Growroom Electricity and Wiring

[Unagi]

Surprised by lampholder.

Surprised by lampholder.

Heyo! I bought a couple adjust a wings medium avenger, when i was about to wire up the lamp holder i opened it up as usual. Im expecting to just wire the brown&blue from this cable Into the lampholder and thats it.
With these newer models there are already a black and white wired into to lampholder like this picture shows

Now what confuses me are those little thingies. What are they for? I have never seen them before.

So whats the deal here? I usually just wire the brown and blue straight intothe lampholder

Im sorry if this has been asked before, but my search function isnt working on the phone for some weird reason.

 

[rives]

The pigtails terminated on the lampholder have high-temperature insulation on them. The intense heat from HID lamps can break down the insulation on standard wiring, and the pigtails allow the transition between wiring types to be made in a cooler environment.

Your little thingies are for making the connection with - they are similar to wire nuts, but are meant to be crimped on rather than screwing onto the wires. If you use them, make sure that the insulating jacket isn't damaged in the crimping process, a standard stake-style crimper will probably ruin them.

 

[Unagi]

Just to make sure i got this right. I twist together black & brown then i twist together blue & white. Then i shove them into the thingies (wire connectors, is that the correct term?)

And its all good from here?

 

[rives]

The thingies are actually called Buchanan splice caps, but no, you don't just shove the wire in. After the wires are inserted into the cap, the cap has to be crimped. Crimping is the controlled crushing of the cap and requires a special tool to be done correctly. The special tool is relatively expensive (link below). Unless you like collecting odd tools, you can use wire nuts in place of the splice caps and have the benefit of them being removable if need be.

https://www.amazon.com/Ideal-145669...d=1476767435&sr=8-1&keywords=buchanan+crimper

 

[TreeWolf]

Has anyone checked out the 2017 NEC yet? They want $95 for a PDF even, argh

 

[rives]

Has anyone checked out the 2017 NEC yet? They want $95 for a PDF even, argh

A couple of days ago I was looking at updating my version and couldn't believe what they asking for the new one....

 

[Vanilla Phoenix]

Was wondering if it's ok to use Romex NM-B wire to feed a sub panel from the main panel?

 

[rives]

Was wondering if it's ok to use Romex NM-B wire to feed a sub panel from the main panel?

Yes, it will work fine.

 

[Jhhnn]

The thingies are actually called Buchanan splice caps, but no, you don't just shove the wire in. After the wires are inserted into the cap, the cap has to be crimped. Crimping is the controlled crushing of the cap and requires a special tool to be done correctly. The special tool is relatively expensive (link below). Unless you like collecting odd tools, you can use wire nuts in place of the splice caps and have the benefit of them being removable if need be.

https://www.amazon.com/Ideal-145669...d=1476767435&sr=8-1&keywords=buchanan+crimper

That's one way to do it. This crimper creates the same kind of crimp as a lot of factory sub assembly stuff I worked with in the bus & rail biz-

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-prof...ellerId=Sears&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1#

It's also what our terminal vendor recommended for field work on that kind of connector & color coded automotive type terminals.

You're right that wire nuts are the answer for the kind of stuff we're talking about here.

 

[rives]

That's one way to do it. This crimper creates the same kind of crimp as a lot of factory sub assembly stuff I worked with in the bus & rail biz-

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-prof...ellerId=Sears&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1#

It's also what our terminal vendor recommended for field work on that kind of connector & color coded automotive type terminals.

You're right that wire nuts are the answer for the kind of stuff we're talking about here.

They are completely different style of crimps, Jhhnn. A Buchanan crimper has 4 moveable anvils that are geared together so that they compress equally from all 4 sides, keeping the conductors and crimp centered and doesn't distort the sleeve where it retains the insulating cover. A conventional crimper drives a single stake into the back of the terminal sleeve or the style for insulated terminals work from two sides, and both will distort the sleeve. The Buchanan crimp sleeves are also different diameters than standard sta-kon terminals, so while a conventional crimper would undoubtedly work, it would make for a less than ideal installation.

 

[HeresTheDank]

Hello, i needed some advice/input on where i stand. Got a good buddy whos an electrician but trying to gather info before i have him make a long trek to possibly do aome work.

Got an old ass subpanel in garage put in by im guessing previous owner 20 years ago. It has 20 amp, 15 amp and dual pole breaker that are 15 amps but only fed 1 wire. The dual pole one is powering 2 floro lights in garage and 2 outlets used for whatever. The 20 amp breaker runs to an outlets in back of garage. Im using this outlets now to run a 1k digital ballast, small inline fan and small fan. So i know i cant use this circuit for my other 1k light that i need soon. Also goin to be using a window ac once that goes So guessing thatll be 10-15 amps.

Appears The middle 15amp breaker is unused. But whatever im curious about is The dual pole breaker. Its running to 110v. Can it be modified to be 240v? Figuring out The best route to take, as The main panel is probably 100-120 feet away on side of house So me thinks itd be pricey to add a circuit to that n have it ran to garage. There is a 240v circuit ran to jacuzzi pump/equipment that not used as theres no longer a jacuzzi, and Its about halfway between sub panel and main. Not sure if that an option to get to that circuit and extend it into garage.

Any help input advice is much appreciated So hve more details to give the electrician, thanks in advance. Also, do plan on him cleaning up The sub panel as u see in pic

 

[brown_thumb]

I'm installing four 220v/315w CMH lamps in my lean-to greenhouse built against the side of my trailer. I have an unused 70a/220v circuit that once powered my central electric furnace. I want to tie into that circuit to power the lights... and may add more lights later. I'll install all waterproof hardware. I'll replace the 220v/70a circuit breaker with a 220v/60a GFCI breaker.

TWO QUESTIONS:
Q1. The total run from the breaker box to the outlets will be 50-60 feet total. I don't want to waste my money but I'd rather overkill somewhat than be near the edge of just enough. According to online calculators, 4 awg copper is perfectly safe (results in a 2v drop at 60') and 2 awg is overkill, if I want to eventually use all 60 amps at 60 feet. DOES THAT SOUND RIGHT?

Q2. Assuming the wire running from the furnace to the breaker box is of sufficient size; IS IT JUST AS GOOD TO TIE OFF OF THE POWER WHERE THE FURNACE ONCE WAS... OR SHOULD I RUN AN UNCUT LINE ALL THE WAY FROM THE BOX?

 

[rives]

Hello, i needed some advice/input on where i stand. Got a good buddy whos an electrician but trying to gather info before i have him make a long trek to possibly do aome work.

Got an old ass subpanel in garage put in by im guessing previous owner 20 years ago. It has 20 amp, 15 amp and dual pole breaker that are 15 amps but only fed 1 wire. The dual pole one is powering 2 floro lights in garage and 2 outlets used for whatever. The 20 amp breaker runs to an outlets in back of garage. Im using this outlets now to run a 1k digital ballast, small inline fan and small fan. So i know i cant use this circuit for my other 1k light that i need soon. Also goin to be using a window ac once that goes So guessing thatll be 10-15 amps.

Appears The middle 15amp breaker is unused. But whatever im curious about is The dual pole breaker. Its running to 110v. Can it be modified to be 240v? Figuring out The best route to take, as The main panel is probably 100-120 feet away on side of house So me thinks itd be pricey to add a circuit to that n have it ran to garage. There is a 240v circuit ran to jacuzzi pump/equipment that not used as theres no longer a jacuzzi, and Its about halfway between sub panel and main. Not sure if that an option to get to that circuit and extend it into garage.

Any help input advice is much appreciated So hve more details to give the electrician, thanks in advance. Also, do plan on him cleaning up The sub panel as u see in picView Image

View Image

The first thing that I would do is check out the amperage of the breaker feeding the sub and the size of the feed wires. Your distance could easily create an excessive voltage drop if the circuit is pushed hard and the wire is marginally sized.

The breaker that you are calling a double-pole (240v) looks to me like it is actually a single pole, double breaker (120v). There are two handles, and they are not tied together, so the two sides of the breaker will operate independently. That is illegal for a double-pole breaker. You would need to look at the back of it to see if there are buss stabs for each side of the breaker to see if the handles could be tied together, and if the panel busses are configured so that the two sides could be fed independently. Some panels will not support 240v "wafer" (compact) breakers. Breakers are cheap, I'd buy a new one with a common trip if the panel is suitable, and push come to shove, subpanels are pretty inexpensive too.

 

[rives]

I'm installing four 220v/315w CMH lamps in my lean-to greenhouse built against the side of my trailer. I have an unused 70a/220v circuit that once powered my central electric furnace. I want to tie into that circuit to power the lights... and may add more lights later. I'll install all waterproof hardware. I'll replace the 220v/70a circuit breaker with a 220v/60a GFCI breaker.

TWO QUESTIONS:
Q1. The total run from the breaker box to the outlets will be 50-60 feet total. I don't want to waste my money but I'd rather overkill somewhat than be near the edge of just enough. According to online calculators, 4 awg copper is perfectly safe (results in a 2v drop at 60') and 2 awg is overkill, if I want to eventually use all 60 amps at 60 feet. DOES THAT SOUND RIGHT?

Q2. Assuming the wire running from the furnace to the breaker box is of sufficient size; IS IT JUST AS GOOD TO TIE OFF OF THE POWER WHERE THE FURNACE ONCE WAS... OR SHOULD I RUN AN UNCUT LINE ALL THE WAY FROM THE BOX?

For industrial purposes, staying at 3% or less voltage drop is recommended. For residential, 5% is the usual figure. HID lighting will drop out on voltage sags, so I would stick with the lower number. #6 copper wire at 240v and 60a gives a 3.7v drop, or 1.53% and would work fine. #4 would be even better.

Given the choice, my preference would always be for unspliced conductors. However, if the splice is done properly, in an enclosure and a well-protected area that isn't subject to moisture, mechanical damage, or whatever else, splicing should work fine.

 

[brown_thumb]

For industrial purposes, staying at 3% or less voltage drop is recommended. For residential, 5% is the usual figure. HID lighting will drop out on voltage sags, so I would stick with the lower number. #6 copper wire at 240v and 60a gives a 3.7v drop, or 1.53% and would work fine. #4 would be even better.

Given the choice, my preference would always be for unspliced conductors. However, if the splice is done properly, in an enclosure and a well-protected area that isn't subject to moisture, mechanical damage, or whatever else, splicing should work fine.

That's what I was thinking... 4 awg copper unspliced. Thanks for the confirmation!! It's more than I'll ever need and will never pose an overload threat. I might still opt for 3 or 2 awg but 4 awg is much more affordable!!

 

[HeresTheDank]

The first thing that I would do is check out the amperage of the breaker feeding the sub and the size of the feed wires. Your distance could easily create an excessive voltage drop if the circuit is pushed hard and the wire is marginally sized.

The breaker that you are calling a double-pole (240v) looks to me like it is actually a single pole, double breaker (120v). There are two handles, and they are not tied together, so the two sides of the breaker will operate independently. That is illegal for a double-pole breaker. You would need to look at the back of it to see if there are buss stabs for each side of the breaker to see if the handles could be tied together, and if the panel busses are configured so that the two sides could be fed independently. Some panels will not support 240v "wafer" (compact) breakers. Breakers are cheap, I'd buy a new one with a common trip if the panel is suitable, and push come to shove, subpanels are pretty inexpensive too.

Tyvm, im going to flip breakers tomorrow and figure out which one it is. Main panel was updated recently with solar so going off their labeling but garage isnt listed. Curious as to what old 220 is, also the pool pumpd arent ysed so shall see. Also ill have to check on the
Single pole double breaker. Thank you mucho for cleari g that up.

Old 220 is 50 amps, spare is 40

 

[HeresTheDank]

Well purchased a circuit breaker tracer and figured some stuff out, yet confused as to why. The outlet on the garage work bench and overhead are on the master bath plug breaker...which is located at the other end of the house near the main panel (the outlet in master bath is on it too). The 4 outlet receptacle in the garage running off the single pole double breaker in sub panel is the "old 220" breakers in main panel. The other garage outlet on the 20amp sub panel is also running from the old 220 breaker. But theres no 220 receptacle in the garage

 

[rives]

Well purchased a circuit breaker tracer and figured some stuff out, yet confused as to why. The outlet on the garage work bench and overhead are on the master bath plug breaker...which is located at the other end of the house near the main panel (the outlet in master bath is on it too). The 4 outlet receptacle in the garage running off the single pole double breaker in sub panel is the "old 220" breakers in main panel. The other garage outlet on the 20amp sub panel is also running from the old 220 breaker. But theres no 220 receptacle in the garage

Sounds like there has been some remodeling and the panel labeling wasn't updated. The circuit coming from the bath may be a GFCI. Plug circuits in bathrooms and garages are both required to have GFCI protection now, and are frequently combined if possible because of the cost of the breaker or GFCI plugs. The other circuits may pre-date that, or have been done without concern for the code requirements.

 

[HeresTheDank]

Ahh that makes sense thanks rives, was really trying to learn a bit about this stuff lol. Is there a way to tell if anything in sub pabel ca be upgraded to 220? The black wires that run from The main panel into garage are 6 gauge

 

[rives]

#6 wire is rated for 55 amps and up, depending on the insulation (it should have something printed on the wire near the AWG #, like TW, THWN, etc). If the panel is fed with 240v (2 hot wires, a neutral, and a ground), then it should be capable of sourcing 240v, but depending on the panel, may only accept full-size double-pole breakers. As I mentioned above, subs are cheap, so if it is easily accessible to change out don't feel like you are locked in to what you have.