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Golden Tiger

R

rüdiger

what are the issues homebrewer, other then being yellow and leafless?

what makes you think a green plant is better when it comes to final product?

i have grown single phenos of different strains to end: dark green, green, lime green, yellow green and almost total yellow.

what do you think is the best smoke?

btw, i can see burned leaf tips in some of your pictures, thats a straight sign of overfertilizing, isnt it?

:tiphat:
 

Homebrewer

Active member
Veteran
what are the issues homebrewer, other then being yellow and leafless?

what makes you think a green plant is better when it comes to final product?

i have grown single phenos of different strains to end: dark green, green, lime green, yellow green and almost total yellow.

what do you think is the best smoke?

btw, i can see burned leaf tips in some of your pictures, thats a straight sign of overfertilizing, isnt it?

:tiphat:

Healthy plants yield more, they're more resinous, they contain a more complete terpene profile, and they're more potent. Pick up any Plant Bio 101 book and see for yourself that chlorosis is not desirable.

Here is a good read: http://urbanext.illinois.edu/focus/index.cfm?problem=chlorosis
 

Elmer Bud

Genotype Sex Worker AKA strain whore
Veteran
G`day HB

I said it before and I`ll say it again .
We don`t smoke leaves !!

Growing sinsemilla is about flowers not leaves or seeds . Feed the flowers .

Hopefully Dubi will chime in and tell us his opinion of how his strains should be grown .

Your info is contrary to 99 % of growers . What makes you think you are the only one with the vision to understand the need for green leaves ?

You seem to be educated re fertilers do you have a stake in Nute companies ?

My information tells me the attraction charge of the roots changes when the plant goes into flower cycle . Less positive / negative pull to attract Nitrogen . So the plant is already limiting N on its own . Hardly uptaking it during flower . If you want to boost N . Foliar in pre flower is much more efficient .Than putting it to the roots which have little attraction to N during flower .
But as I don`t need extra leaves or stems I don`t bother .

Thanks for sharin

EB .
 
R

rüdiger

Homie,

I leave you alone now!

our sport differs and we dont play the same league;)

please grow a pure thai, just for the experience:tiphat:
 

Homebrewer

Active member
Veteran
G`day HB

I said it before and I`ll say it again .
We don`t smoke leaves !!

Growing sinsemilla is about flowers not leaves or seeds . Feed the flowers .

Hopefully Dubi will chime in and tell us his opinion of how his strains should be grown .

Your info is contrary to 99 % of growers . What makes you think you are the only one with the vision to understand the need for green leaves ?

You seem to be educated re fertilers do you have a stake in Nute companies ?

My information tells me the attraction charge of the roots changes when the plant goes into flower cycle . Less positive / negative pull to attract Nitrogen . So the plant is already limiting N on its own . Hardly uptaking it during flower . If you want to boost N . Foliar in pre flower is much more efficient .Than putting it to the roots which have little attraction to N during flower .
But as I don`t need extra leaves or stems I don`t bother .

Thanks for sharin

EB .

You've got it backwards. Your flowers are there because of your leaves. You do know what a leaf does, right? It's the site of photosynthesis. That's where these plants convert light energy into chemical energy. When you don't maintain healthy leaves, you're essentially handicapping your plant which absolutely affects the quality of the final product.

You posted a picture of a beautiful plant in post #457. I'm assuming that's not your plant since it's green and healthy at harvest and that seems to be what you're against. What I'm saying is that in terms of overall leaf health, that plant in that picture should be your goal.
 
S

scai

Err...there is a difference if you grow with chems and organics.
In organics plant can choose, with the help of microsherd what it needs and wants.
With chems, it cant. It has to take what you give.Chem bypass microherd and go straight to
plant.
It's like forcefeedeing goose.
You can forcefeed with N, but as others I don't recommend.

I believe Dubi doesn't want get mixed into this conversation.All what he can do is say how they do it. He doesn't want to cross anyone ;).

Has Homebrewer any pictures of Ace gear? ( sorry I need to look back where this started, but off to work now)
 

RandyCalifornia

Well endowed member
Veteran
Great Homebrewer, Panama is a good example. I have a hard time keeping her green all through flowering.
It seems like at some point in flowering, about 10 weeks in my pheno, the Panama starts turning yellow and never goes back no matter how much N you give her, she keeps yellowing and dropping leaves.
 
S

scai

Oukkay, Panama is very good one ;)
It has its ways to performe.
I trust that you give us good pictures? Cos you seem to have a good camera and just about enough enthusiastm to keep us posted ;).
 

Homebrewer

Active member
Veteran
Great Homebrewer, Panama is a good example. I have a hard time keeping her green all through flowering.
It seems like at some point in flowering, about 10 weeks in my pheno, the Panama starts turning yellow and never goes back no matter how much N you give her, she keeps yellowing and dropping leaves.

Thanks for the heads up! I know that you know your stuff so should I have success with them, I'll be sure to pass on any tips or observations I may have.

Much respect :tiphat:
 

RandyCalifornia

Well endowed member
Veteran
I notice the flavor and yield on long flowering Sativas(and Indicas too) is lacking on plants that loose their leaves too early in flowering and that's got to effect the high as well. They have a hollow, dry, chalky aftertaste that is as bad as the hot bite you get from over fertilizing them.
I think there is a happy medium where the plant has what it needs and does what it should and we end up with a full flavored well rounded high and pleasant smoke, all the while not pushing the plant beyond it's genetic capabilities.
It's what we all strive for, Dialing in a plant means keeping an open mind till you grow it out a few times and not being afraid to make some mistakes along the way to get it right.
 

kita

Member
Objective here is to have a sticky about Golden Tiger.Subjective views based on limited experience are partially helpful. Landrace Sativas can lose their leaves from climatic conditions. Also when maturing flowers. If an indoor grower's plants lose their leaves it can be from a multitude of reasons unrelated to why Sativas lose their leaves outdoors.
I take exception to statements made about leaf loss affecting taste generally. Best to examine your growing environment before making statements that seem to be limited to your experience. Most likely indoor.
I seem to remember Dubi saying that African Sativas can handle plenty of nitrogen then changing his mind when it came to Golden Tiger. Perhaps the Meao Thai influence could make Golden Tiger a bit fussy about nitrogen.
So one would need to examine the phenotype of their Golden Tiger and feed according to whether it's more Thai or Malawi.
However Dubi has already commented about this. Can we keep this a Golden Tiger thread please without all the photos of Dutch hybrids in all their DARK GREEN overfed glory?
 
R

rüdiger

'Can we keep this a Golden Tiger thread please without all the photos of Dutch hybrids in all their DARK GREEN overfed glory?'

well said:biggrin:
 
S

scai

Yep, this is a tread for Golden Tiger, that's why I'm waiting to see Homebrewers Panamas in Panama tread.
Let's keep threads clean ;)
 

Homebrewer

Active member
Veteran
Can we keep this a Golden Tiger thread please without all the photos of Dutch hybrids in all their DARK GREEN overfed glory?

Yes, because 'grow tips' that induce chlorosis and premature leaf-drop should have a place in every sticky ;).
 

paulo73

Convicted for turning dreams into reality
Veteran
Let´s all be civilized and very polite because i´m in a lot of pain and a quite sensitive mood today. Thank you very much to all.
My sativas indoors keep playing tricks on me, only my fault because i don´t have all the necessary time to understand them, but on a happier note the 2nd run with the GT is looking better than the first one.
I´ve been also trying to do a proper smoke test from the 1st run but i haven´t yet had the chance to finish it. Something always shows up and i totally forget about the smoke test/report. This said is some seriously strong herb with more head than body, it seems that serious munchies are to be expected afterwards but this needs confirmation yet.
My GTs are also showing a good resistance to pests if i can i´ll take some shots later on.

Just to finish i´ll add something that probably has been already said but there´s a world of difference in personal tastes and we can´t even compare a legal commercial operation where quantity vs quality vs profit is all that matters with a personal grow where personal taste/mind set are all that matters.
 

Elmer Bud

Genotype Sex Worker AKA strain whore
Veteran
G`day Paulo

I can confirm the Golden Tiger munchie effect .
1st sample I had . I almost went crazy from hunger . I was miles from the nearest food source . lol .
Its strong herb Paulo,different buzz to what I know . An enjoyable ride on a full stomach. he he .

Thanks for sharin

EB .
 

bmking

New member
Just another little weekly update. Now the "Thai-Tigers" are starting to flower more strongy. I still have space problems because they grew too close to the light, but now they nearly stopped the growth and concentrate on producing flowers (finally!!!)

I give them an EC of 0.5 to 0.7. From tap-water it has an EC of 0.3 and then as recommended by rudiger I give them up to 0.5 or 0.7 half from coco a+b and the other half PK13/14.
It works really good. The drain-water has an constant EC of 0.8, and normally I try to balance the EC such that the water feeded to the plants is equal to the drain, but in this case I guess it is ok.

In regard of all the posts, which I actually enjoy reading since I think it is important to be open to other constructive opinions, I just want to add that the point is not to totally stop feeding the plants any N and immediately let the leafs become yellow. It is a slow process which after months of flowering ends with having plants with yellow leafs.

Well, but here are the pictures (by the way, is it possible to have more space for attachments?):
 

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R

rüdiger

Thank you bmking!

Im happy my suggestion stopped her stretch and makes her start to concentrate towards flowering.
As you all can see in the pictures theres still many N stored in lower leaves.
In combination with the density of the canopy above, this leads to a bit of clawing induced by the lack of light.
On the other hand, as you also can see in the pictures, the part which is closest to the lights, recieves so much light and radiant heat, that yellowing of the leaves occours.

This yellowing is NOT induced by the 'N-lowered' nutrient solution.

Your drain ec of 0,8 is just a pinch too high, it indicates that the plant can not use all the salts that are delivered.


Yes, because 'grow tips' that induce chlorosis and premature leaf-drop should have a place in every sticky ;).

I dont know what is your intention to come here and mess around with me.
I try to do my best to analyse bmkings problem, so he can learn something from what happens during the grow.

I can not see one helpful suggestion for him coming from your side.
All you did and do is showing your overfed Hybrids and make hidden advertisements for dyna grow.:spank:

This is not a sticky about indica influenced hybrids. No, its about Golden Tiger, wich is a hybrid that so far i understood, is from two pure sativa lines.

Its seems that you have no experience with growing pure sativas.

better go home, homebrewer:thank you:

you are mere propaganda
 
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Elmer Bud

Genotype Sex Worker AKA strain whore
Veteran
G`day BMKING

A first rate backcross (Jamaica x Jamaica/NL5/Haze) between our best female from the Blue Mountains in Jamaica and a champion NL/Haze bring us a great yielding sativa that can be grown indoors. Yield and quality are complemented by its resistancy to plagues, especially those brought about by humid climates.

Time seems to stop as the senses sharpen, this sativa hybrid is a gem sativa lovers love to own.

Shortening the light period incrementally from 12 to 8 hours in the last 2 weeks is best to augment resin production and to avoid typical sativa reflowering.

Vegetative period: Minimum 30 days for high performance.

That quote is from Charlie G . Describing his Caribe hybrid .Jamaican x Jamaican / NL Hz .
Even with the smidge of NL he`s still recommending shorten the light hours .

Being that your GT is showing as an extreme Sat pheno . The light and feed regimes are now better tailored for your pheno .

Oh and better stock the pantry in prep for harvest . Golden Tiger can induce extreme munchies in even hardened smokers .
My 1st sample I was a long way from food . And the hunger pains got crazy !

Thanks for sharin

EB .
 
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