converting a home security light into a remote ballast grow light (the OG FAQ)

[sugabear_II]

Quick question - I picked up an electrical box from HD and it's decent sized. The ballast and wires do fit inside but the wires are touching the ballast. Will my wires melt or burn if it runs like that for too long? If the ballast will melt or burn it, then I'll pick up a bigger box.

you mean the insulated wires are touching the ballast (not bare wires), right?

if so it's ok as long as the box itself is grounded, but as some have mentioned the heat from the ballast will reduce the life of your starter, by how much - I'm not sure.

My ballast starter, etc. were all shoved in a 4"x4" box - pretty tight and I don't have any issues.

 

[kbc2007]

Thanks for the info here suga.
It helped me out.

 

[UBER21]

Sugar bear in your DiY what are those thick red cables called the ones underneath the metal case that holds the socket? Im on my way to buy the rest of the stuff for my 70w hps and need those cables for the ballast to sit outside my pc case thanx....uber

 

[sugabear_II]

uber21 I think the thick red cables you are seeing is the heavy duty extension cord that has been cut - just follow the supply list except the radio shack project box - you can find better ones in the electrical isle of major home improvement stores.

Often times the best solution from what I am seeing in other people implementing this is to leave the ballast in the original case and use that as a ballast box. This makes the wiring very easy as you're just splicing a section of heavy duty extension cord, extending the wires to the socket as well as splicing in another section to extend the wires to the plug - i.e. you don't have to follow a wiring diagram.

 

[UBER21]

uber21 I think the thick red cables you are seeing is the heavy duty extension cord that has been cut - just follow the supply list except the radio shack project box - you can find better ones in the electrical isle of major home improvement stores.

Often times the best solution from what I am seeing in other people implementing this is to leave the ballast in the original case and use that as a ballast box. This makes the wiring very easy as you're just splicing a section of heavy duty extension cord, extending the wires to the socket as well as splicing in another section to extend the wires to the plug - i.e. you don't have to follow a wiring diagram.

Thanks sugar bear I had got it both the 70w hps and the carbon scrubber......some pics too...lol

 

[UBER21]

here is the 70w hps and mini carbon scrubber!!!!!!

 

[dirt nap]

Suga, or any others who have bought the e-conolight products, do those 150w HPS setups come with capacitors? I would seek to add caps if they are not offered, as with a constant cabinet grow I need to keep the power running as efficiently as possible, and as I understand it, a better power factor (offered by the cap.) helps the ballasts and lamps run a little smoother? Or at least it helps iron out the lines so as to keep prying eyes away?

 

[sugabear_II]

e-conolights don't have capacitors but I believe have rather good power factors neways ...

check out business lights - they have top of the line venture ballast kits which have a capacitor

 

[Poker_Toker]

hey suga bear maybe u can help me. I just got a mogul socket in the mail and it doesent have leads off of it, just those screw type ones you slide the wire through and tighten it. Do you know of what i can use instead of squiching the wires between the screw and plate, i dont want this thing to arc out lol
It will be a 175mh light i just have to put everything together

 

[phr3d0m2gr0]

Using the screws are fine as long as the wires are close to touch and you make sure everything is tight and won't come loose.

 

[Poker_Toker]

Using the screws are fine as long as the wires are close to touch and you make sure everything is tight and won't come loose.

thx bro for taking the time to answer and make me feel better. I got the socket free inside a carbon filter i got for 60 shipped. after looking at it there are little washers on the screws so it should be ok, then i wont have a splice in the 3" junction box i will mount the socket to, so this actually works out in my favor
I cant believe how big a mogul socket is, i cant wait to set up my 175 i just got the tracking number so a few more days
Good thing i have 3 huge totes full of random odds and ends i would of needed to buy, coffee cans to use as 6" ducting, 4 extra extensions and plugs kicking around, it pays to be a pack rat sometimes

 

[phr3d0m2gr0]

You did get a mogul socket bulb right? Anyway i know i said it's ok, but just make sure you quadruple check everything so that you feel comfortable, never be lazy with electricity. I'm sure you know that though. Heres a picture of my cooltube and i used a medium socket just like you have (with the screws):




-Phr3

 

[kidkannabis]

Great DIY thread Suga_Bear...i just purchased my 70w HPS from Home Depot,i took it apart,removed the sensor,but my situation and question is this: I read and saw all of the DIY part and i noticed that the BLUE wire coming from the ignitor and the ballast are wired together along with the sockets BLACK wire,Wel when i removed the sensor off mine i noticed that the RED from the ignitor AND ballast are wired together with the sockets BLACK wire.Should i leave it like that and power the motherlover up or should i rewire them so the BLUE wires are wired with the sockets BLACK wire?? Hopefully my questions not confusing, and hopefully you or anyone may help a buddah brotha out.... thanks in advance

 

[stihgnobevoli]

if you havent killed yourself yet, wire it up like the picture.

the way its originally wired the power flows in and out through the sensor. with you removing the sensor and making it remote, the power has to flow differently than it did by default.

 

[kidkannabis]

Hey stihgnobevoli...thanks for the insight...and i havent killed myself...im used to taking shit apart and messing with em, since a child ive been into doing that...But thanks for the reply and i will do it like the pics...i appreciate it

 

[Poker_Toker]

Heres some info you guys will like.
I contacted econolight about power factors for their 150w hps (E-MT7H151G) , and their 70w mh (E-MT7M07DG) and they sent me this back.


Good afternoon Dan,

Thank you for contacting E-conolight. The amperage draw for the E-MT7H151G is 3.20 operating amperes, starting is 4.50. The amperage draw for the E-MT7M07DG is 2.10 operating amperes, starting is 2.60. If you have any other questions, please feel free to, also, contact our Customer Service Department at 888-243-9445, Monday-Friday, 7 a.m.-5 p.m.


Weird my sunlight supply 400w hps only uses 3.8 amps at 120v and the little e-conolight 150 uses 3.2 amps at 120v

 

[phr3d0m2gr0]

I have a feeling they got mixed up and listed a 400 watt and 250 watt.

 

[Poker_Toker]

I have a feeling they got mixed up and listed a 400 watt and 250 watt.

they could have, but i was very specific with the part numbers. Heres the email i sent them:

Hi, I am looking for some security lighting as one my my cars just got broken into in my yard, go figure. I am just wondering what the power factors are on these 2 fixtures: 150w hps E-MT7H151G, 70w MH E-MT7M07DG Are the ballasts at least 90% efficient as long as the bulb is changed regulary. How much wattage do they draw under normal operating conditions Power is an issue thats why i am wondering, my power rates are through the roof.Many thanks in advance


Shoot them an email ([email protected]) and see what they send to you. For kicks i am going to ask the specs from their 400hps flood and 250w hps flood

 

[sugabear_II]

very interesting poker toker --- I bet the 250 and the 400 will show numbers in the high and low 3's for amps... anything 250 and above has a capacitor and therefore power factor is better controlled.

as cheap as e-conolight 150s are I would not recommend going elsewhere if you're running just 1 or 2 of them but it seems there is good reason to consider the capacitated venture ballast kit instead if you have any concerns about blowing circuit breakers.

 

[Poker_Toker]

very interesting poker toker --- I bet the 250 and the 400 will show numbers in the high and low 3's for amps... anything 250 and above has a capacitor and therefore power factor is better controlled.

as cheap as e-conolight 150s are I would not recommend going elsewhere if you're running just 1 or 2 of them but it seems there is good reason to consider the capacitated venture ballast kit instead if you have any concerns about blowing circuit breakers.

you are absolutely right, heres the email i got back. These numbers are pretty good, i bet they are a decent quality

Steve,

The amp draws depend on the voltage you have it connected to. The 400 HPS 120 volt is 3.90, 208 volt is 2.30, 240 volt is 1.90, and the 277 volt is 1.70. The 250 MH 120 volt is 2.50, 208 volt is 1.40, 240 volt is 1.30, and 277 volt is 1.10. If you have any other questions please call us at 888-243-9445. Thank you!

Amy
Customer Service