Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

[puff adder]

I tried the MET52 in one of my rooms, added it to the coco as I potted up.

Usually by now, I'd have the root aphids, and I Always have some fungus gnats, but so far, the room is 100% bug free.

I'm potting the other half of the room up today, and will use the MET52 again, so I hope to see a completely RA-free run this time around.

So far, the MET52 is working as advertised.

 

[SacredOutlaw]

WOW!!!!
i started off by getting some cuttingss from a dispensary. the cuttings came in 1 inch rockwool cubes and i transfered them to 4 inch cubes. all looked well. i was growing in a ebb n flow system using general hydro 3 part formula, under a 600 watt hps. I then started noticing yellowing and what looked like burning, so i purchased a few ppm meters after having problems with the first one not calibrating properly.

Up till this point in all my years of growing, ive never had to monitor nute ppms. All this time i was thinking that i was doing something wrong, i even raised the light, thinking that it was causing the burning of leaves.
Then i noticed small nats and upon looking under the RW cubes, i was horrified to see these liittle beatle like creatures!!!!!! Immediately i looked them up online and identified them, then went to the hydro store and the guy there knew exactly what they were and recommended that i dunk the cubes in azamax!! I then treated the plants in azamax and they looked sickly for a few days and did gain some vigor back. About 10 days later i noticed the bugs had returned. I did some more researching and found this thread.

I have since read all 108 pages of this thread over about a 2 week period of time. After reading and getting to the 10th page, i decided that i needed to try imid. I added 45 ml of bayer complete to 1 gallon of water and completely soaked the plants in the solution. After this treatment of imid, the plants came back to life immediately and startted growing how they should!!!! 14 days later, there was NO sign of any further infestation and the plants were still doing great.
I decided to do one last treatment of imid just to make sure. That was 4 days ago, and the plants look great. I recommend that for best results, let the plants get very dry to the point of slight wilting, then treat with imid and then do not water the plants again until they get bone dry and start to wilt. this will allow the plant to completely soak up the imid on the initial application, and by not watering until they start to wilt, will allow the plant to soak up all the imid water the plant is holding in the grow medium. at this point resume normal nutrient water feeding.

And yes. i saw the youtube video of the rockwool that was still in the packaging and infested with root aphids!! i decided to check my rockwool cubes that are still in the package and unused, and sure enough, it had tons of aphid eggs and a small flyer but they were all dead!!!! i assumed that i got the aphids from the dispensary but im now thinking that they came from the rockwool that i bought at the hydro store!!! medium does not need roots for the aphids to be attracted to them!! and they loooove rockwool!!!!! Just a heads up!!

my theory is taht a lot of the warehouses where inventory of rockwool is sold also have non cannabis plants in their showroom etc, and im sure lots of these warehouses have mj grows as well. im thinking the rockwool got contaminated this way and the end consumer ends up getting it. Check your rockwool guys!!! And to save those who are new to this thread from having to read 108 pages, use IMIDACLOPRID to destroy root aphids!!! i recommend bayer complete insect killer as it also has an on contact chemical, in addition to imidacloprid. This can be purchased at home depot for under $20. have fun and good growing!!

-S.O.

 

[RetroGrow]

WOW!!!!


I have since read all 108 pages of this thread over about a 2 week period of time. After reading and getting to the 10th page, i decided that i needed to try imid. I added 45 ml of bayer complete to 1 gallon of water and completely soaked the plants in the solution. After this treatment of imid, the plants came back to life immediately and startted growing how they should!!!! 14 days later, there was NO sign of any further infestation and the plants were still doing great.
I decided to do one last treatment of imid just to make sure. That was 4 days ago, and the plants look great. I recommend that for best results, let the plants get very dry to the point of slight wilting, then treat with imid and then do not water the plants again until they get bone dry and start to wilt. this will allow the plant to completely soak up the imid on the initial application, and by not watering until they start to wilt, will allow the plant to soak up all the imid water the plant is holding in the grow medium. at this point resume normal nutrient water feeding.



And to save those who are new to this thread from having to read 108 pages, use IMIDACLOPRID to destroy root aphids!!! i recommend bayer complete insect killer as it also has an on contact chemical, in addition to imidacloprid. This can be purchased at home depot for under $20. have fun and good growing!!

-S.O.

All sounds so strangely familiar......

 

[RockyMountainHi]

I added 45 ml of bayer complete to 1 gallon of water and ...
-S.O.

9 TEASPOONS or 3 TABLESPOONS per gallon????

 

[Canniwhatsis]

....

 

[EclipseFour20]

How much active ingredient is that per plant? Smokin Imid at 45ml per gallon....just saying.

 

[RockyMountainHi]

I go in and pick up my note pad, and what do I see?



And the new Bayer Tree n Shrub, is GREEN.
REALLY GREEN, LIKE SNOT!!
WTF? I hate when they change shit I use in the grow.

 

[puff adder]

Bayer tree and shrub is different now. It used to have only IMID, and some nutes. The Imid was 1.47%. It worked great for me.

I didn't want to use the new version that has 1/2 the imid and some other contact killer, so I went looking, and found ANNUAL brand Tree and Shrub. It has 1.47% Imid, and nothing else, no nutes, IMO even better than the Bayer.

 

[RockyMountainHi]

Hiya puff, thanks for the heads up!

I did a search - I think it's made by Bonide - the systemic insecticide is Imid - Here's the brief:



Annual Tree & Shrub Insect Control with Systemaxx by Bonide kills insects in one application and prevents new infestations for an entire year. No spraying required, just mix and pour at base of plant or tree. This systemic insecticide is then absorbed through the roots to all parts of the plant, including new growth, and cannot be washed off by rain or water. For use on fruit, nut and ornamental trees and shrubs, see product label for a complete list. Kills boreres, adelgids, miners, whitefly, scale, beetles, weevils and more.


I have been sterilizing my rockwool in the microwave, - about 20 minutes at 30% gets it up to about 160 f. throughout.

I just went and bought a dozen new blocks for 7 little old school BOG's LSD seedlings - which didn't get nuked because they were new. (the blocks, not the seedlings)

Anything that can go wrong, WILL!
And it will ALWAYS happen at the worst time.......


Eclipse - I can see your about to tweek - note, the above use on food and nut crops.
I would avoid use in flower, but after 11 or 12 or 13 weeks in the flower room - and another 4 to 6 weeks curing. It'll dew.

I've lost a couple crops to RA's - and mites and thrips.

Gawd damm bugs like my bud as much as I do!



Well I'm off to find my magnifier and go check the garden.

Battle stations till further notice.

 

[Canniwhatsis]

That's a Gnat tho,.... no need to crush things with imid. Pyrethrin will solve em toot sweet, same with thrips.

Spray all your vege and early flower foliage 1-2x a week with "Don't bug me" from fox farm and thrips/ gnats are gone in 3 weeks. (I"ve knocked minor non breeding thrip problems down with 2 sprays a week apart! )

For both bugs there has to be adult fliers to make the next gen of eggs,... Pyrethrin does the adults and larva in on contact. So thrips are the easy ones larva are on the leaves.
thrip larva or "Nymph"

Fungus gnats spray the topsoil heavy before watering it in to get larva.



No bueno late in flower, but keep your shit clean in vege and flower won't be a problem.

 

[RockyMountainHi]

http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?_adv_prop=image&fr=yfp-t-701-s&va=root+aphid+life+cycle

According to the pictures on Yahoo - it looks like their adult RA's

And it won't "get the root aphids" till it goes into the plant and the RA's eat the roots then die. Thats' what systemic means.

 

[Granger2]

Says, "Annual Tree & Shrub Insect Control with Systemaxx by Bonide kills insects in one application and prevents new infestations for an entire year." Hmmm... Good luck. -granger

 

[Canniwhatsis]

http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?_adv_prop=image&fr=yfp-t-701-s&va=root+aphid+life+cycle

According to the pictures on Yahoo - it looks like their adult RA's

And it won't "get the root aphids" till it goes into the plant and the RA's eat the roots then die. Thats' what systemic means.

Where the hell are you getting that pic you posted was a root aphid? Your link has a similar pic, but it's talking about root maggots!,,,, can you say fungus gnat? (Which BTW what that particular pic is, and your bug)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BqRKkHFN_cY

Couple Pics for you to examine,... do these look like YOUR bug?

And to remind you of what your bug looks like,.....

 

[puff adder]

Says, "Annual Tree & Shrub Insect Control with Systemaxx by Bonide kills insects in one application and prevents new infestations for an entire year." Hmmm... Good luck. -granger

"Systemaxx" is just their brand name for Imidicloprid.

I am now using MET52, and so far, it seems to be working very well. I still have some fungus gnats, but I always have had those.

When I first discovered RA's in my room, it was in conjunction with a population explosion of fungus gnats, so now, when I see gnats, I suspect RA's as well.

I haven't detected any RA's in my rooms using the MET52 so far.

 

[RockyMountainHi]

Canna-
Take my pic and compare it to the photo on top row, third from right on page 3 of the yahoo link.

I'm thinking that looks like a adult Root Aphid - prolly after dropping a load of sexually mature colonists, - thus the skinny back side. When you see flyers, it's because they have reached saturation population somewhere else.

I had a bad outbreak from clones I traded. Learned a lot - at great expense.

funny how that works. anyway,,

To my eye, adult Root Aphids have a wasp like body.

And to the Imid haters,,, - as I remember, - imid is derrived from tobbacco.

It's simply amazing how many types of bugs die when exposed to tobbacco at suprisingly low concentrations.

Cigarette anybody?

 

[joe fresh]

about bonide i found this

http://www.igrowhydro.com/InfoSheets/InfoSheet-RootAphids.pdf

i think the merit sounds safer....

 

[puff adder]

This is a fungus gnat.

In the Yahoo link pics, page 4, bottom left center, This is a Root Aphid Flyer. Once you realize the differences, it's easy to tell the two apart.

RA flyer wings are iridescent, and they protrude well past the back of the bug. RA flyer bodies are stout and fat.

Fungus gnats look like little wasps, and the wings don't stick out past the back end of the bug.

I go in and pick up my note pad, and what do I see?

[URL="https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=35722&pictureid=845270&thumb=1"]View Image[/URL]

And the new Bayer Tree n Shrub, is GREEN.
REALLY GREEN, LIKE SNOT!!
WTF? I hate when they change shit I use in the grow.

 

[Canniwhatsis]

This is a fungus gnat.

In the Yahoo link pics, page 4, bottom left center, This is a Root Aphid Flyer. Once you realize the differences, it's easy to tell the two apart.

RA flyer wings are iridescent, and they protrude well past the back of the bug. RA flyer bodies are stout and fat.

Fungus gnats look like little wasps, and the wings don't stick out past the back end of the bug.

+3 and thank you.

 

[SacredOutlaw]

9 TEASPOONS or 3 TABLESPOONS per gallon????

A teaspoon is 5ml, and a tablespoon is 15 ml. So you can use 9 teaspoons or 3 tablespoons. I think using tablespoons would be a lot quicker.
-

 

[louie]

WOW!!!!
i started off by getting some cuttingss from a dispensary. the cuttings came in 1 inch rockwool cubes and i transfered them to 4 inch cubes. all looked well. i was growing in a ebb n flow system using general hydro 3 part formula, under a 600 watt hps. I then started noticing yellowing and what looked like burning, so i purchased a few ppm meters after having problems with the first one not calibrating properly.

Up till this point in all my years of growing, ive never had to monitor nute ppms. All this time i was thinking that i was doing something wrong, i even raised the light, thinking that it was causing the burning of leaves.
Then i noticed small nats and upon looking under the RW cubes, i was horrified to see these liittle beatle like creatures!!!!!! Immediately i looked them up online and identified them, then went to the hydro store and the guy there knew exactly what they were and recommended that i dunk the cubes in azamax!! I then treated the plants in azamax and they looked sickly for a few days and did gain some vigor back. About 10 days later i noticed the bugs had returned. I did some more researching and found this thread.

I have since read all 108 pages of this thread over about a 2 week period of time. After reading and getting to the 10th page, i decided that i needed to try imid. I added 45 ml of bayer complete to 1 gallon of water and completely soaked the plants in the solution. After this treatment of imid, the plants came back to life immediately and startted growing how they should!!!! 14 days later, there was NO sign of any further infestation and the plants were still doing great.
I decided to do one last treatment of imid just to make sure. That was 4 days ago, and the plants look great. I recommend that for best results, let the plants get very dry to the point of slight wilting, then treat with imid and then do not water the plants again until they get bone dry and start to wilt. this will allow the plant to completely soak up the imid on the initial application, and by not watering until they start to wilt, will allow the plant to soak up all the imid water the plant is holding in the grow medium. at this point resume normal nutrient water feeding.

And yes. i saw the youtube video of the rockwool that was still in the packaging and infested with root aphids!! i decided to check my rockwool cubes that are still in the package and unused, and sure enough, it had tons of aphid eggs and a small flyer but they were all dead!!!! i assumed that i got the aphids from the dispensary but im now thinking that they came from the rockwool that i bought at the hydro store!!! medium does not need roots for the aphids to be attracted to them!! and they loooove rockwool!!!!! Just a heads up!!

my theory is taht a lot of the warehouses where inventory of rockwool is sold also have non cannabis plants in their showroom etc, and im sure lots of these warehouses have mj grows as well. im thinking the rockwool got contaminated this way and the end consumer ends up getting it. Check your rockwool guys!!! And to save those who are new to this thread from having to read 108 pages, use IMIDACLOPRID to destroy root aphids!!! i recommend bayer complete insect killer as it also has an on contact chemical, in addition to imidacloprid. This can be purchased at home depot for under $20. have fun and good growing!!

-S.O.

Wow, so you used 45ml per gallon. The instructions call for 15 ml per gallon. How did they ook after giving them this amount. Are others using this much bayer complete too?