Not a full run but bits and pieces. It does yield well. I press a good bit of mine into rosin.
The smell is insane and the yield is higher than most cultivars. The Glue is hella greasy!
Have a sweet day. Peace, negative.
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Gorilla Glue #4 - Part II
- Thread starter Skip
- Start date
The smell is insane and the yield is higher than most cultivars. The Glue is hella greasy!
Have a sweet day. Peace, negative.
Frosty the snowman.....GG4 clone only in full white out mode.
Yeah, same. But not online in my case, it was a local friend of mine. Passed me a GDP cut, which I hadn't even asked for... isolated for a couple weeks, all seemed fine. A month later, start finding spider mites. Those particular fuckers were next to impossible to kill. Ended up losing like 30-40 elite cuts that I had spent years putting together.
I do miss running the GG4. My wife's favorite, ever, and in my top 5 or so. Always yielded buckets, always tastes great, always uber potent. But I'm just so hesitant to get it back from anyone now. I've been running all seed runs the past couple years. Finding some special things, but I still miss my old favorites.
I tried everything on those little bastards, but they have 20 day life cycle, and have been exposed to everything over years in warehouse grows, so evolve to be resistant to everything. At the end put 2 no pest strips which should kill anything in 5 x 5 tent sealed for 3 days. Looked under scope and they were running around like meth heads. That caused botrytis and everything died. After removing everything bug bombed 4 times a week apart, and took 6 months off, leaving a regular light bulb on 24/7. With short light or no light they go into hibernation for upto a year, which is why many get them back again.
A huge difference between the borg and spider mites you might get from outdoors that never saw pesticides.
I wasn't aware of the no light/short light dormancy issue. Good shit.
But yeah, these fuckers were the very definition of The Borg. Abermectin did almost nothing, which blew my mind, as that was my last resort at the time (or so I thought). I did end up figuring out/finding a recipe for a home made insecticide that did kill them pretty well. Just had to do it almost daily for a couple weeks. But I threw in the towel after I had already lost half of my shit. Let the rest go, and the room has been dormant for two years+ now. Just moved my cacti in there for the winter.
But yeah, these fuckers were the very definition of The Borg. Abermectin did almost nothing, which blew my mind, as that was my last resort at the time (or so I thought). I did end up figuring out/finding a recipe for a home made insecticide that did kill them pretty well. Just had to do it almost daily for a couple weeks. But I threw in the towel after I had already lost half of my shit. Let the rest go, and the room has been dormant for two years+ now. Just moved my cacti in there for the winter.
This is what chat gpt says. Might be good to put sacrificial plants in suspected area to see if they get infected.
Spider mites, like the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae), can enter a state known as diapause, which is similar to hibernation. Diapause allows them to survive unfavorable conditions, such as cold temperatures or a lack of food, by pausing their development and lowering their metabolic activity. Several factors enable spider mites to enter diapause:
- Photoperiod (Day Length): As days grow shorter in autumn, spider mites detect the decreasing daylight and use it as a signal to enter diapause.
- Temperature: Cooler temperatures in combination with shorter days signal mites to start preparing for diapause. However, if the environment remains warm, spider mites can continue their active life cycle without entering diapause.
- Hormonal Changes: Similar to many other insects, spider mites experience hormonal shifts that trigger diapause when environmental cues indicate that unfavorable conditions are coming.
Think my gg4 cut got sent in with pm
Feeling gutted
Feeling gutted
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PM is killable
Sulfur. Wettable sulfur can be sprayed on, or you can vaporize in a sulfur burner. Pyrethrin, also organic will defeat them. For either or I’d apply them every 3 days.
We aren't talking about your garden variety spider mite. They're easy enough to deal with if caught early. The Borg refers to spider mite populations which have developed resistance to most common forms of IPM.
Pyrethrin, while it is organic, can't be used by anyone with cats in the house. Unless you don't care about your cats being alive. So I've never used pyrethrin, and can't speak to its effectiveness.
Pyrethrin, while it is organic, can't be used by anyone with cats in the house. Unless you don't care about your cats being alive. So I've never used pyrethrin, and can't speak to its effectiveness.
chronosync
Well-known member
wettable sulfur or micronized sulfur at 3 TBS / gallon. Make a bucket of it and add some soap or other surfactant or wetting agent. Dunk cuts or even whole plants if you can keep the medium from falling out.
Dunk the cuts and spray all plants in veg from bottom to top under leaf and stems and then the top down to cover the leaves from the top. Make sure you spray the top of medium too. Do it 5 days apart 3 times or 7 days apart twice. You can spray more but is your call.
Do not mix with any oil. If oil has been used then you have to wait
PM needs a host to survive. Sulfur keeps it from being able to infect the leaf. As long as your plants cant be infected then it can’t reproduce. It will die off after a few weeks of sulfur treatment.
I don't battle PM. As soon as it's spotted the cut gets tossed into the woods. I will treat the other ladies that were near by. Luckily I knew what it was as soon as it was spotted.
A new cut is being rooted at a separate clean location and will be sent in once I'm sure there is no PM present anywhere else.
Super thankful for kind souls because I love GG4 and it would be a terrible existence not having her in my stable. Thank you !
A new cut is being rooted at a separate clean location and will be sent in once I'm sure there is no PM present anywhere else.
Super thankful for kind souls because I love GG4 and it would be a terrible existence not having her in my stable. Thank you !
I had pm for about a year in my indoor setup. Got it from some infected clones from cali. I tried almost a dozen different fungicides and it kept coming back. I finally used wettable sulfur and it was gone in 2 weeks. It's been about 3 years now and I haven't had it since.
chronosync
Well-known member
Heck yeah thats what I like to hear. PM hit me last year after years of growing and never saw it before. Luckily one of the cheapest options turned out to be one of the best. Now I hit everything with it before flower, especially this time of year, and I get my mother plants while im at it. Glad to hear it worked for you as well.
Can it be used one month into flower, or will it ruin the taste?
I thought GG4 was extremely resistant to PM. I had white fire OG which turned all white from it in deep flower, and gg4 was right next to it doing OK. That was growing in damp basement.
chronosync
Well-known member
I wouldnt use it anytime after flip. When I was fighting PM in flower I used h2o2 and high pH water. It seemed to beat it back but I had to keep up with it every few days or so. (store peroxide @ 2 parts water 1 part h2o2 and water pH'd to 8+ using pH up)
Only in veg. I did not have the glue at that time so im not sure how it would've faired against pm but gg4 is definitely resistant to budrot at least, last grow the rh was in the 70's for most of flower and i got zero mold.
So far so good. Couple weeks in.
Looking sexy there sir! Healthy girls.
Have a sweet day.
Peace, negative.
Have a sweet day.
Peace, negative.
