Gavita-Pro 1000w 400v (new generation hps)

[madalasatori]

I'm sorry if this sounds stupid but can someone please answer the following questions. I am looking to buy 4x600w lights to go over 4X large plants scrogged, 1 plant per square metre.

What advantages are there in buying the Gavitas lights over normal 600w lights? Will I yield more (all things being equal).

If I will yield more, can someone please explain in laymans terms why?

Am I right in thinking that these bulbs are meant to be hung higher than normal 600w lights from the plants?

Do they run cooler than normal 600w HPS?

FInally - do I use the same bulb for veg and flower?

Thanks kindly

 

[krustallos]

Hey guys, don't have the time ATM to read through 30 pages.

I was wondering if anyone grew with these in a commercial setting? Like 20k + of Gavita lights only.

If so, please PM me. I have some questions.

Thanks

 

[Bigj15971597]

Gavitas work great. Mix them with some 300 Kissel led and manic happens.

 

[noyd666]

I'm sorry if this sounds stupid but can someone please answer the following questions. I am looking to buy 4x600w lights to go over 4X large plants scrogged, 1 plant per square metre.

What advantages are there in buying the Gavitas lights over normal 600w lights? Will I yield more (all things being equal).

If I will yield more, can someone please explain in laymans terms why?

Am I right in thinking that these bulbs are meant to be hung higher than normal 600w lights from the plants?

Do they run cooler than normal 600w HPS?

FInally - do I use the same bulb for veg and flower?

Thanks kindly

hi,
distance= 600 watt, I kept to 24 inches, 28'' when I started.
I love the shade can work under it hat on no banging and dodging, heat gets away and spreads out. top of shade gets hot, not real bad, ballast is excellent. no noise, i'm thinking of throwing every other light ballast setup I have down the dump. once you have one of these set ups every thing else seems very hum drum.
yes same bulb. the light spread is just filling my room the shade is really good. there pricy down here but worth it in my book. DON'T FORGET WEAR YA GLASSES. must get a light meter, madalasatori mines over a 4 footx 5 foot area and seems to cover it well.

 

[noyd666]

gavita is good,

 

[FatherEarth]

anyone got some gavita bud shots?

 

[noyd666]

third coast has some nice ones , look at knights of round table.

 

[FatherEarth]

So after actually reading the thread, LOL I have an idea of how this light is going to work. Funny how reading before posting is so much more effective than blind posting. Actually got tired of people asking the same questions over and over, as Im sure whazzup is feeling as well. Thanks for your expertise and patience in handling the redundant questions.

So from what I gather, with the light foot print being a butterfly like, it would seem best to alternate the fixture positioning so that each fixture will address the neighbors gap in light print. I sketched up an example. Please forgive the crude nature of the sketch as I used what I could grab on my desk, that being a clothespin and a condiment cup of hash to use as guides.

This sketch does not consider any distances or anything else just a layout based on shape of the light print. There will obviously be more overlap as the footprint is not quite accurate...

circles are light the squares fixtures:

 

[whazzup]

General rules of thumb:

- one 1000W per 2 m2
- one 600W per 1 m2
- use in rows, usually in the length, center lamps 90 cm apart, rows 1.2-2m apart
- observe 3' distance from 1000W, 2' from 600W
- distance to wall less than half you use between the rows to compensate wall losses
- 4000 btu per 1000W
- change lamps once a year, reflectors once every year or two years.
- expect on average at least 15-30% more yield compared to any air cooled competitor
- buy a umol meter to make sure avg ppfd is about 1000 umol and uniform (apogee quantum meter is fine)
- do the math and calculate simple ROI if you think anything you are buying is expensive, you are not growing lettuce

 

[smile]

Thanks for the info whazzup.

I know it's been posted somewhere, and I've used google and the forum search engine ut still can't find the exact footprint for the 600w Pro.

The 1000w Pro is 4 ft. by 6ft. due to the rectangular pattern.

What's the footprint for the 600w?

Will be using 600's due to heat issues.

Thanks!

 

[whazzup]

The reflector is the same, so the throw and pattern is the same. You just need less distance and can cover about 1 m2 with 1000 umol. They give the same amount of heat to your plants if you use the right distance.

 

[FatherEarth]

Thanks for the info whazzup.

I know it's been posted somewhere, and I've used google and the forum search engine ut still can't find the exact footprint for the 600w Pro.

The 1000w Pro is 4 ft. by 6ft. due to the rectangular pattern.

What's the footprint for the 600w?

Will be using 600's due to heat issues.

Thanks!

answer to your Q:

http://www.apogeeinstruments.com/mq-200-quantum-separate-sensor-with-handheld-meter/

Too bad they dont have Mac software to link it up...

 

[drknockbootz]

Quick question Whazzup

I have an indiana bubble gum in beds one side of it is getting master greenpower 400v 600w plus and the other side the non pro. One thing i noticed is that the non plus is registering more purples to the naked eye. The non plus is outperforming the pro side and not only does it look better its much more bulkier.

Can you please explain why is this. Should I test all my strains to see which ones respond better. Never thought those lights would be such a difference. I was under the assumption that the plus was superior to its predecessor.

btw my cheese theres not much of a difference(its also sharing the two bulbs) but the slight edge goes to the plus

 

[whazzup]

What is a non-pro? If you are comparing the gp 600W 400V EL in the plus and the previous version, that is just 4% difference in light output extra. I assume that you are using pro-line ballasts for both of them. If you really dive into the spectral output you will see that the GP plus has a tiny bit less blue in it, but it is only a fraction. We have not seen any differences in expression with different strains so far. What you could try though is add some blue light or plasma light. I would always recommend to mix some blue light with HPS.

We have done extensive tests between the GP EL lamps and others, and always had a considerable better yield with the GP EL lamps.

So I need more accurate information, and do understand that light is not the only influencing factor. In a room with 40 clones you can still have differences, even (and maybe specifically) if they are grown in beds.

First start measuring the light levels with a par meter to see if your lighting is actually correct.

 

[drknockbootz]

Typo with my earlier post I was referring to the plus line

I have 3 600w 400v on a 4x8 bed of coco. I was wondering what type of light I could squeeze into there to give a better mix.
Maybe 2 600's and a plasma in the middle? Also are there any other alternatives besides the plasma for most efficient blue lighting?(maybe 315w cmh?) The non plus is kicking the plus sides ass, like you said there are other possible factors that could be leading to this.Its tough to explain so Im going to try and get some pics up so you can see the difference. Other than that Im loving the gavitas.

 

[Hammerhead]

Im doing a bunch of tests with diferant reflectors and differant systems like the E-Papillon Philips Double Ended Complete Fixture vs Gavita vs normal Digital ballasts. We are taking Par measurements on all of them.. we also have 2 Sunlight reflectors made for the DE bulbs. one is a big sucker the other is much smaller with side reflectors. It is a air cooled hood but says does not cool the bulb only removes the heat. we will test this as well.

 

[whazzup]

Typo with my earlier post I was referring to the plus line

I have 3 600w 400v on a 4x8 bed of coco. I was wondering what type of light I could squeeze into there to give a better mix.
Maybe 2 600's and a plasma in the middle? Also are there any other alternatives besides the plasma for most efficient blue lighting?(maybe 315w cmh?) The non plus is kicking the plus sides ass, like you said there are other possible factors that could be leading to this.Its tough to explain so Im going to try and get some pics up so you can see the difference. Other than that Im loving the gavitas.

yes, plasma light is a good addition as it does not send more heat to your crop. MH and CMH are both really hot lamps as well, plus they do not provide you with UV. Use the 41.01 spectrum as additional lighting, you don't need any more red in your supplemental light. HPS is much more efficient generating reds.

 

[brandnewbie]

Am I reading you correctly that I also should add different lights to add additional spectrum of light?

 

[brandnewbie]

General rules of thumb:

- one 1000W per 2 m2
- one 600W per 1 m2
- use in rows, usually in the length, center lamps 90 cm apart, rows 1.2-2m apart
- observe 3' distance from 1000W, 2' from 600W
- distance to wall less than half you use between the rows to compensate wall losses
- 4000 btu per 1000W
- change lamps once a year, reflectors once every year or two years.
- expect on average at least 15-30% more yield compared to any air cooled competitor
- buy a umol meter to make sure avg ppfd is about 1000 umol and uniform (apogee quantum meter is fine)
- do the math and calculate simple ROI if you think anything you are buying is expensive, you are not growing lettuce

Am I reading you correctly that I also should add different lights to add additional spectrum of light?

 

[whazzup]

That is an option yes. On the other hand growers have just doen fine growing under HPS, so it is your own choice. HPS for quantity, plasma for quality.