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Chitosan

Lyfespan

Active member
I should also mention that chitosan oligosaccharide is the stuff that dissolves in water without any acid. Basically it's chitosan that has been distilled with ethanol. We don't have the equipment (or demand, so far) to produce that variety as of yet, but (sorry to repeat myself) we can get it to you in a liquid or in a dried out flake form (think drying salt water to get sea salt), that requires an organic acid to get it to dissolve in water.

If you have any more questions, again, definitely don't hesitate to reach out to me at [email protected].

been using braggs ACV to dissolve it
 
G

Guest

So I read thru this and was wondering if I already use a good organic soil mix that's amended with crab meal and kelp meal etc will this stuff really give a noticeable boost in late flower ? I'm in week 8 of a super lemon haze run and would like to hear from the organic growers.
 

DocTim420

The Doctor is OUT and has moved on...
IMO, kelp meal added at this late date would suck up all the available N in your grow medium, since kelp meal is not in a "decomposed" state, it needs nitrogen to "break-down". You might consider a liquid seaweed extract though.

Crab meal's advantage is best when it worked into the soil/grow medium before transplant time, not as a top dressing.

Said differently, if you want those 2 inputs in your regime, then I would have included them at the beginning...not as a top dressing in week 8 for a what, 10...12 week haze?
 
G

Guest

IMO, kelp meal added at this late date would suck up all the available N in your grow medium, since kelp meal is not in a "decomposed" state, it needs nitrogen to "break-down". You might consider a liquid seaweed extract though.

Crab meal's advantage is best when it worked into the soil/grow medium before transplant time, not as a top dressing.

Said differently, if you want those 2 inputs in your regime, then I would have included them at the beginning...not as a top dressing in week 8 for a what, 10...12 week haze?

I think your replying to me. I should have said the soil has been mixed and cooked for months. Im just asking if adding chitosan is a boost or not from folks who use it in addition to a no till mix soil. I have been watering and using Kelp/Neem bubbled tea a few times alternating with MPP and adding Aloe to the water in between along with coconut. I actually have live worms in my pots from the mix I had in the back yard container.
Im asking more for the NEXT grow of Cannardo grape strain. If I can add a bit at the end of this grow for a couple weeks as a bonus its good.
 

TheOutlawTree

Active member
^ Why not just order the oligosaccharide form from bestchitosan.com? Just recieved 4 KG from them.

Whats a good dosage on this stuff anyway? Bought 5kg years ago and did 1 gram per gallon but i remember people were saying that might be serious overkill / wasteful.
 

Only Ornamental

Spiritually inspired agnostic mad scientist
Veteran
Taken from my notes (agricultural recommendations for common field crops):
[FONT=&quot]Chitosan and its oligosaccharide are used at 50-200 ppm for foliar application on seedlings, at 1’000 ppm to soak seeds, and at 1’000-2’500 ppm as soil drench or foliar application against bacterial diseases.[/FONT]
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
Taken from my notes (agricultural recommendations for common field crops):
[FONT=&quot]Chitosan and its oligosaccharide are used at 50-200 ppm for foliar application on seedlings, at 1’000 ppm to soak seeds, and at 1’000-2’500 ppm as soil drench or foliar application against bacterial diseases.[/FONT]

Any suggestions on a product to prevent Fusarium Wilt??? I am currently trying Mycostop, and waiting for trichoderma viride.
 

TheOutlawTree

Active member
Taken from my notes (agricultural recommendations for common field crops):
[FONT=&quot]Chitosan and its oligosaccharide are used at 50-200 ppm for foliar application on seedlings, at 1’000 ppm to soak seeds, and at 1’000-2’500 ppm as soil drench or foliar application against bacterial diseases.[/FONT]

I tried 1 teaspoon in 1 gallon of water and it's only .1 mS/cm which I think is 100ppm? If that's right , I would need 125ml per gallon to achieve 2500ppm which isn't really cost effective in any commercial agriculture. I must be wrong in my conversion of this measurement to ppm?

Years ago I remember reading 1 gram per gallon but some people were saying that was potentially over kill.
 

Only Ornamental

Spiritually inspired agnostic mad scientist
Veteran
You can only use the EC readings to estimate ppm with mineral salts. Chitosan is an organic molecule which brings a good part of carbohydrate with it and that isn't detectable. As a fun&learning experience add common sugar to water and use the EC meter ;) .
The ppm are easier to determine with a scale. Weigh your spoon full of chitosan and divide it (in milligrams!) by 3.785 (if you're using US liquid gallons) and that's your ppm. A heaped teaspoon full of chitosan weighs probably a few grams, for ease's sake let's say 3.785 g. That's 1'000 ppm and that's used 1-3 times per crop cycle or year on agricultural crops. For everyday (or rather everyweek) use I'd try 50-200 ppm. The high doses are meant to really give the plant's immune system a kick in the a and have it full throttle in war mode (the treated plants likely have a pest or disease already and need a "cure"). That comes at a cost; you can't have it both, growth and defence (ask your president... well, HE might indeed say that economic growth and war can be had at the same time but that ain't true in biology LoL).
BTW the conversion of EC in mS/cm to ppm is a factor of 500 for US standards or in your case 50 ppm.
 

Lyfespan

Active member
got some of the chitosan from ben and yes, you will see a difference in your bloom yields. looking to get a drum ordered up
 

beta

Active member
Veteran
Great thread, thanks to everyone who has participated (and in particular Only Ornamental)!

I'm helping a friend deal with a 'dud' type problem - Yields are fine but the flower itself is trash, very little smell / trichome / essential oil production. It started with GG#4 and spread to WiFi he started from seed. His first run of WiFi was awesome, the second run and everyvone afterward was basically hemp.

Here's the plan, based on the input of everyone in this thread:

I'll purchase Chitosan Oligosaccharide with a low molecular weight (~1500) from eBay.

For the first dose (which will only be applied to vegging / very early bloom plants), I'll foliar AND soil drench with a ~1000ppm solution (appx. 3.785 grams per gallon).

After the first dose, I'll do a weekly maintenance foliar with a ~200ppm solution (appx. 0.757 grams per gallon).

Two questions:

1) Is it safe to use this maintenance foliar from clone to harvest or should I stop after a certain point of flower?

2) Is it safe to combine my chitosan foliar with a seaweed extract foliar or my weekly JMS stylet oil spray?

Thanks again for all the great advice here!
 

beta

Active member
Veteran
Create-Shareable-Content.jpg


Great thread, thanks to everyone who has participated (and in particular Only Ornamental)!

I'm helping a friend deal with a 'dud' type problem - Yields are fine but the flower itself is trash, very little smell / trichome / essential oil production. It started with GG#4 and spread to WiFi he started from seed. His first run of WiFi was awesome, the second run and everyvone afterward was basically hemp.

Here's the plan, based on the input of everyone in this thread:

I'll purchase Chitosan Oligosaccharide with a low molecular weight (~1500) from eBay.

For the first dose (which will only be applied to vegging / very early bloom plants), I'll foliar AND soil drench with a ~1000ppm solution (appx. 3.785 grams per gallon).

After the first dose, I'll do a weekly maintenance foliar with a ~200ppm solution (appx. 0.757 grams per gallon).

Two questions:

1) Is it safe to use this maintenance foliar from clone to harvest or should I stop after a certain point of flower?

2) Is it safe to combine my chitosan foliar with a seaweed extract foliar or my weekly JMS stylet oil spray?

Thanks again for all the great advice here!
 

kalopatchkid

Well-known member
Veteran
You can only use the EC readings to estimate ppm with mineral salts. Chitosan is an organic molecule which brings a good part of carbohydrate with it and that isn't detectable. As a fun&learning experience add common sugar to water and use the EC meter ;) .
The ppm are easier to determine with a scale. Weigh your spoon full of chitosan and divide it (in milligrams!) by 3.785 (if you're using US liquid gallons) and that's your ppm. A heaped teaspoon full of chitosan weighs probably a few grams, for ease's sake let's say 3.785 g. That's 1'000 ppm and that's used 1-3 times per crop cycle or year on agricultural crops. For everyday (or rather everyweek) use I'd try 50-200 ppm. The high doses are meant to really give the plant's immune system a kick in the a and have it full throttle in war mode (the treated plants likely have a pest or disease already and need a "cure"). That comes at a cost; you can't have it both, growth and defence (ask your president... well, HE might indeed say that economic growth and war can be had at the same time but that ain't true in biology LoL).
BTW the conversion of EC in mS/cm to ppm is a factor of 500 for US standards or in your case 50 ppm.

Thanks for this. I have been using an EC meter and it takes a fair amount of chitosan to reach 200ppm on the meter....If I've done the math correctly 3.785g/1000ppms = 0.757 grams/200ppm
 

Lyfespan

Active member
chitosan has been working best if used in the mid flower times, along with the plant being already loaded with endo&ecto mycorhizia. seems they really love the simple sugars and boost the fuck out of buds
 

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