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External Breaker Boxs (30 amp + 50 amp) = DIY Tutorial ??

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DB2004

My site is still under construction. I have 100's of jpeg to post. I keep pretty busy and I will have it done soon. If there are people who are intersted in a particluar controller, I can send the emails of the unit(s). I work as an electrician during the week and my spare time I spend building units for people. Thanx for the referrals Budweiser13. I will have a parts list posted by tomorrow night, for a 30A and 50A timerbox.

Best Regards

DB
 
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Guest

DB........It` sounds like to me that your assistance is in "DIRE" need for folks needing complete portable units......I for one could`ve saved big $$ from trial and error over ALL these yrs. to come up with a total unit that can be plugged into and backfed from any range or dryer plug and work ALL my appliances......Even now my shit`s all over the place due to the learning curve and electricity isn`t my strong suit but I get by.........You are to be commended by the community for what you ALREADY have shared, and I wait patiently to find where I can obtain such knowledge on purchasing some 50 amp units (or custom need make-ups) at your site under construction........Peace.....DHF.... :joint:
 
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Guest

DB is the man for the job. I'm going to be having a panel made soon. Will let everyone know how it works out. A little different then these but for the same thing. Also, it will be hard wired to a 12kW diesel generator. Good luck all and if you don't know what your doing with wiring. Don't even think about it. You could get hurt or even killed. Take care all and be safe.
BG
 
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DB2004

Here's a parts list for a 30 Amp Load Center. I use the Siemens Q21525CT breaker. It's a quad/tandem breaker with two 25Amp breakers common trip. Other who build these units use 20A breaker. If you're using 4 - 1000W ballasts, the total amperage draw is around 18 amp, not including power on spike. This exceeds the 80% of a breakers load capacity. The two 15 amp breakers are for two constant 120V receptacles.

1 SIEMENS E0408ML1125 F/S Load Center
1 SIEMENS 45GG20AF 30 Amp DP Contactor
1 SIEMENS Q21525CT
1 AUBE T1033 Timer
2 NEMA 6-15 240V Receptacles (Ballasts @ 240V)
2 2-Gang Boxes
2 2-Gang Box Covers
1 1-Gang Box (AUBE Timer)
6 Threaded Spacer Nippers (1/2”)
12 BX Lock Nuts (1/2”)
12 BX Bushings (1/2”)
1 30 Amp Dryer Cord

12 AWG Hook-Up Wire (Constant 120V Receptacles)
10 AWG Hook-Up Wire (Ballast Receptacles)

10-12 AWG Terminal Lugs (Yellow)


I can supply a parts list for a 50A timerbox, but I recommend not using the standard range cord/plug. The wire is only rated for 40 amps max. It costs a little more, but buy a 50A range plug (30/50A 125/250V 3Pole 4Wire). The purchase about ten feet of 6/4 SJO wire. This wire is rated for 50A. There are many variations on the breakers to use. If you're using 240V ballasts, then dp breakers are needed. If you have 8 ballasts wired for 120V, you can have individual breaker protection for each ballast. If you can hard-wire the timerbox to the service panel, then I reccomend installing a 60A DP breaker at the service panel and wiring your 8 ballasts for 240V. You can group your ballasts four per DP breaker and have two DP breakers for your ballasts and 4 15A breakers for four 120V constant outlets (2 duplex receptacles). The SIEMENS Load Center has a 100A Bus.

Best Regards

DB









 
SoulShine

SoulShine

Active member
Hey folks,

I have a question for you if you have a minute. This is probably very simplistic, but electricity scares the crap out of me. Some thing you cannot see that can fry you or your electronics and such.

Anyway, I am wanting to add a 20 amp breaker, to add an additional outlet. It is in an external box that has a 70 amp breaker in the main breaker box. 50 amp breaker is already used for something else and there is an empty slot for a 20 amp breaker. I got the breaker and just need to wire it. Into the box are red and black wires that go to the top of the breaker holder (whatever you call it - hot wires) a white wire ( the common - right) and the ground. The white goes to a a little transfer block and the ground goes to it's own transfer box. So, on the GFI outlet it needs 3 wires. I'm assuming the green spot is for the ground. The other would be the hot from the botom of the breaker and would the other be the common? I think thats right but want to make sure before I wire it up and fry the heat/air conditioner thats using the 50 amp breaker.

Any help would be appriciated. I was gonna start a thread but it seemed like this was already an electrical one so if anyone could let me know if this is right. I'm really not stupid, well, maybe just about electricity. Ha!

SoulShine
 
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Guest

Killer post DB. Guess that should make everyone happy now. Really love the pictures of the units you built. Take care and thanks for sharing.
Later,
BG
 
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GoodGipp

New member
Thanks DB for the list you came through as promised. Now if only I can see inside of one of those badboys?????lol lol
 
Local420

Local420

Member
I know some of this was covered in earlier posts in this thread but in terms of the MLO panel, correct me if I'm wrong but you also need to purchase an equipment ground bar, from what I understand you need to seperate the neutral and ground at the sub-panel and at the main panel is where the neutral and ground are bonded. I'm asking this because I'm building something similar and I bought a 50amp 4-wire range cord (I still have to convert the outlet from 3prong to 4prong.)

My other question is in regards to the 40amp intermatic T104 timer. I'm planning on running 4x 600W HPS w/ digital ballasts @ 240v. I have the timer wired with 10/2 to a 30amp dp breaker, then with more 10/2 to a junction box where my 4x 240v circuits wired with 12/2 come into, and then the respective leads spliced together with wirenuts and electrical taped around the wire nuts.

I did this to handle the startup load of 4x 600w e-ballasts, is this safe or should I replace it with the 10/2 with 12/2 and a 20amp breaker. I'm not sure how many amps the startup of 4x 600w e-ballasts be so I'm trying to be safe.

I haven't plugged this in yet, as I want verification that my work is safe.
 
Guayaki

Guayaki

Member
DB you are the man. This is a great thread! This is something I am putting together in the upcoming days. Thanks alot man!

I have always ran my lights at 110 volt. Is there a way that the city can detect that you are running all your energy using 220 volts now and becoming suspicious?
 
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yamaha_1fan

Guayaki said:
Is there a way that the city can detect that you are running all your energy using 220 volts now and becoming suspicious?
Click to expand...

No possible way that I can think of. The meter measures wattage use. And your wattage use is the same regardless of how its run 120/240
 
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rootfingers

Active member
does anybody have one of the 30 or 50 amp timer boxes that this thread was originally started about?

I bought one last year and after moving I realize I lost the directions for the timer and cannot remember how to program it. If anybody can post the directions for these exact units I would be most appreciative.

Thanks
-RF
 
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DB2004

If you bought a timerbox from nowirenuts or DB2004, those have AUBE TI033 timers, if that's the kind of timer it is, I'll send you a copy of the instructions.

Best Regards

DB2004
 
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rootfingers

Active member
DB2004, thanks for taking a minute.

I didn't buy one from either nowirenuts or DB2004 (<you?) but in my limited knowledge of these things I can say that the timer I have looks exactly like the one on the units you posted pics of back in reply #46. The only identifiable characteristics I can think of that might signify what kind of a timer it is, is it shows military time and has a manual override button that also acts as a button cover.

I would dig getting a copy of those instructions if you can, although I have to get my post count up before I can read any PMs but I am sure I can handle a few more.

:wave:
-RF
 
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savage17

New member
30 amp timer box----

30 amp timer box----


permalink

I have a 30 Amp timer box from sunlight supply--- i have it pluged into my dryer to the the 220 an i have 4 1000 watt lights with digital ballest an the timers box came with a timer an for some reason when I set the time on it for OFF an ON the lights dont come on nor shut off--- the timer box comes with 4 -240 receptacles an 2- 120 volt receptacles--- there are 2 cords coming out the the box one plugs in to the the dryer socket an the other into the wall to get power an I have the timer plugged into the timer box--- i am not sure what I am doing wrong-- can someone help thanks --------
 
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