Phellow you can simply top the largest plants, you will lose some bud, but the auxins should travel down to the side branches making up for it, this would solve your height issue.
Ok this is my opinion time, all of the tents sans the Sun Hut look like crap to me, and I will explain why, when you buy a 250+ dollar tent, and the frame isn't all steel, and they expect you to securely mount a vent fan and carbon filter, and in many people's cases an air cooled hood... then not having all steel framework with interlocking joints seems to me to be utterly and completely asinine.
I've seen the Dark Room, the Hydro Hut, the HomeBox, they all have plastic cross joints..... the Hydro and the Dark Room above look like strong frames until you see the corners.
If anyone can correct me on this, go ahead...
Next I would say if you run ANS50 or 51 with a mag core HPS ballast, then you're killing yourselves not switching over to CMH bulbs, your resin production will go through the roof.
The only reason you shouldn't switch is a massive investment in HPS/MH ballasts of watt rating that take you out of the game.
If you're a newbie or someone looking to upgrade, if you run a 3x3 tent, get a 250W CMH and go to town, if you're in a 4x4 go for a 400W CMH, if you're in a 4x8 go for 2x 400W or 3x 250. Some people prefer penetration, others prefer multiple light sources.
And may I suggest that with a CMH since the vast majority of the heat travels upwards, that you switch to vertical bulbs (Philips MasterColor Retro White) as they have a proven safety record, so the normal concerns for MH or HPS of bulb shattering isn't an issue if you buy Philips.
Then you can simply hang it on a yo yo, install your main vent fan and filter at the top of the tent, and vent up and out.
Actually you could install one duct on the top, some duct work, your scrubber mounted and hanging from the studs above, duct work into the antic, inline blower, more duct work and bam, heat is gone.
CMH is wonderful kids, you can get your un air cooled reflector within six inches of the canopy with no burn, trust me I've done it.
Ok I talked smack on the other tent makers for their weak frames, but who of all the makers has the thickest canvas? From what I've read every single tent on the market has pinhole size light leaks due to the canvas being thin the silver lining material having holes in it.
need some advice...... what do you guys think the cheapest way
for me to cool/vent 300 watts of HPS light in a GL60?
i plan on having a small floor fan to move air around, but what about
exhausting stale air from the tent?
i'm looking at bgh's fan section trying to find my best option.........
http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/items.asp?Cc=EF&iTpStatus=0&Tp=&Bc=
any one have any suggestions?
I think 2 of those light systems will be too hot for a tent even with fans blowing at the bulbs unless your ambient temps are pretty low.actually, i should have specified.
will be two 150w with the ballast in the hood, so another hood is not an option.
i was thinking i could get by with a cheap axial near the top...... but i would like to hear
other suggestions
not trying to hate on your post as this is your opinion, but FYI the HydroHut Silver has an ALL STEEL framework and the pieces all clip together with spring-loaded ball bearings:. the corners of the canvas are also reinforced for extra strength in that area. the weight capacity of the ceiling is rated at 130lbs for the 3x3 and even at 110lbs for the 4x8, which is plenty of capacity and is a tad higher than most manufacturers. also, the canvas is very thick and does a great job of keeping the light in. with my 1000w light in there (hydrohut 3x3), the only light leaks i've got are a couple tiny pinholes where the thread stitching is at - you've also gotta have the room completely dark in order to see them.
and are you for real on your light recommendations? a 250w in a 3x3 or 2x400w in a 4x8? are we trying to grow popcorn nugs or some BUDS? CMH lights are great and definitely have their place - like in a micro grow where you have height/footprint restrictions. but in a tent, you've gotta push it to the max and use that light reflectivity to your advantage. penetration is definitely where it's at! i run a 1000w in my 3x3 and wouldn't even consider a light smaller than 600w. now if i had 2x400w CMH, that's a different story - but still twice what you recommended.
also...with ALL bulbs, the majority of the heat generated will go up. why is this? it's because heat rises! most bulb failures resulting in shattering/explosions are the result of getting the hot bulb wet or getting the oils from your skin on them.
my
How hard do you think a 600 would be to cool in a hydrohut 3x3? I was originally thinking of going with a GL80 and a 400watt but now im considering a 600w in a hydrohut. The problem is I live i socal and the ambient temps arent always the lowest, an i would like to keep the noise down. assuming i went with the 600 would a 6" vortex pulling through a filter and a cooltube suffice?