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From start of cloning to harvest 13 week scrog

who dat is

Cave Dweller
Veteran
I haven't been paying close attention to the thread but was curious about the combustion air ductwork going down into your flower chamber.... I assume you're in your basement then? Does your furnace and/or water heater have enough combustion and return air if you have separated it?
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
I haven't been paying close attention to the thread but was curious about the combustion air ductwork going down into your flower chamber.... I assume you're in your basement then? Does your furnace and/or water heater have enough combustion and return air if you have separated it?

I have a 8 inch fan blowing into my basement to cool my flower and veg room. I also have two six inch make up air holes. And both my water heater and furnace are high efficiency. So I have no issues with that.

In my room off to the left side is a 8 inch duct coming down from the ceiling. this pipe just pulls air in from my basement. To the right front corner near the ceiling is my exhaust from the room. It is a 8 inch fan rated at 590 cfm. The room is 5 x 7 x 7 or 245 cubic feet. With lose for ducting I think I have just over a 2 times per minute air exchange. I can touch the glass on the hood and not get burned or feel unpleasant from the heat.
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
You too Ichabod, what a fantastic thread! I really gotta go back and reread some stuff, but you sure got air layering down!

I still mess up air layers like that Death Star I ripped the roots off. It looked terrible and still is barely hanging on. All the leaves are wilted put starting to perk up a little.

Honestly this thread is not something that the parts have not been done for many years already. I just happen to be the first to put them together and post it. I would not be surprised if some one is bitching about me posting it first or giving away their grow secrets. Opps haha.
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
I mentioned the Death Star was still alive but lost some leaves. Well if you wanted to see it, this is it.



I will most likely kill it off because I dont need it. But just wanted to see how long it takes to recoup. So far it has been around 13 days. Just a guess with out checking the date I cut it.

In other news I have the first buds starting to show. They are on the Bruce Banner #3 clones. It is now day 11 of flower.



Not much of a picture I know. But I took like 30 and this is the best I could get.

And even better news is that the mother in law is heading home tomorrow morning. So my week end is book solid. I have to trim another 15 by Monday, load a flower room, and up pot a ton of plants. Then clean another flower room out to get ready to load in about 2 more weeks.

Damn I am like giddy about her leaving. I hate falling behind in my grow.

Hope every one had a good Thanks Giving. I spent all afternoon bloated and napping.:)
 

indocult

Active member
you are dry trimming yeah?

those other tiny scissors are really great for up close and stuff if you only have like 8 oz....

if you need to dry trim a LOT, you need to purchase atleast 3 pair of scissors, keep a cup of coconut oil/veg oil/ iso alcohol to keep the blades of the scissors you arent using soaking in, and once your current pair is gummed up just switch (you probably know this but this is more towards anyone who hasn't trimmed before)
There are a couple scissors that are actually a little quicker and don't strain your hand like fiskars, The ARS and the Chikamasa.... They aren't spring loaded, but they are super light and sharp, and once you get the hang of them you can go way faster than fiskars.

If you like the fiskar style but want something more efficient, the hydrofarm curved blade scissors are great.

Just pulling up a chair here and stuff, getting of my trimming rant....

NIce thread Ichy, crazy detailed I love it! Also the air layering thing is great, I tried it once with poor results and discounted it as a viable cloning option, but seeing your cuts being teen size from start, I am second guessing it! Very nice detailed info about it, I'm gonna have to try it again.

I thought you used those bonsai hero things?
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
you are dry trimming yeah?

those other tiny scissors are really great for up close and stuff if you only have like 8 oz....

if you need to dry trim a LOT, you need to purchase atleast 3 pair of scissors, keep a cup of coconut oil/veg oil/ iso alcohol to keep the blades of the scissors you arent using soaking in, and once your current pair is gummed up just switch (you probably know this but this is more towards anyone who hasn't trimmed before)
There are a couple scissors that are actually a little quicker and don't strain your hand like fiskars, The ARS and the Chikamasa.... They aren't spring loaded, but they are super light and sharp, and once you get the hang of them you can go way faster than fiskars.

If you like the fiskar style but want something more efficient, the hydrofarm curved blade scissors are great.

Just pulling up a chair here and stuff, getting of my trimming rant....

NIce thread Ichy, crazy detailed I love it! Also the air layering thing is great, I tried it once with poor results and discounted it as a viable cloning option, but seeing your cuts being teen size from start, I am second guessing it! Very nice detailed info about it, I'm gonna have to try it again.

I thought you used those bonsai hero things?
I have a hero to trim with. But It got to the point that I could not get everything trimmed in time. So I went to just drying the entire plant rather than loose one or two every so often. I have not tried using the heros on a dry plant yet.

So I went back to using the Fiskars. But I have many many pairs like you said. One thing I have found is that they do not all have the same spring tension. So I save the springs from the ones I like. Yes I have wore some out.

But with the entire plant dry I have found it way faster to trim. Even faster than the heros. I dont really trim so much as break the leaves off. Much less tiring on the hands this way. And more gentle on the buds. When the bud is scoped you can see everything just standing up. They look great for people who like to look at them under the scope.

I think that air layering is way under used. Like you I tried it and it did not work. I had a problem with the whole plastic wrap part. This way works so much better. Maybe not perfect but neither is cloning in plugs. Just so much faster to get a large plant.

Anyway glad you are along. You bring info like all the other people who have been here for awhile. It is good for the new people to see all the different styles that people use. That is how I started was reading all the different ways then putting them together how I thought they would work best for me. That is how this thread came about.
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
Today is the 14th day of flower. About 12 to 14 days of stretch left. I took three pictures just before lights on today.

When you look at them the Dr. Pepper bottle is a 20 ounce bottle. The scrog screen support pipe running across the screen is 1.25 inches in diameter. This should give a idea of how big the plants are.





 

Jonny Lan

Well-known member
Veteran
So bad news today. I was in my veg which looks like this.

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=64085&pictureid=1519683]View Image[/url]

And I broke one of the Death Star clones off. You can see it here in this picture.

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=64085&pictureid=1519682]View Image[/url]

It is in the middle where the bottle top is.

Now to be honest I screwed up this air layer. When I took it off the mother plant I could see that it broke at the part I removed the bark. Well if you look at the picture Above you can see the brake is at the top of the upper bottle. So the stripped area was not even in the coco. Duh thats a Homer Simpson mistake.

When I cut it off and looked at it I could see the top was still living so I think the branch would have just scared over. And that is what the brake appeared to be doing. Here you can see that the top was still healthy. Which proves that nutrients still get to the tip with the bark removed.

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=64085&pictureid=1519681]View Image[/url]

This would have been awesome in my scrog. Oh well.

I will post again when some thing else happens. It is like watching grass grow around here. lol
is that a pair of fishers with the slider broke off them in the last pic? happens to all my dam fishers after trimming enough pounds.
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
That looks like the screen is filling in well.. Nice

Should be full and a good height by the time they finish stretching. Nice work bro:tiphat:

Nice canopy you got rocking there.

Thanks guys and er girls maybe. Haha. Yeh I think it should fill in nicely. Still a little bare in spots and denser in others. Not bad enough to keep it from filling in I think. But enough to set off someones OCD.

is that a pair of fishers with the slider broke off them in the last pic? happens to all my dam fishers after trimming enough pounds.

I dont have a pair with a slid on them. I took all the slides off. Drives me crazy when they lock while I am trimming. So for my sanity they went by by. Same with the lock on my pruners.
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
Here are the best 5 plants from cuttings. It is now day 15 of flower for the air layered clones.

The tallest clone from a cutting is a Death Star at around 13.5 inches tall. It is the middle plant of the 5. On the left are 2 more Death Star plants and on the right are 2 Bruce Banner #3 plants.

Compare these to the scrog screen in flower which also has 5 plants.

 
T

thesloppy

if you need to dry trim a LOT, you need to purchase atleast 3 pair of scissors, keep a cup of coconut oil/veg oil/ iso alcohol to keep the blades of the scissors you arent using soaking in, and once your current pair is gummed up just switch (you probably know this but this is more towards anyone who hasn't trimmed before)
There are a couple scissors that are actually a little quicker and don't strain your hand like fiskars, The ARS and the Chikamasa.... They aren't spring loaded, but they are super light and sharp, and once you get the hang of them you can go way faster than fiskars.

I'll second the ARS recommendation. I used to swear by Fiskars until I got a pair of ARS. I was tossing out dulled Fiskars every 3 months or so, whereas my ARS 300LDX (you can find them $10 cheaper than Amazon fairly easily) have remained sharp for over a year now, and they're just of an obviously higher quality and more comfortable as well. There are several very similar models, but the LDX has more durable stainless steel blades, with the long needle-nose similar to the popular micro Fiskars. They are spring loaded (better spring than the Fiskars too), ergonomically shaped, and great for cutting clones or pruning. They also work great for trimming, but if I was going to use them exclusively for that I might look into this similar model which has 1/2 inch longer blades (though I prefer stainless blades, and the spring looks jankier on the longer model):

http://www.amleo.com/ars-standard-hand-shears-8-inch-length/p/SE65/
 
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Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
Scrog is lookin on point and so are the ones above...nice work as usual Ichabod.

Have you ever tried to cut a 12-16" or even 14-18" branch and clone it right to a cup of pure coco?

I coulda swear it worked when I was younger, but It was not my main focus at the time...might try it soon, but was wondering if air layering is a better route or just to cut the branch and place right into a cup of coco?

No I have not tried that. I would think the air layer would do better than a cutting. For the simple fact that the air layer is still being feed by the mother.

I'll second the ARS recommendation. I used to swear by Fiskars until I got a pair of ARS. I was tossing out dulled Fiskars every 3 months or so, whereas my ARS 300LDX (you can find them $10 cheaper than Amazon fairly easily) have remained sharp for over a year now, and they're just of an obviously higher quality and more comfortable as well. There are several very similar models, but the LDX has more durable stainless steel blades, with the long needle-nose similar to the popular micro Fiskars. They are spring loaded (better spring than the Fiskars too), ergonomically shaped, and great for cutting clones or pruning. They also work great for trimming, but if I was going to use them exclusively for that I might look into this similar model which has 1/2 inch longer blades (though I prefer stainless blades, and the spring looks jankier on the longer model):

http://www.amleo.com/ars-standard-hand-shears-8-inch-length/p/SE65/

I have no idea how fast the Fiskars get dull. I have them spread out all over my grow. I must have 2 to 15 pairs haha. I will have to check the ars out. Thanks

I'm a big fan of the chikamasa scissors, myself....

Can you tell me more about these. I have never heard of them.

I have no problem spending a few more dollars for something that is of a decent quality. It just seems to be less stressful in the long run not dealing with something that is a piece of crap.
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
Tonight when I water I will start using this water wand. I made it so that I dont get water on the plants. Since I put the screen at 14.5 inches from the floor I have less than 5 inch between the bucket top and the screen. That means I can only water the front two plant from underneath.

The wand is just a 3.5 to 1.5 reducer with a 1.5 to 3/4 reducer and a piece of 3/4 inch pipe.

 

Avinash.miles

Caregiver Extraordinaire
Moderator
ICMag Donor
Veteran
the chikamasa are spring-less, zero resistance & very precise tip.... i use the orange handled ones, they are advertised as resin resistant sometimes, but imo they gather as much residue as any other blades.
once i got accustomed to using the chikamasa going back to springed fiskars seemed like just that: "going back"wards
 
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