G
Guest
LUI Day 10
LUI Day 10
Our lil LUI's aren't so tiny anymore. here's a day 10 shot.
LUI Day 10
Our lil LUI's aren't so tiny anymore. here's a day 10 shot.
-
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G
Guest
LUI Day 11
LUI Day 11
The lil LUI's continue to show great development. individual plants were
rotated in their planting flats to make sure everyone grows straight and
any outer edge seedlings do not lean in towards the light.today the
seedlings got a soil drench with a light fert solution. we've recently
decided to try Age Old Organic fertilizers in our garden so that's what
we'll use for this feeding. but any complete organic fert will do here.
we'll use the ferts at about 1/2 strength again to make sure that we
don't over feed the lil plants. we'd normally use 1 to 2 tablespoons of
the Age Old Organic Grow ferts per gallon so we'll cut the mix on half.
our adjusted rate is 1 tablespoon for every 2 gallons of water. the Age
Old ferts are short on Magnesium so we also added 1/2 teaspoon of epsom
salts to the same 2 gallons of water for this feeding. each plant was
gently soaked until it showed a dribble of runoff.
LUI Day 11
The lil LUI's continue to show great development. individual plants were
rotated in their planting flats to make sure everyone grows straight and
any outer edge seedlings do not lean in towards the light.today the
seedlings got a soil drench with a light fert solution. we've recently
decided to try Age Old Organic fertilizers in our garden so that's what
we'll use for this feeding. but any complete organic fert will do here.
we'll use the ferts at about 1/2 strength again to make sure that we
don't over feed the lil plants. we'd normally use 1 to 2 tablespoons of
the Age Old Organic Grow ferts per gallon so we'll cut the mix on half.
our adjusted rate is 1 tablespoon for every 2 gallons of water. the Age
Old ferts are short on Magnesium so we also added 1/2 teaspoon of epsom
salts to the same 2 gallons of water for this feeding. each plant was
gently soaked until it showed a dribble of runoff.
G
Guest
LUI Day 12
LUI Day 12
as for printing our exact fertilizer routine. that's somewhat hard to do
since it varies some from grow to grow and strain to strain. we watch and
observe our plants closely and feed accordingly. also. we've been
experimenting with Age Old Organics and are still "dialing in" our use.
we'll also use Earth Juice products and guano teas too before it's over.
folks will see everything we feed these girls (for better or worse ) and
get an idea of our feeding patterns as we go. the idea behind the thread
isn't to get folks to copy our technique step by step. the idea is to get
folks to understand the reason and thinking behind our plant care. then
folks can re-create as much or little of our growing style as they wish.
the concept behind the the very first light feeding was a very weak
nutrient mix with a lil extra phosphorous to encourage strong root
development. it wouldn't matter if you used a fish fert / kelp mix like
we did here at "the nest" or if you used a different fert. any weak
"bloom" style fert with some N and K and a higher concentration of P
would work. the second light feeding was a more balanced fertilizer. it's
heavier on the N than the P or K and is 2-1-1 ratio of nutes (the Age Old
Grow is actually something like 12-6-6). so instead of using Age Old
Organics like the 3LB did here at the "bird's nest". any complete organic
grow formula with that kind of balance should work. our next feeding will
be high in nitrogen to really spur some strong vegetative growth. we may
use a mexican bat guano tea or perhaps a 5-1-1 fish fert. either one
would work. it's far more important to understand why we are feeding the
plants what we are than to try and use the same exact fertilizers as the
3LB. we'll probably throw everything but the kitchen sink at these babes
before it's over. every fert in our array can be easily replaced with an
alternative (with the exception of kelp and alfalfa which contain plant
hormones - and SuperThrive has the hormone in the alfalfa). that's one of
the beauties about organic gardening. there's a lot of ways to get great
results.we're interested in showing the variety of choices available to
the organic gardener and what can be done.
LUI Day 12
as for printing our exact fertilizer routine. that's somewhat hard to do
since it varies some from grow to grow and strain to strain. we watch and
observe our plants closely and feed accordingly. also. we've been
experimenting with Age Old Organics and are still "dialing in" our use.
we'll also use Earth Juice products and guano teas too before it's over.
folks will see everything we feed these girls (for better or worse ) and
get an idea of our feeding patterns as we go. the idea behind the thread
isn't to get folks to copy our technique step by step. the idea is to get
folks to understand the reason and thinking behind our plant care. then
folks can re-create as much or little of our growing style as they wish.
the concept behind the the very first light feeding was a very weak
nutrient mix with a lil extra phosphorous to encourage strong root
development. it wouldn't matter if you used a fish fert / kelp mix like
we did here at "the nest" or if you used a different fert. any weak
"bloom" style fert with some N and K and a higher concentration of P
would work. the second light feeding was a more balanced fertilizer. it's
heavier on the N than the P or K and is 2-1-1 ratio of nutes (the Age Old
Grow is actually something like 12-6-6). so instead of using Age Old
Organics like the 3LB did here at the "bird's nest". any complete organic
grow formula with that kind of balance should work. our next feeding will
be high in nitrogen to really spur some strong vegetative growth. we may
use a mexican bat guano tea or perhaps a 5-1-1 fish fert. either one
would work. it's far more important to understand why we are feeding the
plants what we are than to try and use the same exact fertilizers as the
3LB. we'll probably throw everything but the kitchen sink at these babes
before it's over. every fert in our array can be easily replaced with an
alternative (with the exception of kelp and alfalfa which contain plant
hormones - and SuperThrive has the hormone in the alfalfa). that's one of
the beauties about organic gardening. there's a lot of ways to get great
results.we're interested in showing the variety of choices available to
the organic gardener and what can be done.
G
Guest
I hope you guys enjoy this, uploading this thread is a lot of work
G
Guest
Day 13
Day 13
We've got 13 LUI's on their 13th day. our lil plants required no actual
care for day 13. but we did mix the guano tea today as advertised. in
essence we are already preparing the first watering of 2004 for these
babes. we mix our teas in 5 gallon plastic gasoline containers. they are
easy and convenient to use as well as durable and affordable. and they are
a great way to "brew up" a good bat or seabird guano tea .we fill the gas
can with 4 gallons of water and then add 3 tablespoons of Mexican Bat Guano
and 3 teaspoons of powdered Maxicrop kelp concentrate. the mexi bat poop is
so strong it has a urea smell to it like. inhaling the dust from powdered
guanos is not very healthful so it's best to wear a mask while preparing the
dry portions of this tea. after dumping the guano and kelp into the gas can
it's shaken vigorously. swished back and forth to mix the ingredients and to
help aerate the liquid. teas brew up best if actually aerated by a cheap
aquarium pump bubbling through the water to make sure the tea stays well
oxygenated. a good thorough swishing every couple of hours can be
substituted for the aqua pump but don't forget! we'll let the tea "brew"
like that for at least 48 hours before use. and since this is a concentrated
tea we will also dilute it before watering our plants. Here's a pic another
lucky #13 shot. this pic will be the same seedling from the last picture.
it's a different angle and separated from it's brother's and sisters to give
a better perspective on this individual plant's growth
Day 13
We've got 13 LUI's on their 13th day. our lil plants required no actual
care for day 13. but we did mix the guano tea today as advertised. in
essence we are already preparing the first watering of 2004 for these
babes. we mix our teas in 5 gallon plastic gasoline containers. they are
easy and convenient to use as well as durable and affordable. and they are
a great way to "brew up" a good bat or seabird guano tea .we fill the gas
can with 4 gallons of water and then add 3 tablespoons of Mexican Bat Guano
and 3 teaspoons of powdered Maxicrop kelp concentrate. the mexi bat poop is
so strong it has a urea smell to it like. inhaling the dust from powdered
guanos is not very healthful so it's best to wear a mask while preparing the
dry portions of this tea. after dumping the guano and kelp into the gas can
it's shaken vigorously. swished back and forth to mix the ingredients and to
help aerate the liquid. teas brew up best if actually aerated by a cheap
aquarium pump bubbling through the water to make sure the tea stays well
oxygenated. a good thorough swishing every couple of hours can be
substituted for the aqua pump but don't forget! we'll let the tea "brew"
like that for at least 48 hours before use. and since this is a concentrated
tea we will also dilute it before watering our plants. Here's a pic another
lucky #13 shot. this pic will be the same seedling from the last picture.
it's a different angle and separated from it's brother's and sisters to give
a better perspective on this individual plant's growth
G
Guest
Day 14
Day 14
here's a shot of the whole bunch of our lil LUI's on their 14th day. Louie
LUI. oh baby. say we gotta grow now. yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah. maybe
our secret is that we sing to our plants.
I have a question though, how do you judge when to water with these big
containers? do you lift the corner, stick your finger in the soil or what?
I am havin a harder time judging when to water with such big containers.
we literally just feel the soil w/ our fingers. and over time we've just
gotten into patterns of simply "knowing" when they need water through
observation and experience. there are thin lil moisture probes that can
take readings w/o distrubing roots and we actually have one but haven't
used it in quite some time. when we water a 2' x 3' container it's usually
with a gallon of water for the entire container. on an extremely rare
occasion maybe as much as a gallon and a half if the atmosphere is dry and
the girls seem especially thirsty. with a moderate watering like that we are
usually watering our blooming girls every other day. but your mileage may
vary depending on strain and your relative humidity and temps.
Although these big containers can be quite heavy when filled with dirt,
plants, etc, IF you can lift even part of em and judge how they feel....the
lighter they feel the dryer they are, that's probably the most fool proof
way of judging moisture content. That being said, (And I'm going to disagree
with tlb about using these meters & "disturbing" roots....I'm thinking here
about what you do when you areate your lawn with one of those pluggers. Last
time I checked my lawn LIKED that. Though not as radical, your pot plant
will too!) there's NOTHING wrong with sticking that probe of an inexpensive
moisture meter into the soil for a reading. In fact, I believe that this
"areation" procedure is beneficial to overall plant health, the reason being
precisely that it does areate the media. I use my meter mostly for this
areation procedure in my larger containers, although I still use the lift
method mostly judging when to water/feed. And I poke the shit out of em!!.
All the way across the top of the dirt. Not all the time but a couple of
times during the grow, areating the soil around your plants (especially if
they have been in the container awhile and are rootbound...think about it)
will also assist in even watering and feeding by eliminating dry spots in
the soil. So poke away. Even if you don't use it like I do, using it when
you have a question about your containers moisture content will only ease
your mind AND help your plants imho. Good luck!! GD (Ganjaden)
I am using 10 gallon containers, one with 2 plants and one with 3 plants.
I've been giving them a lot more water then the birds seem to at almost 2
gallons each. I have not really observed any signs of overwatering except
slight drooping right after the watering which goes away within an hour or
2 I'd say and they perk right up. Do you think this is an acceptable method
of watering as well? What do you think the advantages are to using a much
smaller amount of water more frequently?
Day 14
here's a shot of the whole bunch of our lil LUI's on their 14th day. Louie
LUI. oh baby. say we gotta grow now. yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah. maybe
our secret is that we sing to our plants.
I have a question though, how do you judge when to water with these big
containers? do you lift the corner, stick your finger in the soil or what?
I am havin a harder time judging when to water with such big containers.
we literally just feel the soil w/ our fingers. and over time we've just
gotten into patterns of simply "knowing" when they need water through
observation and experience. there are thin lil moisture probes that can
take readings w/o distrubing roots and we actually have one but haven't
used it in quite some time. when we water a 2' x 3' container it's usually
with a gallon of water for the entire container. on an extremely rare
occasion maybe as much as a gallon and a half if the atmosphere is dry and
the girls seem especially thirsty. with a moderate watering like that we are
usually watering our blooming girls every other day. but your mileage may
vary depending on strain and your relative humidity and temps.
Although these big containers can be quite heavy when filled with dirt,
plants, etc, IF you can lift even part of em and judge how they feel....the
lighter they feel the dryer they are, that's probably the most fool proof
way of judging moisture content. That being said, (And I'm going to disagree
with tlb about using these meters & "disturbing" roots....I'm thinking here
about what you do when you areate your lawn with one of those pluggers. Last
time I checked my lawn LIKED that. Though not as radical, your pot plant
will too!) there's NOTHING wrong with sticking that probe of an inexpensive
moisture meter into the soil for a reading. In fact, I believe that this
"areation" procedure is beneficial to overall plant health, the reason being
precisely that it does areate the media. I use my meter mostly for this
areation procedure in my larger containers, although I still use the lift
method mostly judging when to water/feed. And I poke the shit out of em!!.
All the way across the top of the dirt. Not all the time but a couple of
times during the grow, areating the soil around your plants (especially if
they have been in the container awhile and are rootbound...think about it)
will also assist in even watering and feeding by eliminating dry spots in
the soil. So poke away. Even if you don't use it like I do, using it when
you have a question about your containers moisture content will only ease
your mind AND help your plants imho. Good luck!! GD (Ganjaden)
I am using 10 gallon containers, one with 2 plants and one with 3 plants.
I've been giving them a lot more water then the birds seem to at almost 2
gallons each. I have not really observed any signs of overwatering except
slight drooping right after the watering which goes away within an hour or
2 I'd say and they perk right up. Do you think this is an acceptable method
of watering as well? What do you think the advantages are to using a much
smaller amount of water more frequently?
G
Guest
Day 15
Day 15
the advantage of more frequent light waterings is better soil oxygen levels
and therefore better plant vigor and health. we believe in geting the soil
good and damp throughout but never sopping wet. plant roots like a mix of
water, nutrients and oxygen and light waterings provide this. as for the
moisture probe. we think they are great tools but after a couple decades of
gardening such things tend to languish on our shelves . we don't use our pH
meter much either. when we were starting growing such tools were very useful.
the best way to describe the evolution is to say that over time we learned to
watch our plants and learn what they were telling us. the tools (like a
moisture probe) served to teach us what we were seeing in the plants and now
we understand what the plants are telling us without the meters. we did water
w/ our MexiBat Guano tea on day 15. it was diluted 1/4th parts tea to 3/4th
parts plain water and each of the plants was thoroughly soaked. they were not
left in "standing water" but each pot was watered until they began to dribble
some run-off. here's a day 15 shot of a LUI.
Day 15
the advantage of more frequent light waterings is better soil oxygen levels
and therefore better plant vigor and health. we believe in geting the soil
good and damp throughout but never sopping wet. plant roots like a mix of
water, nutrients and oxygen and light waterings provide this. as for the
moisture probe. we think they are great tools but after a couple decades of
gardening such things tend to languish on our shelves . we don't use our pH
meter much either. when we were starting growing such tools were very useful.
the best way to describe the evolution is to say that over time we learned to
watch our plants and learn what they were telling us. the tools (like a
moisture probe) served to teach us what we were seeing in the plants and now
we understand what the plants are telling us without the meters. we did water
w/ our MexiBat Guano tea on day 15. it was diluted 1/4th parts tea to 3/4th
parts plain water and each of the plants was thoroughly soaked. they were not
left in "standing water" but each pot was watered until they began to dribble
some run-off. here's a day 15 shot of a LUI.
G
Guest
Day 16
Day 16
the intermediate step is usually gallon or 5 quart "ice cream" buckets. from
there we'd normally step up to our 2'x 3' containers but in cases where the
babes are not sexed yet we'll use 3 gallon or 5 gallon containers as the
final destination. here's today's pic
the guano tea got used over several days. teas will certainly be good for at
least a week as long as they are kept aerated. but the LUI's aren't our only
vegging plants so they didn't get an "exclusive" on the tea as it was also
shared with others. we actually had some very thirsty vegging plants. you
might say we had a "tea party" over the new year. so we'll be looking to mix
up a different fert mix the next time our lil LUI's need a feeding. a normal
usage for the tea would be to use about 1/2 of concentrated tea as described
(mixing it directly into water). when the can is about 1/2 empty we'll then
"top off" the can with another couple gallons of straight H2O and use that
undiluted until it's gone. it makes a strong tea that will give a great boost
to vegetative growth.the LUI's are showing some great growth and yes they
will be ready for transplanting soon. we usually top clone our girls before
transplanting. but these are growing so well with such tight internodes that
we may end up transplanting first and then taking our top clones afterwards.
we'll watch them over the next few days and decide based on the plant's
needs. right now the plan would be a day 21 transplant. thanks again for all
the nice comments. we're proud of the progress these plants have been making
so far. and we're very proud that this grow and thread are helping to teach
and inspire others. it's that thought. of helping other's grow their own
medicine. that makes the actual time and effort of documenting and
explaining everything worthwhile.
Day 16
the intermediate step is usually gallon or 5 quart "ice cream" buckets. from
there we'd normally step up to our 2'x 3' containers but in cases where the
babes are not sexed yet we'll use 3 gallon or 5 gallon containers as the
final destination. here's today's pic
the guano tea got used over several days. teas will certainly be good for at
least a week as long as they are kept aerated. but the LUI's aren't our only
vegging plants so they didn't get an "exclusive" on the tea as it was also
shared with others. we actually had some very thirsty vegging plants. you
might say we had a "tea party" over the new year. so we'll be looking to mix
up a different fert mix the next time our lil LUI's need a feeding. a normal
usage for the tea would be to use about 1/2 of concentrated tea as described
(mixing it directly into water). when the can is about 1/2 empty we'll then
"top off" the can with another couple gallons of straight H2O and use that
undiluted until it's gone. it makes a strong tea that will give a great boost
to vegetative growth.the LUI's are showing some great growth and yes they
will be ready for transplanting soon. we usually top clone our girls before
transplanting. but these are growing so well with such tight internodes that
we may end up transplanting first and then taking our top clones afterwards.
we'll watch them over the next few days and decide based on the plant's
needs. right now the plan would be a day 21 transplant. thanks again for all
the nice comments. we're proud of the progress these plants have been making
so far. and we're very proud that this grow and thread are helping to teach
and inspire others. it's that thought. of helping other's grow their own
medicine. that makes the actual time and effort of documenting and
explaining everything worthwhile.
G
Guest
Day 17
Day 17
Day 17 Care . . . soil surface was "cultivated" gently with a finger at the
begining of the day. by the end of the day the lil LUI's needed a little
drink. the soil surface was dry to the touch and the planters were light in
weight. since they've already recieved 3 feedings in their young lives we
simply watered the whole bunch lightly but evenly with a single gallon of
plain water. Here's today's progress pic and a different look at the same
plant. the 2nd picture shows the "undergrowth" on the lower nodes.
Day 17
Day 17 Care . . . soil surface was "cultivated" gently with a finger at the
begining of the day. by the end of the day the lil LUI's needed a little
drink. the soil surface was dry to the touch and the planters were light in
weight. since they've already recieved 3 feedings in their young lives we
simply watered the whole bunch lightly but evenly with a single gallon of
plain water. Here's today's progress pic and a different look at the same
plant. the 2nd picture shows the "undergrowth" on the lower nodes.
G
Guest
Day 18
Day 18
today we gave the LUI's a light spray with a liquid kelp solution. this is
a form of foliar feeding. for now growers this means our plants will
actually absorb nutrients and hormones directly through their leaves. first
the lights in the grow area were turned off as a precaution. cold water
hitting hot lamps can actually cause a bulb to explode so this is primarily
to protect our light bulbs. under intense light it's sometimes possible for
water spots to occasionally cause leaf burning. so turning off the lamps
also protect the plants. 1 teaspoon of MaxiCrop liquid Kelp concentrate was
then poured into a gallon of water and mixed. a quart of this mixture was
poured into a spray bottle a fine mist was applied to all plants in our grow
portion of our garden (not the bloom room). all leaves were thoroughly
drenched top and bottom with the liquid seaweed solution until moisture
dripped freely off the leaf tips. once the plants were thoroughly soaked we
increased air circulation in the grow room for a hour until the plants had
dried. then we turned the grow lights back on. a nice leaf drenching foliar
feeding is just that simple.kelp is magical stuff. it contains a complete
range of micronutrients and also provides a nice boost of potassium. kelp
also contains some very nice plant growth hormones. applying kelp sprays
can speed plant growth and actually increase final plant yields. it also
helps to provide increased resistance to pests, diseases, and a variety of
stresses.
Day 18
today we gave the LUI's a light spray with a liquid kelp solution. this is
a form of foliar feeding. for now growers this means our plants will
actually absorb nutrients and hormones directly through their leaves. first
the lights in the grow area were turned off as a precaution. cold water
hitting hot lamps can actually cause a bulb to explode so this is primarily
to protect our light bulbs. under intense light it's sometimes possible for
water spots to occasionally cause leaf burning. so turning off the lamps
also protect the plants. 1 teaspoon of MaxiCrop liquid Kelp concentrate was
then poured into a gallon of water and mixed. a quart of this mixture was
poured into a spray bottle a fine mist was applied to all plants in our grow
portion of our garden (not the bloom room). all leaves were thoroughly
drenched top and bottom with the liquid seaweed solution until moisture
dripped freely off the leaf tips. once the plants were thoroughly soaked we
increased air circulation in the grow room for a hour until the plants had
dried. then we turned the grow lights back on. a nice leaf drenching foliar
feeding is just that simple.kelp is magical stuff. it contains a complete
range of micronutrients and also provides a nice boost of potassium. kelp
also contains some very nice plant growth hormones. applying kelp sprays
can speed plant growth and actually increase final plant yields. it also
helps to provide increased resistance to pests, diseases, and a variety of
stresses.
G
Guest
Day 19
Day 19
as for interrupting the light cycle that's a good question and something
that is pretty commonly misunderstood so thanks for asking! the critical
time for plants is in bloom. Cannabis reacts to extended periods of
darkness and if blooming plants nighttime is interrupted it can cause
problems. but vegging plants are certainly more forgiving. and even with
blooming plants having the lights turned off for an hour or two one day
isn't going to cause problems. the rule of thumb is not to interrupt your
cannabis girls beauty rest at night while they are blooming. but an
interruption in the day cycle isn't such a big thing. the 12 hours of
darkness for bloom are the ticket! we currently use our vegging lights
around the clock so letting our plants have an hour or two of darkness
once every great while is not any big thing.
we're very happy
with these plant's progress but will give credit where it's due and also
say that these have been easy plants to grow so far. another question has
come to us via PM that we'd like to address publically and that querry
concerns epsom salts and the organic grower. epsom salts is actually
magnesium sulfate so the basic question was how such a chemical salt can
qualify as "organic". the simple answer is to say that there are many
definitions of the term organic and one definition includes pure mined
minerals which have not been chemically processed. a couple of examples
would be soft rock phosphate and greensand which are considered organic
supliments in some circles. a more common example would be the dolomite
lime that is a part of many many soil reciepes. we use a "natural" mined
source of epsom salts (when we have to use it). http://www.epsogrow.com/
is the website of the product. and again in keeping with our practice of
providing manufacturer's "ad copy" we'll do the same for the epsogrow.
EpsoGrow™ is:
• 100% natural Epsom Salt (magnesium sulfate) originating from natural
deposits in Germany.
• A quick acting magnesium and sulfur fertilizer for dry or liquid
application.
• Clean and odor free!
• Safe to use around the house, children and pets.
• Non-burning even if recommended application is mistakenly exceeded.
• Used and recommended by professional landscapers and gardeners.
• Used by commercial growers of many crops such as tomatoes, melons,
potatoes, grapes, pineapples, ferns, wheat and many others!
• Being used by professional sports teams to keep their turf green and
healthy.
• Widely used by greenhouses nationwide.
A Natural Source of Magnesium and Sulfur -
A Vital Supplement for More Vigorous Plants
The all natural way to grow like a pro!™
• Brighter flower coloration, longer bloom duration.
• Bigger vegetables.
• Stronger trees, greener leaves.
• Enriches soil fertility.
The secret of the European garden:
Europeans have been using Epsom Salt on their gardens for generations to
improve plant growth. Finally there is an all natural source available
here in the U.S. that's the EpsoGrow advertising department talking. not
the 3LB. but this is a good choice for Epsom salts if they are needed.
we're not going to say we are big advocates of regular use of epsom salts.
in general we believe that dolomite lime is a better source of magnesium
since it also contributes to pH balance. some organic ferts like Age Old
Organics are short on Magnesium. and it's also absent in some common salt
fertilizers like Miracle Grow. magnesium is an absolutely essential
element for healthy rapidly growing cannabis. so epsom salts are a good
tool to have available in the gardener's arsenal of resources.
we're actually in the pleasurable position where these girls are ahead of
our expected schedule. it's hard to believe that they are not quite 3
weeks old yet. but the real easy part is behind us. we're going to be top
cloning them soon so we've got to make room for clones. and these girls
are quite ready to be transplanted up to larger containers as well. so
the 3 birds will actually be having to do some real work with this grow
soon!
Day 19
as for interrupting the light cycle that's a good question and something
that is pretty commonly misunderstood so thanks for asking! the critical
time for plants is in bloom. Cannabis reacts to extended periods of
darkness and if blooming plants nighttime is interrupted it can cause
problems. but vegging plants are certainly more forgiving. and even with
blooming plants having the lights turned off for an hour or two one day
isn't going to cause problems. the rule of thumb is not to interrupt your
cannabis girls beauty rest at night while they are blooming. but an
interruption in the day cycle isn't such a big thing. the 12 hours of
darkness for bloom are the ticket! we currently use our vegging lights
around the clock so letting our plants have an hour or two of darkness
once every great while is not any big thing.
we're very happy
with these plant's progress but will give credit where it's due and also
say that these have been easy plants to grow so far. another question has
come to us via PM that we'd like to address publically and that querry
concerns epsom salts and the organic grower. epsom salts is actually
magnesium sulfate so the basic question was how such a chemical salt can
qualify as "organic". the simple answer is to say that there are many
definitions of the term organic and one definition includes pure mined
minerals which have not been chemically processed. a couple of examples
would be soft rock phosphate and greensand which are considered organic
supliments in some circles. a more common example would be the dolomite
lime that is a part of many many soil reciepes. we use a "natural" mined
source of epsom salts (when we have to use it). http://www.epsogrow.com/
is the website of the product. and again in keeping with our practice of
providing manufacturer's "ad copy" we'll do the same for the epsogrow.
EpsoGrow™ is:
• 100% natural Epsom Salt (magnesium sulfate) originating from natural
deposits in Germany.
• A quick acting magnesium and sulfur fertilizer for dry or liquid
application.
• Clean and odor free!
• Safe to use around the house, children and pets.
• Non-burning even if recommended application is mistakenly exceeded.
• Used and recommended by professional landscapers and gardeners.
• Used by commercial growers of many crops such as tomatoes, melons,
potatoes, grapes, pineapples, ferns, wheat and many others!
• Being used by professional sports teams to keep their turf green and
healthy.
• Widely used by greenhouses nationwide.
A Natural Source of Magnesium and Sulfur -
A Vital Supplement for More Vigorous Plants
The all natural way to grow like a pro!™
• Brighter flower coloration, longer bloom duration.
• Bigger vegetables.
• Stronger trees, greener leaves.
• Enriches soil fertility.
The secret of the European garden:
Europeans have been using Epsom Salt on their gardens for generations to
improve plant growth. Finally there is an all natural source available
here in the U.S. that's the EpsoGrow advertising department talking. not
the 3LB. but this is a good choice for Epsom salts if they are needed.
we're not going to say we are big advocates of regular use of epsom salts.
in general we believe that dolomite lime is a better source of magnesium
since it also contributes to pH balance. some organic ferts like Age Old
Organics are short on Magnesium. and it's also absent in some common salt
fertilizers like Miracle Grow. magnesium is an absolutely essential
element for healthy rapidly growing cannabis. so epsom salts are a good
tool to have available in the gardener's arsenal of resources.
we're actually in the pleasurable position where these girls are ahead of
our expected schedule. it's hard to believe that they are not quite 3
weeks old yet. but the real easy part is behind us. we're going to be top
cloning them soon so we've got to make room for clones. and these girls
are quite ready to be transplanted up to larger containers as well. so
the 3 birds will actually be having to do some real work with this grow
soon!
G
Guest
Day 20
Day 20
our normal routine would be to top-clone these babes and as soon as we're
sure that the new cuttings/clones are rooted. then the originals (from
the seed) move to bloom. so looking at a calendar we'll be doing some
top-cloning in the next few days. then it's probably a couple week wait to
be sure our new "back-ups" are all good. then the originals move to bloom.
if for instance we top-cloned this upcoming weekend. then these babes
would move to bloom sometime in the last week of January. these babes are
growing fast. if we were in a hurry they'd be ready to clone tonight.
since were not in a rush we'll likely transplant them first. then a couple
days later we'll top clone. and then we'll bush them up pretty well before
moving them to bloom one of our "secrets" is patience in veg. healthy and
lush vegetation going into bloom leads to more (and better) final herb.
Let me know if you see a predominant dark green/black/purple coloration in
the fan leaves in Vegatative/Early Flowering. I don't think it's a nute
deficiency. as the plants are exhibiting perfect fertilizizaiton signs
(ever so slightly burnt tips) IMO the sign of perfect fertilizer regimen
039 LUI-Day-20
hey there ~toothy~ . . . it's good to see ya round these parts. we
affectionately call them Louies too and they do already show (at only 20
days) some of the coloration you mention. we wrote it off to the "daylight
fluorescent" effect that sometimes happens under strong fluoro lights of
either sunlight or daylight spectrum. it's something we've noticed with
plants grown under lights that are predominantly above 5000K in terms of
their color temp. we've seen Milly Blunt comment of this effect too. how
fan leaves can exhibit a blueish / black / purple / indigo coloration under
daylight fluoros. and certainly it's not something we see with every
strain. and you are absolutely correct. it does not appear to be a
deficiency in any manner shape or form. anymore we simply associate that
coloration with extreme health and vigor. we'd guess that the plants who
show the darkest coloration like this are generally also the ones who will
show more of these hues when maturing under the correct environmental
conditions. as for the slightly burnt tips being the sign of a perfect
fert regimen. in general we tend to agree. it's actually the sign that
we've pushed our plants ever so slightly beyond the edge but that regimin
tends to also push out the biggest buds. in our Herijuana grow we recently
have found an especially hungry couple of plant's that have yet to really
exhibit that slight leaf tip burn in bloom. even after repeated double
strength feedings with EarthJuice. some strains and some particular plants
will always be an exception to the "normal" rules.
Day 20 Care and Feeding . . .
At the beginning of day 20 we felt the soil of our babes and it was still
slightly damp. by the end of the day the soil was dry to the touch and
the 4 1/2" planters were light in weight. so it was time for a
watering/feeding. today's main ingredient will be . . .Alaska® Fish
Fertilizer 5-1-1 All purpose deodorized fish emulsion.Made from 100%
sea-going fish. Contains over 19 different trace elements, plus 11
different vitamins (5-1-1). OMRI Listed-approved for use in production of
organic food. Stimulates soil’s micro-organisms to help build soil
content this feeding will be a fairly heavy one. the first truly full
strength feeding we've given these babes. we mixed 1 Tablespoon of the
fish ferts and 1 teaspoon of the liquid Maxicrop kelp concentrate per
gallon of water. and soaked the soil of each plant until there was some
runoff from the drain holes on each plant. a few minutes later we went
back and dribbled just a lil more into each planter. in all we used 5
quarts of the mixture to water/feed the 13 "Louies". we'd like to point
out again that it's not necessary to purchase every individual product
we use in this thread to recreate our results. the mexi bat guano tea we
applied recently provides a similar nutrient benefit to this fish fert
feeding. we are trying to show a wide variety of products and explain the
thinking behind each feeding so our results can be recreated with
whatever product is available locally. wonderful grows can thrive with as
small a selection as 2 or 3 different ferts to recap what we've done so far
in terms of watering .the very first light feeding was actually a bloom
fert mix very diluted - in what was basically a 1-2-1 ratio of N-P-K. if
memory serves correctly we then watered with a very diluted balanced fert
mix with a 2-1-1 N-P-K ratio. and we followed that with a high nitrogen tea
similar to a dilute 5-1-1 fert. then our plants got a light drink of pure
water. now we've hit them with a full strength 5-1-1 fert again enhanced
with kelp on day 20. a folair feeding with diluted kelp extract finishes off
the listing of what these girls have gotten so far. that's everything through
their first three weeks.
040 alaska-fish-fert
after discussion amongst "the flock" it's been decided that tonight will be
the night we work some cloning magic. woodstock is our magic cloning
birdie. so we'll be documenting our cloning techniques later on and the
next time you see the babes they'll be getting "topped".
Day 20
our normal routine would be to top-clone these babes and as soon as we're
sure that the new cuttings/clones are rooted. then the originals (from
the seed) move to bloom. so looking at a calendar we'll be doing some
top-cloning in the next few days. then it's probably a couple week wait to
be sure our new "back-ups" are all good. then the originals move to bloom.
if for instance we top-cloned this upcoming weekend. then these babes
would move to bloom sometime in the last week of January. these babes are
growing fast. if we were in a hurry they'd be ready to clone tonight.
since were not in a rush we'll likely transplant them first. then a couple
days later we'll top clone. and then we'll bush them up pretty well before
moving them to bloom one of our "secrets" is patience in veg. healthy and
lush vegetation going into bloom leads to more (and better) final herb.
Let me know if you see a predominant dark green/black/purple coloration in
the fan leaves in Vegatative/Early Flowering. I don't think it's a nute
deficiency. as the plants are exhibiting perfect fertilizizaiton signs
(ever so slightly burnt tips) IMO the sign of perfect fertilizer regimen
039 LUI-Day-20
hey there ~toothy~ . . . it's good to see ya round these parts. we
affectionately call them Louies too and they do already show (at only 20
days) some of the coloration you mention. we wrote it off to the "daylight
fluorescent" effect that sometimes happens under strong fluoro lights of
either sunlight or daylight spectrum. it's something we've noticed with
plants grown under lights that are predominantly above 5000K in terms of
their color temp. we've seen Milly Blunt comment of this effect too. how
fan leaves can exhibit a blueish / black / purple / indigo coloration under
daylight fluoros. and certainly it's not something we see with every
strain. and you are absolutely correct. it does not appear to be a
deficiency in any manner shape or form. anymore we simply associate that
coloration with extreme health and vigor. we'd guess that the plants who
show the darkest coloration like this are generally also the ones who will
show more of these hues when maturing under the correct environmental
conditions. as for the slightly burnt tips being the sign of a perfect
fert regimen. in general we tend to agree. it's actually the sign that
we've pushed our plants ever so slightly beyond the edge but that regimin
tends to also push out the biggest buds. in our Herijuana grow we recently
have found an especially hungry couple of plant's that have yet to really
exhibit that slight leaf tip burn in bloom. even after repeated double
strength feedings with EarthJuice. some strains and some particular plants
will always be an exception to the "normal" rules.
Day 20 Care and Feeding . . .
At the beginning of day 20 we felt the soil of our babes and it was still
slightly damp. by the end of the day the soil was dry to the touch and
the 4 1/2" planters were light in weight. so it was time for a
watering/feeding. today's main ingredient will be . . .Alaska® Fish
Fertilizer 5-1-1 All purpose deodorized fish emulsion.Made from 100%
sea-going fish. Contains over 19 different trace elements, plus 11
different vitamins (5-1-1). OMRI Listed-approved for use in production of
organic food. Stimulates soil’s micro-organisms to help build soil
content this feeding will be a fairly heavy one. the first truly full
strength feeding we've given these babes. we mixed 1 Tablespoon of the
fish ferts and 1 teaspoon of the liquid Maxicrop kelp concentrate per
gallon of water. and soaked the soil of each plant until there was some
runoff from the drain holes on each plant. a few minutes later we went
back and dribbled just a lil more into each planter. in all we used 5
quarts of the mixture to water/feed the 13 "Louies". we'd like to point
out again that it's not necessary to purchase every individual product
we use in this thread to recreate our results. the mexi bat guano tea we
applied recently provides a similar nutrient benefit to this fish fert
feeding. we are trying to show a wide variety of products and explain the
thinking behind each feeding so our results can be recreated with
whatever product is available locally. wonderful grows can thrive with as
small a selection as 2 or 3 different ferts to recap what we've done so far
in terms of watering .the very first light feeding was actually a bloom
fert mix very diluted - in what was basically a 1-2-1 ratio of N-P-K. if
memory serves correctly we then watered with a very diluted balanced fert
mix with a 2-1-1 N-P-K ratio. and we followed that with a high nitrogen tea
similar to a dilute 5-1-1 fert. then our plants got a light drink of pure
water. now we've hit them with a full strength 5-1-1 fert again enhanced
with kelp on day 20. a folair feeding with diluted kelp extract finishes off
the listing of what these girls have gotten so far. that's everything through
their first three weeks.
040 alaska-fish-fert
after discussion amongst "the flock" it's been decided that tonight will be
the night we work some cloning magic. woodstock is our magic cloning
birdie. so we'll be documenting our cloning techniques later on and the
next time you see the babes they'll be getting "topped".
G
Guest
Wow no way my seedlings are going to look like that in 10 more days! Awesome thread can't wait to see the rest.
the 45 king
Active member
there's a duplicate thread at gardenscure.com/420, but you need to join to see the grow journals.
