green thumbs
Member
Is that the flo?
Damn it! Between your ladies and what a friend of mine out Mendo way just pulled from his PITA light dep....
I'm gonna put my husband's head to engineering something for me. I've just gotta.
How are you liking the cooler weather, and more importantly, how are the ladies? Mine don't mind, but the beans, peppers and such that like it hot will stall on me if it stays like this for too long. I'll have to get row covers or something.
The D looks superb, what a week will do huh? Save me a nugger~
Nice plant, why did you pull the bird netting on?
How'd you two like Saturday night's rock & roll show in the sky?
PETRICHOR!
PS,
On pruning. I almost want to tell you all not to even do it. Build a plant from down low, wide soil, wide space, wide plant. Also, weighing down branches with foliar feedings and rinsing will handily accomplish the desired result. Clarke was right imo, leave it alone.
I've delved deeply into this in practice and I assure you time is much better spent elsewhere for the most part. It is OK to prune to an open center (topping at less than 10 nodes) during an indoor grow with a small plant but doing this with this type of grow is an unnecessary risk imo. With the open center, mega forces are working towards breaking large percentages of your stalk (and plant) away,, all really to zero advantage.
The other thing I am seeing lots of is terrible actual pruning cut location. Never ever leave even one centimeter of stem protruding from a pruning cut to sit there and rot, wasting much energy on a battle that was lost before we started. Always prune to cut right against a node up tight as an arborist does, and always in the morning and on a sunny day. This heals much faster and is much preferred. Don't be scared, get right up in there and cut it tight, see how beautifully/quickly it heals and knuckles-up. The node knows exactly what to do with a pruning cut - but the middle of a stem hasn't a clue. -T