Lyfespan
Active member
been using braggs ACV to dissolve it
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Chitosan
- Thread starter King Rat
- Start date
been using braggs ACV to dissolve it
Ah, yeah. The acetic acid in there would do it.
G
Guest
So I read thru this and was wondering if I already use a good organic soil mix that's amended with crab meal and kelp meal etc will this stuff really give a noticeable boost in late flower ? I'm in week 8 of a super lemon haze run and would like to hear from the organic growers.
IMO, kelp meal added at this late date would suck up all the available N in your grow medium, since kelp meal is not in a "decomposed" state, it needs nitrogen to "break-down". You might consider a liquid seaweed extract though.
Crab meal's advantage is best when it worked into the soil/grow medium before transplant time, not as a top dressing.
Said differently, if you want those 2 inputs in your regime, then I would have included them at the beginning...not as a top dressing in week 8 for a what, 10...12 week haze?
Crab meal's advantage is best when it worked into the soil/grow medium before transplant time, not as a top dressing.
Said differently, if you want those 2 inputs in your regime, then I would have included them at the beginning...not as a top dressing in week 8 for a what, 10...12 week haze?
G
Guest
I think your replying to me. I should have said the soil has been mixed and cooked for months. Im just asking if adding chitosan is a boost or not from folks who use it in addition to a no till mix soil. I have been watering and using Kelp/Neem bubbled tea a few times alternating with MPP and adding Aloe to the water in between along with coconut. I actually have live worms in my pots from the mix I had in the back yard container.
Im asking more for the NEXT grow of Cannardo grape strain. If I can add a bit at the end of this grow for a couple weeks as a bonus its good.
Kygiacomo!!!
AppAlachiAn OutLaW
im not sure how good this stuff is but it has chitosan in it as well..i have resorted to use bud factor x bc it has no smell and im a guerilla grower so anything with crab or shellfish in it and my plants will be dug up and destoryed...
https://www.amazon.com/Tidal-Vision-Booster-High-Tide/dp/B06XBQ1W7W
https://www.amazon.com/Tidal-Vision-Booster-High-Tide/dp/B06XBQ1W7W
TheOutlawTree
Active member
^ Why not just order the oligosaccharide form from bestchitosan.com? Just recieved 4 KG from them.
Whats a good dosage on this stuff anyway? Bought 5kg years ago and did 1 gram per gallon but i remember people were saying that might be serious overkill / wasteful.
Whats a good dosage on this stuff anyway? Bought 5kg years ago and did 1 gram per gallon but i remember people were saying that might be serious overkill / wasteful.
Taken from my notes (agricultural recommendations for common field crops):
[FONT="]Chitosan and its oligosaccharide are used at 50-200 ppm for foliar application on seedlings, at 1’000 ppm to soak seeds, and at 1’000-2’500 ppm as soil drench or foliar application against bacterial diseases.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Chitosan and its oligosaccharide are used at 50-200 ppm for foliar application on seedlings, at 1’000 ppm to soak seeds, and at 1’000-2’500 ppm as soil drench or foliar application against bacterial diseases.[/FONT]
MIhomegrown
Member
What about using Shine from veg+bloom nutrients. It's a bloom booster too but not organic.
Any suggestions on a product to prevent Fusarium Wilt??? I am currently trying Mycostop, and waiting for trichoderma viride.
use it sparingly. attracts varmints and can do damage if too much applied.
TheOutlawTree
Active member
I tried 1 teaspoon in 1 gallon of water and it's only .1 mS/cm which I think is 100ppm? If that's right , I would need 125ml per gallon to achieve 2500ppm which isn't really cost effective in any commercial agriculture. I must be wrong in my conversion of this measurement to ppm?
Years ago I remember reading 1 gram per gallon but some people were saying that was potentially over kill.
You can only use the EC readings to estimate ppm with mineral salts. Chitosan is an organic molecule which brings a good part of carbohydrate with it and that isn't detectable. As a fun&learning experience add common sugar to water and use the EC meter 
.
The ppm are easier to determine with a scale. Weigh your spoon full of chitosan and divide it (in milligrams!) by 3.785 (if you're using US liquid gallons) and that's your ppm. A heaped teaspoon full of chitosan weighs probably a few grams, for ease's sake let's say 3.785 g. That's 1'000 ppm and that's used 1-3 times per crop cycle or year on agricultural crops. For everyday (or rather everyweek) use I'd try 50-200 ppm. The high doses are meant to really give the plant's immune system a kick in the a and have it full throttle in war mode (the treated plants likely have a pest or disease already and need a "cure"). That comes at a cost; you can't have it both, growth and defence (ask your president... well, HE might indeed say that economic growth and war can be had at the same time but that ain't true in biology LoL).
BTW the conversion of EC in mS/cm to ppm is a factor of 500 for US standards or in your case 50 ppm.
.The ppm are easier to determine with a scale. Weigh your spoon full of chitosan and divide it (in milligrams!) by 3.785 (if you're using US liquid gallons) and that's your ppm. A heaped teaspoon full of chitosan weighs probably a few grams, for ease's sake let's say 3.785 g. That's 1'000 ppm and that's used 1-3 times per crop cycle or year on agricultural crops. For everyday (or rather everyweek) use I'd try 50-200 ppm. The high doses are meant to really give the plant's immune system a kick in the a and have it full throttle in war mode (the treated plants likely have a pest or disease already and need a "cure"). That comes at a cost; you can't have it both, growth and defence (ask your president... well, HE might indeed say that economic growth and war can be had at the same time but that ain't true in biology LoL).
BTW the conversion of EC in mS/cm to ppm is a factor of 500 for US standards or in your case 50 ppm.
TheOutlawTree
Active member
Yeah I think it's nearly pure, not sure on exact %
Great thread, thanks to everyone who has participated (and in particular Only Ornamental)!
I'm helping a friend deal with a 'dud' type problem - Yields are fine but the flower itself is trash, very little smell / trichome / essential oil production. It started with GG#4 and spread to WiFi he started from seed. His first run of WiFi was awesome, the second run and everyvone afterward was basically hemp.
Here's the plan, based on the input of everyone in this thread:
I'll purchase Chitosan Oligosaccharide with a low molecular weight (~1500) from eBay.
For the first dose (which will only be applied to vegging / very early bloom plants), I'll foliar AND soil drench with a ~1000ppm solution (appx. 3.785 grams per gallon).
After the first dose, I'll do a weekly maintenance foliar with a ~200ppm solution (appx. 0.757 grams per gallon).
Two questions:
1) Is it safe to use this maintenance foliar from clone to harvest or should I stop after a certain point of flower?
2) Is it safe to combine my chitosan foliar with a seaweed extract foliar or my weekly JMS stylet oil spray?
Thanks again for all the great advice here!
I'm helping a friend deal with a 'dud' type problem - Yields are fine but the flower itself is trash, very little smell / trichome / essential oil production. It started with GG#4 and spread to WiFi he started from seed. His first run of WiFi was awesome, the second run and everyvone afterward was basically hemp.
Here's the plan, based on the input of everyone in this thread:
I'll purchase Chitosan Oligosaccharide with a low molecular weight (~1500) from eBay.
For the first dose (which will only be applied to vegging / very early bloom plants), I'll foliar AND soil drench with a ~1000ppm solution (appx. 3.785 grams per gallon).
After the first dose, I'll do a weekly maintenance foliar with a ~200ppm solution (appx. 0.757 grams per gallon).
Two questions:
1) Is it safe to use this maintenance foliar from clone to harvest or should I stop after a certain point of flower?
2) Is it safe to combine my chitosan foliar with a seaweed extract foliar or my weekly JMS stylet oil spray?
Thanks again for all the great advice here!
You can only use the EC readings to estimate ppm with mineral salts. Chitosan is an organic molecule which brings a good part of carbohydrate with it and that isn't detectable. As a fun&learning experience add common sugar to water and use the EC meter
The ppm are easier to determine with a scale. Weigh your spoon full of chitosan and divide it (in milligrams!) by 3.785 (if you're using US liquid gallons) and that's your ppm. A heaped teaspoon full of chitosan weighs probably a few grams, for ease's sake let's say 3.785 g. That's 1'000 ppm and that's used 1-3 times per crop cycle or year on agricultural crops. For everyday (or rather everyweek) use I'd try 50-200 ppm. The high doses are meant to really give the plant's immune system a kick in the a and have it full throttle in war mode (the treated plants likely have a pest or disease already and need a "cure"). That comes at a cost; you can't have it both, growth and defence (ask your president... well, HE might indeed say that economic growth and war can be had at the same time but that ain't true in biology LoL).
BTW the conversion of EC in mS/cm to ppm is a factor of 500 for US standards or in your case 50 ppm.
Thanks for this. I have been using an EC meter and it takes a fair amount of chitosan to reach 200ppm on the meter....If I've done the math correctly 3.785g/1000ppms = 0.757 grams/200ppm
