Vegg69guerilla
Active member
Nice work brother..
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Creeper is creeping again.
- Thread starter Creeperpark
- Start date
AngrySquirrel
New member
Wow those are some of the fattest colas I’ve ever seen!
Late to the show and glad to be here. Love the mentor thing and THAT is evident in every post. A really exceptional journey……
And only 7 pages……
Orwellian editing?
Not!!!!!!!!!
Experience and passion
If you remember the first posts I discussed inserting an organic core into Promix hp. The organic core is made from FoxFarms, or Roots Organic, and is only given rainwater for the 6 weeks. When I up potted from 1 gallon to a 3-gallon pot, I switched to RO water with a small amount of cal-mag.. On this grow I didn't add any clay to the FoxFarms and still got a boost to the CEC just from adding the insert.
Adding a small amount of clay into the insert would have lowered the amount of fertilizer needed. When using a small amount of Clay, I run 160 ppm with every watering. Without clay, I have to run 300 ppm of fertilizer with every watering to achieve the same goal. Do you see how the CEC is affected by clay holding on to nutrients longer?
Adding a small amount of clay into the insert would have lowered the amount of fertilizer needed. When using a small amount of Clay, I run 160 ppm with every watering. Without clay, I have to run 300 ppm of fertilizer with every watering to achieve the same goal. Do you see how the CEC is affected by clay holding on to nutrients longer?
Here's what the organic core looks like at the end of the grow.
Heres today @ day 88 flowering. These last 2 plants kind of remind me of DWC plants except they are only getting 1000 mL of water with a 300 ppm fertilizer once everyday. One Monster bud.
I'm only using around 300 watts with a photoperiod of 11/13 with these last two in the final weeks. They are starting to stink a little more because I can smell them from the other end of the house.
@ the end of almost every garden, I'm tired of having to be here every day to take care of the plants. However, It's almost over maybe a couple more weeks, and then off for Summer.
@ the end of almost every garden, I'm tired of having to be here every day to take care of the plants. However, It's almost over maybe a couple more weeks, and then off for Summer.
JK-AKKtions
Active member
The two good ones look really monstrous. thick buds on a stick, that's the way it has to be. 
Ouch summerbreak? why Climate? or holydays
This thing with the clay is interessting have a good part of clay in my soilmix.
Ouch summerbreak? why Climate? or holydays
This thing with the clay is interessting have a good part of clay in my soilmix.
Too hot and hard on the electric grid. Its like cooking pizza in an oven and running the AC to cool the pizza. Plus too expensive to run both. Taking a break in Summer is recommended for anyone that can.The two good ones look really monstrous. thick buds on a stick, that's the way it has to be.
Ouch summerbreak? why Climate? or holydays
This thing with the clay is interessting have a good part of clay in my soilmix.
It just takes a little amount of clay so start with small amounts until you get dialed in a friend. .
This journal is a blueprint for a successful grow.
The hardest part for me is clearing my mind of all the years of accumulated tips/recommendations.
I’m convinced if one follows your simple recipe they could achieve tremendous results.
I’m hoping to get a large and permanent space with high ceilings set up. If that doesn’t happen I will use this formula in my 4x4 to see for myself.
The clay is a very interesting.
I’m probably wrong but thinking of cations and The Intelligent Gardener.
I was deep into that book until I realized the soil testing in the book is really not for mixed medias (living soils or peat based soils) but I did learn a lot about creating a healthy soil. The addition of clay makes sense in terms of proper nutrient uptake. Not sure how you source it or just go outside and dig some up. Lol
I did a bit of core sampling outdoors here, but too there’s a lot of fill in the soil (50’ from a river and probably the fill was used for drainage)
Anyway I’m intrigued and grateful I followed along. Good stuff!
The hardest part for me is clearing my mind of all the years of accumulated tips/recommendations.
I’m convinced if one follows your simple recipe they could achieve tremendous results.
I’m hoping to get a large and permanent space with high ceilings set up. If that doesn’t happen I will use this formula in my 4x4 to see for myself.
The clay is a very interesting.
I’m probably wrong but thinking of cations and The Intelligent Gardener.
I was deep into that book until I realized the soil testing in the book is really not for mixed medias (living soils or peat based soils) but I did learn a lot about creating a healthy soil. The addition of clay makes sense in terms of proper nutrient uptake. Not sure how you source it or just go outside and dig some up. Lol
I did a bit of core sampling outdoors here, but too there’s a lot of fill in the soil (50’ from a river and probably the fill was used for drainage)
Anyway I’m intrigued and grateful I followed along. Good stuff!
Since these tops are large I have to do a mold test to see what the inside looks like so I don’t waste my time. I just snipped off 1/2 of the fattest biggest bud and get a close-up with the magnifier. I looked at the cut top and the cut part of the plant under magnification and see it closely. After I opened up the plant and cleaned it off I can see it's time to start the fade.. I will post photos when I can.
So these long flowering plants are at 95 days flowering and it's time to start the fade. If I don’t, they will just continue making pistils and get too fat, and will fail. So I cut the 300 ppm feed water in half and watered until I get a good run-off. Instead of giving the plant only 1 liter of water I gave the plant 3 liters of feed water and washed out the excess EC. From now to the end I will use almost nothing but water. That’s it.
Fade started.
Fade started.
Here are photos of the mold test. I cut into the fattest thickest bud and get a good look and smell inside the plant and the stem wood. I take the cut-off top, dry it, and view it under magnification. This way I know where I am when it comes to bud density and bud rot. After looking at the bud it tells me I still have clear resin I have to start the fade.
Heres plant photos. I found no mold and the fade is started.
exoticrobotic
Well-known member
Those little tiny cotyledon leaves you get in nearly finished buds, if they go brown you could have bud rot.
I remember 20 years ago, growing Red Dawn, a Ruderalis cross. Tasted of orange black hash and yielded unbelievably large fluffy buds that were so large they were prone to rot.
Getting adequate airflow around the buds as they are drying and making sure not to let them touch when they dry all helps.
Dont want to see any brown/grey mush after such a great grow.
I remember 20 years ago, growing Red Dawn, a Ruderalis cross. Tasted of orange black hash and yielded unbelievably large fluffy buds that were so large they were prone to rot.
Getting adequate airflow around the buds as they are drying and making sure not to let them touch when they dry all helps.
Dont want to see any brown/grey mush after such a great grow.
Thanks for the info friend you are sure right about those leaves turning brown can cause mold on other strains. However, this strain is mold resistant, and the little brown leaves have plenty of air space, so mold is not a problem. Today is day 100 in flowering with more time still to go.
The pistils are now not as white and stiff, turning cream. Plus the calyx are swelling as the pistil withers. At 100 days in flowering, I still have more time for the resin to mature. Here are some photos of the buds open so you can see no mold. You can see a little tip burn from the early flowering nutrients but I think it's ok. The only way I could pull this off is by using a mold-resistant plant from Columbia.
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