SweetIndica2
Member
If the guywith the gelato clones is here im wearing a green sack on my back and a black cap with red exclamation point lol
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Gene Traders Ludlow Mass Sunday Jan 14th
- Thread starter Chunkypigs
- Start date
SweetIndica2
Member
Grest event met someone really cool and got some nice clones and seeds. Will post more info later.
Facelesdoll
Active member
Where are these events? Haven't been around in a few years on here.... Would love some info on the next shows. Southshore here
AgentPothead
Just this guy, ya know?
I'm pretty sure they announce them on their instagram or one of those social media platforms.
SweetIndica2
Member
This one was in Plymouth (my town), which is obviously in/close to the south shore. The funny thing is, is that it was held at the John Alden club which my dad was a member of for 20+ years and i use to go there a lot as a kid when they held halloween/christmas parties.
The only other one that was somewhat close was the one they held last year i think? which was in East Freetown (about 35 minutes from me). The other ones have been in Springfield, Worcester, Western Mass, Connecticut, etc. which are all 2-3+ hours from me which is just too far for me right now.
I hope they do some more around the south shore area because i love the events and have a great time, but like i said i can't travel 2-3 hours to get to one right now.
Like AgentPothead said, they announce them on their instagram page and they seem to have an event about every 3 months or so? I almost missed this one because no one posted about it in here so i assumed their wasn't anything going on. It wasn't until i went to buy something from the guys at Plymouth County Growers like 5 days before the event and they told me about it. So i'm gonna make sure to keep an eye out this time and make a post about it in this thread when it's announced.
AgentPothead
Just this guy, ya know?
Not I said the stoned guy. And I only went to 1 Robney, but strawberry cough doesn't ring a bell, sorry.
SweetIndica2
Member
I've only been to two of the events (East Freetown and Plymouth), but i haven't seen any SC at either of the events if we're talking about clones. There are usually a ton of seeds being sold, so i'm sure you could find a cross or something in seed form, but i'm assuming you mean the clone form?
I noticed that the "older" elite cuts are getting rarer, probably because there are so many new "Strains of the week". Even stuff that isn't that old like SFV OG, Bubba, PK, Urkle, Green Crack, Triangle Kush/The White, Strawberry Cough, Aloha WW, etc. etc. i haven't seen around in clone form in awhile. In cali i'm sure you could find them relatively easy but i'm generally just constantly seeing more new strains/crosses mainly.
GSC and GSC Crosses seem to be fucking everywhere lol. I mean, i like some of them, but i'd like to see some more unique strains/crosses being made.
SweetIndica2
Member
My outdoor plants are doing alright, but i keep noticing small buds here and there that are rotting and are like a purplish brown color. I'm assuming it's budrot or some other type of fungus, but i can't seem to get rid of it.
I have been using a mixture spray of water, neem oil (dyna gro 100% Pure), Silica (Armor Si) and a little but of dawn dish soap for an emulsifier but i still keep seeing rotten buds here and there.
Is there something else i should use? Besides what i listed up there, I also have Hydrogen Peroxide (3%), Baking Soda, Rubbing Alcohol, Hot Peppers (Thai and Cayenne), Mineral/Vegetable/Olive Oil, Vinegar, some FFOF and Happy Frog left which has some beneficial microbes, and i also have a compost tea mixture i can make with EWC, Fish Fertilizer, Unsulphured Blackstrap Molasses and water which i know has microbial life. I can buy something specific if it will work, but preferably under $30.
Potassium Bicarbonate is cheap, but some people have said it doesn't work that well and is useless if you already have bud rot, so i'm at a loss here.
I know there are also systemics, but i know most of them are pretty nasty toxic stuff, but i know some people on here use them, though there are so many different kinds.
Caterpillar don't seem to be phased by the neem spray though since the weather has gotten colder i haven't seen many around,
P.S. I also have something going on with the leaves on my biggest outdoor plant. I took pictures and will upload them so hopefully someone can tell me what is causing it. It looks like rusty colored on the tips but also on the sides on the serrated edges as well as some spots on the middle of the leaves themselves.
I have been using a mixture spray of water, neem oil (dyna gro 100% Pure), Silica (Armor Si) and a little but of dawn dish soap for an emulsifier but i still keep seeing rotten buds here and there.
Is there something else i should use? Besides what i listed up there, I also have Hydrogen Peroxide (3%), Baking Soda, Rubbing Alcohol, Hot Peppers (Thai and Cayenne), Mineral/Vegetable/Olive Oil, Vinegar, some FFOF and Happy Frog left which has some beneficial microbes, and i also have a compost tea mixture i can make with EWC, Fish Fertilizer, Unsulphured Blackstrap Molasses and water which i know has microbial life. I can buy something specific if it will work, but preferably under $30.
Potassium Bicarbonate is cheap, but some people have said it doesn't work that well and is useless if you already have bud rot, so i'm at a loss here.
I know there are also systemics, but i know most of them are pretty nasty toxic stuff, but i know some people on here use them, though there are so many different kinds.
Caterpillar don't seem to be phased by the neem spray though since the weather has gotten colder i haven't seen many around,
P.S. I also have something going on with the leaves on my biggest outdoor plant. I took pictures and will upload them so hopefully someone can tell me what is causing it. It looks like rusty colored on the tips but also on the sides on the serrated edges as well as some spots on the middle of the leaves themselves.
OG_NoMan
Not Veteran
You are way too late with the neem as you will now have neem in your finished product. The spots of bud rott are most likely caused by dead debris sitting on or in the bud. Greencure should take care of your PM on the leaves. Good luck and chalk it up to a learning experience
NoSativaction
Member
Soap is a surfactant, not emulsifier. A surfactant reduces surface tension in a liquid. When using soap to treat cannabis, use castille soap rather than a harsher soap like dawn. Dawn is a degreaser, don't want it contacting sticky buds IMO, it's way too harsh and strips oils. I use liquid hemp castille soap.
At this point in the season, I say your best bets are on H202, buttermilk, and yard cleanup. Get all dead/dying yard debris cleaned up as soon as it collects or you will have constant airborne fungus spores. Buttermilk changes leaf surface PH and prevents fungus/mold from spreading. H202 kills fungus spores on contact.
Clean yard, kill spores with H202 spray, treat with buttermilk to prevent spread. None of those things should afffect bud quality.
At this point in the season, I say your best bets are on H202, buttermilk, and yard cleanup. Get all dead/dying yard debris cleaned up as soon as it collects or you will have constant airborne fungus spores. Buttermilk changes leaf surface PH and prevents fungus/mold from spreading. H202 kills fungus spores on contact.
Clean yard, kill spores with H202 spray, treat with buttermilk to prevent spread. None of those things should afffect bud quality.
SweetIndica2
Member
Ok, thanks a lot for the info. I get so many different opinions from people, so i end up screwing up if i take the wrong persons opinion. For example, tons of people recommended neem and even told me it is fine to use during flowering, but then i read an article the other day which said the same thing you guy did, which is that it should not be used in flowering.
I have H202 and want to spray them ASAP so what mixture/recipe do i use? Do i use plain H202 or do i mix the buttermilk and/or castile soap with it? I know people use regular milk sometimes, but does buttermilk work better? And do i only spray the h202 or do i do a root drench with it as well? because i've seen some people do that.
My yard is already pretty clean and the plants are on skids/pallets so they aren't touching the ground. You are both right about dead plant material probably causing it because usually when i find pieces that have rot, there is usually a dead/decaying leave on it or touching it. I've tried defoliating as best as i can but i will do some more tomorrow.
And any ideas on why the leaves look like that?
P.S. i've been only feeding the outdoor plants a low dose of Armor Si (Silica), like 1/4 teaspoon per gallon. Will increasing it to near full or full strength help protect the plant?
I'm also trying to make a good feeding chart for this period in the grow. I made one but i think it needs to be adjusted. If someone could maybe recommend exactly how much of each of the nutrients i should use, i would greatly appreciate it.
The Nutrients i use are GH FloraBloom, GH FloraMicro, GH Liquid KoolBloom, GH Armor Si, GH CAliMAGic, Unsulphured Blackstrap Molasses, Epsom Salt (which i have been using mainly because i have hard tap water and don't need any more calcium. I use to use GH Diamond Nectar and GH Floralicious Plus but i've been pretty shot on money and they are expensive. The diamond nectar uses 3 tsp per gallon and i use like 20-25 gallons to feed all of my outdoor plants so i'd be going through it way too fast and it would get pricey quick. Are those additives even needed? If not are there other additives/nutrients i should add to my regimen instead?
I am hoping to grab some GH Dry KoolBloom, but it might already be too late to start using it and it's like $30 a bag which is worth it because it's 2.2 lbs but like i said i'm pretty broke.
I also have a tiny bit of Alaska Fish Fertilizer, but probably not even enough for one watering. I got some EWC's for free from a nice lady at the Gene Traders event (2 cups) so i made a "brew" for my biggest plant using 1 cup EWC, 1 Gallon of Water, 1 Tbsp of Fish Fertilizer and 1 Tbsp of Unsulphured Blackstrap Molasses. It said to mix vigorously, then let sit for an hour, stir again and feed it to your plants, which is what i did. I know it's not the same as using an actual brewer but i figured it might help some still.
I also have some FFOF and FF Happy Frog left and i was wondering if maybe i should put a layer on top of the soil to give it another little boost since the FFOF has tons of good organic stuff in it and the Happy Frog has organic nutrients plus a bunch of beneficial microbes/bacteria.
SOrry for ranting, i just want to figure this all out ASAP so i can maximize the quality and yield and not lose too much bud to budrot.
And should i use the Armor Si (Silica) in any of those spray mixtures or should i just use it for feeding?
Thanks!
I have H202 and want to spray them ASAP so what mixture/recipe do i use? Do i use plain H202 or do i mix the buttermilk and/or castile soap with it? I know people use regular milk sometimes, but does buttermilk work better? And do i only spray the h202 or do i do a root drench with it as well? because i've seen some people do that.
My yard is already pretty clean and the plants are on skids/pallets so they aren't touching the ground. You are both right about dead plant material probably causing it because usually when i find pieces that have rot, there is usually a dead/decaying leave on it or touching it. I've tried defoliating as best as i can but i will do some more tomorrow.
And any ideas on why the leaves look like that?
P.S. i've been only feeding the outdoor plants a low dose of Armor Si (Silica), like 1/4 teaspoon per gallon. Will increasing it to near full or full strength help protect the plant?
I'm also trying to make a good feeding chart for this period in the grow. I made one but i think it needs to be adjusted. If someone could maybe recommend exactly how much of each of the nutrients i should use, i would greatly appreciate it.
The Nutrients i use are GH FloraBloom, GH FloraMicro, GH Liquid KoolBloom, GH Armor Si, GH CAliMAGic, Unsulphured Blackstrap Molasses, Epsom Salt (which i have been using mainly because i have hard tap water and don't need any more calcium. I use to use GH Diamond Nectar and GH Floralicious Plus but i've been pretty shot on money and they are expensive. The diamond nectar uses 3 tsp per gallon and i use like 20-25 gallons to feed all of my outdoor plants so i'd be going through it way too fast and it would get pricey quick. Are those additives even needed? If not are there other additives/nutrients i should add to my regimen instead?
I am hoping to grab some GH Dry KoolBloom, but it might already be too late to start using it and it's like $30 a bag which is worth it because it's 2.2 lbs but like i said i'm pretty broke.
I also have a tiny bit of Alaska Fish Fertilizer, but probably not even enough for one watering. I got some EWC's for free from a nice lady at the Gene Traders event (2 cups) so i made a "brew" for my biggest plant using 1 cup EWC, 1 Gallon of Water, 1 Tbsp of Fish Fertilizer and 1 Tbsp of Unsulphured Blackstrap Molasses. It said to mix vigorously, then let sit for an hour, stir again and feed it to your plants, which is what i did. I know it's not the same as using an actual brewer but i figured it might help some still.
I also have some FFOF and FF Happy Frog left and i was wondering if maybe i should put a layer on top of the soil to give it another little boost since the FFOF has tons of good organic stuff in it and the Happy Frog has organic nutrients plus a bunch of beneficial microbes/bacteria.
SOrry for ranting, i just want to figure this all out ASAP so i can maximize the quality and yield and not lose too much bud to budrot.
And should i use the Armor Si (Silica) in any of those spray mixtures or should i just use it for feeding?
Thanks!
bud rot happens this time of year, there's really nothing you are going to do now to fix it besides defoliate.
feeding your OD plants hydro nutes is why your leaves look like shit and also maybe why you are broke, lol.
take some good pictures of the sick plants, a little budrot is no biggie on dense plants, just cut it off when you see it.
a little PM is no biggie either if its just on older fan leaves and not forming on the colas.
I find these every day, budrot on cookies.
it's just one budsite out of many tho so you need to see the big picture and let the plant ripen knowing you might lose a few of the hundreds on the plant.
what I can do this late in the season is carefully remove more leaves to improve ventilation, stake the plants to open them up more and let in more sun and air, inspect daily and cut if things start to go exponential.
I have not sprayed my plants with anything, no need to if you are growing in healthy organic soil.
bugs happen, they eat a little then get eaten, don't panic, share.
feed your soil next year not your plants.
SweetIndica2
Member
Ok. Yeah i noticed i didn't seem to see a difference in the amount of budrot when using neem/silica vs. not spraying it so i was wondering if there was even a point to it.
The pieces of budrot look exactly like that picture and yeah, it's mostly one or two small pieces every day or two and when i think about it, i haven't really lost much from budrot. Maybe i'll lose like a half oz when it's all said and done but that's nothing. Powdery Mildew is almost non existent on my plant. I maybe have seen three to four small spots on leaves like you said, but that's it.
What's the problem with GH Flora nutes? Yeah, they are synthetic but they work and many people use them. I do try and use organic stuff when i can, like EWC's, Mykos, Alaska Fish Fertilizer, Molasses, Floralicious plus is mostly organic (kelp, humic acid, etc.). I also used some stuff i got from a guy on here called Heavy 313 which was powdered molasses and fulvic acids i believe.
The twobig ones are in 45 Gallon fabric Pots, the 3rd big one is in a 30 gallon fabric pot and the 5 former mothers i had issues with are flowering outdoors in 7-10 Gallon Pots. I also only use Fox Farm Ocean Forest and Happy Frog (2:1 Ratio of FFOF to FFHF) plus a litle Roots Organics Aurora Chunky Perlite (i don't add much because i find OF and HP both are already fairly light, especially the HF and they have quite a bit of perlite already). Other than that i used a little bit of dolomite lime, Coast of Maine EWC's and a little bit or mykos i had left.
I didn't even feed them up until flowering or so because the nutrients in the soil lasted for 30-45 days.
Why do you say i'm probably broke because of the Hydro nutrients? Just wondering because the Flora Series is simple and cheap and you really only need the bloom, micro and then maybe koolbloom as a bud booster in flowering. Molasses ($3) and Epsom salt ($1 per pound) are cheap and helpful and basically that's what i use. The silica as a nutrient and as a foliar spray seems to make the plant a little more resilient, but that stuff is pretty cheap and not a must have.
The Soil is what killed me financially right now to be honest lol. Just the soil for the outdoor grow (not including the soil i bought for my tomatoes, hot peppers, bell peppers) was just shy of $300 w/ tax. I had to buy 13 bags (22.5 cu ft) of soil (it would of been over 16 bags if i used just FFOF and no HF). I've had to buy another 13+ cu ft over the past so many months between my two recent indoor grows and for my mothers too. Gets expensive. Plus i had to upgrade several important items in my indoor grow, get some new clones and seeds from gene traders. Things like cloning equipment, rapid rooters, cloning gel, rubber gloves, scrog netting, bamboo stakes, fabric and plastic pots, trimming trays/scissors/drying racks, buckets/totes to store nutrients/mix soil, neem oil and other fungicides/pesticide, curing jars, duct tubing/clamps, etc. which i've all bought recently add up quick too.
I'm liking outdoor better because the plants are humungous and you don't need to worry about all the expensive equipment and systems you have to buy for a good indoor grow.
Stuff like nutrients have definitely cost me quite a bit as well, so you do have a point. Those outdoor plants need a ton of nutrient mixture when i feed them (25-30+ gallons for all the outdoor plants). So i go through nutrients quite fast. The flora gallons are cheap but the additives are a killer money wise which is why i stopped using them.
So are you thinking nute burn as far as the leaves go? And what nutes would you use and recommend instead of the GH stuff? I could use the help as this is basically my first outdoor grow. I had a nice stocky dwarf looking plant outdoors last year but because of the constant rain and humidity it was almost totally rotted by like only 45 days into flowering. This year i used seeds for outdoors.
They are all cookies related as well. They are feminized seeds i got from a friend on here that is a cross of SFV OG x Blue Cookies. The plants are massive, with the pots they are well over 8 feet tall and i need a ladder to get to the tops. I topped them each like 6-7 times so they are really bushy too. I've been defoliating recently but even still the plants are almost as wide as they are tall, in veg i measure the biggest one at 7.5 feet wide and the plant itself (so from the stem to the highest tops) is atleast 7 feet tall and had 30+ good size colas.
But sorry for rambling, but yeah i could definitely use your advice because i want to grow these are healthy and as good as possible. Next year i am going to build frames around them and move to 65 gallon pots and put two layers of scrog for support and bigger yield but i didn't plan any of that out this year like an idiot lol.
The pieces of budrot look exactly like that picture and yeah, it's mostly one or two small pieces every day or two and when i think about it, i haven't really lost much from budrot. Maybe i'll lose like a half oz when it's all said and done but that's nothing. Powdery Mildew is almost non existent on my plant. I maybe have seen three to four small spots on leaves like you said, but that's it.
What's the problem with GH Flora nutes? Yeah, they are synthetic but they work and many people use them. I do try and use organic stuff when i can, like EWC's, Mykos, Alaska Fish Fertilizer, Molasses, Floralicious plus is mostly organic (kelp, humic acid, etc.). I also used some stuff i got from a guy on here called Heavy 313 which was powdered molasses and fulvic acids i believe.
The twobig ones are in 45 Gallon fabric Pots, the 3rd big one is in a 30 gallon fabric pot and the 5 former mothers i had issues with are flowering outdoors in 7-10 Gallon Pots. I also only use Fox Farm Ocean Forest and Happy Frog (2:1 Ratio of FFOF to FFHF) plus a litle Roots Organics Aurora Chunky Perlite (i don't add much because i find OF and HP both are already fairly light, especially the HF and they have quite a bit of perlite already). Other than that i used a little bit of dolomite lime, Coast of Maine EWC's and a little bit or mykos i had left.
I didn't even feed them up until flowering or so because the nutrients in the soil lasted for 30-45 days.
Why do you say i'm probably broke because of the Hydro nutrients? Just wondering because the Flora Series is simple and cheap and you really only need the bloom, micro and then maybe koolbloom as a bud booster in flowering. Molasses ($3) and Epsom salt ($1 per pound) are cheap and helpful and basically that's what i use. The silica as a nutrient and as a foliar spray seems to make the plant a little more resilient, but that stuff is pretty cheap and not a must have.
The Soil is what killed me financially right now to be honest lol. Just the soil for the outdoor grow (not including the soil i bought for my tomatoes, hot peppers, bell peppers) was just shy of $300 w/ tax. I had to buy 13 bags (22.5 cu ft) of soil (it would of been over 16 bags if i used just FFOF and no HF). I've had to buy another 13+ cu ft over the past so many months between my two recent indoor grows and for my mothers too. Gets expensive. Plus i had to upgrade several important items in my indoor grow, get some new clones and seeds from gene traders. Things like cloning equipment, rapid rooters, cloning gel, rubber gloves, scrog netting, bamboo stakes, fabric and plastic pots, trimming trays/scissors/drying racks, buckets/totes to store nutrients/mix soil, neem oil and other fungicides/pesticide, curing jars, duct tubing/clamps, etc. which i've all bought recently add up quick too.
I'm liking outdoor better because the plants are humungous and you don't need to worry about all the expensive equipment and systems you have to buy for a good indoor grow.
Stuff like nutrients have definitely cost me quite a bit as well, so you do have a point. Those outdoor plants need a ton of nutrient mixture when i feed them (25-30+ gallons for all the outdoor plants). So i go through nutrients quite fast. The flora gallons are cheap but the additives are a killer money wise which is why i stopped using them.
So are you thinking nute burn as far as the leaves go? And what nutes would you use and recommend instead of the GH stuff? I could use the help as this is basically my first outdoor grow. I had a nice stocky dwarf looking plant outdoors last year but because of the constant rain and humidity it was almost totally rotted by like only 45 days into flowering. This year i used seeds for outdoors.
They are all cookies related as well. They are feminized seeds i got from a friend on here that is a cross of SFV OG x Blue Cookies. The plants are massive, with the pots they are well over 8 feet tall and i need a ladder to get to the tops. I topped them each like 6-7 times so they are really bushy too. I've been defoliating recently but even still the plants are almost as wide as they are tall, in veg i measure the biggest one at 7.5 feet wide and the plant itself (so from the stem to the highest tops) is atleast 7 feet tall and had 30+ good size colas.
But sorry for rambling, but yeah i could definitely use your advice because i want to grow these are healthy and as good as possible. Next year i am going to build frames around them and move to 65 gallon pots and put two layers of scrog for support and bigger yield but i didn't plan any of that out this year like an idiot lol.
Are you using the GH every time you water?
The thing about a good soil is- you shouldn't have to apply fertilizer more than once or twice during the entire life of a plant. And that's what CP means here- GH does have what a plant needs but you need to feed your soil.
Organic implies that nutrition is derived from what you have in the ground. Top dressing, blending in various meals, allowing things that were once alive to decay and release their nutritional, elemental values back into the earth, right?
Hydroponic implies that the nutrition is derived from elements dissolved/spread by watering. You can apply these to soil but how do you know to what degree? Your soil already has some fraction of each element- so using GH (even by label rates) on top of (unknown percentages already in soil) is probably causing some instability.
No matter if your nutrition is derived organically or hydroponically, each element must undergo mineralization. Either through digestion by microbes in the soil or by chemically becoming a salt of itself. Minerals are what are taken up by the plant. The balance of all salts and minerals in your soil are quite important to what your plant will be able to do with its surroundings.
IMO, your calcium was lacking many weeks ago and I don't suspect this close to harvest you'll be able to change that. Your low calcium allowed your epsom salts to take up residence where potassium should reside in the soil. It's a cascade effect. The three are usually vying for the same sites in your soil. Magnesium has a larger hydrated ionic radius and hence occupies sites in the soil quicker than the other two can. That's why you're still green for the most part, but your tips and edges are lacking (potassium). Next year get plenty of calcium in there and it will hopefully hold Mg at bay and allow potassium to do its thing well into flowering.
Bottle nutes are in general just way more expensive than starting with a good soil or working out a good recipe with mineral salts. Salts are cheaper and a good soil will last you years with little cost in the way of amendment if you know how to read it.
The thing about a good soil is- you shouldn't have to apply fertilizer more than once or twice during the entire life of a plant. And that's what CP means here- GH does have what a plant needs but you need to feed your soil.
Organic implies that nutrition is derived from what you have in the ground. Top dressing, blending in various meals, allowing things that were once alive to decay and release their nutritional, elemental values back into the earth, right?
Hydroponic implies that the nutrition is derived from elements dissolved/spread by watering. You can apply these to soil but how do you know to what degree? Your soil already has some fraction of each element- so using GH (even by label rates) on top of (unknown percentages already in soil) is probably causing some instability.
No matter if your nutrition is derived organically or hydroponically, each element must undergo mineralization. Either through digestion by microbes in the soil or by chemically becoming a salt of itself. Minerals are what are taken up by the plant. The balance of all salts and minerals in your soil are quite important to what your plant will be able to do with its surroundings.
IMO, your calcium was lacking many weeks ago and I don't suspect this close to harvest you'll be able to change that. Your low calcium allowed your epsom salts to take up residence where potassium should reside in the soil. It's a cascade effect. The three are usually vying for the same sites in your soil. Magnesium has a larger hydrated ionic radius and hence occupies sites in the soil quicker than the other two can. That's why you're still green for the most part, but your tips and edges are lacking (potassium). Next year get plenty of calcium in there and it will hopefully hold Mg at bay and allow potassium to do its thing well into flowering.
Bottle nutes are in general just way more expensive than starting with a good soil or working out a good recipe with mineral salts. Salts are cheaper and a good soil will last you years with little cost in the way of amendment if you know how to read it.
SweetIndica2
Member
Ok, i know a lot of people have said when using FFOF or other good soils that synthetic bottled nutes gave them bigger yields than when they used organic. Of course, like the other 50% of people in the thread said not to used synthetic bottled nutes. I notice when it comes to anything growing related everyone has different opinions and it's kind of annoying because i feel like i have to go with one or the other opinion and clearly i've screwed up.
They have been in 45 gallon containers with 2/3 FFOF and 1/3 Happy Frog plus some Chunky Perlite since i put them outdoors the end of may and i've been feeding them the GH nutes every watering because i figured after 30-40 days, the nutes in the FF soil are pretty much depleted. Indoors, i can transplant right before flowering but either way it sounds like your obviously saying i need to switch to organic stuff instead. I know some stuff about compost teas/brews, top dressing with EWC, etc. but not a whole lot.
So what would you suggest i do for nutes in a situation where like i said i plant them in 45 gallon pots outdoors and just use that soil for the entire grow? I don't know exactly what you mean by mineral salts or recipes, if you could elaborate further i would greatly appreciate it. If it's cheaper than bottled nutes, then that is a bonus too. I'm assuming i don't need to top dress or use the organic stuff as often?
I have been giving them calmag because according to my dad who used to live in this house, the well water is very hard so i assumed it would already have plenty of calcium in it. I'm assuming i can get it tested somehow, but would a better option be to get an R/O system?
I have KoolBloom for the end of flowering, which has already begun and i want to make sure i give them a boost of P-K, but if i'm getting nutrient lockout it's going to probably give me the opposite effect that i want, which is bigger buds.
So they need to be watered soon, what would you do for the rest of flowering if you only had the following stuff available on hand:
GH flora bloom, GH flora micro, GH flora gro, GH liquid koolbloom, GH calimagic, GH armor si, a little bit of Alaska fish fertilizer, 1 cup of EWC and unsulphured blackstrap molasses? Oh, and i have a 1.5 cubic foot bag of FFOF and a little over 1 cubic foot of Happy Frog. I have some space to add more fresh soil to the pots if that is a good idea.
I do have some money so if there is something you would recommend i have a grow shop (plymouth county growers who sponsor the gene traders events) less than a mile from my dad's house which i will be going to tomorrow and amazon delivers stuff to me in 1-2 days so that is an option too. I am somewhat limited on cash, but i can spend some on useful nutrients/organic products to help my outdoor plants finish well.
I really appreciate the help. Thanks
They have been in 45 gallon containers with 2/3 FFOF and 1/3 Happy Frog plus some Chunky Perlite since i put them outdoors the end of may and i've been feeding them the GH nutes every watering because i figured after 30-40 days, the nutes in the FF soil are pretty much depleted. Indoors, i can transplant right before flowering but either way it sounds like your obviously saying i need to switch to organic stuff instead. I know some stuff about compost teas/brews, top dressing with EWC, etc. but not a whole lot.
So what would you suggest i do for nutes in a situation where like i said i plant them in 45 gallon pots outdoors and just use that soil for the entire grow? I don't know exactly what you mean by mineral salts or recipes, if you could elaborate further i would greatly appreciate it. If it's cheaper than bottled nutes, then that is a bonus too. I'm assuming i don't need to top dress or use the organic stuff as often?
I have been giving them calmag because according to my dad who used to live in this house, the well water is very hard so i assumed it would already have plenty of calcium in it. I'm assuming i can get it tested somehow, but would a better option be to get an R/O system?
I have KoolBloom for the end of flowering, which has already begun and i want to make sure i give them a boost of P-K, but if i'm getting nutrient lockout it's going to probably give me the opposite effect that i want, which is bigger buds.
So they need to be watered soon, what would you do for the rest of flowering if you only had the following stuff available on hand:
GH flora bloom, GH flora micro, GH flora gro, GH liquid koolbloom, GH calimagic, GH armor si, a little bit of Alaska fish fertilizer, 1 cup of EWC and unsulphured blackstrap molasses? Oh, and i have a 1.5 cubic foot bag of FFOF and a little over 1 cubic foot of Happy Frog. I have some space to add more fresh soil to the pots if that is a good idea.
I do have some money so if there is something you would recommend i have a grow shop (plymouth county growers who sponsor the gene traders events) less than a mile from my dad's house which i will be going to tomorrow and amazon delivers stuff to me in 1-2 days so that is an option too. I am somewhat limited on cash, but i can spend some on useful nutrients/organic products to help my outdoor plants finish well.
I really appreciate the help. Thanks
you are not likely to improve things OD at this point in the seaason by throwing synthetic nutes on them.
no one can say without seeing good pictures of the plants first so why not start there tomorrow and if they need water give them water, plain, not too much.
AgentPothead
Just this guy, ya know?
What up marm! I feel like there pics in that post? but I don't see them.
