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exhaust air at night in Sealed Room?

An air pump sould be located outside your grow room, inside would pump your warm supplimental Co2 into the root zone. There is no need to vent a perfect room, ever. A back up exhaust fan is handy though.

GG.
 

Dankstang

Member
I like to vent when lights off also in my sealed room.
Something about exchanging the air makes it feel better and allow me to use a cheap dehuey instead of a expensive one.

Plus I don't run Co2 last 10 days so I constantly pull fresh air at the end.
 

moses wellfleet

Well-known member
Moderator
Veteran
I like to vent when lights off also in my sealed room.
Something about exchanging the air makes it feel better and allow me to use a cheap dehuey instead of a expensive one.

Plus I don't run Co2 last 10 days so I constantly pull fresh air at the end.
What if I were to tell you that you don't have a sealed room?
 

shredGnar

Member
Zero point for any air exchange if you have the proper equipment to have a good environment.

I can't imagine why you would want to turn on a fan and pull out your conditioned air.. You could never totally dial in your environment doing this. Exhausting your air conditioned/ dehumidified air and drawing in who knows what kind of mold/mildew spores and pests and shit.. Baffles me
 
I have a more or less sealed room and my extraction is not turned of at lights out, The fan controller turns the extraction on to low and automatically draws the warm air up through the intake passively from another warm room,
 

moses wellfleet

Well-known member
Moderator
Veteran
I have a more or less sealed room and my extraction is not turned of at lights out, The fan controller turns the extraction on to low and automatically draws the warm air up through the intake passively from another warm room,
What is your CO2 source, propane burner or bottled?
 

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
I am in the camp that brings in fresh air at night when my lights are on. I get "free CO2" in the 400-600 ppm range and use bottled CO2 to get to the 1200-1500 ppm range. The cool air also reduces the need for constant AC cooling, on cold nights (winter) the AC seldom is needed and usually is "on standby" (off).

Outside air also cools my lamps resulting in hoods that are "cool" and never get warm. Cool lamps, cool air...cool plants.

I am also in the camp that believes in proper air exchange. I vent my closed environment/grow chamber with fans sufficient to exchange the air (based on cfm) at the equivalent rate of around 13 times per hour--which works for me; during lights off the exhaust fan cycles on three times for 1/2 hour at a time.

Formula: Air Changes Per Hour = CFMx60 (fan rating) / Cubicfeet (room)

Assumptions:
Fan: 200 cfm
Room size 10' x 13' x 7' (width x length x height) = 910 cubic feet

Answer: 13.2 Air Changes Per Hour = (200 x 60)/910

With higher ceilings you also have a greater number of "cubic feet" which means more work for the exhaust fan(s). Greenhouse systems usually prefer 1-5 times air exchange per hour (summer vs winter rates)...but that is not a closed environment and that usually means 24/7.

I use electric dampers to close the exhaust duct when lights are on--no reason to let the CO2 escape. I made DIY filter boxes to filter the outside air as well, and everything exhausts up in my attic.

Air handling experts agree that, the best way to minimize bad air components is to dilute them with adequate fresh air; filtering/scrubbing the same air over and over may remove particular "air particles", but it does not "purify the air"...for that "fresh air" is needed.

I like free CO2 and free cool air. Free is free.
 
I vent at night for piece of mind. It's only a 4 inch fan on a scrubber. Worth it IMO

Running organic soils and that whole deal is the main reason btw
 

Dankstang

Member
I am in the camp that brings in fresh air at night when my lights are on. I get "free CO2" in the 400-600 ppm range and use bottled CO2 to get to the 1200-1500 ppm range. The cool air also reduces the need for constant AC cooling, on cold nights (winter) the AC seldom is needed and usually is "on standby" (off).

Outside air also cools my lamps resulting in hoods that are "cool" and never get warm. Cool lamps, cool air...cool plants.

I am also in the camp that believes in proper air exchange. I vent my closed environment/grow chamber with fans sufficient to exchange the air (based on cfm) at the equivalent rate of around 13 times per hour--which works for me; during lights off the exhaust fan cycles on three times for 1/2 hour at a time.

Formula: Air Changes Per Hour = CFMx60 (fan rating) / Cubicfeet (room)

Assumptions:
Fan: 200 cfm
Room size 10' x 13' x 7' (width x length x height) = 910 cubic feet

Answer: 13.2 Air Changes Per Hour = (200 x 60)/910

With higher ceilings you also have a greater number of "cubic feet" which means more work for the exhaust fan(s). Greenhouse systems usually prefer 1-5 times air exchange per hour (summer vs winter rates)...but that is not a closed environment and that usually means 24/7.

I use electric dampers to close the exhaust duct when lights are on--no reason to let the CO2 escape. I made DIY filter boxes to filter the outside air as well, and everything exhausts up in my attic.

Air handling experts agree that, the best way to minimize bad air components is to dilute them with adequate fresh air; filtering/scrubbing the same air over and over may remove particular "air particles", but it does not "purify the air"...for that "fresh air" is needed.

I like free CO2 and free cool air. Free is free.

^^^ good stuff right there. electric dampers, diy filter boxes.
 

shredGnar

Member
I am in the camp that brings in fresh air at night when my lights are on. I get "free CO2" in the 400-600 ppm range and use bottled CO2 to get to the 1200-1500 ppm range. The cool air also reduces the need for constant AC cooling, on cold nights (winter) the AC seldom is needed and usually is "on standby" (off).

Outside air also cools my lamps resulting in hoods that are "cool" and never get warm. Cool lamps, cool air...cool plants.

I am also in the camp that believes in proper air exchange. I vent my closed environment/grow chamber with fans sufficient to exchange the air (based on cfm) at the equivalent rate of around 13 times per hour--which works for me; during lights off the exhaust fan cycles on three times for 1/2 hour at a time.

Formula: Air Changes Per Hour = CFMx60 (fan rating) / Cubicfeet (room)

Assumptions:
Fan: 200 cfm
Room size 10' x 13' x 7' (width x length x height) = 910 cubic feet

Answer: 13.2 Air Changes Per Hour = (200 x 60)/910

With higher ceilings you also have a greater number of "cubic feet" which means more work for the exhaust fan(s). Greenhouse systems usually prefer 1-5 times air exchange per hour (summer vs winter rates)...but that is not a closed environment and that usually means 24/7.

I use electric dampers to close the exhaust duct when lights are on--no reason to let the CO2 escape. I made DIY filter boxes to filter the outside air as well, and everything exhausts up in my attic.

Air handling experts agree that, the best way to minimize bad air components is to dilute them with adequate fresh air; filtering/scrubbing the same air over and over may remove particular "air particles", but it does not "purify the air"...for that "fresh air" is needed.

I like free CO2 and free cool air. Free is free.

This doesn't make any sense..

You also say you like free 400 ppm co2, but you run 1200 ppm bottled. How can you exhaust while running bottled co2?

You also say you close the exhaust to save your co2, but in your first paragraph you say you run exhaust at night when the lights are on..

The fact that you don't need to use your a/c during the winter is negligible considering the production increase
Gained by the plants. My extra yield pays for the extra electricity used by the a/c ten fold (probably more).

You do not have a "closed environment"with an exhaust fan..period. When you exchange air it is the opposite.

Can I see some quotes from your "air handling experts" who commented on exhausting grow rooms?

I can't believe that it would be better to exhaust all my conditioned air to draw in air from inside with god knows what kind of mold and mildew or whatever other Shit is floating around.

I wouldn't call ambient air "free co2"since it is not I'm the ppm range for maximum growth. To see any gain the ppms need to be higher than the ambient air. The whole reason I spent all the money on equipment so I don't have to deal with fans and ducting and less yields.

Not only are you drawing out your co2 but you're drawing out your humidity and other parameters that I work hard to achieve. By using exhaust your grow room is affected by outside factors such as temp and humidity. My room can be set for the perfect growth parameters any time of the year unaffected by outside conditions.

Point being you absolutely do not need any air exchange if you have the proper equipment.


Seems to me you are passing your misconceptions as facts because you misunderstand sealed rooms.
 
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shredGnar

Member
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Whatcha think Moses?? This room need to be exhausted?? Lol!

2+ per light all day..zero exhaust ever!
 

shredGnar

Member
If I'm being honest.. I don't even exhaust my veg room. Just a/c and a humidifier. Don't even add co2, no problems
 

moses wellfleet

Well-known member
Moderator
Veteran
If I'm being honest.. I don't even exhaust my veg room. Just a/c and a humidifier. Don't even add co2, no problems
lol, same here. I find I work in there so often plants get all the CO2 they need from my breathing. When I did try CO2 enrichment in veg, plants went crazy and growth was way too quick!
 

vostok

Active member
Veteran
Sure ...you can take the advise of these guys ^^^
and then wonder where all the mold have come from

or like most internal growers at lights off
maintain an airflow with outlet...
just to remove any excess humidity
radiated heat, or even bug farts,

but above all study up
STOMATA!
 
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