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Gorilla Glue #4 bud pic thread
- Thread starter unclefishstick
- Start date
IDK the Calyxes seem all wrong... GG has a very distinct look.
Here is one stacking pretty well for me... You guys are all killing. Guys hitting her perfect.
I wish I could get my Glue to stack like that! Mine looks just like Twisted's do.
The biggest factor in making "any" strain stack nodes and prevent internode elongation begins with fully rooted cuts as well as seedlings that actually do better with no mom history behind em to already guide growth structure , but I digress....
I was taught waaaay long time ago once roots are fully established to drop the lights dead nut down on top of the plants just far enough away to prevent bleaching and heat scorch.....IOW....
Blast their ass till the flip , make sure each plant`s innards are cleaned out from the mainstem on each dominant lateral with as much trimming and shaping as needed , then pull the trigger...
Keep the lights as close as needed EACH day till stretch is over completely , then get rid of all foliage inside and drop the micro`s and N source no matter where it comes from , even calcium nitrate , but guaranteed with all limbs cleaned out of sucker branches and shit that aint worth the hash pile , colas will stack and swell accordingly with all vital energy goin straight to em ....now...
Your lil experiment with multiple plants in each container to emulate a SOG setup is headed in the right direction since plant numbers do indeed dictate yield , but most deal with restrictions on their scrips and can`t try SOG , ....but...
Watts per sq ft also dictate nug density/quality IME , so when Dans runs 1000 watters over a 4 x 4 table @ 62.5 watts . you too can do the same thing with 66.66 watts in a 3 x 3 area , it just takes having a set gameplan and following through....now....
I don`t know shit about these new DE fixtures that`re "supposed" ta be ceiling mounted to provide as much footprint as possible , but with HID lighting , as close as the bitches can stand it once rooted and ready to rock will make yas happy , saw it first hand for a long time.....
I do see things changing with the high bay lighting making a larger footprint since there`s a flat grow with gavita`s in the vert section with a stadium set up on each side of the floor , so there`s really no tellin where yield will get with these beasts once folks have enough runs under their belts to find out how much dope you can actually grow under less light on the ceilings ....anyways....
My 2 cents from all them yrs....
Peace....DHF....
.....
Thanx. Ill drop my lamps on the S.O.G side and see whats good.
I don't get the calyx swell untill the last 3 weeks or so . thats when they really start swelling .
i've seen soil grows of it & it does take on a different look , even at the finish . sprouts done both hydro & an organic soil grow with her & you'd swear it was a different plant .
DHF is right about the WPSF & the pruning !!!
but the main thing with GG4 is dialing in the nutes ! she needs a heavy feed with extra Mag in veg & then a lighter feed in flower otherwise you lock up the budset . i've seen it alot in some of the bud pics here . no higher than 1.4 EC in flower will allow them to stack & set the buds properlly .
but the main thing with GG4 is dialing in the nutes ! she needs a heavy feed with extra Mag in veg & then a lighter feed in flower otherwise you lock up the budset . i've seen it alot in some of the bud pics here . no higher than 1.4 EC in flower will allow them to stack & set the buds properlly .
The part where I note to start dropping all N sources toward end of cycle`s the part where ppm`s/EC is backed off to prevent nitrogen toxicity and to maintain 1.2-1.5 depending on cal/mag whores like Chem D in my situation , and it looks like GG4`s got that tendency as well till stretch is over...anyways....good call Dans....all should take notice .....
Peace....DHF.....
.....
The part where I note to start dropping all N sources toward end of cycle`s the part where ppm`s/EC is backed off to prevent nitrogen toxicity and to maintain 1.2-1.5 depending on cal/mag whores like Chem D in my situation , and it looks like GG4`s got that tendency as well till stretch is over...anyways....good call Dans....all should take notice .....
Peace....DHF.....
exactly !! she'll stretch for 3 weeks . so reach your peak by then & start to drop off after week 4 , especially if your adding a PK boost . which i don't . no need with my nutes .
I dont use any nutes at all in FFOF soil. It has everything it needs to bring it through till harvest. Sometimes the fans are still dark green at week 7, that even a really good 2 week leaching isnt enough to fade them properly. Soil w/ 0 nutes shouldnt need any leeching/flushing, but I give it a go anyways.
I always get the tastiest meds this way. Ive never had a better tasting GG#4 than my own.
I lowered the lamp on both sides DHnF. The S.O.G on week 2 and the bigger side on week 4.
Hopefully this will help stack better colas with the 6's. I have air-cooled glass hoods that pump the heat and smell outside. I'l get them as close to the canopy as possible without scorching or bleaching the tops.
The Sour Dubb#2 (EDIT: Sour Dubb #4) is stacking the best so far this grow, on the big side.
I usually leave the lamps around 20" from the canopy. They're now about 12".
Trimmin out the middles and larfy stuff is very important and I do that every grow.
Any side branches off the mains get snipped off if they are not getting full light.
This S.O.G Im doing is dif from the S.O.G with 3 -5 plants per 5gln pot.
This time its 1 plant per 3gln pot with a 4 week veg from clone. 20 plants.
Looks like its gonna be a nice full canopy.
I always get the tastiest meds this way. Ive never had a better tasting GG#4 than my own.
I lowered the lamp on both sides DHnF. The S.O.G on week 2 and the bigger side on week 4.
Hopefully this will help stack better colas with the 6's. I have air-cooled glass hoods that pump the heat and smell outside. I'l get them as close to the canopy as possible without scorching or bleaching the tops.
The Sour Dubb#2 (EDIT: Sour Dubb #4) is stacking the best so far this grow, on the big side.
I usually leave the lamps around 20" from the canopy. They're now about 12".
Trimmin out the middles and larfy stuff is very important and I do that every grow.
Any side branches off the mains get snipped off if they are not getting full light.
This S.O.G Im doing is dif from the S.O.G with 3 -5 plants per 5gln pot.
This time its 1 plant per 3gln pot with a 4 week veg from clone. 20 plants.
Looks like its gonna be a nice full canopy.
Well bro , if you`re in a water only setup , you get what you get without any control over nutrient availability at the proper times for optimal uptake and swellage during lights off from end of stretch till end of cycle....that said....
How do you even flush true organic water only to provide as close to natural plant senescence by end of cycle.....pretty sure you can`t , so how `s all the residual nitrogen left in the big fans as well as the rest of the plant gotten rid of.....
I read something 1 of the banned organic growru`s said that natural plant senescence wasn`t normal with organics and the yellowing off and chlorophyll degradation while still on the vine wasn`t anything that "helped" the finishing process , or maybe I misunderstood his holier than thou explanation of why his organic plants stayed deep green all the way to chop dry , and cure.......
I asked cuz it looked like it was obvious nitrogen toxicity/fixation , whatever the proper term may be , but the actual answer was never given due to his attitude n other threads getting him banned for the 4th or 5th time....anyways....
Can any of the organic guys answer why water only plants end up so green at the finish consistently , with no apparent difference in product that actually went through the leaching/dropping ppm`s/flushing medium process till chop for as low as possible EC/ppm measurements left over ?....things that make yas go hmm...
No offense to my dirt growin guys , just don`t understand the science behind organic deep green plants at Harvey , compared to knowing EXACTLY how many ppm`s were run through the plants till close to none before chop with coco and or other substrates....
Maybe I`m missin something....Again , no disrespect but hopefully a good explanation that makes sense in laymens terms....
Really trying to understand this no till water only thingy "for outside" since I own a farm with all the cowshit and compost needed to grow me couple plants , just wanted a simple mix to use water from my hose bib to keep em soaked down when need be....
Just don`t wanna grow no beaster ass green as a gourd , choker weed that no amount of dry and cure will help , so how bout a lil bit of help for an old fart guys....
...
Peace....DHF.........
How do you even flush true organic water only to provide as close to natural plant senescence by end of cycle.....pretty sure you can`t , so how `s all the residual nitrogen left in the big fans as well as the rest of the plant gotten rid of.....
I read something 1 of the banned organic growru`s said that natural plant senescence wasn`t normal with organics and the yellowing off and chlorophyll degradation while still on the vine wasn`t anything that "helped" the finishing process , or maybe I misunderstood his holier than thou explanation of why his organic plants stayed deep green all the way to chop dry , and cure.......
I asked cuz it looked like it was obvious nitrogen toxicity/fixation , whatever the proper term may be , but the actual answer was never given due to his attitude n other threads getting him banned for the 4th or 5th time....anyways....
Can any of the organic guys answer why water only plants end up so green at the finish consistently , with no apparent difference in product that actually went through the leaching/dropping ppm`s/flushing medium process till chop for as low as possible EC/ppm measurements left over ?....things that make yas go hmm...
No offense to my dirt growin guys , just don`t understand the science behind organic deep green plants at Harvey , compared to knowing EXACTLY how many ppm`s were run through the plants till close to none before chop with coco and or other substrates....
Maybe I`m missin something....Again , no disrespect but hopefully a good explanation that makes sense in laymens terms....
Really trying to understand this no till water only thingy "for outside" since I own a farm with all the cowshit and compost needed to grow me couple plants , just wanted a simple mix to use water from my hose bib to keep em soaked down when need be....
Just don`t wanna grow no beaster ass green as a gourd , choker weed that no amount of dry and cure will help , so how bout a lil bit of help for an old fart guys....
...Peace....DHF....
.....
greeenman707
Member
Just top once, and you will get spears
I basically just leech all the salts out of the medium that the plant left over from turning the soils nutrients into energy or whatever. Even if I didnt flush the GG#4, she still tastes great with no cure. But I like to fade them leaves atleast half way so I know it burns clean.
This is just the GG#4 Im talking about. Other strains/plants need nutrients in the FFOF soil. The GG#4 doesnt need much at all. Very light feeder.
I still ph balance the water to 6.3.
This is just the GG#4 Im talking about. Other strains/plants need nutrients in the FFOF soil. The GG#4 doesnt need much at all. Very light feeder.
I still ph balance the water to 6.3.
Daddysdank
Member
These are my glues at the start of wk 8 on that 12/12..I have 1200 watts of Hortilux hps in a 5X5 tent with 2 xxl hoof reflectors,I have 2 of these setups on 35 day rotations so I run perpetual,and I run tha glue around 67-68 days so it gives me a cpl days ta get tha tent,fan,lights,etc cleaned up and ready ta g for nxt run..but anyways here's some pics for ya..
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Daddysdank
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