any hydro store or online hydro storeTheOneWill said:
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This is made of particle board copy it and build your own.
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It will work. My first vegiging cab was similar.
true, but the good thing about that type of material is it is easy to destroy if you need to quickly.octodiem said:
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Well unfortunately I dont have enough room for this cabinet right now the place i was going to put it is a few inches short. I am thinking know of maybe using a dresser or something similar. Might have to do away with my 400 and use the 250 and some flours for veg room. Ill snap some photos on what i plan to use thanks for all the tips and ideas ...ohh and killa that was nice design on your cabinet stay safe till next time PCE
dude . get the cab nit. How many inches clearance do you need?gbl357 said:
Cut the top or bottom off. The put it back on and glue it. Cut off whatever you need off the cab nit. Make sure you use a level so the line will be even all around . Do this on both pieces and then put the top back on
Do the same to the doors, which will be easy.
My cabnit was so big, I could not get it through my hall way. I had to cut the bottom half off so I could.
I then glued the top to the bottom with wood glue. And used brackets to secure it for safety
I then glued the top to the bottom with wood glue. And used brackets to secure it for safety
Big Bud Bear said:
ok ...ive proposed this 10000000000000 times, and no one gets it or has done it.
"bigbud" my bro!...your sooo close w/ your idea of the two cabs.
im gonna put it down in words one more time, but next time it will prolly be in pics.
ok...
-(2) c22 cabs
-throw away the doors
-build the 2 cabs, and put big ass castor wheels underneath both cabs
-put the (2) cabs face to face
-hinge one side
-locks on the other side
-the cab will swivel open and could easy house a 600 watter
....tons of mods needed to make it work, but i think its the best big cab option
i knew of this metthod from years ago reading on OG. I plan on doing this for my next run.NOKUY said:
Nice to see ya man! you in alaska? I'll be heading up their next spring. I would like to move up there someday.
You moving onto those c-22's?? Now that you are upgrading?
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Hello all good to see my topic still going strong big bear its not height its width, I know i could cut off some but if i was gonna do all that i guess i probably build my own. and truthfully im leaning that way! im gonna go look @ some 2nd hand stores today see if i see something usable i need it quite stealthy my wife gets nervous when i have things going inside cant blame her. We have a baby girl and 1 on the way next month not really worried bout smell some incense will take care of that just cant have a closet like im use too:{ but itll all work out have some nice beans going outside mandela#1 some menage a trois and some good bag seed so most likely i wont be empty handed this winter my plan was to take some cuttings and stick them inside be safe all..pce
gbl357 said:
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TheOneWill
:werd: I have to do that to the cab my self. But this is only gonna be for veg/flower cab. Because the veg box that I got is to small so I would have to move the plants to get bigger for about another month or so to scrog them. Then switch it to 12/12.Big Bud Bear said:dude . get the cab nit. How many inches clearance do you need?
Cut the top or bottom off. The put it back on and glue it. Cut off whatever you need off the cab nit. Make sure you use a level so the line will be even all around . Do this on both pieces and then put the top back on
Do the same to the doors, which will be easy.
Instead of being 48L-70h-24w
It will be 44L-68h-24w.
I'm gonna build it tomorrow.
Also should I put holes in the bottom of the cab? If so what should I do with the holes? Put some type of intake in there?
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TheOneWill said::werd: I have to do that to the cab my self. But this is only gonna be for veg/flower cab. Because the veg box that I got is to small so I would have to move the plants to get bigger for about another month or so to scrog them. Then switch it to 12/12.
Instead of being 48L-70h-24w
It will be 44L-68h-24w.
I'm gonna build it tomorrow.
Also should I put holes in the bottom of the cab? If so what should I do with the holes? Put some type of intake in there?
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Ok I got a problem, the ballast is build in the light fixture and it only has an exhaust vent on one side. (the side that the light is on) Is that ok or will the ballast get to hot and I've have to cool it down?
might get too hot.TheOneWill said:
what hps is it?
you should be exhausting your entire cab. So they should cool it down..
i bought the same cab had a 400w in a air cooled hood and a 4inch carbon scrubber tucked above the hood. i removed the center devider cut out most of the top shelf left some for stability hung my hood scrubber few fans and house 10 - 2 gal grow bags n/p. i used the stanely blower fan modded http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=29341 i exhausted the light into the attick pulled air from outside cab through hood into attick. the carbon scrubber had a 95 cfm blower fan for it, temps in my cab stayed 82-83 1ft below 400w hps light. lights run at night my summers get 110+ easy the cab provided some great nugs now i have a new 5x7 closet and a loaner 1k in a cooltube hooked upto my stanelygbl357 said:Hi all I was just wondering if anybody has used this cabinet from lowes looks like it would be good for a dual cab plus the top shelf to store ballast and things like that. I know its a particle board pos but...with some caulking the corner to keep water out off the bare wood it might hold up. any feed back would be helpfull I have a 250 hps and a air cooled 400 hps THANKS.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?acti...uctId=83870-444-WS48MP&detail=desc&lpage=none
. in my sugar shack grow log you'll see my trail's and tribulations with the cab, i started with a loaned 400w self contained ballast and went to the air cooled hood and remote ballast 400w hps. hood carbon scrubber fit nicely together when my light was raised all the way i had 40inch from bottom of hood to cabs floor. that cab is great for indica dom strains sativa doms may have height issues
you could either remote that ballast it unbolts ya need some extra wire same thickness {gauge} as whats hooked to the socket. the link orama link in my sig has a tutorial for remote ballast DYI. or if the side vent is screwed on go to local hydro store get the ducting attachment or even buy 1 from hardware store and hook up an exhaust fan like the stanely.TheOneWill said:
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This is the light.
The first vent is on the top where the ballast is.
The second vent is above the light reflector.
The third vent is on the side where the light is.
Heres a pic. It's a 420watt hps light.
Yes I know, I need to clean it up.
But do I need the scrub the air that exhaust from the light or only from the cab exhaust?
I will be using the Stanley blower for exhaust or should I use a lower cfm?
If so what cfm speer should I use or if you can please give me a range.
Also where should I put the intake fans on the side or on the top of the cab?
Or should I buy some small portable fans and put them at the bottom for air circulation?
If yall want I'll do a drawing on that I plan on doing.
The first vent is on the top where the ballast is.
The second vent is above the light reflector.
The third vent is on the side where the light is.
Heres a pic. It's a 420watt hps light.
Yes I know, I need to clean it up.
But do I need the scrub the air that exhaust from the light or only from the cab exhaust?
I will be using the Stanley blower for exhaust or should I use a lower cfm?
If so what cfm speer should I use or if you can please give me a range.
Also where should I put the intake fans on the side or on the top of the cab?
Or should I buy some small portable fans and put them at the bottom for air circulation?
If yall want I'll do a drawing on that I plan on doing.
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