What's new
  • ICMag with help from Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest in November! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!

Distinguished and Nurtured Kind

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I feel like I'm in the same boat. This is going to take some getting used to, especially with basically monocropping to increase numbers.

My goal this cycle is 2#. I never did post final numbers. The last plants - #1 gave 2.75 and #5 gave just under 6.75. Basically, hit 23 and a bit for the round off the 7 plants. Part of the room was tomatoes. Running a full bed this time will certainly help as well.



dank.Frank
 

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Wanted to go over the time line on this cycle...

- Feb. 16th - last plant chopped.
- Feb. 18th - clones transplanted into 1/2 gallon pots
- Mar. 8th - 1/2 gallon to soil bed
- Mar. 26th - 1st day of flower

This is an area I still really need to improve on. The truth is, my veg area is inadequate and the flowering time table suffers as a result. Something I should focus on improving.

I went ahead and took the advice given and stripped a lot more fan leaves. Just as much as I did the first time - so much more aggressively than I was personally comfortable with. I took advantage of the thinned out canopy and went ahead and put the first layer of netting in place. I'm sure with 2 more week to stretch, they are going to need a second layer as well. I'll get that in place before they get there for a change. At least I'm doing better in that regard...

Until then, here's a few pics of MOneYMiKe FAM95 #5: under Mars Hydro Led 2 x SP3000

Click image for larger version  Name:	52.jpg Views:	0 Size:	132.4 KB ID:	17822379


Click image for larger version  Name:	52.jpg Views:	0 Size:	132.4 KB ID:	17822379


Click image for larger version  Name:	52.jpg Views:	0 Size:	132.4 KB ID:	17822379

Click image for larger version  Name:	52.jpg Views:	0 Size:	132.4 KB ID:	17822379



dank.Frank
 
Last edited:

sturgeongeneral

Well-known member
Veteran
Those colas look nice and solid. As for led I do a whole lot of defoliating. When multifed or in a hydro system everything is basically supplied directly to the roots. The leaves while they do store energy, the hinder the lowers from really filling in. Here's a few bushes I didn't defoliate as much as I'd have liked...
 

Attachments

  • photo2034785.jpg
    photo2034785.jpg
    221.3 KB · Views: 32
  • photo2034786.jpg
    photo2034786.jpg
    164 KB · Views: 31
  • photo2034787.jpg
    photo2034787.jpg
    216.7 KB · Views: 32

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
I gotta work on the same thing, it be too much time between flowers when i should always be flowering. How far away were lights from canopy this run?
 

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
ICMag Donor
Veteran
chuckyoufarley - Thanks, F.A.M.! I appreciate the good vibes.

sturgeongeneral - I think I'm starting to get the hang of the defoliation thing. I'm seeing some differences in lower growth that I'm certainly pleased with. I think tonight, I'll be stripping one of the last times as we near the end of stretch and new fans won't be produced. I'm seeing how to balance the stripping with the elongation of the budsites.

GET MO - Hey brother. I watch you LED side by sides with great intrigue. It seems like they are all the same on paper half the time. The lights have been kept between 2-2.5 ft away from the canopy during stretch. I have raised them about 6" over the last week and have turned them up to about 60% or so as of lights on yesterday. I'll let you know how far they are at the end of stretch.

So, current cycle. Today is day 19. Pictures are from day 16/17. FAM95 #2 - I am just loving everything about this plant. She's been showing noticeable resin since about day 13 and it's just going to keep increasing. She has an excellent stretch, hitting about 2.5x her initial flowering height. Doesn't mind being topped and her lowers race to the top of the canopy if given the chance...and this is what I've learned about defoliation...

If I pluck all but 3 of the fan leaves off the meristem(s) - the dominant colas - and don't defoliate the lowers, they catch up to the canopy much faster. Once in the mix, I can start thinning fans off these larger secondary branches. There are some branches and sites that just aren't going to get enough light that will need thinned yet, but I'm mostly satisfied with the progression of this run so far. I'm more pleased than I was last cycle, but then again, 2nd run with these lights and the clone run with the plant. Learn something new each run. Incorporate and improve the next. It's a constant.

Snowmoji #18 is staying a bit more compact than I'd have preferred to be honest. She's just starting to show resin but smells quite divine. Gassy, vanilla cake, and burnt sugar/berry. I think she is going to grow more like her mother though and keep stretching a bit longer than I'd expect and make up for her stature later in flower...I hope. She not being overgrown by the FAM95 - things are in a trellis and playing nicely - but you'll be able to see the difference in canopy in the pictures.

IMG_20210411_215122759_HDR.jpg
IMG_20210411_215127187.jpg
IMG_20210411_215137131.jpg
IMG_20210411_215132302.jpg
IMG_20210413_075502340.jpg
IMG_20210413_075833602.jpg



dank.Frank
 

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I should also note, more so for my personal records than anything, I did buy something I've always wanted. Two somethings. 16 site EZCloner - which I might add, by the way was unusable as boxed. The threads on the pump were completely stripped out and I couldn't screw the manifold in place to even use the unit. VERY frustrating considering I over paid to purchase it direct - not the stores fault though. You'd expect the company with the best reputation for cloners to at least have some degree of quality control. Very frustrated and have half a mind to just go get a Husky style tub and get to work making my own, while saving 100 dollars and having 2x more rooting sites.

However, I did manage to fix the issue with a similarly threaded part from a hardware store and a bit of teflon tape. HOWEVER - that really shouldn't be necessary on what is supposedly a premium product - the cost was certainly that of a premium product. I'm still not sure I'll keep the thing though.

Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20210410_115219036.jpg Views:	0 Size:	95.0 KB ID:	17832792


The other item, is something I've wanted to try for a very long time, because I believe in and understand the biological and soil science behind it. If there is anything I'll add to my "just add water" approach, it's usually going to be some sort of bacteria or fungal addition to improve various aspects of the soil environment and ecosystem.

Mammoth P - should, help with increasing flower production simply by making previously chemically bonded phosphorous available in the soil in ionic forms for uptake by the roots. From a theoretical stand point, it's a potential game changer. Even though a 10-16% increase is considered common, that's still only a couple extra ounces. However, I'm trying to squeeze as much as I can out of this room.

First watering with it was the 11th and again today. Using 2ml per 3 gallons of water.



dank.Frank
 

unclefishstick

Fancy Janitor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
i got a sample of that mammoth p and i have to say it worked as they say...pricey though...and the local shop only has old stock on the shelf
 

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
ICMag Donor
Veteran
It is pricey. I agree. But, if it works as the university studies say, I'll keep using it for the foreseeable future. It's worth it on the back end. Thanks for the feedback, Unc.



dank.Frank
 

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Phosphorus Liberator contains carboxylic acid, which solubilises calcium phosphate. This keeps the phosphate in solution, making it available for uptake through plant roots

.
 

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
ICMag Donor
Veteran
acespicoli - Welcome!

f-e - Surely you've noticed I'm an organic grower? Tested results from university studies on Mammoth P:
EnterobacteriaceaeCitrobacter freundii35 ± 4
EnterobacteriaceaeEnterobacter cloacae17 ± 2
PseudomonadaceaePseudomonas putida38 ± 6
ComamonaceaeComamonas testosteroni6 ± 2
Total96 ± 1


dank.Frank
 
Last edited:

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
acespicoli - Welcome!

f-e - Surely you've noticed I'm an organic grower?Tested results from university studies on Mammoth P:

Enterobacteriaceae

Citrobacter freundii

35 ± 4
EnterobacteriaceaeEnterobacter cloacae17 ± 2
PseudomonadaceaePseudomonas putida38 ± 6
ComamonaceaeComamonas testosteroni6 ± 2
Total96 ± 1



dank.Frank

I gave you the certified organic solution that kicks microbial action out the stadium.
Beans.. over 100%
I can't make you read it, but expecting me to be wrong? Christ do I come over that badly
 

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
ICMag Donor
Veteran
f-e - Not sure what the attitude is about? First of all - you gave me nothing. You posted a marketing tidbit from a products advert without telling me anything at all about why you shared that information. Obviously, I assumed you were providing an alternative solution to Mammoth P. Obviously, it struck my curiosity, seeing as I just stated my excitement to be trying Mammoth P, in spite of it's exuberant cost.

I did google the product name, but was given several different products - or rather the same product under several different labels, perhaps - and NONE OF THOSE - appeared to have any claims of being certified for organic use in any of their literature. I downloaded the .pdf files for 2 products from 2 different labels. Saying something is an "organic acid", in many instances, can simply mean a carbon based compound - which could just be clever marketing - and a way to confuse the consumer.

Also, this could be a difference between how products for the American market are labeled vs products destined for countries in the EU. All the products I saw under the name "Phosphorous Liberator" seemed to be on the other side of the pond.

I saw absolutely nothing to indicate it was certified for organic use, thus my comment. How erroneous of you to assume I'd not have done my due diligence before commenting? Obviously, your intent was to help me by making a product suggestion. I found nothing offensive about that suggestion. I apologize if my response questioning further about the product, was viewed in the wrong light. This thread has never had this sort of vibe so I'm not sure where your energy is at, but take a break and smoke a bowl, friend.

Is this something you use? What application rates? Are there any scientific studies that actually verify the claims of the product? (I didn't notice any linked in the literature I downloaded or on the sites. Maybe I missed it.) And even more helpful, since it seems to be offered under different labels, what product, specifically, are you using?

Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience.



dank.Frank
 

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Generically familiar with kelp4less as a website. I usually get better deals ordering by the 50# bag from a more semi-local supplier. I use a product called Humic DG in my soil mix.



dank.Frank
 

flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
That's interesting stuff, and has the fulvic also.

Do you have a pH probe? These somehow can measure how well the soil is sparking, and I bet yours is.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001445982711.html

When there is no plant in the soil, but it is good and moist, the meter will measure the basic soil ph. Add a plant, get the sparks flying with microbes and cation exchange, and the reading shoots straight down to about 4. The lower the better IMO.

I have no explanation except maybe galvanic action, but it is repeatable and seems to work. Plants that don't do well don't spark in the soil.
 

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I get pH readings when getting a soil test, otherwise I've not owned any sort of pH device for well over a decade. Aragonite. Dolomite. Gypsum. Elemental Sulfur. It's my basic mineral/pH mix for my media. Keeps things in check and balanced. It really does feel like cheating when the soil is proper. pH in my soil is generally 6.7 or 6.8 in tests but I'm sure that fluctuates somewhat during different periods of the growing cycle. I know it can range from about 6.5-7.1, but I think that bit of swing is healthy.



dank.Frank
 

flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
If you can get a hold of one of those meters, it would be nice to get another person who has the same results. Even better to get a good scientific explanation of what is going on.

Cheating alright! Tap water (carbon filtered), Ph down to 6.3. I am adding cal-mag too, so there must not be enough in the soil. I haven't tried bypassing the roots by foliar spraying cal-mag, yet.
 

Chunkypigs

passing the gas
Veteran
I get pH readings when getting a soil test, otherwise I've not owned any sort of pH device for well over a decade. Aragonite. Dolomite. Gypsum. Elemental Sulfur. It's my basic mineral/pH mix for my media. Keeps things in check and balanced. It really does feel like cheating when the soil is proper. pH in my soil is generally 6.7 or 6.8 in tests but I'm sure that fluctuates somewhat during different periods of the growing cycle. I know it can range from about 6.5-7.1, but I think that bit of swing is healthy.



dank.Frank

I'm curious what your test looks like in the bed there, can you post it?

I'm fixing to send samples of my beds to Spectrum and see what's up before I plant this season.
 
Top