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Gorilla Glue #4 - Part II

negative37dBA

Well-known member
Veteran
Have you ever washed her? I imagine she’s yield well.
Not a full run but bits and pieces. It does yield well. I press a good bit of mine into rosin.
gg4 fresh press 2 - Copy.jpg

The smell is insane and the yield is higher than most cultivars. The Glue is hella greasy!
Have a sweet day. Peace, negative.
 

Wolverine97

Well-known member
Veteran
I wondered if anyone had real GG4 anymore with everyone calling seeds GG4, but this has the leaf twist. Really miss it, and regret buying online clones that wiped out everything I had and wasted 2 years.
Yeah, same. But not online in my case, it was a local friend of mine. Passed me a GDP cut, which I hadn't even asked for... isolated for a couple weeks, all seemed fine. A month later, start finding spider mites. Those particular fuckers were next to impossible to kill. Ended up losing like 30-40 elite cuts that I had spent years putting together.

I do miss running the GG4. My wife's favorite, ever, and in my top 5 or so. Always yielded buckets, always tastes great, always uber potent. But I'm just so hesitant to get it back from anyone now. I've been running all seed runs the past couple years. Finding some special things, but I still miss my old favorites.
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
Yeah, same. But not online in my case, it was a local friend of mine. Passed me a GDP cut, which I hadn't even asked for... isolated for a couple weeks, all seemed fine. A month later, start finding spider mites. Those particular fuckers were next to impossible to kill. Ended up losing like 30-40 elite cuts that I had spent years putting together.

I do miss running the GG4. My wife's favorite, ever, and in my top 5 or so. Always yielded buckets, always tastes great, always uber potent. But I'm just so hesitant to get it back from anyone now. I've been running all seed runs the past couple years. Finding some special things, but I still miss my old favorites.
I tried everything on those little bastards, but they have 20 day life cycle, and have been exposed to everything over years in warehouse grows, so evolve to be resistant to everything. At the end put 2 no pest strips which should kill anything in 5 x 5 tent sealed for 3 days. Looked under scope and they were running around like meth heads. That caused botrytis and everything died. After removing everything bug bombed 4 times a week apart, and took 6 months off, leaving a regular light bulb on 24/7. With short light or no light they go into hibernation for upto a year, which is why many get them back again.

A huge difference between the borg and spider mites you might get from outdoors that never saw pesticides.
 

Wolverine97

Well-known member
Veteran
I wasn't aware of the no light/short light dormancy issue. Good shit.
But yeah, these fuckers were the very definition of The Borg. Abermectin did almost nothing, which blew my mind, as that was my last resort at the time (or so I thought). I did end up figuring out/finding a recipe for a home made insecticide that did kill them pretty well. Just had to do it almost daily for a couple weeks. But I threw in the towel after I had already lost half of my shit. Let the rest go, and the room has been dormant for two years+ now. Just moved my cacti in there for the winter.
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
I wasn't aware of the no light/short light dormancy issue. Good shit.
But yeah, these fuckers were the very definition of The Borg. Abermectin did almost nothing, which blew my mind, as that was my last resort at the time (or so I thought). I did end up figuring out/finding a recipe for a home made insecticide that did kill them pretty well. Just had to do it almost daily for a couple weeks. But I threw in the towel after I had already lost half of my shit. Let the rest go, and the room has been dormant for two years+ now. Just moved my cacti in there for the winter.
This is what chat gpt says. Might be good to put sacrificial plants in suspected area to see if they get infected.

Spider mites, like the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae), can enter a state known as diapause, which is similar to hibernation. Diapause allows them to survive unfavorable conditions, such as cold temperatures or a lack of food, by pausing their development and lowering their metabolic activity. Several factors enable spider mites to enter diapause:
  1. Photoperiod (Day Length): As days grow shorter in autumn, spider mites detect the decreasing daylight and use it as a signal to enter diapause.
  2. Temperature: Cooler temperatures in combination with shorter days signal mites to start preparing for diapause. However, if the environment remains warm, spider mites can continue their active life cycle without entering diapause.
  3. Hormonal Changes: Similar to many other insects, spider mites experience hormonal shifts that trigger diapause when environmental cues indicate that unfavorable conditions are coming.
During diapause, spider mites may gather in protected areas, such as under leaves, in soil, or near structures, until conditions become favorable again for feeding and reproduction. This adaptation helps them survive through seasons when host plants are scarce or environmental conditions are harsh.
 

Turbo5

Member
I tried everything on those little bastards, but they have 20 day life cycle, and have been exposed to everything over years in warehouse grows, so evolve to be resistant to everything. At the end put 2 no pest strips which should kill anything in 5 x 5 tent sealed for 3 days. Looked under scope and they were running around like meth heads. That caused botrytis and everything died. After removing everything bug bombed 4 times a week apart, and took 6 months off, leaving a regular light bulb on 24/7. With short light or no light they go into hibernation for upto a year, which is why many get them back again.

A huge difference between the borg and spider mites you might get from outdoors that never saw pesticides.
Sulfur. Wettable sulfur can be sprayed on, or you can vaporize in a sulfur burner. Pyrethrin, also organic will defeat them. For either or I’d apply them every 3 days.
 

Wolverine97

Well-known member
Veteran
We aren't talking about your garden variety spider mite. They're easy enough to deal with if caught early. The Borg refers to spider mite populations which have developed resistance to most common forms of IPM.

Pyrethrin, while it is organic, can't be used by anyone with cats in the house. Unless you don't care about your cats being alive. So I've never used pyrethrin, and can't speak to its effectiveness.
 

chronosync

Well-known member
Think my gg4 cut got sent in with pm
Feeling gutted

wettable sulfur or micronized sulfur at 3 TBS / gallon. Make a bucket of it and add some soap or other surfactant or wetting agent. Dunk cuts or even whole plants if you can keep the medium from falling out.

Dunk the cuts and spray all plants in veg from bottom to top under leaf and stems and then the top down to cover the leaves from the top. Make sure you spray the top of medium too. Do it 5 days apart 3 times or 7 days apart twice. You can spray more but is your call.

Do not mix with any oil. If oil has been used then you have to wait

PM needs a host to survive. Sulfur keeps it from being able to infect the leaf. As long as your plants cant be infected then it can’t reproduce. It will die off after a few weeks of sulfur treatment.
 

Brother Bear

Simple kynd of man
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I don't battle PM. As soon as it's spotted the cut gets tossed into the woods. I will treat the other ladies that were near by. Luckily I knew what it was as soon as it was spotted.
A new cut is being rooted at a separate clean location and will be sent in once I'm sure there is no PM present anywhere else.
Super thankful for kind souls because I love GG4 and it would be a terrible existence not having her in my stable. Thank you !
 

Dube

Member
wettable sulfur or micronized sulfur at 3 TBS / gallon. Make a bucket of it and add some soap or other surfactant or wetting agent. Dunk cuts or even whole plants if you can keep the medium from falling out.

Dunk the cuts and spray all plants in veg from bottom to top under leaf and stems and then the top down to cover the leaves from the top. Make sure you spray the top of medium too. Do it 5 days apart 3 times or 7 days apart twice. You can spray more but is your call.

Do not mix with any oil. If oil has been used then you have to wait

PM needs a host to survive. Sulfur keeps it from being able to infect the leaf. As long as your plants cant be infected then it can’t reproduce. It will die off after a few weeks of sulfur treatment.
I had pm for about a year in my indoor setup. Got it from some infected clones from cali. I tried almost a dozen different fungicides and it kept coming back. I finally used wettable sulfur and it was gone in 2 weeks. It's been about 3 years now and I haven't had it since.
 
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