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DIY Nutrients formulations, recipes, chemistry etc.

AWDTERROR

Member
Is the need for a PK Boost one of those hydro myths your talking about?

Also, using RO is there enough trace elements or would Jacks Mix of Soluable trace mix be a good addition.
 

glow

Active member
Glow, The fertilizer analysis you just send them a sample of your reservoir mixed, correct?
That's a really good idea. I understand the ratios a bit but definitely not enough. I can have it sent in and post the results here if you guys are willing to look it over.
Just so its known I have been using the jacks @ 1/.67 ratio or 360ppm jacks / 240ppm calnit. I have read many different mixes what do you think is the best.

Xxxst8edgexxx very interested in that single concentration stock solution. Would love to hear more. is the calnit included in that single concentration.

I spend thousands a month on nutrients I'm so exited to see the hydro guys face when I say I'm all good on nutrients this time.
Such a great thread.

Yes just send them a sample from the reservoir and no I would not create a single part stock solution if you are wanting to create a hydro industry like concentrate nutrient for diluting into the res. Better to go 2 part and separate elements like calcium and sulphates (Ca and S bond.join to form gypsum) in 2 bottles of stock concentrate. I'll be putting info up on my site soon about mixing stock concentrates but very busy at the moment writing so that one will need to wait.
 

glow

Active member
Is the need for a PK Boost one of those hydro myths your talking about?

Also, using RO is there enough trace elements or would Jacks Mix of Soluable trace mix be a good addition.

P is certainly overused by hydro growers but to generalize, PK additives aren't a myth given the way things are handled by the hydro industry because there are actually about 5 different stages that require somewhat different NPK ratios and hydro nutes provide 2 NPK ratios. So tweaking P and K by lifting it during full bloom (swelling/bulking) etc is beneficial. In fact the only additives I tend to recommend are PK additives and silica along with a root stimulant for early grow to help the plants settle in and get them off to a good start. However, if you understand nutrient formulation you also understand that all the nutrient tweaks are made through mixing during the crop cycle and not through adding this or that additive. If a hydro industry pleb were to show up on an Ag set up and talk the shit they talk to completely non formally educated weed growers they'd be laughed off the property (if not physically removed for their sheer stupidity). Again you need to start visiting academic sites (not forums) for scientifically sound (researched and tested) info.
 

AWDTERROR

Member
Ya I was pretty sure you couldn't make a single stock solution.

What would you suggest using to lift the p and k values, and in your opinion what is the proper time to do so.
 

glow

Active member
Ya I was pretty sure you couldn't make a single stock solution.

What would you suggest using to lift the p and k values, and in your opinion what is the proper time to do so.

You can make a single stock solution if you use the right ingredients but it is far easier to just create an A and B. I never recommend products - PK additives are dead easy to make.

My advice to you AWDTERROR because you are well out of your league (not to offend but it is patently obvious you aren't skilled up on nutrient formulation science) is you should speak to a custom formulator or pay a consultant to advise. Seems to me if you are doing grows with 40K etc you should both have the money and invest wisely before things go pear shaped because you enter a world of uncertainty through formulating on a bit of this and a bit of that equals no idea really. Again, no offence meant but formulation isn't for novices - it involves a reasonably sound education and understanding of the chemistry.
 
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AWDTERROR

Member
ok no worries. The nutrient profile was never my strong suit, that's why I am trying to learn. I was planning on taking some courses as well as paying an agronomist to create a custom mix as things continue to progress and I get more locations. Ill just stick to the Jacks for now. Thank again.
 

MrBungle

Well-known member
I use a stock solution, and my 3 additives are ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate, and mono potassium phosphate, I use 1, 2 or all three of these additives depending on the stage of life the plant is in
 
How is it working out for you? I used the bloom mix from Fatman (I think) it needs some failing in, I was wondering what others are doing.

What do you use for early bloom? Mr. Bungle
 

MrBungle

Well-known member
I start with what I use in veg,, just the amm sulf...then I add in the MKP with it after 10-14 days depending on what the girls tell me... then after 21-28 days I add in the Pot Sulf... for a couple weeks..then i cut out the amm sulf and just use the other 2.. till i just cut it all out and give her a gulp of fresh water for the last week or 2
 

BillFarthing

Active member
Veteran
How does this formulation look for a bloom nute?

NPK 1:0.61:1.5
Ca:Mg 1:.33

A - Iron EDTA Fe(EDTA) 145.593
A - Calcium Nitrate (Tetrahydrate) Ca(NO3)2.4H2O 3059.594
A - Potassium Nitrate KNO3 1259.891
B - Manganese Sulfate (Monohydrate) MnSO4.H2O 29.115
B - Copper Sulfate (pentahydrate) CuSO4.5H2O 7.437
B - Sodium Molybdate (Dihydrate) Na2MoO4.2H2O 0.043
B - Zinc Sulfate (Dihydrate) ZnSO4.2H2O 28.582
B - Potassium Monobasic Phosphate KH2PO4 631.294
B - Magnesium Sulfate (Heptahydrate) MgSO4.7H2O 1746.818
B - Boric Acid H3BO3 54.133

ic
 
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Andyo

Active member
Veteran
This was asked, but never really answered in the Maxibloom thread:

Originally Posted by PointofNoReturn
On topic of Maxi Bloom. How come theres no other One Part Powder Fertilizer like it. I just spend like 2 hours searching google for a professional Fertilizer containing both Ca and Ma, i didnt found a single one. Nearly all professional grade fertilizers are without any Ca at all, mostly base mixes + Ca Nitrate.

Dyna-Gro, Ionic, Maxi Bloom/Grow and several others have a 1-part.
How do they make these combos w/o having precipitate ?
CB

Its called acid magnesium phospate bond.A
 

AWDTERROR

Member
Any input on this for coco multi-feed in small pots.?.?

NO3 150
NH4 5
P 50
K 100
Mg 60
Ca 100
S 15
Fe 3
Zn 0.15
B 0.5
Mn 0.5
Cu 0.15
Mo 0.1
Na 0
SiO2 0
Cl 0

Thanks
 

MoPho

Member
My favorite place to get individual salts if you are in the US is http://customhydronutrients.com/zencart/. All you have to do is tell the owner what elemental ppms you want to run and he will work out a formula for you. Or if you would prefer he will make a recommend that will work great...you could tweak from there based on your particular strain.

Tell him Yo sent you if you decide to write.

For the record I use something very close to 3-1-4-2.2-1 N-P-K-Ca-Mg and it works better than any hydro store formula I ever used.

edit...I am spending about 2.5 cents per gallon vs around 20 cents when I was using GH products. And I want to emphasize my results in both yield and quantity have improved significantly.

edit dos...when you get the formula of your fav bottled nute it will at least have an NPK and hopefully Ca and Mg along with a derived from section. If you get those the micros are pretty standard anyways.

But the truth is the bottled formulas aren't really that good anyway...everyone of them I have seen has too much P. I think you are better off starting somewhere around 3-1-4 (elemental, not P2O5 and K2O)...that will work and then you can make adjustments from that based on what you see to optimize your own results.

And Mullray is definitely right about avoiding Cl salts. Cl is essential but in micro levels. Using it at higher levels, as in CaCl, will give you toxic levels...just like if you used too much Fe or Mn.



Just wanted to know what N-P-K ratios people are trying to hit. I heard/read many different targets. So I wanted some inputs especially for coco DTW.

1-1-2
3-1-4
2-1-2

Right now I did a quick calculation with 1 part MB and 5 parts MG

169.5N
53.5P
215K
41.66Mg
107.8Ca
NPK ratio of 3.16-1-4.0 (target of 3-1-4)
KCaMg ratio of 4-2-.77 (target of 3-2-1)

By adding 1g/gal of epsom brings the numbers to

169.5N
53.5P
215K
67.66Mg
107.8Ca
NPK ratio of 3.16-1-4.0 (target of 3-1-4)
KCaMg ratio of 3.17-1.59-1 (target of 3-2-1)
NPKCaMg Ratio of 3-1-4-2-1.26
I've heard that these ratios are good from veg all the way through to finish.

What about adding some old school HammerHead 9/18 for early flower (week 2 through 5) and then MOAB 52/32 (week 5 (in conjunction with HH), then only MOAB from week 6 till flush) for late?

Should I have a different ratio for veg, early, and late flowering?
Any thoughts/inputs/suggestions?
 
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themills

New member
Any input on this for coco multi-feed in small pots.?.?

NO3 150
NH4 5
P 50
K 100
Mg 60
Ca 100
S 15
Fe 3
Zn 0.15
B 0.5
Mn 0.5
Cu 0.15
Mo 0.1
Na 0
SiO2 0
Cl 0

Thanks

Mg, K, and P are low. and Sulfur is VERY low. Your N and P should be much closer and essentially equal in grow and in bloom push P higher, and Mg, especially in Coco
 

Only Ornamental

Spiritually inspired agnostic mad scientist
Veteran
What's about not using the at all? Cause they are fille with herbicides and residues thereof. Back when I was a child there was the believe that smoking banana peel "threads" (those filament-like fibres in the peel) makes you high. Allegedly, people truly got high... from all the agrochemicals within as these are said to accumulate such stuff.
I use them on roses. For one, roses love them as fertiliser and my roses aren't meant for eating and already get a bunch of chemistry to stay health.
 
What's about not using the at all? Cause they are fille with herbicides and residues thereof. Back when I was a child there was the believe that smoking banana peel "threads" (those filament-like fibres in the peel) makes you high. Allegedly, people truly got high... from all the agrochemicals within as these are said to accumulate such stuff.
I use them on roses. For one, roses love them as fertiliser and my roses aren't meant for eating and already get a bunch of chemistry to stay health.

about pesticedes&co.
do you think they are there after months of drying under the sun (and some long wash bcz of days of rain) and after i burn them and soak in the water that will be half evaporated ???

and more...if they still there, do they damage the effect or the flavour of my buds (or even my health)??

i don't smoke ...i just use Volcano:thank you:
 
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