M
MicroDude
If the V is a sound design ill be building it this weekend. Id love to see how you built the frame.
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DIY: A new angle on light proof vents
- Thread starter ScrubNinja
- Start date
I don't really have the indoors or hermie experience to say how the V will handle things, MicroDude. I ended up not finishing that cab so I haven't even used my own design, lulz. But if it's just a straight one room cab and it's in a dark room or up against a wall, I would use the V personally. If it's the only thing between a veg and flower chamber, I would go with the Z for sure.
M
MicroDude
If I can make this work I can use a multiple chamber system. I dont honestly think a minor glow will herm any plants. The moon is more than a glow. Although why take a chance... I can use the V on the outside vent and the Z on the wall that divides the chambers. I just need to come up with something. ATM I have to use my mother chamber as a light trap because my previous concept failed. my temps hit 111* heh I have them down to 84* now.
I hope the pic's are ok. I don't have a very good camera. But then again, it gets the point across and I don't plan on entering any photo contests, either. lol
One thing that will make this go a bit easier, in my humble opinion, is, take your time. Neatness counts, but not at the expense of safety, because this stuff is sharp. If you find yourself getting frustrated, aggravated, or pissed-off stop what you are doing and go burn one. Get a cup of coffee. Watch an episode of "The Andy Griffith Show," whatever it takes to just zone out until you're ready to go at it again.
For the sake of convenience, I am going to make the framework for a 4" X 4" louver/baffle/trap.
I cut the three pieces of cornerbead to a length of 16-1/2 inches (two for the framework and one for the mounting bracket). You can see that in the manufacturing process of the cornerbead there are even rows of dimples for the drywall mud to cover more surface area to provide additional holding power. So, I measured over about a half inch and counted four rows at the half inch mark. Using that as guide, I cut the excess off and filed off any burrs or exceptionally sharp edges.
Then made four cuts 4" apart. That left me with a 1/2" "tab" (3/4" may be a better length for the tab) I can bend over for the self-drilling/self-tapping/zip screws (you can use sheet metal screws or pop-rivets but you will have to pre-drill the holes). Made the bends and screwed it together. Repeat!
Note the screw at the top of the frame. Take this into consideration when you are ready to install the louvers.
The mounting bracket was cut the same length (16-1/2"), but not trimmed. The four 4" cuts are opened up instead of folded in on itself and the tab is screwed to the end of the bracket. Place the bracket around the frame and use two screws on each of two opposing sides. (The following pic is for the 8" X 8", but serves as a visual aid.)
Also, I forget to mention in my previous "parts list" post, I doubled up the felt and is the reason you should get two rolls, and a sharp pair of heavy duty scissors. One thing to watch out for is any felt that protrudes out from the stacked fins/Z's/slats/baffles or whatever you want to call them as that will interfere with the framework.
I should have posted this the first time, thanks for the push, MicroDude! Good luck!
Namaste, mess
Edit: When I made the 8" X 8", I did a lot of dry fitting. It was 8-1/2" tall without the framework. But, the felt gave me a margin of error, so I could "mash" it all together, creating a tighter fit.
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M
MicroDude
Nice work. This will be easy to replicate now. Thanks for taking the time.
FWIW...this company makes louver door partitions. They use the V shape when light is not an issue. For full on dark room louvers they use the W style.
Figuring free flow for these same as others...
gap width in inches x gap height in inches x number of gaps= free flow in sq inches.
THis holds basically true for all shapes, as long as the gap remains the same it matters not how many turns in the shape. Although there is a very slight loss of flow at every corner of the shape, it is not enough to even consider for calculation sake.
Figuring free flow for these same as others...
gap width in inches x gap height in inches x number of gaps= free flow in sq inches.
THis holds basically true for all shapes, as long as the gap remains the same it matters not how many turns in the shape. Although there is a very slight loss of flow at every corner of the shape, it is not enough to even consider for calculation sake.
lol...
turn it over and it's a W
I read where a computer figures best case and it comes out a single four flap W at a certain degree of angle with specified length legs. My money is on 45deg
turn it over and it's a W
I read where a computer figures best case and it comes out a single four flap W at a certain degree of angle with specified length legs. My money is on 45deg
M
MicroDude
Anybody know where to buy that shape of angle? All I could find were V and a square.
You could try angle brackets and screw/pop rivet them together. Sort of like this: AVA (lol...or VAV). But I would suggest a thin bead of black silicone caulk to seal where the A's (or V's) meet.
Edit: The 1" angle is about 1-3/8" at its widest point. So, you might want to consider using 3/4" stock. Putting it all together would be a bit time consuming, but I think it would be well worth the effort.
Always with the inspiration! Thanks, HD!
Namaste, mess
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Mk3, fantastic bro, I'll continue watching 
About obtaining the other angles, My plan is to tack weld standard angle butted together. I have some friends that can weld aluminium.
About obtaining the other angles, My plan is to tack weld standard angle butted together. I have some friends that can weld aluminium.
Cheers Kin, I hope it treats you well. Your case design is kicking ass
For anyone interested in the original design, Superpedro did a really nice job with his a couple of days ago.
For anyone interested in the original design, Superpedro did a really nice job with his a couple of days ago.
dymaxion grow
Member
It would be awesome to make a micro growbox completely out of these vents. Just suck out the heat and odor out the top.
HAAH!!! That's fantastic.
I ended up using my vent in my new clone cab.
I ended up using my vent in my new clone cab.
I said would take another stab at using the "Light Trap Air Vents", that "Scrubninja" designed. My first try didn't work to well mainly because I changed the V fin design to a Z fin design thinking it would work better, but sadly no. It worked as trap light 100%, but had poor air flow at the outside of the exhaust fan of my pc case causing heat build up. So now I've taken that same Z fin light trap I made and with a razor knife carefully cut the back third of the trap off changing it from a Z light trap to a V light trap And placed it onto the inside of the case intake fan as I've put my carbon filter on the exhaust fan and that blocks the light there now. And "Voilà", I had a fully working light trap air vent that traps 99.9% of the light so none of it can be seen coming out of the front air grill of my case, and has good air flow. This is the light trap air vent that I used
. I just wanted to say thanks "Scrubninja" for the idea my friend. I always thought it was a good idea you had, that's why I didn't give up on it. 
No worries buddy, glad you got it to work 
S
Sparkey
OMG... i can finally post! WOO HOO! Felt like freaking forever!!!!! Anyway... ive snooped these fourms before; mostly the 150w, 250w clubs and the DIY stuff. LOVE IT! Anyway; setting up a Aero grow here in a bit; and was comming up with some LAME ideas for light block... your basic high vol; low flow light trap mazes. Seen this; and jackpot. Working a hardware store i took this idea and RAN with it My final proto... Bass wood. (Balsa for those who cant get bass; but honestly; try for bass. MUCH sturdier!!!)
Anyway; sorry no pics yet (cant be having anything sketchy while police have the cam for a accident investigation), but heres what i did... And tonight or tomorrow i might do up a final vent (dont have anything to install in; but it'll be ready when i do lol) of my new and improved idea from my rough draft.
What i did was found some 1/2 x 1/2 square bass wood and made 1/2 in cubes. Then took a 1/8th x 4in x 24in bass wood strip and cut it to strips (4in long; by Xin wide) for my trial run. Then i soaked them in water and ammonia for 1-2 hrs. Took the wood out; and found a 2x4 (will be used as my vent frame work). Took and clamped one end of each strip to the 2x4 and then simply pushed it back untill the other end of the strip was to the other edge of the 2x4 causing it to make a upside down U with wings on it. After allowing it to dry (USE A FAN OR WAIT A LIFETIME!) i then glued the 1/2 cubes to the corners; and stacked my strips. Seal off the ends; and you now have a high flow; low volume light trap!
And basically; what i noticed was the wood doesnt stay PERFECTLY straight. So my upgrade is to take a 1/8th in dowel and drill threw the cubes and strips to slide the dowel down the four corners helping upright it. Then drill 1/8th holes in the 2x4 where the vent will be sitting; and you have a solid mount for it...
My proto worked SUPER. with the 1/2 spacing; TONS of airflow. Little restriction. And the light blocking was amazing! Just the top layer had light leak; but A) I didnt even paint to wood and B) It was a draft so i just wanted to see how working with the wood would work...
Heres where i kinda stole the idea for how to build it; and upgradeing it with the dowel...
http://images.google.com/imgres?img...org.mozilla:en-US:official&sa=N&start=18&um=1
So we'll see how it goes and i might start on my actual trial product and start taking some pics of the build for a DIY of my verson for others if it works...
My final proto... Bass wood. (Balsa for those who cant get bass; but honestly; try for bass. MUCH sturdier!!!)Anyway; sorry no pics yet (cant be having anything sketchy while police have the cam for a accident investigation), but heres what i did... And tonight or tomorrow i might do up a final vent (dont have anything to install in; but it'll be ready when i do lol) of my new and improved idea from my rough draft.
What i did was found some 1/2 x 1/2 square bass wood and made 1/2 in cubes. Then took a 1/8th x 4in x 24in bass wood strip and cut it to strips (4in long; by Xin wide) for my trial run. Then i soaked them in water and ammonia for 1-2 hrs. Took the wood out; and found a 2x4 (will be used as my vent frame work). Took and clamped one end of each strip to the 2x4 and then simply pushed it back untill the other end of the strip was to the other edge of the 2x4 causing it to make a upside down U with wings on it. After allowing it to dry (USE A FAN OR WAIT A LIFETIME!) i then glued the 1/2 cubes to the corners; and stacked my strips. Seal off the ends; and you now have a high flow; low volume light trap!
And basically; what i noticed was the wood doesnt stay PERFECTLY straight. So my upgrade is to take a 1/8th in dowel and drill threw the cubes and strips to slide the dowel down the four corners helping upright it. Then drill 1/8th holes in the 2x4 where the vent will be sitting; and you have a solid mount for it...
My proto worked SUPER. with the 1/2 spacing; TONS of airflow. Little restriction. And the light blocking was amazing! Just the top layer had light leak; but A) I didnt even paint to wood and B) It was a draft so i just wanted to see how working with the wood would work...
Heres where i kinda stole the idea for how to build it; and upgradeing it with the dowel...
http://images.google.com/imgres?img...org.mozilla:en-US:official&sa=N&start=18&um=1
So we'll see how it goes and i might start on my actual trial product and start taking some pics of the build for a DIY of my verson for others if it works...
