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Grafting to create the perfect Bonsai Mom

Budley Doright

Active member
Veteran
This is absolutely false. The genetics creating the psychoactive agents are not shared by the stock and scion. only the grafted marijuana scion would have the THC and other psychoactive agents, not the hops stock. This is why apple trees with grafts can have more than one variety on the same tree. If your theory is right these would all be hybrids of the multiple grafts and this is not the case.

I am well aware what this would mean for multiple variety mother stock on one plant. If this was so easy it would be commonplace. Show me plants that have been grafted together for months not days.


What paladin said is absolutlely true....


The reason people tried to graft canabis on to hops roots was the hope that the thc was made in the roots....


We know that to be false today ..... but that was the logic.....


One thing that makes grafting cannabis so difficult is that you arent grafting dormant material....



best way is probably to remove all the leaves.... or at least most


if it works it will put out new growth....


New growth means success.....
 

methias

Active member
Well here are 5 more pics a bit better in focus.
You can see her water bottle in some of the shots (a plant nanny) and a larger view.
Some shots of the 20 day old graft and the newest from2 days ago.
You can see some wilting on the new one but she is bagged and time will tell.

See ya :wave:
 

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Canniwhatsis

High country cat herder
Veteran
Tagged! :D


Looks like your doing about as good as I've done. I'm only about 50% success rate overall.

I've never had any luck with the grafting wax, sticky messy crap.

The only advice I can offer is humidity dome over fresh grafts, I use ziplock bags, suppose the soda bottle would kinda work. And try to keep the Zion in a slightly more shaded area, basically treat it like a clone.


I'm trying a "False Graft" on my bonsai mum just for grins.... No clue if it'll work tho.... doing it just like shown here.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=4552026&postcount=47
 

methias

Active member
Tagged! :D


Looks like your doing about as good as I've done. I'm only about 50% success rate overall.

I've never had any luck with the grafting wax, sticky messy crap.

The only advice I can offer is humidity dome over fresh grafts, I use ziplock bags, suppose the soda bottle would kinda work. And try to keep the Zion in a slightly more shaded area, basically treat it like a clone.


I'm trying a "False Graft" on my bonsai mum just for grins.... No clue if it'll work tho.... doing it just like shown here.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=4552026&postcount=47

Looks like I must explain:artist:

The water bottle is a plant nanny auto watering system. It has a hollow terra cotta spike that you shove in the soil and a fitting that screws onto the bottle. Once filled with water it allows it to leach through the spike into the soil (slowly). I can flush her good and add a full 16 oz bottle of water and leave town for two weeks and she lives when we come back.
For normal times I check up on her every other day but only water once the bottle is dry and she droops a bit.
I'm into low maintenance things.:cathug:.

The second graft is in the small plastic bag to the right of the open one

As to my success rate... Currently I'm about 85% failure on grafting with one good and one undecided as of today.

& the wax, yes it is a sticky mess but I found that if you put small amounts of olive oil on your hands and spread it around that helps. also I use a popsicle stick to scrape a small amount wax off the block and LIGHTLY heat the tip over a flame you can spread it onto the joint more easily, thinner, and keep it just where you want it.
It's technique mostly.
Good luck
 

sso

Active member
Veteran
one thing comes to mind.

strains often have very different nute´s need´s,

even within the same strain.

so, wouldnt i basically have to match that?

i would think this would make grafting cannabis a bit of a hit and miss affair?

unless it were a clone grafted on to the rootstock of its donor mothor or something.

dont see the point though, i prefer a new rootsystem on a old plant (clone) keep a plant bit of time, cut a clone..

got a revegger now in flowering, 4 or 5 times revegger (fantastic plant, but took me a long time to manage to clone it lol)

dont see a difference in the plant cause its that much older, the rootsystem is big though and needs regular trimming, the stem is thick and gnarly and its getting to be a tall plant.

the stem and roots are very woody, cracked half the roots because of that, moving the plant and the top swung abit too much, cracked the roots at the base.

plant fine, but its obvious why the hemp is mostly a single season plant.

so, i dont know if a "old" rootsystem would be any better.

revegged plant, Is quicker than a new seedling, but only if you trim the roots and continue to trim the leaves for some time.
 

Canniwhatsis

High country cat herder
Veteran
@ sso, you are correct, different strains often do want different nutes even different pheno's of the same strain can do that.

In my thread I grafted a single node to a plant that I put to flower, given that both the strains feed about the same I figured I'd get good results from the sion,... this was NOT the case however.

I only lightly feed in vege, so there it's not so much a problem, and my grafted motherplant is over a year old now with no real issues, but yes, I have been working on the exact balance to keep all the strains on that rootmass as happy as they can be given the single stem.

@ methias; Sorry about that I missunderstood the bottle. :eek:: I skimmed the thread so my bad.

My best successes have been using surgical tape and ziplock baggies. Quickest new growth was noticed in 5 days, I've played with larger scions, no luck, grafting wax, no luck.

Are you doing "Cleft" grafts like I did? Or are you doing more of a bark grafting method?
 

methias

Active member
@ sso, you are correct, different strains often do want different nutes even different pheno's of the same strain can do that.

In my thread I grafted a single node to a plant that I put to flower, given that both the strains feed about the same I figured I'd get good results from the sion,... this was NOT the case however.

I only lightly feed in vege, so there it's not so much a problem, and my grafted motherplant is over a year old now with no real issues, but yes, I have been working on the exact balance to keep all the strains on that rootmass as happy as they can be given the single stem.

@ methias; Sorry about that I missunderstood the bottle. :eek:: I skimmed the thread so my bad.

My best successes have been using surgical tape and ziplock baggies. Quickest new growth was noticed in 5 days, I've played with larger scions, no luck, grafting wax, no luck.

Are you doing "Cleft" grafts like I did? Or are you doing more of a bark grafting method?

I cut the donor to an arrow point (under water) and let it soak, I cut the recipient branch about 1/4" above the chosen site and drip a drop or two of water on the cut. I then cut the stalk with a new razor at the site top and water drop again. Then I cut straight down the stalk 1/3" (more water), gently I shave a V from the edges in and (more water) I slip the donor branch into the V. I wrap with Sterile gauze 1.5" x 1/4" and (more water). Finally wax to keep the wounds from drying out and a bag / humidity dome.
And wait:clock watch:
 

Canniwhatsis

High country cat herder
Veteran
Yeah, thats a cleft graft.

I've been trying to do my grafting shortly after watering both my host, and scion donor plant.

I cut my scion from its perspective mom, ruff cut 4-5 nodes and place in a glass of water. Once the host site is selected, I'll top the host where the scion will be grafted and split the stem down the middle with a razor. Then I'll shave 2 sides of the scion at an angle to make the bottom of the scion a long wedge shape and insert it into the sliced stem of the host.

This has to be done quickly while both the host and the scion are still "weeping" juices and haven't figured out that theyre hurt just yet.

Rather than grafting wax, I've had great success with surgical tape. The tape serves a dual roll IMO, 1 it seals the wound against drying out which is vital for any graft to take. and 2nd it holds the wound closed under pressure making it easier for the plant to establish fluid pathway's between the host and the scion.

Pic is the grafted branch off of my flower experiment, you can see a defined difference in the phenotype across the graft joint, as well as my method of grafting ;)
attachment.php
 

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methias

Active member
Yeah, thats a cleft graft.

I've been trying to do my grafting shortly after watering both my host, and scion donor plant.

I cut my scion from its perspective mom, ruff cut 4-5 nodes and place in a glass of water. Once the host site is selected, I'll top the host where the scion will be grafted and split the stem down the middle with a razor. Then I'll shave 2 sides of the scion at an angle to make the bottom of the scion a long wedge shape and insert it into the sliced stem of the host.

This has to be done quickly while both the host and the scion are still "weeping" juices and haven't figured out that theyre hurt just yet.

Rather than grafting wax, I've had great success with surgical tape. The tape serves a dual roll IMO, 1 it seals the wound against drying out which is vital for any graft to take. and 2nd it holds the wound closed under pressure making it easier for the plant to establish fluid pathway's between the host and the scion.

Pic is the grafted branch off of my flower experiment, you can see a defined difference in the phenotype across the graft joint, as well as my method of grafting ;)

Nice clean heal there.:tiphat:
For me the wax seems to work but I must ask;
the tape, Cloth or paper or synthetic?
About how big a piece of tape to wrap?
Just cuz I got this to go once means nothing.
I am willing to learn to get it right.
 

Canniwhatsis

High country cat herder
Veteran
Hell, at only 50% success, I've FAR from got it RIGHT! :eek:: Thanks none the less :tiphat: That graft was one of my quickest heals to date.


As for the tape, I've tried about everything, from painters masking tape, to electrical tape.

Of what I've tried, medical or surgical tape is the best. Something with an aggressive adhesive (seals well), but still lifts lightly and will breath.

While I haven't used this for anything I've done, I'm thinking it will be perfect!
http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=blenderm+tape&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8


Electrical tape is my second choice, it doesn't breath at all, but it's adhesive is made to be waterproof, so it will block out any fluid loss thru evaporation......, and it shrinks, so stretch it slightly to create a nice tight wind..... ;) trouble is that it's very aggressive, sticks like mad and when you try to peel it off,... it's likely to cause trauma to the wound! I've had one that peeled the graft back open, and the growing graft died :frown:
 

methias

Active member
Hell, at only 50% success, I've FAR from got it RIGHT! :eek:: Thanks none the less :tiphat: That graft was one of my quickest heals to date.


As for the tape, I've tried about everything, from painters masking tape, to electrical tape.

Of what I've tried, medical or surgical tape is the best. Something with an aggressive adhesive (seals well), but still lifts lightly and will breath.

While I haven't used this for anything I've done, I'm thinking it will be perfect!
http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=blenderm+tape&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8


Electrical tape is my second choice, -------- I've had one that peeled the graft back open, and the growing graft died :frown:

Yes.
One of my recurring nightmares.:hide:
Thats where gauze & wax shine.
the gauze is absorbed or easily torn due to growth of the stalk and the wax will not harm anything so no untaping.
Thanks for the input.

Peace
 

nsaneone

Member
People who are interested in this should look into grafting tomatoes. It is extremely common in Asia. The same techniques apply here. Specifically, one can purchase grafting clips which are designed for just this purpose and superior to wax on herbaceous stuff. Just google "tomato grafting clips." Numerous sizes are available, and they are MUCH easier to work with than grafting wax (although that certainly works). Also, are you guys putting your plants in the dark after grafting? Bag the whole plant and give 'em 5 days to 1 week in the dark. No photosynthesis is good after you graft.
 

P@ssw0rd

New member
Hello everyone, I have experimented with grafting in the past and had no luck with wedge grafting like it seems everyone is doing. It seemed beyond me as i do not pretend to be any kind of an expert on grafting or even plants in general, my few experiments failed and i was discouraged to try again for quite awhile. Until i learned about "Approach Grafting" which is a technique where the plants are grafted together BEFORE the scion is separated from it's own rootstock, using this technique even my early experiments got a 50% success ratio and even if the graft does not take you lose nothing, both plants are still perfectly healthy and you can try again in a different spot.

I use no special tools or materials and i secure the graft using electrical tape, no waxes homrones chemicals or domes. I find it easiest to do with plants that are still small. What i do is use cuttings that have rooted and been transplanted to beer cups of promix, i select my 2 plants to be grafted then i tape the cups themselves together to make it all one solid cohesive unit thus preventing stress on the graft from movement of the individual plants if something was to shift. Then i perform my approach graft, seal it up with electrical tape and pretty much leave it alone for no less then 2 weeks , a month is best in my experience.

After a month carefully remove the electrical tape using a razor so you don't put any stress on the joint pulling the tape off. Under the tape you should find a large ball of hard light colored plant tissue like a scar where the 2 meet. After verifying that they have in fact scarred together you can separate it from it's rootstock and it will continue to grow while drawing water and nutrients from it's host.

Occasionally i have had problems at this stage, that is after separating the scion from it's rootstock sometimes the scion will show a noticeable droop followed by wilting, sometimes it would bounce back sometimes it would die off. To compensate for this i have a trick, when you make the cut to seperate them do not cut the scion off flush with the host rather leave 2-3 inches of stem on it below the graft, then check them an hour after making the cut and if you notice ANY droop get a water bottle and fill it with water then place it under the plant with the cut end of the scion into the bottle of water as if it was a cut flower in a vase. It will quickly perk back up and be just fine just keep the water bottle full for the next week or 2, you can test to see if it is ready to be separated from this life support system by simply removing the bottle of water and watching for droop, no droop then its ready to go without, if it droops then put the water bottle back. Again this is all often unnecessary and you may never need to use it but it is a handy trick if you ever really needed a cut to take.

As a side note and only of my own opinion, grafting is impractical for production for afew reasons. It is however an awesome tool for a medical patient with hoarder tendencies and a strict plant limit.

I would be happy to answer any questions if i have been unclear or if i missed something. Best of luck P@ssw0rd
 

methias

Active member
People who are interested in this should look into grafting tomatoes. It is extremely common in Asia. The same techniques apply here. Specifically, one can purchase grafting clips which are designed for just this purpose and superior to wax on herbaceous stuff. Just google "tomato grafting clips." Numerous sizes are available, and they are MUCH easier to work with than grafting wax (although that certainly works). Also, are you guys putting your plants in the dark after grafting? Bag the whole plant and give 'em 5 days to 1 week in the dark. No photosynthesis is good after you graft.

Nice tip
I will look that up
I seem to remember something about those but I just did a bag O vape and it's a bit fuzzy...:)
 

methias

Active member
Thanks for the advice P@ssw0rd.
In the event that the new graft I did today fails I think I will try your method next.
But first an update.
 

methias

Active member
Update

Update

Well first thing first The established graft is thriving and I believe we have it. This is my first successful grafting :jump:
As you can see the whole mom with the established graft tagged. You can see the wax ball at the graft and the growth is good. A close up of this shows the healthy growth.:D

Now on to failure. The attempt from a few days ago died.
I prepared another graft from the donor and went for it again. I cut the failed graft off and about one inch down I made a clean cut and V and tried again. You can see the closeup of her in the bag. I will be taking more pics to update on this one as time goes by.

Thanks for the interest and comments.
& may all your buds be tight.
Peace
 

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methias

Active member
Still at it

Still at it

Welcome back to the mom of many flavors.

As those of you who have followed these posts know I am working towards creating a mom with 2-3 different strains to clone from so that I can have a bit O variety from my mini grow setup.
After many fails I have a success and I am working on the second graft of ET onto Judy.

Today I have new pics. Graft 1 is doing great and graft 2 is essentially unchanged. :ying:That however is a good thing. No wilting!!!!

You can see how well the first graft is thriving. Makes me really wish I had the sense to graft it lower on Judy. Live and learn...:tiphat:

The new attempt still has promise. See for yourself.
 

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