Dr. Mantis Toboggan's Perpetual Tent of Wonder, Dreams, Highs, Lows, Enemies, Friends, and Maybe - Just Maybe - Even You

[LG/]

I thought build a soil was similar to supersoil where it was supposed to provide alot of the nutrients... at least in my experience any decent soil has plenty of nutes through early veg. imo your making it overcomplicated. I wouldn't feed, they all look like they have yellow burnt tips. Adding more nutes could be causing lockout. Imbalance of nutrients...
Imho, plain water. And keep them at least somewhat wet at all times, for me usually watering every 3 days, for you could be as much as every other. And using quite abit of water. Don't let them fully dry out at all. Imo.

 

[LG/]

The only one that concerns me is the back right. Looks like some sort of lockout maybe?
With molassis less is more. Every watering is way to much, once a week max. Plus a small amount, like 1 tsp per gallon.
Molassis drops the ph of the water if I recall, could be causing lockout in the back right plant. And lockout shows the same as a deficiency. Because it is the same conceptually. Lack of availability, even though it's there the plant can't use it.

 

[Dr. Mantis Toboggan]

Yeah - the most molasses I've given is once a week. I didn't measure, but it's probably within the realm of a tsp or so per gallon.

 

[blondie]

Your espoma veg feed is something I’ve just discovered. That along with the bloom feed liquid. I’ve been wondering about using this during bloom. Just starting to look into this though.

Yes most any decent soil can get you mostly through veg. Highly likely though growing under LEDs you will need calcium.

Water ph should be along with the quality report.

 

[rindindoo]

You can use LG/ recommendations - water with clean water, it is safer, but it may take more time to find out the reason for the slow growth. if it is a lockout then the plant will recover after a certain time, and if there is a deficiency then you will see the corresponding signs.
I'll tell you a story, maybe it will be useful. When I first built the mother room, I grew the mother bushes in peat mixtures, in small pots, from 0.5 l to 2 l. When the plant ate everything available, I fed it with mineral fertilizers, but at some point the plant began to look something like your GG #4, I continued to pour fertilizers but they did not produce results, then I realized that it was a lockout. Replanting helped, but it was very inconvenient, then I found a way out, I began to feed the plants by pouring fertilizer into the tray for the pot, and poured only clean water from the top, everything worked like clockwork.
Good luck, Doc!

 

[laszlokovacs]

dood u can easily put way too much molasses in pots indoors. I've killed a couple plants in <.5g containers after a couple molasses waterings @ 1tbsp/gal. Not saying thats exactly whats wrong with your plants but I would suggest you stop doing so indefinitely or until this run is over. Glad your fertilizing that is much needed, should be enough N in your supersoil if you keep it wet

If clones are cheap and available for you just buy a new one and a bag of all purpose potting mix at the big box store and stick and stick it in the tent with the others. Like 6$ + clone cost and compare with your other plants what gives you the best result as a beginner, if your going to get rid of the male, put in a new plant!

Looking forward to seeing pics in flower, if you only have 3ft of vertical tent space you might not want to wait much longer to flip!

 

[Dr. Mantis Toboggan]

Continued LSTing the Panama and MN Tangie clones. The Panama clone was praying today, which I think is a first for me in my tent! It was a pleasant surprise, and a good change of pace.

@blondie, I was really surprised that the pH wasn't included in the water quality report. It had the PPM of everything, but no pH in sight.

Interesting technique, @rindindoo. Luckily, it seems *knocks on wood* that the plant is heading in the right direction.

@laszlokovacs, good to know re: molasses. It just feels so innocent, but I'm learning one must use it sparingly. I last used it on the 28th of October. The clones were kind of spendy. I'm actually debating right now if I want to throw out some mothers to make room for new varieties from seed for my next plants. I might wait until sexing the Blueberry F5 to make that decision, as I could always throw one of the other 3 mothers into flower.

My tent is 6 ft tall (though I obviously can't put my light quite that high), and I'm actually thinking about lollipopping and flipping to flower in the next 2-3 weeks, assuming that my plants continue looking healthier.

 

[Dr. Mantis Toboggan]

Yo - happy weekend to everyone!

Continued LSTing Panama today.

Here is the new growth on my clones:

GG #4:

MN Tangie:

Blueberry F5:

Panama:

 

[Hasch]

Looks like you are nursing the young gals back to health

 

[Creeperpark]

Yo - happy weekend to everyone!

Continued LSTing Panama today.

Here is the new growth on my clones:

GG #4:

View attachment 18917187

MN Tangie:

View attachment 18917188

Blueberry F5:

View attachment 18917189

Panama:

View attachment 18917190

The tops look like they are chloric from iron chlorosis. The pH is creeping upward locking out iron.

 

[Entusia]

The tops look like they are chloric from iron chlorosis. The pH is creeping upward locking out iron.

I see it the opposite way: pH to me looks like is creeping downwards.

Yellow interveinal = Iron deficiency.
Bronze from the base of the new leaves = Iron toxicity.

See pictures:



But i'm also pretty sure i'm wrong and you're right ...
Can you help me understand how and where i'm wrong?
Thanks buddy

 

[Creeperpark]

I see it the opposite way: pH to me looks like is creeping downwards.

Yellow interveinal = Iron deficiency.
Bronze from the base of the new leaves = Iron toxicity.

See pictures:
View attachment 18917191


But i'm also pretty sure i'm wrong and you're right ...
Can you help me understand how and where i'm wrong?
Thanks buddy

When the pH drops too low the leaf edges will bronze from the excess hydrogen in the acid. The higher hydrogen will release more nutrients causing a burn.

 

[Entusia]

When the pH drops too low the leaf edges will bronze from the excess hydrogen in the acid. The higher hydrogen will release more nutrients causing a burn.

Yes that's basically what i was saying, you can see plenty of burnt edges and tips, some clawing and what have you. Those definitely can't be from the light.

I'm mainly talking about the GG#4 and Blueberry F5.

 

[Creeperpark]

Yellowing tops lack chlorophyll in the center and acidic pH is on the outer leaf edges.

What Causes Iron Chlorosis? Iron chlorosis happens when plants can't bring enough iron to their leaves and fail to produce the green pigment in chlorophyll. The source of the problem is in the soil. A simple iron deficiency in the dirt itself may be the cause, or it could be from soils that are too alkaline.

What is the main cause of chlorosis?

Chlorosis is typically caused when leaves do not have enough nutrients to synthesize all the chlorophyll they need. It can be brought about by a combination of factors including a specific mineral deficiency in the soil, such as iron, magnesium, or zinc. deficient nitrogen and/or proteins. Alkaline soils google

 

[Dr. Mantis Toboggan]

The Blueberry F5's soil's pH is at about 7.8, while the GG #4 is at a 6.9/7.

 

[linde]

Just curious can u post a pic of your pH tester?

 

[Dr. Mantis Toboggan]

Just curious can u post a pic of your pH tester?

 

[linde]

I don't want to be the bearer of bad news but those testers are not accurate at all. U can get those digital testers that test runoff for around $10 or less with more accurate readings. Without an accurate pH tester it's all a crap shoot.

 

[linde]

Spend $30 on one of these and you won't regret it. Accurate to .01 pH point. Works with soil or liquid. Trust me on this one. Either of the cheap ones on the right are worth a shit.

 

[Dr. Mantis Toboggan]

LST'd the all clones except the GG #4. Also LST'd the Blueberry F5 mother. The GG #4 clone is a bit taller than the rest and would be quite difficult to continue LSTing. I'm therefore thinking about topping it. What do you think? Things to consider:

• I'm planning on flowering in 1-2 weeks.
• I intend on lollipopping around the schedule change.
• There's still the concern regarding the plant's health.
• It has alternating nodes, so I'm guessing it won't form 2 shoots. That's not too big of a deal in my eyes, as I'm doing it to keep its height under control. Any concerns here?

As always, thank all of you for riding along, for the input, and for the silliness!