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Coco Tree's
- Thread starter DJM
- Start date
jahshaka
Active member
my one question which after reading all of this thread is the mystery of the dosatron. how on earth did djm manage to mix an a and b with additives to a concentrated stock and not have lockout issues. i remember reading a 500% ratio for the stock solution...which im guessing is 50% water dilution for the stock solution, however i remember him mentioning something about reverse engineering his dosatron and such and such.
Hey djm if you outthere if you could detail and show picks of this game changer would be much appreciated by all.
bless up
Hey djm if you outthere if you could detail and show picks of this game changer would be much appreciated by all.
bless up
PeterGreen
New member
I second sqydro, wish I'd joined icmag years ago when I was first introduced to it.
DJM"s thread will keep me up rethinking old ideas
DJM"s thread will keep me up rethinking old ideas
TnTLabs
Active member
if you only have 2 months rent left then start flowering already no!?!?
alotawatah
Member
TnT, lol, I got some help from family. A co grower tried to play the 2 licenses at one place game and threw me off scedule. I'm lucky I didn't go into flower as I found I had aphids, spider mites, root rot, fungus gnats and Powdery mildew.
At this point everything is beat but the root rot.
I lost one veg round plant already (wilted bad), and 2 more have the stench, and probably most have it. Also found a stem the size of a beer bottle getting soft and squishy. So that's the new 50 hr search this week, root rot/stem rot.
At this point everything is beat but the root rot.
I lost one veg round plant already (wilted bad), and 2 more have the stench, and probably most have it. Also found a stem the size of a beer bottle getting soft and squishy. So that's the new 50 hr search this week, root rot/stem rot.
Hey everyone. Big thanks for keeping this thread alive in my absence, and for all the love and kind words along the way. Its appreciated. My apologizes for not getting back to everyone's questions. I relocated across the country last summer and ive been playing catch up , up until this point. Im coming up on some much needed free time, so over the next few weeks ill be going back and trying to answer any relevant questions that havent been answered. ill also post pics from the last years crops for those interested. Im in the process of writing out an extremely detailed step by step , from clone till harvest , of my system. Ill be posting it all here once its completed as well as putting up the link for a downloadable copy for free. In the new cannabis age of money grabs, opportunists, patent pendings and power moves, some of us still believe that knowledge should be free and dont sell out for the almighty dollar. Hope every one is doing well and this thread has helped your garden in some way. Thats what its all about, giving is better than receiving
sorry to hear about the rot...what are the day/night time temperature and rh? is there a large swing between night and day? do you have lots of air movement? are you on a unchlorinated well? if so are you filtering it , and or have you tested it for bacteria yet? all of those could be causes or attributing to the rot
adding 0.4 ml per gallon of bleach will sterilize the medium of any pathogen..a follow up 0.2 ml per gallon will keep the pathogens at bay once the medium is sterilized and issues causing rot are addressed.
hope that helps, im in new England my self
there are two ways to run a medium...sterile or with beneficial fungi and bacteria...depending on the grow , environment, nutrients or circumstance, one may be more effective than the other
if wanting to go the beneficial route, i suggest sterilizing medium then re inoculating it with an EWC tea
if wanting to go the beneficial route, i suggest sterilizing medium then re inoculating it with an EWC tea
i train by starting off with one single topping at first transplanting from rooted clone. After that i use aggressive super cropping to shape the plant to the size i am aiming for. How many times i super crop is dependent by how naturally bushy the strain is on its own. Some need no more than a top and 3 super croppings to be where i want them. Others need as many as 100 to shape. Any plant can be shaped into any size, regardless of its natural growth patterns. Its just about the timing and amount of super croppings it needs to achieve ones goals. A stringy growing OG, can grow like a squat hedge with nothing but aggressive, properly timed super croppings
With that said light and environment have quite a lot to do with the growth structure of a plant. For example..while plants are in veg, even in the cloning dome, i make sure that they NEVER touch, and have at least 9 inches or so between leaves..I do this because when light is allowed to cascade down in between plants, and light up the space between them, the plants will actually grow outward towards this light , as opposed to upwards. The minute light doesn't cascade down the sides of the plants, the plant will begin to grow towards its only light source, upward, as apposed to outwards..This will result in a very tall, yet very thin plant, which will require many plants to achieve a full canopy..Which is very inefficient in indoor growing..I use this technique to help manipulate and alter the structure of the plant in a way that's beneficial indoors..One can notice this at play looking at outdoor plants. Outdoors plants are usually planted with ample space, allowing this cascading side lighting to surround the plant, and cause the plant to grow outward more than upward. One can not even shape a plant outdoors and it will naturally grow into a bush. But given the dynamics of indoor gardening, we have to manipulate the shaping by super cropping and proper spacing. Put a clone in the flower room in its final container and never let it touch another plant before flower and you will notice it will grow far better and naturally bushy as opposed to cramming a ton of veg plants together and have them all fighting for light. Even in my domes i space them so they never touch
Once in flower, plants will obviously always touch. However this is where thinning and defoliation come into play and make them essential in my system. My aim is to make my canopy and bushy , with as many tops at the surface as possible..Once i have my plants shaped and put into flower, i will go through a weave the canopy even. While doing this i selectively thin out any overcrowded branches that don't make it up through the trellis. I also selectively defoliate, in early veg, late veg and flower..This opens the plant up and allows its lower less dominant branches to work up and catch up to the main branches. When and how much i defoliate, is again, completely strain dependent. Some sativas may need none, some indicas may need to be stripped bare..Usually a little here and there in veg, and aggressively in flower. I do 3 leave pulls, one early flower, post stretch and one pre flush...For perspective on how much, out of my 16kw room i pull out around a 30 gallon trash can stuffed tight with fan leaves by the end of flower. This also helps create air flow within the canopy which prevents molds from ever getting a foothold, even in a very densely planted canopy
Hope that helps
alotawatah
Member
Good to see you back, you're thread has inspired my grow for the last several months, many thanks.
Outdoors/green house, crazy temp/humidity swings, unchlorinated well water at 35 ppm, unfiltered, water quality test not specific to agriculture but negative bacteria,mg/l were 22 cal, 13 sulfate, 4.8 sodium, 3 Chloride, 1.4 flouride, .04 copper, .08 manganese, 0 iron, 58 hardness. Ph was 7.2. (My calibrated pen said 7.0 2 months back, now it's dropping ph to around 6.0??, I take about 300 gallons/day from well, not including household use.)
Outdoors/green house, crazy temp/humidity swings, unchlorinated well water at 35 ppm, unfiltered, water quality test not specific to agriculture but negative bacteria,mg/l were 22 cal, 13 sulfate, 4.8 sodium, 3 Chloride, 1.4 flouride, .04 copper, .08 manganese, 0 iron, 58 hardness. Ph was 7.2. (My calibrated pen said 7.0 2 months back, now it's dropping ph to around 6.0??, I take about 300 gallons/day from well, not including household use.)
alotawatah
Member
My plan since yesterday has been to start bleach or pool shock today, thanks for those specific ammounts. If you please... I run jacks, 5 12 26 first 225 grams, then 75 grams Epsom salts, then 150 grams Calnit. Where does the bleach come in? I mix and hand water 2 to 3 of these reservoirs a day, so how many gallons of initial kill would I go for before going to maintenance? (My wife can't wait until I hook up irrigation).
My former partner was doing organics, he left and I switched to maxi then jacks, but I failed to sterilize and I didn't maintain the organics. Your answers/suggestions are spot on. Instead of chlorinating/ filtering the well, I imagine I can bleach the reservoirs. I'm on the fence now about bennies or maintenence clorox, I almost feel to inexperienced/broke to go bennies right now. But the root growth with them was insane!!
Again many thanks and I can't wait to finish rooting these 20 gallons and hold in the humidity with this greenhouse(with lots of fans) and watch the magic happen.
My former partner was doing organics, he left and I switched to maxi then jacks, but I failed to sterilize and I didn't maintain the organics. Your answers/suggestions are spot on. Instead of chlorinating/ filtering the well, I imagine I can bleach the reservoirs. I'm on the fence now about bennies or maintenence clorox, I almost feel to inexperienced/broke to go bennies right now. But the root growth with them was insane!!
Again many thanks and I can't wait to finish rooting these 20 gallons and hold in the humidity with this greenhouse(with lots of fans) and watch the magic happen.
and glad to see ya dropping back in senor donalotawatah
Member
alotawatah
Member
Thanks TnT, I dropped the silica from 2.5 ml per gallon to 0 and I noticed a health decline, I'm afraid of it not going well with my jacks nutrients and I plan to foliar it. It's looking like bleach for the kill, and then either enzymes and bennies or just maintenance bleach.
