Switcher56
Comfortably numb!
I believe you will definitely see a difference. Break a legOh man I have fired up the TS1000s in my new spot and also added a hygrostat and mister to the equation.
VPD for the win!
CC
I believe you will definitely see a difference. Break a legOh man I have fired up the TS1000s in my new spot and also added a hygrostat and mister to the equation.
VPD for the win!
CC
Concept works but i am still thinking on the right code for energy efficiency and stable enaugh environment.
If you are already controlling temp and humidity 90% of the work is done. Just make those checks 3 way (to factor in both humidity and temp) and not 2 way.
Soon i will package my controller in a box to start working on code alone, cause the hardware already been checked and it's working good.
My code is more of a sketch now, I want ro make it smarter.
So what is it exactly? I am no expert on vpd. I get the basics i think.
So instead of controlling humidity and temperature separately based on a vpd chart... You choose your vpd level? What is the point?
Or is it more like a gauge? Howis this used in practice
During winter months here ambient RH is around 22% I have to run a household humidifier to raise it to 40%. Dry air is not good for humans either. I go through 3gal of H2O/day. It greatly assists my tents. Humidifier is is front hallway.Hey Yuba,
The point is I believe that at a certain temp/rh ratio the plant metabilsm runs on maximum as the transpiration rate is ideal and therefore the plant is best supplied with nutes and water from the soil?
Lots of of people swear by it and say everything else, boosters vitality supplements, stimulants etc. is bollocks and the correct vpd does much more for the plant than all extra stimulants combined. Of course the correct nutes have to be available for the plant at any time.
(I'm also giving it a try after inspiration from the brother exploziv, but I'm not a computer expert and I have a very low ambient rh, so all I do is run a mister on a hygrostat and try to adjust rh to the given temperature in the house which is very stable.)
CC
@ZV: Vacuum depresure is not related to temperature or humidity. You just need to keep NEGATIVE pressure inside that is constant. 100 kpa = 1 bar (atmospheric pressure). I would keep at least 20-to 30% of that at all times to ensure smell is not going out.
About the sensor you call Pressence, I am not sure in the picture it writes pressence or other name, but has no logic with that name. What pressence is and what should that sensor measure? Any info from the manufacturer on it?
Only think I can throw out there, and it's just a guess, maybe it's the vacuum presence sensor? Or is this a different sensor?
Anyway please note that the vacuum kPa should be a negative value, and not positive one, as vacuuum is negative pressure.
@Butterflyeffect:
I am about to scratch the vpd control code and rethink it. I am not happy with it, even if it works, I want it much better planned and written. Might even get a code guy to have a try at optimising it once it's done. Sorry, won't share it for now, as I consider there is nothing to be proud of.
So this will factor air pressure? I have never figured out how to do that. I have gotten good results just looking at a vpd chart when i choose my temp and rh.
How far off am i not factoring air pressure?
Feel free to call me out if im wrong...
but its my impression that growers who simply try to control their environment for vpd are missing part of the picture.
VPD is a wonderful measure, but it only ties in temp with humidity, which is related to a plants water potential and therefore rate of transpiration (water uptake) . it doesn't account for variations in rate of respiration vs. photosynthesis. ie energy creation vs. energy use.
a practical example of this would be someone trying to set high temps / high humidity, but under low light conditions. in this situation the plants would be transpiring and respiring at very high rates, but without enough photosynthesis the plants would not have enough sugar creation to back that kind of growth. this person will very likely run into problems with stretch and mold and have a decreased yield. however, same vpd under high light conditions and these problems will more or less disappear.
a more complete view would be tying in some measure of DLI (daily light interval) vs ADT (average daily temp) in conjuction with VPd. so pretty much energy budget alongside water uptake. in theory, the DLI v ADT measure is directly related to yield, sugar (energy ) creation vs. use.
just my
context is everything!
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It's a starting point. Nothing more nothing less. That being said... a necessity.Feel free to call me out if im wrong...
but its my impression that growers who simply try to control their environment for vpd are missing part of the picture.
VPD is a wonderful measure, but it only ties in temp with humidity, which is related to a plants water potential and therefore rate of transpiration (water uptake) . it doesn't account for variations in rate of respiration vs. photosynthesis. ie energy creation vs. energy use.
a practical example of this would be someone trying to set high temps / high humidity, but under low light conditions. in this situation the plants would be transpiring and respiring at very high rates, but without enough photosynthesis the plants would not have enough sugar creation to back that kind of growth. this person will very likely run into problems with stretch and mold and have a decreased yield. however, same vpd under high light conditions and these problems will more or less disappear.
a more complete view would be tying in some measure of DLI (daily light interval) vs ADT (average daily temp) in conjuction with VPd. so pretty much energy budget alongside water uptake. in theory, the DLI v ADT measure is directly related to yield, sugar (energy ) creation vs. use.
just my