Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

[junior_grower]

well after treatment 2 the population is almost non existant yellow stickey traps are averging 1-3 per 2" some plants have 0. The slides have been prepared and Im off to get to the lab and see whats left alive and dead.

 

[Guywithoutajeep]

I've hit my plants three times with bayer. No matter what they eventually come back. Imid does keep the population down to almost nothing though. If I didn't use smart pots I would dunk the whole pot in a pool of imid.

Bayer saved my plants. Although they have got imid in them a little before 35 days from harvest I'll still smoke that shit. 2 weeks to dry and a months cure will break that stuff down even more.

Lets say you used Bayer 2 weeks from harvest. Would you still smoke it after a 60 day cure?

 

[puff adder]

Applications of Imid (Bayer Tree and Shrub) followed a week later by a soil drench with Azamax has worked for me. Applied in veg and at week 1 of flowering, these two things have allowed me to run to the end without issue.

 

[EclipseFour20]

48 hours...zero root aphid activity. Since it takes about 7 days for Imid to do it's systematic thing--this drench-dunk-dunk process is working so far.

 

[smokesalot420]

I get a little uneasy when I read the amounts of pesticides people are using and how often they are applying them.... The Bayer product specifically tells you not to reapply the Bayer for at least a year and I see people who are using it 3x or more for the same plant....

I am having my next crop tested for molds/pesticide residuals/ and THC and CBD ratios to find out if there is any Imid still in the plants after 1 treatment right before I flip into flower. I realize that the instructions for the Bayer say it can be used up to 21 days before harvest but I simply do not trust chemical companies with as many warnings as we get these days....

By the way, I am using it at 4-5 ml per gallon and am getting excellent results; People may want to consider using less of this product like we discussed in this thread months ago as the half-life of Imid in soil is unknown at the moment (or at least I have yet to find any definitive information on this subject through my research). Anyone who is treating with multiple products will find they do not need to use massive amounts of Imid to control to keep the bugs at bay. I recommend supplementing a product like Botaniguard as Norkali is doing or incorporating a system as Eclipse is doing if you want to kill these things and keep them from evolving a resistance to some of the few products that are working against them atm (think Nor-cal neem resistant mites!!!)

 

[smokesalot420]

well folks I have a room to be treated but Im am going to go with a H202 drench (kills them in stages 1-4) The mixing ratio will be a .25% by volume drench and it will stay in the resevior. My micro heard will be gone but so will these pests. Ill post results up over the next 2-3 weeks ( life cycle means I will be reapeating every 3 days for 4 weeks)

Not sure who gave you neg rep for this post but I have heard of this from multiple sources and am interested in your results. I was told to use the 35% H2O2 but haven't tried it as I also didn't want to hurt my microherd but when I think about it I also think that Bayer and many of these pesticides probably also kill the microherd.

I try to reestablish everything by using aerated compost tea after I use Bayer or anything else that may harm my Bene's and I like the results I get.

 

[turbo14]

Well after treatment 1 population is down by 90%, a nother good dose is due tommorow.

Hey Junior,

Was that from just the H202 soke? I have been spraying safer soaps as well as Botaniguard 22WP.

Also, have any of you noticed spotty leafs that resemble cal/mag def. such as these? We feed with cal/mag at least every other watering if not every watering.

 

[EclipseFour20]

Hey Smokes...I agree with you on the dosage thing.

As I understand how Imid systematic control functions, you apply the darkside potion to the soil...and the active ingredient is taken up by the plant roots...and the pest is infected when it takes a bite from the plant--not when it comes in contact with Imid in the soil or water.

So those that make repeated doses are doing 2 things: wasting $$$ and loading up the plant with shit since Imid does not kill anything...in fact it may take 7-14 days to actually work.

Perhaps we should calculate how many ml of Imid each plant receives. I applied 1.5 ml of 0.235%--which works out to 0.003525 ml of Imid per plant. I can live with that number.

 

[WauiGreen]

Its root aphids brother. You have all the symptoms of them. Springtails are "good" bugs, and don't destroy your plants like that. I know that people would rather it be Anything else other than RA's but bite the bullet, you have the plague. Treat your ladies accordingly.

In veg I used the Bayer Tree and Shrub as a soil drench at 20mls per gallon. Also treated with Triazicide at 11ml per gallon, although that stuff is not necessary, I've read. Then, a month later I spotted the tiny fast moving crawlies and hit them with the Bayer again. Go to home depot and pick up the bayer, its not too expensive.

Thanks lilmiss, ah hell! have order some Bayer and it's time to go on a killing spree!! Thought there was definitely a problem, poor little ladies. I give them their due though these plants are tough, they never stop surprising me. The beauties are coming back even just with a good dose of tobacco juice although I do have a couple of seedlings looking sick, the others seem to be pulling through. Have heard that dried coffee grinds will stop them laying eggs in the soil, is this true?? Will try anything and everything at the moment. I can't actually see them and only when the plants went downhill fast did I think WTF. You live and learn, thanks for all your help guys, would be lost without you.

 

[Guywithoutajeep]

I get a little uneasy when I read the amounts of pesticides people are using and how often they are applying them.... The Bayer product specifically tells you not to reapply the Bayer for at least a year and I see people who are using it 3x or more for the same plant....

quote]

mine says reapply after a week...half life in soil

"The half-life of imidacloprid in soil is 48-190 days, depending on the amount of ground cover (it breaks down faster in soils with plant ground cover than in fallow soils) (9). Organic material aging may also affect the breakdown rate of imidacloprid. Plots treated with cow manure and allowed to age before sowing showed longer persistence of imidacloprid in soils than in plots where the manure was more recently applied, and not allowed to age (10). Imidacloprid is degraded stepwise to the primary metabolite 6-chloronicotinic acid, which eventually breaks down into carbon dioxide (11). There is generally not a high risk of groundwater contamination with imidacloprid if used as directed. The chemical is moderately soluble, and has moderate binding affinity to organic materials in soils. However, there is a potential for the compound to move through sensitive soil types including porous, gravelly, or cobbly soils, depending on irrigation practices"

http://pmep.cce.cornell.edu/profiles/extoxnet/haloxyfop-methylparathion/imidacloprid-ext.html


if anyone here is afraid of ingesting imid then you better stop getting your fruits and vegetables from the grocery store and start growing them in your backyard, imid is used everywhere, dont be a sissy

 

[greentrich]

Ok everyone, I'm about to administer some Spectracide. I know it was mentioned not to mix with anything, but does anyone have any input on using PH buffers (up or down) with this stuff???

 

[EclipseFour20]

Wow...it looks like the pyrethrin drench & insecticidal soap dunk knocked them down by 90%...but check this out---when 2 pyrethrin dunks are added--99% knock out.

So....drench the container with pyrethrin (to drive the critters to the bottom), followed by a 10 second pyrethrin dunk (to kill em), then followed by a 2 minute soap dunk...then wait an 1/2 hour or so for the container to drain...then a final 10 second pyrethrin dunk. That will knock them down like 99%.

Also...to treat the pathogens and mold the root aphids left behind (they are one of the worst--google "pathogens" and "aphids")...the insecticidal soap does remove some--but not all. I will try a series of flushes and inoculating the plants with Hygrozyme and post my update. BTW...no casualties from the Imid.

 

[lilmiss]

Ok everyone, I'm about to administer some Spectracide. I know it was mentioned not to mix with anything, but does anyone have any input on using PH buffers (up or down) with this stuff???

Yes, I always ph the spectracide/water mixture before I use it.

 

[P. Dondrub]

I've got a lot of these suckers come out the bottom of my pots when I water.


About 1mm long... same things others are seeing?

 

[Norkali]

That doesn't look like any Root Aphid crawler that I've seen....

 

[Rednick]

I've got a lot of these suckers come out the bottom of my pots when I water.


About 1mm long... same things others are seeing?

That is something in it's larval stage.
Do you see a phantom Cal or Mag def?

 

[ItsGrowTime]

I've got a lot of these suckers come out the bottom of my pots when I water.


About 1mm long... same things others are seeing?

My uneducated guess would be springtail larvae. The antennae give it away.

 

[GeorgeSmiley]

My uneducated guess would be springtail larvae. The antennae give it away.

Good call, that is indeed a springtail.


So I have left the fast moving white hypoapsis mites (Which many thought were bad bugs) alone going on my belief that's what they are and leave em alone. They have kept the entire flowering room gnatless for months along side a large outbreak on the other side of the wall. The smaller plants dont have the mites crawling about and still have a lingering gnat, maybe 1 per week is seen, so still gonna be an issue if I dont get on it., I took a scoop of them and just put it in all the pots.

Doing great.


Smiley

 

[beta]

.

 

[GeorgeSmiley]

Nothing I found had the hypoapsis sharing any traits with the RA's. I've had the fast moving white ones under 20x from tiny to the larger size and 5 people have agreed it's identical to hypoapsis and no traits of an RA.

Smiley