CLONES!!! 7-14 Days! 99% Success Rate!

[F2F]

I agree to a certain extent
But not for everyone
Theres a reason they make humidity domes
I dont know where burnleaf is at but,
Right now where im at the RH is 13% (high desert)
Ive learned that I have to... like literally have to
leave them in the dome for about 4 or 5 days before we start acclimating them to the dry air
I start with maybe only 10 minutes with the top off
Then back in for a day
After a few days of increasing frequency of exposure roots show on the sides

Yep. I agree with ya 3SB...everyone’s situation is different. He said he’s at 95% first 5d. Maybe not much going on during this period. I noticed if I kept them just on the brink, without wilting, roots came faster. If I push harder (more light and even lower humidity) they’d root fastest but not look so good when ready to transplant.

Peace
F2F

 

[burntleaf]

Thanks for your replies!

Its like 3snowboards said, my humidty in the room is only 40-50%, no problem for rooted plants, but if I take off the dome completly before they have rooted, they wilt and die over night.
I remove the dome every day for about 10 minutes for the first 5 days, after that i open the vents fully, so the humidity inside the clonebox drops gradually from about 95 to 70% gradually over the first week.

I also noticed that they will push roots faster if they are on the edge of drying out, but i feel the fast change from 70+ to 50% is stressing them a little too much and they prefer to die, rather than root...

I have a few boards of wood flying around so i probably will try to build a little box where i can put the humidity dome with the clones+heatmat+lighting in to get higher temps and humidity.
Now that the weather gets colder its hard to get the whole room above 20°C without burning up a lot of money...

 

[Shastafarian]

Yesssir this is the way I had to do because of not being abe to make it to the hydro store one evening and was behind on clones so I said what could it hurt its a medium and close to rock wool but I used heavy perlite lite soil for clones in the past with good results but sure enough when I use str8 perlite with no additives pure perlite and maybe a drop or 2/8oz water of Super Thrive with kelp its super concentrated so you dont even see a change in water color but I always get the extra help with it guaranteeing my success to be that much stronger and the plants dont need anything else for 2weeks just H20 & Super Thrive if u wanna test it there $10-12 for a 4oz bottle you cant believe the extra boost this gives your young & old plants but especially seed soak and clones. I love the str8 perlite method though because like you show it pulls out clean with nothing but healthy roots ready for any medium & I can reuse this perlite after a lite spray with diluted peroxide to sterilize and its ready for round 234and so on its the most eco friendly way and cheapest but best result method lol. I spoke about this years ago on Rollit up and showed this exact same method lol. I hope everyone uses it and yes you can cut holes in the side of the cups to allow just that amount of water to hold but I prefer the holes in the bottom and the side of my cups and then fill the propagation tray up about 1/2 inch full of water/superthrive or pure water with a few ml of peroxide helps tremendously for rot and disease & doesn't hurt the rooting process one bit only helps it but this way the bottom and the sides can soak up just a little bit but the evaporation from the bottom of the cup through the perlite onto the stem is what you want not the stem submerged under the water or it will rot that tip but roots will still grow above that point its just better to keep the stem a 1/2inch up frpm the bottom inside the cup of perlite so this doesn't happen and it will give you better success. I prefer the lid on my tray so I don't have to spray them but maybe once if at all. I like easiest & this is an easy sure way to get cheap high quality clones the method or how much you spend doesn't matter its the end reults so if you want to use a 5gal bucket as your tray and serran wrap the top it will work fine or cheap plastic bins you flip upside down or even a dixie cup you put a smaller one inside the idea is the same keep the stem moist but not soaked for 10-14days in 80-85F and you will get roots but perlite works better then rock wool because it doesn't hold the water as much which I prefer down south maybe in your climate u might need the extra spraying on the leaves if your in PNW its dry typically so the dome and spraying helped my low humidity problem & allowed for a better cloning process.

 

[burntleaf]

Hey guys, little update:

Clones were cut on 24.9., so it has been 11 days now.


As you can see they all still look healthy and stand strong even in 50% humidity. But still no roots.
The perlite looks a bit brown because I sprayed them with kelp a few days ago. White spots on the leafs are sulfur.

I was pretty busy last week but 2 days ago I was able to modify a drawer to put the clones+heatmat in.
Temps in there are about 24-26°C and 50-60% humidity, so I expect the next batch of clones to root more easily...

Another question:
When I pour water in the cup, after putting the clones in, I noticed that air gaps were forming inside the perlite when the water drains out the little hole on the side of the cup. Looks like this:


I used a thin chopstick to poke out the gaps but can't get all of them.
Any other tips on how to avoid that?
Im using Plagron Perlite and can't really get anything else...

Thanks a lot for all the input!


Burntleaf

 

[SGS]

sorry for the late reply...

I have never used clear plastic cups was always to afraid of algae growth in near the root zone.. also does direct light affect the root development? I'm not sure maybe someone can look that up...

At any rate the air gaps are fine.. you want some air to get to the root zone as that will help with root growth as they need oxygen. Its why you don't push the stem down into the res below the hole. You want them wet but with air.

 

[F2F]

Works well for pyrocantha

Works well for pyrocantha

Did some cuttings from my firethorn shrub this way. The cuttings I took were very woody, and stubborn, but rooted in ~4wks. Interestingly, the roots never emerged from the area of stem where I scraped the outer layer.

Peace
F2F

 

[SGS]

Did some cuttings from my firethorn shrub this way. The cuttings I took were very woody, and stubborn, but rooted in ~4wks. Interestingly, the roots never emerged from the area of stem where I scraped the outer layer.

Peace
F2F

Glad to see you using this method on other things,, I have rooted tomato cuttings easily with this.

you just prolly scraped to deeply for its liking.

SGS

 

[meltybubble]

Clones normally root in 4-7 for myself, normally with some taking longer but just the odd one.
Peace

 

[Amsterdam_joe]

99% success rate! I need to learn this

 

[DoobieDuck]

SGS Doobies' never cloned, love this tutorial, might have to break outta the seed rut! DD

 

[SGS]

Hope everyone is doing well ,,
Sorry burntleaf you have having so much trouble with this. Im honestly not sure why you are... its really set it and forget it with this method.. and if I haven't mentioned it before I have found using NO rooting hormone seems to be better with this method.

SGS

 

[Im'One]

Yesssir this is the way I had to do because of not being abe to make it to the hydro store one evening and was behind on clones so I said what could it hurt its a medium and close to rock wool but I used heavy perlite lite soil for clones in the past with good results but sure enough when I use str8 perlite with no additives pure perlite and maybe a drop or 2/8oz water of Super Thrive with kelp its super concentrated so you dont even see a change in water color but I always get the extra help with it guaranteeing my success to be that much stronger and the plants dont need anything else for 2weeks just H20 & Super Thrive if u wanna test it there $10-12 for a 4oz bottle you cant believe the extra boost this gives your young & old plants but especially seed soak and clones. I love the str8 perlite method though because like you show it pulls out clean with nothing but healthy roots ready for any medium & I can reuse this perlite after a lite spray with diluted peroxide to sterilize and its ready for round 234and so on its the most eco friendly way and cheapest but best result method lol. I spoke about this years ago on Rollit up and showed this exact same method lol. I hope everyone uses it and yes you can cut holes in the side of the cups to allow just that amount of water to hold but I prefer the holes in the bottom and the side of my cups and then fill the propagation tray up about 1/2 inch full of water/superthrive or pure water with a few ml of peroxide helps tremendously for rot and disease & doesn't hurt the rooting process one bit only helps it but this way the bottom and the sides can soak up just a little bit but the evaporation from the bottom of the cup through the perlite onto the stem is what you want not the stem submerged under the water or it will rot that tip but roots will still grow above that point its just better to keep the stem a 1/2inch up frpm the bottom inside the cup of perlite so this doesn't happen and it will give you better success. I prefer the lid on my tray so I don't have to spray them but maybe once if at all. I like easiest & this is an easy sure way to get cheap high quality clones the method or how much you spend doesn't matter its the end reults so if you want to use a 5gal bucket as your tray and serran wrap the top it will work fine or cheap plastic bins you flip upside down or even a dixie cup you put a smaller one inside the idea is the same keep the stem moist but not soaked for 10-14days in 80-85F and you will get roots but perlite works better then rock wool because it doesn't hold the water as much which I prefer down south maybe in your climate u might need the extra spraying on the leaves if your in PNW its dry typically so the dome and spraying helped my low humidity problem & allowed for a better cloning process.

I'm trying the pure perlite method, very similar to your description, it's been about ten days and it looks like they are getting new leaf growth. I had used the little black square pots, and kept the lid on most of the time. It dried out twice and I added a bout a quarter inch water and super thrive a few days ago. I can't see roots sticking out yet.

 

[burntleaf]

Hey there, little update from my side: Environment was the problem in my case.

Since I have modified the closet and temps stay between 25-28°C constantly, getting roots seems to be no problem no more.
Because cloning in eazy plugs once worked, I switched back to them and all clones stay nice and green throughout the whole rooting process. Also because I still got about 200 plugs and no more perlite.
I put them in a clone box, open the vents partially after 5 days, fully after 7 days. The bottom tray gets filled with moist seramis or perlite to keep the humidity up in the 90%s.
But I never remove the dome completely before they get roots, since my RH is at 20% most of the time in the winter months. After 5-7 days the first root pops through the plug.
Here are a few nicely rooted Papaya Punch clones...took about 10 days to get this:

Since everything is tuned in temperature wise, I even get gifted with air-roots like that one:

Big up to everyone who tried to help, you guys rock!

Happy rooting and Jah Bless!

burntleaf

 

[Wiggy-Smalls]

I have a specific pheno that has been a nightmare to clone. I tried it all, spent money building stuff I still dont need, etc. This was not my first walk in the park so the frustration got real. This little bugger just did not want to root no matter what i tried (this is after a longgggg reveg to bring her back). I tried your method and followed it to the T. welp... took 21 days but I have roots and saved a pheno I have been stressed over for a couple months to be dead honest. I was suprised at how simple and easy it was to save her after trying everything I could and even had a friend try with his setup and he failed as well. This right here, is my new holy grail of cuts. Works like a charm. Thank you kindly for sharing this, helped me tremendously.

 

[KinKrit]

Cool Tutorial ! Thanks for your sharing

 

[Chappi]

Thanks for your method I was able to clone my wife, now I have sister wives who fight over me! Best method!

 

[Tgun]

I see alot of problems/mentions/solutions that I have seen myself in this thread. Thanks for posting btw. Depending on season I have different issues with cloning. I finally just got a few to root (couldn't keep temps down in a turboklone and rockwool cubes failed too) using coir and perlite. Not as many as I would like so I'll try this method as I'm about to take more. Turboklone may work better in winter time here but we will see and this should work for now.

 

[Linkino]

Thanks for sharing your method! I will try when I can. I see clearly that the temp is crucial. 22°C to 28°C seems to work well.

 

[mexweed]

I have had my best success with cloning so far and do something similar to this as I am growing hempy now

definitely use clonex, aloe doesn't not work, but clonex works a lot better, I root the cuts in root riot plugs in a typical propagator dome, from there I transplant them into to the hempy solo cup

to help survival transplanting out of the dome I place the cups in a 3 gallon bucket, mist them, and cover the top with saran wrap for the first 24-48 hours

 

[f-e]

My success rate is low if I'm down to 22c. I might get 80% of them, but they won't be great. This is partly due to the high RH of using a prop and lid. I like at least 25c and not over 30c. I find disturbance leads to failure. I feel with no root, the stomata have a real job on regulating plant moisture. Running 75-100% RH them pores will be wide open getting air. Open that lid, and the moisture loss is uncontrollable, and they can't get more easily. I just pop the prop where it's warm enough, and don't go back for 10 days. Then over the next 4 days I work the RH down towards getting the lid off (in a 60% grow area). It's then I count my chickens and water with some meaningful feed for the first time. One that has good levels of P, which might mean bloom feed + calmag to get the N up.

The only divergence from this plan is removing anything that doesn't make it. At full RH using bagged coco there is the chance of 5% rotting at the base. Not always any, and h2o2 is great. However if being sloppy, it's best to expect 5% to drop and need pulling out at 7 days. I won't lift the lid before then. 5% is nothing really, as 50% are going straight in the bin anyway. It's built in redundancy.

I take cuts with sharp clean scissors. I don't put much of an angle on. I pinch off any bits I don't want, making sure there are no free strands of green underground to rot. I don't get involved with craft knives or scraping, but do like some rooting gel that has fungicidal qualities. No way will I use organic ones. It's better not to bother.