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Grow Automation and Industrial / Computerized Systems Controls
- Thread starter Ttystikk
- Start date
VAtransplant
Active member
Shiiet, seems like you need to measure some things that are exceptionally pricey no matter how you cut it. pH, tds, and co2 probes are on the high end $ wise.
Anyway,
Radioshack or also amazon, 4.7kohm resistors. I think I paid a little under $2 for 5 from radioshack. Each DHT11 temp/humidity needs their own resistor. The DS18b20 one wire temp sensors can be all tied in together thus only requiring one resistor. Very unfortunate that the DHT11 is not one wire, so they hog more of your arduino's pins.
Optional:
SainSmart LCD Module For Arduino 20 X 4 White on Blue screen, $11.95, free shipping, Amazon.
Arduino Ethernet Shield with UNO in description and some high stars, $12-20, free shipping, Amazon. (if you want to log data to web, see remotely, etc) - You'd probably want one or the other or both if you want to see what's going on. Keep in mind the ethernet shield needs an ethernet cable, so if your router is far away you may opt for a $20 TPLink travel router that you can set up to bridge your wifi.
A spare cheapo ethernet cord or something else that you can snag some cables from would be helpful, too. Idunno where the heart of your system would be but it's easy to extend these probes 30+ feet with cable. Their readings thankfully do not get screwy at these distances like some other temp sensors.
That would get you the board, breadboard to make connecting stuff easier (and allow for all these probes), some very accurate temp sensors that you could use in-air and in-water, 4 temp/humidity combo probes, and a relay board to control most anything. The 1000 watt pump is pretty big though, the relay boards generally say 'AC250V 10A' on the description so I have to assume it'd be safe. A $5 float switch would get you water level and is a 2 minute wiring job for even a newbie, it operates just like a push button switch. I use the one on Amazon prime by Amico on my salt water aquarium, have used same style on many aquariums for years in the past.
The other sensors? Stuff I dream of owning, but would add some cash to the total setup. Sparkfun dot com has a $100 ph probe kit including calibration solution which can be operated continuously in a solution for ~12mo without recalib. They're also a local company in Boulder and are huge in the automation game. They have basically everything I listed above for a few bucks more should you wish to go that route.
co2 sensor, I see people mentioning an 'MG811 co2 sensor' on google, but you could probably find the right item on sparkfun or digging a little deeper. same deal with EC.
Anyway,
- Sainsmart Arduino UNO R3 - $17ish on Amazon, free shipping.
- Kootek 4 Relay Board - $8ish on Amazon, free shipping. (or 8 relay for a few bucks more by Kootek, Sainsmart, etc)
- 400 Point microtivity Breadboard Kit with multiple jumper wires, $9ish on Amazon, free shipping.
- 3 x 40P 20cm Dupont Wire Jumper pack, $8ish on Amazon, free shipping.
- Vktech 5 pack DS18b20 Waterproof Temperature Sensors , $13ish on Amazon, free shipping.
- 4PCS DHT11 Digital Humidity Temperature Sensor , $3.25 on Amazon, $3.50 shipping.
Radioshack or also amazon, 4.7kohm resistors. I think I paid a little under $2 for 5 from radioshack. Each DHT11 temp/humidity needs their own resistor. The DS18b20 one wire temp sensors can be all tied in together thus only requiring one resistor. Very unfortunate that the DHT11 is not one wire, so they hog more of your arduino's pins.
Optional:
SainSmart LCD Module For Arduino 20 X 4 White on Blue screen, $11.95, free shipping, Amazon.
Arduino Ethernet Shield with UNO in description and some high stars, $12-20, free shipping, Amazon. (if you want to log data to web, see remotely, etc) - You'd probably want one or the other or both if you want to see what's going on. Keep in mind the ethernet shield needs an ethernet cable, so if your router is far away you may opt for a $20 TPLink travel router that you can set up to bridge your wifi.
A spare cheapo ethernet cord or something else that you can snag some cables from would be helpful, too. Idunno where the heart of your system would be but it's easy to extend these probes 30+ feet with cable. Their readings thankfully do not get screwy at these distances like some other temp sensors.
That would get you the board, breadboard to make connecting stuff easier (and allow for all these probes), some very accurate temp sensors that you could use in-air and in-water, 4 temp/humidity combo probes, and a relay board to control most anything. The 1000 watt pump is pretty big though, the relay boards generally say 'AC250V 10A' on the description so I have to assume it'd be safe. A $5 float switch would get you water level and is a 2 minute wiring job for even a newbie, it operates just like a push button switch. I use the one on Amazon prime by Amico on my salt water aquarium, have used same style on many aquariums for years in the past.
The other sensors? Stuff I dream of owning, but would add some cash to the total setup. Sparkfun dot com has a $100 ph probe kit including calibration solution which can be operated continuously in a solution for ~12mo without recalib. They're also a local company in Boulder and are huge in the automation game. They have basically everything I listed above for a few bucks more should you wish to go that route.
co2 sensor, I see people mentioning an 'MG811 co2 sensor' on google, but you could probably find the right item on sparkfun or digging a little deeper. same deal with EC.
Ttystikk
Member
I'm planning a tech trip to Boulder soon as it is, to Hydro Innovations. They make water chilling equipment specifically for the indoor gardening industry, and I need to discuss my upgrade options with them as well as doing a lil problem solving.
Sparkfun dot com sounds like a perfect complement to that visit! I bet that would give me a great chance to get hands on with some of this gear and perhaps demystify it a bit for myself.
Sparkfun dot com sounds like a perfect complement to that visit! I bet that would give me a great chance to get hands on with some of this gear and perhaps demystify it a bit for myself.
LargePrime
Member
but then he will need someone to walk him thru the code setup
cheaper ph
https://www.tindie.com/products/rezahussain/arduino-ph-shield-by-dormant-labs/
http://www.robotshop.com/en/bnc-ph-sensor-shield-arduino-assembled.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-PH-Probe-Shield-pH-circuit-/190840242850
the above two are 'sheilds' or daughter boards. It is important I think to have a PH shield that has a BNC connector. cause then you can swap out a probe if it wears out
PH probes are real cheap on ebay, or all over.
Also you will want a temp sensor by the probe.
So what happens when you PH starts climbing?
http://rezaalihussain.blogspot.com/2013_02_01_archive.html
About that 1000W load.
If you are controlling 220VAC you will be fine with the 10A SSR (Solid State Relay). if you start switching something close to 10A tho, you will need a bigger relay. Something like this
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10924 (20A, 12V relay)
So what you do is use your SSR relay to turn on 12V to this relay, which in turn switches your load. that means you will need a 12V power supply of some sort.
not done but have to go
cheaper ph
https://www.tindie.com/products/rezahussain/arduino-ph-shield-by-dormant-labs/
http://www.robotshop.com/en/bnc-ph-sensor-shield-arduino-assembled.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-PH-Probe-Shield-pH-circuit-/190840242850
the above two are 'sheilds' or daughter boards. It is important I think to have a PH shield that has a BNC connector. cause then you can swap out a probe if it wears out
PH probes are real cheap on ebay, or all over.
Also you will want a temp sensor by the probe.
So what happens when you PH starts climbing?
http://rezaalihussain.blogspot.com/2013_02_01_archive.html
About that 1000W load.
If you are controlling 220VAC you will be fine with the 10A SSR (Solid State Relay). if you start switching something close to 10A tho, you will need a bigger relay. Something like this
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10924 (20A, 12V relay)
So what you do is use your SSR relay to turn on 12V to this relay, which in turn switches your load. that means you will need a 12V power supply of some sort.
not done but have to go
VAtransplant
Active member
Yeah, I was going to help him out with the code to support all the stuff I listed, and some extremely clear and close up pictures so he can easily get his breadboard wired up. code for the other probes, well.. if the probe itself exists and people have used em with duino (which they definitely have, tons of dudes using this stuff for salt water reef controllers) then the code is out there and likely just a copy/paste away.
Good call on the BNC connector. Probably just spend a few bucks and have a spare probe sitting around ready to swap. Do you mention temp sensor by probe because of ph readings being a little screwy depending on water temp? Easily knocked out with one of the ds18b20 probes above but good call as well - and he can use it to get the temperature of his reservoir.
I'd probably opt for the $15 TOM aqualifter (it's also listed as a dosing pump). I use one with my pico fish tank for an auto-topoff (combined with the float switch I mentioned) but it has a very slow flow rate, 3.5gph. Less when you have the pump above the container, and then the outlet going upwards. Not a very strong pump, so pretty good for this purpose.
I'd probably mix up a ~2 gallon water container from wallymart with your favorite ph down solution/battery acid + lots of water. This should give you an extremely low solution that won't eat through a container (I think the pump is safe due to how it works, not like a traditional water pump). I don't think you'd need to be dosing acid directly, watered down significantly would make the whole shebang safer for a number of reasons. You can probably google what type of plastics are safest for this purpose and then check the bottom of a few containers you'd find. I know my battery acid from Autozone came in a plastic bottle. All else fails, glass like dude in the link did. I can't imagine that it'd take more than 10ccs of a safely watered down solution to maintain a large reservoir especially since it'd be constantly monitored and never have to adjust it more than a point or two at a time. Could always get a bigger container though.
pseudo code:
if(phprobe.reading > 6.0) {
dosingPump.write(DOSINGPUMP,HIGH);
//mixing pump on, if you have one, but I guess not if its dwc and water is flowing in and out constantly
//turn the dosing pump off after a few seconds and delay the next ph probe check for a few minutes, to allow stuff to circulate. if ph still high in ~5 minutes, do the process over
}
A momentary switch, or trigger from the web via your phone (or a million other things including simply unplugging the dosing pump) would disable the probe reading while you flushed your reservoir or did other maintenance.
That would potentially take a few minutes the first time to bring ph down, but that probably wouldn't happen as you'd set your nutes up correctly before flipping the arduino on. after that it'd just be minor maintenance to the ph level. as long as your ph-down solution wasn't excessively strong, you'd be pretty safe using this method.
and with relays - IF you ever needed to switch something over the rating of the relay, I'd just get a bigger relay that switches on 120v and run directly from the arduino relay board. If that limits your selection too much and you did find a relay that will switch on 12v, connect a spare/$5 amazon 12v adapter to your arduino relay board and have that flip the bigger relay as you said.
Good call on the BNC connector. Probably just spend a few bucks and have a spare probe sitting around ready to swap. Do you mention temp sensor by probe because of ph readings being a little screwy depending on water temp? Easily knocked out with one of the ds18b20 probes above but good call as well - and he can use it to get the temperature of his reservoir.
I'd probably opt for the $15 TOM aqualifter (it's also listed as a dosing pump). I use one with my pico fish tank for an auto-topoff (combined with the float switch I mentioned) but it has a very slow flow rate, 3.5gph. Less when you have the pump above the container, and then the outlet going upwards. Not a very strong pump, so pretty good for this purpose.
I'd probably mix up a ~2 gallon water container from wallymart with your favorite ph down solution/battery acid + lots of water. This should give you an extremely low solution that won't eat through a container (I think the pump is safe due to how it works, not like a traditional water pump). I don't think you'd need to be dosing acid directly, watered down significantly would make the whole shebang safer for a number of reasons. You can probably google what type of plastics are safest for this purpose and then check the bottom of a few containers you'd find. I know my battery acid from Autozone came in a plastic bottle. All else fails, glass like dude in the link did. I can't imagine that it'd take more than 10ccs of a safely watered down solution to maintain a large reservoir especially since it'd be constantly monitored and never have to adjust it more than a point or two at a time. Could always get a bigger container though.
pseudo code:
if(phprobe.reading > 6.0) {
dosingPump.write(DOSINGPUMP,HIGH);
//mixing pump on, if you have one, but I guess not if its dwc and water is flowing in and out constantly
//turn the dosing pump off after a few seconds and delay the next ph probe check for a few minutes, to allow stuff to circulate. if ph still high in ~5 minutes, do the process over
}
A momentary switch, or trigger from the web via your phone (or a million other things including simply unplugging the dosing pump) would disable the probe reading while you flushed your reservoir or did other maintenance.
That would potentially take a few minutes the first time to bring ph down, but that probably wouldn't happen as you'd set your nutes up correctly before flipping the arduino on. after that it'd just be minor maintenance to the ph level. as long as your ph-down solution wasn't excessively strong, you'd be pretty safe using this method.
and with relays - IF you ever needed to switch something over the rating of the relay, I'd just get a bigger relay that switches on 120v and run directly from the arduino relay board. If that limits your selection too much and you did find a relay that will switch on 12v, connect a spare/$5 amazon 12v adapter to your arduino relay board and have that flip the bigger relay as you said.
LargePrime
Member
Ima suggest that all of your relays need to be optically isolated
Great call on the dosing pump. See this is why OPEN SOURCE HARDWARE and SOFTWARE
Just thinking out loud..
I see there is interest in using Plc or automation to control things like ph. I don't think it's necessary with most nutrients. I usually use general hydroponics or botanicare and used within normal concentration ranges of above 1000ppm and with water with low tds. No ph adjusting is needed from what I observed. Use a large tank and there's less problems with the solution
I would like to see an automated tank dump and dose function using something simple like a one part nutrient. I dump solution after stretch, .. Or plain water flush.. Etc..
I see there is interest in using Plc or automation to control things like ph. I don't think it's necessary with most nutrients. I usually use general hydroponics or botanicare and used within normal concentration ranges of above 1000ppm and with water with low tds. No ph adjusting is needed from what I observed. Use a large tank and there's less problems with the solution
I would like to see an automated tank dump and dose function using something simple like a one part nutrient. I dump solution after stretch, .. Or plain water flush.. Etc..
Hello all,
Been playing around with theis very subject for a few months now....Had to learn how to program in C#/winforms. As well as Arduino.
I have a background in coding but have not been involved in anything since the early 90's. So my first attempts at coding the arduino and the windows application have been challenging but its been a hobby so all is good.
I have made some breakthroughs since this post...I believe I stole this OP's thunder...it was not intentional as I was and still am looking for input.
Anyway. I have come further, I have CO2 monitoring available now.
In addition, I have been working on a servo-controlled triac (with snubber circuit). Have indeed ordered the gears.
I have sm90 micro-servos and code to control them.
Also, the pre-made circuits(pH, EC) are handy.
My system is based on a 1-wire network using Cat-5 cables. This allows for PWM for servo control as well as 1-wire.
Anyway, I am just having fun with it and would like to expand the system.
The aquarium folks have this wire and many of the system components will can easily be reconfigured for hydroponics/growroom automation.
As mentioned earlier PID control would be hard to implement given the unique charactistics of each growroom. That said, fuzzy logic (much like GROtronics) is the way to go..more adaptable and easier to implement.
Also, the nature of AC equipment such as A/C units and humidifiers and de-humidifiers are on/off or push/pull. Oscillation about the setpoint is almost guaranteed. Having some form of output control is beneficial.
Anyway, here is the link to some of my stuff I put up a while ago.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=273302
Been playing around with theis very subject for a few months now....Had to learn how to program in C#/winforms. As well as Arduino.
I have a background in coding but have not been involved in anything since the early 90's. So my first attempts at coding the arduino and the windows application have been challenging but its been a hobby so all is good.
I have made some breakthroughs since this post...I believe I stole this OP's thunder...it was not intentional as I was and still am looking for input.
Anyway. I have come further, I have CO2 monitoring available now.
In addition, I have been working on a servo-controlled triac (with snubber circuit). Have indeed ordered the gears.
I have sm90 micro-servos and code to control them.
Also, the pre-made circuits(pH, EC) are handy.
My system is based on a 1-wire network using Cat-5 cables. This allows for PWM for servo control as well as 1-wire.
Anyway, I am just having fun with it and would like to expand the system.
The aquarium folks have this wire and many of the system components will can easily be reconfigured for hydroponics/growroom automation.
As mentioned earlier PID control would be hard to implement given the unique charactistics of each growroom. That said, fuzzy logic (much like GROtronics) is the way to go..more adaptable and easier to implement.
Also, the nature of AC equipment such as A/C units and humidifiers and de-humidifiers are on/off or push/pull. Oscillation about the setpoint is almost guaranteed. Having some form of output control is beneficial.
Anyway, here is the link to some of my stuff I put up a while ago.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=273302
Ttystikk
Member
Thanks for the post, and the link. I don't think you sole any things at all, I'm very interested in how you've set things up! I'm really at the beginning, and I readily admit that I don't even know what all the pieces look like yet.
I'm planning a trip to Sparkfun.com in Boulder this week, with some luck I will be able to source most of what I need there and only need to get a free more parts.
It's clear that many people have had and implemented this idea long before I got here, I'm glad this thread is becoming a touchstone for all of us. I hope the ideas generated this far can be shared and built on! For me, I need to get up to speed so I can meaningfully contribute to the conversation.
I'm planning a trip to Sparkfun.com in Boulder this week, with some luck I will be able to source most of what I need there and only need to get a free more parts.
It's clear that many people have had and implemented this idea long before I got here, I'm glad this thread is becoming a touchstone for all of us. I hope the ideas generated this far can be shared and built on! For me, I need to get up to speed so I can meaningfully contribute to the conversation.
LargePrime
Member
did you make the trip? What did you come up with?
Ttystikk
Member
My buddy had a flat which blew this week's plans, so we're looking at next week. I'm excited too!
Lately I've been looking at making a temperature control "brain" I have a few projects around the corner, and isn't specific to growing. I've found some temperature 120VAC controlers on Amazon AGPtek Digital All-purpose Temperature Controller STC-1000 w/Sensor. I'm sure I could attach it to the Allen Bradley Pico unit. Or just keep it simple. just use those as a temp control box.
I'm stoked to get these controllers soon. Only bad thing its in C.. not F. I think 4 of these should cover just about anything, water cooler trigger, auxilary fans, high temp alarm, heaters... good enough for most grow ops.
I'm stoked to get these controllers soon. Only bad thing its in C.. not F. I think 4 of these should cover just about anything, water cooler trigger, auxilary fans, high temp alarm, heaters... good enough for most grow ops.
LargePrime
Member
Details!
http://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-All-purpose-Temperature-Controller-STC-1000/dp/B00862G3TQ
seems the unit is quite inexpensive. How much are the sensors and relays?
Gotta check that out....seems like a really good price
Should be all in one unit.. It should have a remote sensor, and the relay is in the unit. It has one for heat and cool if you so wish to use it that way.
Hook up your power, hook up whatever fan/cooling etc..
samba
Active member
All you need is LOVE
All you need is LOVE
https://www.kickstarter.com/project...the-first-arduino-compatible-plc?ref=category
All you need is CODE!
And some sensors(temp,rH%,pH,EC), contactors, solenoid valves,float switches, dossing pumps and miles of wire
Oh, and a shitload of time.
But this would be a way to collectively develop a grow automation system.
All you need is LOVE
https://www.kickstarter.com/project...the-first-arduino-compatible-plc?ref=category
All you need is CODE!
And some sensors(temp,rH%,pH,EC), contactors, solenoid valves,float switches, dossing pumps and miles of wire
Oh, and a shitload of time.
But this would be a way to collectively develop a grow automation system.
The Meadows
Member
Sainsmart is selling their Arduino Uno board for $10.99 and a mega2560 for $17.99.
I picked up a mega, ethernet sheild, 8 relay module, 8 temperature/humidity sensors, and 5 waterproof temperature sensors.
I send the sensor data to a php script that stores the data in a mysql database. I've made a few different webpages to display the data.
The little 10 amp relays control fans, pumps, and bigger contactors for high current devices.
This is too cool. And cheap. I have a stack of timers I no longer need.
I picked up a mega, ethernet sheild, 8 relay module, 8 temperature/humidity sensors, and 5 waterproof temperature sensors.
I send the sensor data to a php script that stores the data in a mysql database. I've made a few different webpages to display the data.
The little 10 amp relays control fans, pumps, and bigger contactors for high current devices.
This is too cool. And cheap. I have a stack of timers I no longer need.
Ttystikk
Member
Oh I totally agree, and that's why I was so stoked to get started building my own system. I want to integrate indoor greenhouse functions with the building hvac system and reap efficiency gains on both sides, among other objectives!
I still can't wait to get into this, but I feel the need to explain the recent delay; after boldly announcing my intention to charge into the thickets of this uncharted territory, my initial encounter has shown that I'm not quite as ready for this step as I'd initially thought!Therefore, I've been engaged in some retrenchment, as follows;
1. Rebuilding the veg stages to better accommodate the plants I need it to grow.
2. Making sure my bloom stages are identical and so can be operated- and programmed- as completely interchangeable units.
3. Assembling and collating my previously written charts, graphs, maps and schedules, each of which illuminates some aspect of this problem.
4. Bringing in someone who does process design and automation professionally, although mostly in IT environments. I told him these girls were easier to work with, he was enthusiastic. Go figure...
Never let it be said I don't take a big problem seriously!
Once I've got the above up to speed- we're better than halfway along now- this thread should become a lot more interesting!
StoopheadFred
Member
You're on to something here. These STC-1000 have been used in the home brewing community as a brew temp controller for a good few years now and have proven reliable.
http://mostlyharmlessbrewing.com/2013/08/24/keezer-temp-controller-stc-1000/
This site describes how to turn the STC-1000 into a fully operational temp controller. I was also able to find one of these that reads in farenheit (Docooler was the seller on Amazon.com) so I went ahead and bought it.
Since I grow small scale with CFL's, I will be using this device to power on and off cfl's to keep temps in the ideal range. I see there is also a humidity sensing version that I may mess with to try and automate waterings once the humidity reaches a certain threshold.
I'll post back once I get this thing all up and running. Cheers and thanks for the great ideas guys!
