I think that by providing the water lower in the hole, rather than at the surface,will make alot of difference in how efficently the water is used.
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Dry summer guerillas! How do you provide irrigation?
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I think that by providing the water lower in the hole, rather than at the surface,will make alot of difference in how efficently the water is used.
"I did tests in one of the tree planters I was working with a while back, using cotton rope."
Could you please elaborate on this or point me in the right direction? Ive been seriously thinking of ways to grow plants in containers in trees. Watering them is the bigggest problem. As well as being able to access the plants.
Great thread. I myself use the polymer crystals. I also put a very thick layer of pine straw (cause its all over the ground anyway) around my plants. That and dig the hole deep are all ive got for ya. Its not so dry here that resevoirs and elaborate pumps are necessary. Though i do like the idea of a rain barrel or a tarp. :smile:
Could you please elaborate on this or point me in the right direction? Ive been seriously thinking of ways to grow plants in containers in trees. Watering them is the bigggest problem. As well as being able to access the plants.
Great thread. I myself use the polymer crystals. I also put a very thick layer of pine straw (cause its all over the ground anyway) around my plants. That and dig the hole deep are all ive got for ya. Its not so dry here that resevoirs and elaborate pumps are necessary. Though i do like the idea of a rain barrel or a tarp. :smile:
alaeddin
Member
Great ideas people, we are talking the same language here. I toyed with many designs in my mind last spring but in the end ended up with covering the soil with aluminum foil. I coverew the aluminum with leaves and I think it helped save water, because my plants survived three weeks in a smallish container in hot summer weather with no precipitation.
I think the idea of putting up a plastic sheet between trees like an antenna would be very nice, it could be made stealthy by doing it between dense trees and using transparent or any color suitable to the environment.
Another hint, use plants that are already adapted to hot dry weathers.
I think the idea of putting up a plastic sheet between trees like an antenna would be very nice, it could be made stealthy by doing it between dense trees and using transparent or any color suitable to the environment.
Another hint, use plants that are already adapted to hot dry weathers.
bw420 said:
B-dub, the current issue of Heads magazine has an article on growing in trees, bro. We've all seen it before and it was flame-war material at Overgrow pretty consistently, but this article has great pics and is written by a guy who has successfully grown in trees for years.
Tree growing
Tree growing
^^Heres a link to my tree growing thread, I have never tried growing in a tree yet, but I put alot of thought into the tools that could be used to do it, provided you want something more than just a planter in a tree.
I developed a effctive way of watering plant in a tree and other ideas for making the job easier.
Feel free to continue discussing tree growing there.
Tree growing
^^Heres a link to my tree growing thread, I have never tried growing in a tree yet, but I put alot of thought into the tools that could be used to do it, provided you want something more than just a planter in a tree.
I developed a effctive way of watering plant in a tree and other ideas for making the job easier.
Feel free to continue discussing tree growing there.
Yeah, posting that in this thread seemed to inspire him to start that fiasco of a thread. I didn't doubt the Borax could be used, but I saw little reason why since so many organic and much mellower sources were available.
I also found it interesting where I asked him if used any of his advise outdoors, and he wouldn't answer the question!
I assumed from early on that he did't actually grow, and was just a fairly smart guy, who meant well, trying to make freinds online. Actually being a grower gives you street credit, and that gives your advise more value.
I hope the whole Sproutco thing would end for good, it kinda turned into a witch hunt, some folks have just been Trolling him bad, I've even noticed some of this sites "staff" kinda crossing the line. I think Sproutco should do the right thing and close his account, and come back as someone different.
I also found it interesting where I asked him if used any of his advise outdoors, and he wouldn't answer the question!
I assumed from early on that he did't actually grow, and was just a fairly smart guy, who meant well, trying to make freinds online. Actually being a grower gives you street credit, and that gives your advise more value.
I hope the whole Sproutco thing would end for good, it kinda turned into a witch hunt, some folks have just been Trolling him bad, I've even noticed some of this sites "staff" kinda crossing the line. I think Sproutco should do the right thing and close his account, and come back as someone different.
M
mossy
Amazing tree growing link... 
I guess you have your mission for this summer, have fun!!Gantz said:
Jack D Ripper
Member
this thread is really interesting. Im going to try an outdoor wick grow next summer, what do you think of this plan?
Ill be using a $13, 50 yd. spool of "water wick"
Im going to cut the wick into 150 one foot segments and feed them through holes in a 8 in. diameter PVC pipe. The pipe will be about 15 feet long, so it should hold almost 40 gallons of water. Then Ill bury the pipe about 2 ft deep with all the holes and wicks facing up. The "8 inch draw" on the wicks should keep the soil around the pipe moist enough, and Ill refill it though the green hose every few weeks.
any suggestions?
Ill be using a $13, 50 yd. spool of "water wick"
Im going to cut the wick into 150 one foot segments and feed them through holes in a 8 in. diameter PVC pipe. The pipe will be about 15 feet long, so it should hold almost 40 gallons of water. Then Ill bury the pipe about 2 ft deep with all the holes and wicks facing up. The "8 inch draw" on the wicks should keep the soil around the pipe moist enough, and Ill refill it though the green hose every few weeks.
any suggestions?
J
Jebus11
With this way you would prolly need some pvc to make the totes not air tight.
Hey guys!
If you are interested in the latest therorys on guerrilla irrigation, please check out the earthbox type planters in this thread-
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=23910&page=5&pp=15
I'm more partial to this style of wicking rather than using rope wicks, but all is iteresting!
If you are interested in the latest therorys on guerrilla irrigation, please check out the earthbox type planters in this thread-
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=23910&page=5&pp=15
I'm more partial to this style of wicking rather than using rope wicks, but all is iteresting!
can polymers provide most or all the addition water needed?
can polymers provide most or all the addition water needed?
Very Helpful Post.
http://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/8598-water-absorbent-polymers.html
if 3 tablespoons of polymers can *aid a plant during 60 days of drought... can a larger amount of polymers provide all the necessary water for a plant?
every polymer guide so far mentions to use a tablespoon or so of polymer for a plant... why not more? they can't overwater, they can't drown roots, and they can also stored hydro-nutrient mixed water.. so the fertilizer is right there also.
How about this idea..
Soak the polymers in water+nute mix, and use as the sole or primary medium. This would be like a DWC bucket, with the addition of air spaces (or perlite, etc) for the roots to have oxygen.
(some organic material or soil could aid in micro-organisms, buffering ph, and other processes)
The polymers could be layered, so that the lower layers of polymer had a higher PPM of nutes, so the plant would have more nutrients as it grows.
Another idea is if the water-nutrient solution is oxygenated - will the soaked polymers store the additional oxygen content?
Questions are:
What rate do the polymers release stored water?
This page mentions that the more dissolved solids, the less water will be help by the polymers. (1 pound can hold 35 gallons of distilled water, or 20-25 gallons of tap water)
http://www.stevespanglerscience.com/experiment/water-jelly-crystals-superabsorbent-polymers
can polymers provide most or all the addition water needed?
Very Helpful Post.
http://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/8598-water-absorbent-polymers.html
if 3 tablespoons of polymers can *aid a plant during 60 days of drought... can a larger amount of polymers provide all the necessary water for a plant?
every polymer guide so far mentions to use a tablespoon or so of polymer for a plant... why not more? they can't overwater, they can't drown roots, and they can also stored hydro-nutrient mixed water.. so the fertilizer is right there also.
How about this idea..
Soak the polymers in water+nute mix, and use as the sole or primary medium. This would be like a DWC bucket, with the addition of air spaces (or perlite, etc) for the roots to have oxygen.
(some organic material or soil could aid in micro-organisms, buffering ph, and other processes)
The polymers could be layered, so that the lower layers of polymer had a higher PPM of nutes, so the plant would have more nutrients as it grows.
Another idea is if the water-nutrient solution is oxygenated - will the soaked polymers store the additional oxygen content?
Questions are:
What rate do the polymers release stored water?
This page mentions that the more dissolved solids, the less water will be help by the polymers. (1 pound can hold 35 gallons of distilled water, or 20-25 gallons of tap water)
http://www.stevespanglerscience.com/experiment/water-jelly-crystals-superabsorbent-polymers
Just reading a bit, it seems that water-crystals can potentially cause problems if there are too many.
Reading about Zeba product, which is a water-holding 'crystal', based on cornstarch (glucose chains) instead of petroleum. It is food safe, and biodegradable.
It is based on GM corn (though the GM material is cooked above 150*C during processing, so there should be no biologically-active life left (aside from the GM crops of corn they come from) http://************/yawbsj2 )
They have a lot of information on their site.
Q. Will increased moisture near the root structure cause root rot?
A. As Zeba granules expand and contract to a volume size determined by water availability, they separate soil particles, providing roots oxygen and potentially decreasing the probability of plants developing root rot.
So that is an issue, unless oxygen could be supplied to the root zone. Without getting into forced-air pumps, using water-crystals as the primary medium might not be feasible.
Still, the crystals could be applied in a few horizontal layers, so the majority of rootzone isn't in contact with them.
Reading about Zeba product, which is a water-holding 'crystal', based on cornstarch (glucose chains) instead of petroleum. It is food safe, and biodegradable.
It is based on GM corn (though the GM material is cooked above 150*C during processing, so there should be no biologically-active life left (aside from the GM crops of corn they come from) http://************/yawbsj2 )
They have a lot of information on their site.
Q. Will increased moisture near the root structure cause root rot?
A. As Zeba granules expand and contract to a volume size determined by water availability, they separate soil particles, providing roots oxygen and potentially decreasing the probability of plants developing root rot.
So that is an issue, unless oxygen could be supplied to the root zone. Without getting into forced-air pumps, using water-crystals as the primary medium might not be feasible.
Still, the crystals could be applied in a few horizontal layers, so the majority of rootzone isn't in contact with them.
bagada
Member
the best way for me is to grow on a steep mountain because 1. nobody will go there. 2. it wont be expected that anyone grows there because of its hard access. then just make a rain catch with a tarp...ive tried it and i got 3 gallons overnight with only a 4/8 foot tarp. thats way better than hauling three gallons up a steep hill. then u just go to the spot and water..simple, effective. owe, and you can camo the tarp by 1. put it under a group of trees. 2. spray paint black. 3. use industrial adheasive to glue leaves and bark to the tarp...its very hard to spot after this
I pipe water from a small creek nearby with 1/2" poly pipe and use a battery operated garden timer and 2gph drip emitters to feed the plants each day. As the summer gets warmer I can adjust the length of time that the timer is open for so they get as much water as they need through the drought months.
This year we barely have any snowpack compared to a normal year so I'm not sure what my little creek is going to do, it could dry out. If that's the case I'll have to run another 700' of waterline or so, then bury it and cover it to keep animals and people from coming across it.
This year we barely have any snowpack compared to a normal year so I'm not sure what my little creek is going to do, it could dry out. If that's the case I'll have to run another 700' of waterline or so, then bury it and cover it to keep animals and people from coming across it.
HIMALAYAN GANJA
Member
swamp tubes can be ut in a swamp or aywhere with standing water or constat moisture in the soil. think about it its THE simplest way of growing in dry summer conditions without having to haul water. it doesnt get any easier then swamp tubes
