starting out with one 20A circuit but you want to split it into 2 different runs? A powerstrip at the end of each run?

I think we are both a little confused... Let me know if I'm way off base or not.
I want to do 2 12-2 runs. One that goes to a 4x4 box with 2 receptacles, and the other split into 2 4x4 boxes with the same 2 type of receptacles. No powerstrips.. The run that is split into two 4x4 will have lighter power stuff on it. I just need to know how to split a run into two different 4x4 boxes. It's 12-2 romex...

Thank you.
 

madpenguin

Member
Ok... I think I understand. You have 2 separate 20A runs coming out of your panel. Both of them feed into a 4x4 box. Only one 20A circuit will feed those 2 receptacles.

The other 20A run that entered that same 4x4, you want to exit that 4x4 and continue on to feed 2 other 4x4 receptacles?

You'll have a total of 3 - 4x4 junction boxes (6 duplex receptacles) and 2 separate branch circuits. 2 of the duplex receptacles in the first box are fed by one circuit and the other 2 boxes and their 4 duplex receptacles are fed by another circuit?
 
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