HossCartwright
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Ph down, ppm up means your nutrient solution is stronger than your plants need.
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Colorado Growers Thread
- Thread starter aceofspades
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barnyard
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Powdery mildews are severe in warm, dry climates...
Powdery mildews are severe in warm, dry climates...
Powdery Mildews
by B. Edmunds and L.P. Pottorff 1 (5/09)
Quick Facts...
* Powdery mildew is one of the most widespread and easily recognized plant diseases.
* Powdery mildews are characterized by spots or patches of white to grayish, talcum-powder-like growth.
* Powdery mildews are severe in warm, dry climates.
* Many plants have been developed to be resistant or tolerant to powdery mildew.
* Succulent tissue is more susceptible to infection. Once the disease is a problem, avoid late summer applications of nitrogen fertilizer.
Powdery mildews are one of the most widespread and easily recognized plant diseases. They affect virtually all kinds of plants: cereals and grasses, vegetables, ornamentals, weeds, shrubs, fruit trees, and broad-leaved shade and forest trees. In Colorado, powdery mildews are common on ash, lilac, grape, roses, turfgrass, vegetables (such as cucurbits and peas), euonymus, cherry, apple, crabapple, pear and Virginia creeper, among others.
Symptoms
Even though there are several types of powdery mildew fungi, they all produce similar symptoms on plant parts. Powdery mildews are characterized by spots or patches of white to grayish, talcum-powder-like growth. Tiny, pinhead-sized, spherical fruiting structures that are first white, later yellow-brown and finally black, may be present singly or in a group. These are the cleistothecia or overwintering bodies of the fungus.
The disease is most commonly observed on the upper sides of the leaves. It also affects the bottom sides of leaves, young stems, buds, flowers and young fruit. Infected leaves may become distorted, turn yellow with small patches of green, and fall prematurely. Infected buds may fail to open.
Conditions That Favor the Disease
The severity of the disease depends on many factors: variety of the host plant, age and condition of the plant, and weather conditions during the growing season.
Powdery mildews are severe in warm, dry climates. This is because the fungus does not need the presence of water on the leaf surface for infection to occur. However, the relative humidity of the air does need to be high for spore germination. Therefore, the disease is common in crowded plantings where air circulation is poor and in damp, shaded areas. Incidence of infection increases as relative humidity rises to 90 percent, but it does not occur when leaf surfaces are wet (e.g., in a rain shower). Young, succulent growth usually is more susceptible than older plant tissues.
About the Fungi
Powdery mildews are host specific -- they cannot survive without the proper host plant. For example, the species Uncinula necator, which causes powdery mildew on grape and linden, does not attack lilac. Similarly, Microsphaea alni affects elm, catalpa, lilac and oak but not turfgrass.
Powdery mildews produce mycelium (fungal threads) that grow only on the surface of the plant. They never invade the tissues themselves. The fungi feed by sending haustoria, or root-like structures, into the epidermal (top) cells of the plant. The fungi overwinter on plant debris as cleistothecia or mycelium. In the spring, the cleistothecia produce spores that are moved to susceptible host tissue by splashing raindrops, wind or Insects.
Control
Cultural
Several practices will reduce or prevent powdery mildews. Many plants, such as roses, vegetables and Kentucky bluegrass, are developed to be resistant or tolerant to powdery mildew. Inquire about resistant varieties before a purchase. If resistant varieties are unavailable, do not plant in low, shady locations.
Once the disease becomes a problem:
* Avoid late-summer applications of nitrogen fertilizer to limit the production of succulent tissue, which is more susceptible to infection.
* Avoid overhead watering to help reduce the relative humidity.
* Remove and destroy all infected plant parts (leaves, etc.). For infected vegetables and other annuals, remove as much of the plant and its debris in the fall as possible. This decreases the ability of the fungus to survive the winter. Do not compost infected plant debris. Temperatures often are not hot enough to kill the fungus.
* Selectively prune overcrowded plant material to help increase air circulation. This helps reduce relative humidity and infection.
Chemical
If cultural controls fail to prevent disease buildup or if the disease pressure is too great, an application of a fungicide may be necessary.
These include:
* sulfur,
* neem oil (Rose Defense, Shield-All, Triact),
* triforine (Ortho Funginex), ornamental use only, or
* potassium bicarbonate (Kaligreen, First Step)
Chemicals are most effective when combined with cultural controls. Apply fungicides at seven to 14-day intervals to provide continuous protection throughout the growing season. Follow the instructions on the fungicide label for use on specific plant species, varieties, rates to be used, timing of applications, and waiting periods before harvest.
An alternative nontoxic control for mildew is baking soda (similar to the potassium bicarbonate listed above) combined with a lightweight horticultural oil (Sunspray). Researchers at Cornell University have discovered the fungicidal properties of this combination against powdery mildew on roses. Applications of 1 tablespoon baking soda plus 2.5 tablespoons of Sunspray oil in 1 gallon of water are still experimental. Use it at your own risk.
from: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/02902.html
do I know you Hoss? Ever grow A11?
Powdery mildews are severe in warm, dry climates...
Powdery Mildews
by B. Edmunds and L.P. Pottorff 1 (5/09)
Quick Facts...
* Powdery mildew is one of the most widespread and easily recognized plant diseases.
* Powdery mildews are characterized by spots or patches of white to grayish, talcum-powder-like growth.
* Powdery mildews are severe in warm, dry climates.
* Many plants have been developed to be resistant or tolerant to powdery mildew.
* Succulent tissue is more susceptible to infection. Once the disease is a problem, avoid late summer applications of nitrogen fertilizer.
Powdery mildews are one of the most widespread and easily recognized plant diseases. They affect virtually all kinds of plants: cereals and grasses, vegetables, ornamentals, weeds, shrubs, fruit trees, and broad-leaved shade and forest trees. In Colorado, powdery mildews are common on ash, lilac, grape, roses, turfgrass, vegetables (such as cucurbits and peas), euonymus, cherry, apple, crabapple, pear and Virginia creeper, among others.
Symptoms
Even though there are several types of powdery mildew fungi, they all produce similar symptoms on plant parts. Powdery mildews are characterized by spots or patches of white to grayish, talcum-powder-like growth. Tiny, pinhead-sized, spherical fruiting structures that are first white, later yellow-brown and finally black, may be present singly or in a group. These are the cleistothecia or overwintering bodies of the fungus.
The disease is most commonly observed on the upper sides of the leaves. It also affects the bottom sides of leaves, young stems, buds, flowers and young fruit. Infected leaves may become distorted, turn yellow with small patches of green, and fall prematurely. Infected buds may fail to open.
Conditions That Favor the Disease
The severity of the disease depends on many factors: variety of the host plant, age and condition of the plant, and weather conditions during the growing season.
Powdery mildews are severe in warm, dry climates. This is because the fungus does not need the presence of water on the leaf surface for infection to occur. However, the relative humidity of the air does need to be high for spore germination. Therefore, the disease is common in crowded plantings where air circulation is poor and in damp, shaded areas. Incidence of infection increases as relative humidity rises to 90 percent, but it does not occur when leaf surfaces are wet (e.g., in a rain shower). Young, succulent growth usually is more susceptible than older plant tissues.
About the Fungi
Powdery mildews are host specific -- they cannot survive without the proper host plant. For example, the species Uncinula necator, which causes powdery mildew on grape and linden, does not attack lilac. Similarly, Microsphaea alni affects elm, catalpa, lilac and oak but not turfgrass.
Powdery mildews produce mycelium (fungal threads) that grow only on the surface of the plant. They never invade the tissues themselves. The fungi feed by sending haustoria, or root-like structures, into the epidermal (top) cells of the plant. The fungi overwinter on plant debris as cleistothecia or mycelium. In the spring, the cleistothecia produce spores that are moved to susceptible host tissue by splashing raindrops, wind or Insects.
Control
Cultural
Several practices will reduce or prevent powdery mildews. Many plants, such as roses, vegetables and Kentucky bluegrass, are developed to be resistant or tolerant to powdery mildew. Inquire about resistant varieties before a purchase. If resistant varieties are unavailable, do not plant in low, shady locations.
Once the disease becomes a problem:
* Avoid late-summer applications of nitrogen fertilizer to limit the production of succulent tissue, which is more susceptible to infection.
* Avoid overhead watering to help reduce the relative humidity.
* Remove and destroy all infected plant parts (leaves, etc.). For infected vegetables and other annuals, remove as much of the plant and its debris in the fall as possible. This decreases the ability of the fungus to survive the winter. Do not compost infected plant debris. Temperatures often are not hot enough to kill the fungus.
* Selectively prune overcrowded plant material to help increase air circulation. This helps reduce relative humidity and infection.
Chemical
If cultural controls fail to prevent disease buildup or if the disease pressure is too great, an application of a fungicide may be necessary.
These include:
* sulfur,
* neem oil (Rose Defense, Shield-All, Triact),
* triforine (Ortho Funginex), ornamental use only, or
* potassium bicarbonate (Kaligreen, First Step)
Chemicals are most effective when combined with cultural controls. Apply fungicides at seven to 14-day intervals to provide continuous protection throughout the growing season. Follow the instructions on the fungicide label for use on specific plant species, varieties, rates to be used, timing of applications, and waiting periods before harvest.
An alternative nontoxic control for mildew is baking soda (similar to the potassium bicarbonate listed above) combined with a lightweight horticultural oil (Sunspray). Researchers at Cornell University have discovered the fungicidal properties of this combination against powdery mildew on roses. Applications of 1 tablespoon baking soda plus 2.5 tablespoons of Sunspray oil in 1 gallon of water are still experimental. Use it at your own risk.
from: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/02902.html
do I know you Hoss? Ever grow A11?
M
ME TED
I think your plants are taking water and leaving the nutrients, causing your ppm to go up and pH to change. That would be my guess anyway. Does the water level drop when this happens?
HossCartwright
Member
Yes, which means his nutrient solution is stronger than his plants need. No big deal, just top off with plain ph'd water and use less nutrients next rez change.I think your plants are the taking water and leaving the nutrients, causing your ppm to go up and pH to change. That would be my guess anyway. Does the water level drop when this happens?
D
danimal7
could your medium have salt build up?... as that leached out it could cause ppm to rise and ph to do odd stuff
also are you aware of nutrient lockout ?..good luck bro
THE WHITE day 22.
P
Paco
you must spread some rep before giving it to selfhemployed again!
looks awesome!
looks awesome!
K
Kelly.
...
That White looks pretty serious for day 22... You definitely have a green thumb friend.
G
Guywithoutajeep
hey im a new sorta colorado grower, whats the best grow shop between denver and boulder?
thanks y'all. I'll post up some banner 3 shots tonight it looks really nice as well.
Guywithoutajeep... Try Way to Grow in Boulder or (Fort Collins). Biggest selection in the state that I've found
Guywithoutajeep... Try Way to Grow in Boulder or (Fort Collins). Biggest selection in the state that I've found
Ms_Weekend
Member
day 22 from the flip?....i know some of people like to start counting once the bud starts developing.
But if its 22 from the flip, then it looks like that could be a yielder!
Yes they are nice. Denver hydro is pretty good too. 68th & Broadway.
From the flip. I've always been told the white doesn't yield but it looks to.
Last edited:
Ms_Weekend
Member
THE WHITE day 22.
Ive seen some kushes yield less than that at 70 days.....ill be keeping an eye out in a month or so for some more pics.
true I had a kushberry pheno that yielded like 18 grams on a plant this size. The frost makes it look bigger than it is. Now that I looked though it IS fatter than everything else in the room along with the SAGE.
K
Kelly.
...
LIFEISGOOD
Member
Kelly- Nice dense canopy, will you have to a double harvest?
Anybody know where to pick up a few 400w CMH in Denver?
Anybody know where to pick up a few 400w CMH in Denver?
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