get yellowing alot under cmh if there root bound in solo cups. It seems. No matter how much n or calmag I use. I’ve been feeding at 1.5 in veg and 1. 3 in bloom. Are you feed all your varieties at that Hammer?
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Gorilla Glue #4 - Part II
- Thread starter Skip
- Start date
get yellowing alot under cmh if there root bound in solo cups. It seems. No matter how much n or calmag I use. I’ve been feeding at 1.5 in veg and 1. 3 in bloom. Are you feed all your varieties at that Hammer?
I feed allot less then you guys..
All plants get 400-450 ppm in veg using happy frog. All plants got 1.3ec in flower....
I changed to promix. This has no pre charge.. I'm probably going to need to up my ppm/ec levels.
Promix
Canadian sphagnum peat moss (65-75%); Perlite; wetting Agent; Dolomitic & calcitic limestone (pH adjuster); Mycorrhizae
https://www.hydrofarm.com/f/i/2l87nyo/HydroFarm - Info Sheets_PT20281_20381_7093.pdf
All plants get 400-450 ppm in veg using happy frog. All plants got 1.3ec in flower....
I changed to promix. This has no pre charge.. I'm probably going to need to up my ppm/ec levels.
Promix
Canadian sphagnum peat moss (65-75%); Perlite; wetting Agent; Dolomitic & calcitic limestone (pH adjuster); Mycorrhizae
https://www.hydrofarm.com/f/i/2l87nyo/HydroFarm - Info Sheets_PT20281_20381_7093.pdf
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if there's no mixing issues at the plant HF works great. If u get a bad batch it will kill ur plants. I lost my HK mom for a bad HF bag. There was 5 plants I up potted using this bag. All of them starting dieing. I took those plants out shook off as much of that soil as I could re planted into PROMIX. All but the HK mom recovered. My HK mom was a big girl after I tried taking her out of that crap soil and re potted she didn't survive.
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u can tell if its bad. The bag I used had these red clumps with pretty much no perlite.
~star~crash~
Active member
sure it was the Happy Frog?? i'm using 100% Ocean Forest it is way better then the happy frog imho...no problems what-so-ever & plants have never looked better?
I’ll look st the 2 I have. Going back up there to get the ffof soil Thursday. So I’ll probsbly just return it. Thank you though.
~star~crash~
Active member
i have an outlet & i gave him some GG#4 to check out ... let me explain my world ...the peeps around here don't really know about genetics ...this is how it is here in my area ... they want good pot though ...he said in the 20 years he been doing this he never got such a reaction form his customers ... it's worth $4k per pound...thank U Joesy Wales where-ever U dwell ...
i don't know about anyone else situation , but that guy gave me a better livelihood for free! so yeah i love him!!
i don't know about anyone else situation , but that guy gave me a better livelihood for free! so yeah i love him!!
i have an outlet & i gave him some GG#4 to check out ... let me explain my world ...the peeps around here don't really know about genetics ...this is how it is here in my area ... they want good pot though ...he said in the 20 years he been doing this he never got such a reaction form his customers ... it's worth $4k per pound...thank U Joesy Wales where-ever U dwell ...
I love me some JW too.... nothing but respect for that old fart... He did the same for me Star.... And i may or may not have something extra special laying around from the old man in the smoke himself... something special to pop in a few months.....
Drumskinz
Well-known member
Joe, are the quantum boards you'r using the HLG 550's or something else? I have been checking them out for a while now and still haven't pulled the trigger. How close are you getting to the tops of plants comfortably?
Promix bx is what I used for years till I switched to coco. Always had good results. Only problems I ever had with it was when I reused it to many times with out replacing the ph buffers.
No mine are diy builds. I bought the boards and heat sinks from hlg and the drivers from arrow. Mine are 550's with a little extra boost from the driver. Hlg builds theirs for efficiency and effectiveness. I'm more on the effectiveness side of the fence so I drive em harder. Only about 20 more watts per board but that brings the efficiency down a bit.
I started out with them turned down as low as they would go and closer than 30" caused par stress but now I have them at 3/4 power and 24" with no issues.
Drumskinz
Well-known member
I’m impressed with how gg4 is jumpin out of her skin with those boards and nutes. How is the penetration and temps compared to either hps or cmh? Sorry for being stupid but you said you had the power turned down all the way at a height of 30 inches and you had par stress now you’ve turned it up to 3/4’s power and are closer to the plants at 24 inches and they are loving it...Wow!!!
~star~crash~
Active member
i'm old fashioned when it come to lamps and flowering ..strictly HPS 1000 watt bulbs and they suit my needs pretty well all i've ever used ... i don't grow indoors in the summer time so heat issues don't apply
Natural high
Member
As long as temperature isn't an issue then HPS is still the gold standard for flowering. Ideal color temperature for flowering (2,300K), huge lumen output and great penetration translates to big buds and big yields..
I will never use HPS again. CMH= Best flowers I have grown.
The penetration is way better than any other light I have used. Lower buds are fat and sassy. Not airy like they would be under hps or cmh.
This is my first flower run with the new badass leds. The 1nz I have flowered under are only about 1/2 the power of the new 1nz. 9 boards in a 42x42 frame for a total of 720 watts at the wall.
When I got par stress the plants came from 315 watt cmh lights to the led's running about 240 watts.
Running full bore the boards only get to 120f with no cooling at all. Full bore is around 700 watts per 4 boards with the drivers I'm using.
If ya need heat in the winter it's a good idea to leave a bps or 2 hung for heat. I don't like adding electric heaters. Most of em range from 750 to 1500 watts. If I'm gonna be using that much power to heat the room I may as well run a light for dual purpose
The penetration is way better than any other light I have used. Lower buds are fat and sassy. Not airy like they would be under hps or cmh.
This is my first flower run with the new badass leds. The 1nz I have flowered under are only about 1/2 the power of the new 1nz. 9 boards in a 42x42 frame for a total of 720 watts at the wall.
When I got par stress the plants came from 315 watt cmh lights to the led's running about 240 watts.
Running full bore the boards only get to 120f with no cooling at all. Full bore is around 700 watts per 4 boards with the drivers I'm using.
If ya need heat in the winter it's a good idea to leave a bps or 2 hung for heat. I don't like adding electric heaters. Most of em range from 750 to 1500 watts. If I'm gonna be using that much power to heat the room I may as well run a light for dual purpose
Whats the price running on those LEDs if u don't mind me askin. ??.. At some point LED is the next upgrade.
Natural high
Member
I have both 630w of CMH (2 x315w) and a 600w single-ended HPS. In my experience:
HPS beats CMH for bud size, bud to leaf ratio and yield. Quality/potency is fantastic as long as heat is not an issue.
CMH beats HPS for visible resin, especially on the leaves. Buds are smaller and leafier but with better terps, partly because the room runs cooler and partly due to more blue/UV light. Potency is on par with HPS.
The new ones and have cost about 500 to build for 4 boards with heat sinks, frame, driver and wire. Kind pricey on the front end but I'll never have to buy bulb so that along with power and cooling savings I'm making money back already.
It was hard for me to wrap my head around it at first but I think I got it now.
Hammer if "YOU" want I will give you the ceo's personal phone number so you can ask questions directly from the designer. He will also cut the price a bit maybe for someone like yourself that can help give positive exposure.
It was hard for me to wrap my head around it at first but I think I got it now.
Hammer if "YOU" want I will give you the ceo's personal phone number so you can ask questions directly from the designer. He will also cut the price a bit maybe for someone like yourself that can help give positive exposure.
