-
ICMag with help from Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest in November! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!
Click here for Afropip Durban Poison, and GN Thai Stick or don't. I dont care.
- Thread starter Dave Coulier
- Start date
B
Baron Greenback
Nice updates, thanks. They look really healthy and happy, looking forward to seeing how this pans out.
CimeTempestose
Member
.. 
^ ngakpa real seed company https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=36899&highlight=senegal+haze&page=5
^ nguni seeds (afropips) delivered.
^ gambia/senagalese ( casamance region)
http://www.****************/forums/snowhigh-seeds/201360130-landrace-heirloom-cannabis-thread-9.html
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=36899&highlight=senegal+haze&page=5
Those DP look exactly like my old cut. DP has sligbtly broad leaves when young then will become more narrow as she grows. It is know for having a wider leaf than normal for a pure sativa, as most African strains seem to.
Loving the health of those plants! Nice job!
Best,
Les
Loving the health of those plants! Nice job!
Best,
Les
Thanks for joining in Sdd420. Im glad you like the thread so much.
The growth rates and spacing are really nice on the Thai. Everything is going according to plan for now at least.
Yes, I read that same thread. I also read the Mr. Nice Grail thread that discusses Senegal Haze, and it all seems like a fairy tale princess story about the origins of Phoenix Haze. Seeds left on the ground after a bust of Dutchgrown, someone relcaims them, and somehow those seeds end up finding their way to afroman after that to be then used in a cross of his????? Or were there even more steps involved between DG and Afroman, or none at all. Ill go with the latter.
Snowhigh even asks Nevil if Phoenix Haze is Nevils Haze x Nevils Haze:
Senegel Haze a little history gathered from here and there. The Senegel Haze is a cross of a Senegelese sativa from Zamalito crossed to Phoenix Haze. Phoenix Haze is actually Nevilles Haze crossed to Nevilles Haze with a slight chance of Nevilles Haze x Super Silver Haze. This Nevilles Haze line wasn't from Green House or Mr. Nice seeds but handed from Neville Schoenmachers private stash, from Neville himself. This stash of F1 seeds was handed to Dutchgrown to make more Nevilles Haze, unfortunately the projects was busted and only the seeds on the floor were left. These seeds collected were given to JLP to make more, thus calling it Phoenix Haze.
Is the above true Nevil? At least the part about you providing Dutch Grown some of your original Nevilles Haze around 2000-2002?
and all Nevil can say is , "It looks like Haze" while completely avoiding answering anything Snowhigh asked. Ive heard narcissistic used to describe Nevil before. Would it be narcissistic to take credit for someone elses work by saying "Looks like haze to me"?
Ive pm'd Ngapka, because he seems to be the one who first started the origins of P. Haze being Nevils Haze x Nevils Haze back in 2007. Maybe he read it on the net somewhere and then shared it, or maybe he had first hand knowledge from Afroman himself, but not even Afropips.moonfruit.com ever mentioned the word Nevils Haze in the description of Senegal Haze.
Best of luck with those beans Idiit. I hope you do get something great. I wonder how closely they are related to what Afropips was offering when he was active. They certainly dont have the excellent packaging of Afropip breeder packs.
What you say is inline with a couple other reports Ive come across regarding the leaves being thick indica like when young, and becoming more narrow as they mature. Were still sometime away from having mature plants though.
Thanks for the praise everyone. Im hoping to turn out some beautiful practical indoor thais and Durban Poison, so others will feel encouraged to try some long-flowering sativas, but only if your patient.
I love durban, I'll be sticking around for this one. 
^^ dave coulier, tremendous stuff on phoenix haze. nice job.
at least I beat the odds and actually got them. look at the sapo reviews:
^ my thoughts as well.
at least I beat the odds and actually got them. look at the sapo reviews:
http://trackmyparcel.co.za/track
I love durban, I'll be sticking around for this one.
You and me both pal. Thankfully the DP should be done by 120days or so says the strain description, but either way faster than the Thai's. The DP will probably be finishing up a 2-4 month cure before the Thai are coming down.
^^ dave coulier, tremendous stuff on phoenix haze. nice job.
^ my thoughts as well.
at least I beat the odds and actually got them. look at the sapo reviews:
http://trackmyparcel.co.za/track
Ouch, so many never delivered.. Count your lucky stars then you got yours. Plan on starting the DP or MG anytime soon?
Durban Poison Group 2 Update Day 4
Durban Poison Group 2 Update Day 4
As I let drop earlier, I have 7 new Afropip Durban Poison seedlings in my garden. Much better germination results this time around than last.
7/9(77.77%) for the 2nd batch. 11 plants total to find something special in.
They're around 4 days old now, and Ive kept them further from the light to start out this time. I wanted them to get a little leggy, so I could transplant them deeper into their next container. 3 of the other ones are so compact their bottom set of leaves are almost right on top of the soil. Makes it a PITA when it comes to watering.
Check out the lean on the plants on the right side. Ive read the last 6 inches of of flouro's on both ends have a drop off in usable light for the plants. Evidently clear by the pics. The ones on the left have much less lean. Right outside the 6" range.
They've gotten leggy enough for me now, so Ive raised them up towards the light. They're around 6" inches away right now. They'll catch up eventually. This definitely isn't a race to the finish with this line. Its a nice long peaceful relaxing stroll.
Durban Poison Group 2 Update Day 4
As I let drop earlier, I have 7 new Afropip Durban Poison seedlings in my garden. Much better germination results this time around than last.
7/9(77.77%) for the 2nd batch. 11 plants total to find something special in.
They're around 4 days old now, and Ive kept them further from the light to start out this time. I wanted them to get a little leggy, so I could transplant them deeper into their next container. 3 of the other ones are so compact their bottom set of leaves are almost right on top of the soil. Makes it a PITA when it comes to watering.
Check out the lean on the plants on the right side. Ive read the last 6 inches of of flouro's on both ends have a drop off in usable light for the plants. Evidently clear by the pics. The ones on the left have much less lean. Right outside the 6" range.
They've gotten leggy enough for me now, so Ive raised them up towards the light. They're around 6" inches away right now. They'll catch up eventually. This definitely isn't a race to the finish with this line. Its a nice long peaceful relaxing stroll.
Roughing up the rootball for transplants
Roughing up the rootball for transplants
I like lively discussions, so I present a question to all of you. When you transplant, do you roughen/loosen up the rootball in anyways, or leave it intact as it is?
When I transplanted the Thai & DP on the 13th, I roughed up the rootballs at the bottom, breaking up good chunks of roots that had matted on top of each other. I also sloughed off a thin layer of media on all sides of the rootball with the palm of my hands to remove the ends of the roots. My reasoning is this will stimulate root growth. The sloughing technique is something Ive only recently began doing. We will see how successful it was on the Day 28 update, which is just 3 days away.
Ive seen it recommended to roughen up the rootball before transplanting, but how do you do it?
Roughing up the rootball for transplants
I like lively discussions, so I present a question to all of you. When you transplant, do you roughen/loosen up the rootball in anyways, or leave it intact as it is?
When I transplanted the Thai & DP on the 13th, I roughed up the rootballs at the bottom, breaking up good chunks of roots that had matted on top of each other. I also sloughed off a thin layer of media on all sides of the rootball with the palm of my hands to remove the ends of the roots. My reasoning is this will stimulate root growth. The sloughing technique is something Ive only recently began doing. We will see how successful it was on the Day 28 update, which is just 3 days away.
Ive seen it recommended to roughen up the rootball before transplanting, but how do you do it?
Depends on the plant because it's an injury and will stall the plant for a few days. Obviously, it stimulates root growth (because the removed ones have to be replaced) and thereby leads to a better rooting-through (what's the proper expression for that?) of the soil. Without sloughing or cutting off a cm with a knife, most roots will remain in the original soil cube and the plant will hold less well (important outdoors with wind and weather).
I don't do it with seedlings because the damage is too important and might lead to death or pests. Besides, these small plants will ultimately grow big enough to be forced to grow roots outside of the original soil plug too.
Seems as (I don't know for sure if nor why but read it here and there) that cutting off of roots during transplantation especially of bigger/older plants has other benefits too but...
This goes for most plants, not only cannabis!
I don't do it with seedlings because the damage is too important and might lead to death or pests. Besides, these small plants will ultimately grow big enough to be forced to grow roots outside of the original soil plug too.
Seems as (I don't know for sure if nor why but read it here and there) that cutting off of roots during transplantation especially of bigger/older plants has other benefits too but...
This goes for most plants, not only cannabis!
I agree depends a bit on the plant. some absolutely hate it, others don't seem to skip a beat.
I only do it if the plant is majorly root bound and has the mat of circled roots on the bottom.
as an experiment I've skipped it on severely root bound plants in the past and when i pulled them up at harvest the original rootball is very obvious and the newer roots didn't seem to match the density or vigor of those inside that root ball.
that does not seem to happen if I transplant at the proper time---when the container is full of roots but before they have circled and matted.
I only do it if the plant is majorly root bound and has the mat of circled roots on the bottom.
as an experiment I've skipped it on severely root bound plants in the past and when i pulled them up at harvest the original rootball is very obvious and the newer roots didn't seem to match the density or vigor of those inside that root ball.
that does not seem to happen if I transplant at the proper time---when the container is full of roots but before they have circled and matted.
I would echo this as well. You can pull the roots and soil very easily away from the very dense original root ball. I've never busted up the original root mass though, I just plant directly into the new pot and let them do their thing. I always figured that it would stress them out unnecessarily. The only exception would be if they were very rootbound which I might try this time.
also since I'm in soil I think the perfect transplant includes applying mycorrhizae to the exposed roots and watering in with kelp tea.
CimeTempestose
Member
absolutely agree with these
opinions ... 
also since I'm in soil I think the perfect transplant includes applying mycorrhizae to the exposed roots and watering in with kelp tea.
.. about microrryzzae ..I thought the same.. but for this run I will applay them only at the last transplant that I will do ..at the end of the stratching phase.. when I'll put all the babies in a sort of home made raised bed.. to fully exploit the flowering phase...
Last edited:
Appreciate the reply.
I believe I may have temporarily injured one Thai during transplant. I did see a bit of droopiness in it the day after transplant, but that was the only plant to show any issue with my handling. By the end of the night the plant was perky again.
Almost all the plants rootballs looked like those in the Root pictures I posted previously, so I felt I kinda had to do something with all the roots matted up at the bottom. Would have been fun to left a couple alone and then compared. Too late now. Maybe another day.
It'll be fun to see how the rooting looks in a few days. I peaked down the sides of the containers last night before posting the question, and there are alot of white fuzzy roots everywhere. Plenty coming out the bottom of the containers too.
Thanks for the feedback. Ive encountered the same thing many times over after breaking up rootballs post harvest. Thick dense roots in the original rootball, but the soil falls away too easily away from the outer rootball.
I wanted to change that result, so Im trying the sloughing and breaking up of roots at the bottom. Hopefully Ill get some good success with it, but maybe I should just transplant sooner and it'll help solve my problem as in your instances.
Thanks for chiming in Whodat. It seems many of us have had a similar problem before. Maybe our discussions can lead to some tweaks in our gardens for better performance. I also think watering post transplant @ the correct time is critical for rooting success too, but that's for a latter time.
also since I'm in soil I think the perfect transplant includes applying mycorrhizae to the exposed roots and watering in with kelp tea.
I just ran out of media, and I need to pick some up. The local garden place doesn't have my old Promix Bx w/biofungicide, now they have Promix Bx with Myco & Bacillus Pumilus & Bacillus subtillis. Along with Rootshield plus, I believe Im at 4 different benies. Looks like Ill be trying out some myco in my near future now. I also have kept extract Ive had sitting in my cupboard from when I was in my organic phase. Ive not used it in years. Maybe I should pull it out and give it a try.
absolutely agree with these
.. about microrryzzae ..I thought the same.. but for this run I will applay them only at the last transplant that I will do ..at the end of the stratching phase.. when I'll put all the babies in a sort of home made raised bed.. to fully exploit the flowering phase...
Hey Cime, you would be best to apply the myco early in the life of the plants, so that it will have enough time to properly colonize the rhizosphere. I dont think you'll see a great return by using it so far into flower.
B
Bob Green
Hey Dave, Thanks for all the Senegal/Phoenix info! That is more than I have found on any other thread. Has JLP been on any forums around? Looks like he stopped posting here about five years ago. Strange coincidence I am running some of the OGBX1s that JLP passed on to Ganesh. Small world.
I am still leaning towards an African x African hybrid. I really don't remember hearing of Afroman using Haze in any of his seed lines outside of the Phoenix Haze debate. Plus like you said why would he say pure African landrace and never bring up NH/SSH?
Sounds like she carries a monster of a high!
Do you know about how long those Durban are said to flower?
