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Chief Bigsmoke's Fantasy Factory

chief bigsmoke

Active member
what could they be?


Thanks budman and GM

Here is the second HINT after the hint about two being 9 weeks and two being 11 week strains. This hint is a photo hint :grouphug:

Think BC/Global Elite...
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chief bigsmoke

Active member
the red looks like sweet skunk i saw

MMMmmm :yummy: A fine guess Greenmango! One of the strains was the Original Sweet Skunk.

info:
Very few bags of pot stand out in the sea of commercially produced cannabis grown in western Canada. Sweet Skunk, a beloved smoke among well-connected connoisseurs, is an exception. The buds have long foxtails of stacked calyxes. Once the smoke crosses the lips and the effect sets in, the lucky toker realizes just how special this strain really is. However, since it isn’t a huge yielder under most conditions and requires 10 to 14 weeks of flowering to fully mature, few growers are willing to fill their gardens with it, making it something of a specialty item up here in the North.

Sweet Skunk was originally introduced by Spice of Life Seeds in 1994. The heritage was listed as Sensi Seed’s Big Skunk x Sweet Pink Grapefruit (a.k.a. Grapefruit) at the time, but Breeder Steve later speculated that the father was likely a NL x Haze male rather than a Big Skunk. This makes sense; the Southeast Asian “Hazey” bud structure is hard to ignore. Apparently, Steve had obtained two trays of clones for a grow, one labeled “Big Skunk” and the other “NL x Haze.” Upon planting and flowering the clones, one of the trays turned out to have a male that pollinated the crop, producing the seeds sold as Sweet Skunk. (Sometimes unplanned hybridization can yield outstanding individuals.) F1 seeds were planted, and an extreme sativa-leaning selection (SS #10) was chosen out of a roomful of indica-dominant girls. This clone is now known in BC as the original Sweet Skunk clone.

So far the red has the most vigor. a really strong veg and very close internode spacing... Does that sound like the Original Sweet Skunk clone?


I promise the others will be harder to guess... :)
 

chief bigsmoke

Active member
Photo Update

Photo Update

Photo Update Time!!!!!!!! :woohoo:


Pink is the first to put on a layer of trichomes... very interesting ever evolving smell...

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Thank you
 

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chief bigsmoke

Active member
I was browsing some sweet skunk threads here on icmag and I came across someones SS that really resembles the RED clone I'm 98% positive that it is the Sweet Skunk clone as Greenmango guessed. Whatcha think?

Theirs (user: DIH419): He mentioned that his smelled like mentholated tropical peach bubblegum... yum...
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Mine:
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I should ask Green Supreme apparently he is the SS master. He pulls his about 95 days... hot diggity I'm stoked. My patient will be stoked and a happy gf/patient is a happy me.In the meantime she had some nice orange kush donated to her to keep her smilin' :angelshug: in the meantime
 

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DIDM

Malaika
Veteran
strawberry cough alien kush


i was just looking at this the other day, I'm intrigued


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chief bigsmoke

Active member
strawberry cough alien kush


i was just looking at this the other day, I'm intrigued



This strain was a good tasting and smelling selection. a strawberry cherry incense smell and an earthy taste. My lady liked it because it was a mild high but still had some enough CBD to add to its medicinal qualities. She could also use it during the day with little sketchy or racey times. The buds were too airy/fluffy though. a low-med yielding plant. needs a long veg. a solid B. I'll have to give them another run sometime in the future... just my opinion.

My strawberry alien kush (R.I.P.) from my last cycle.
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J

J.C.grower

sweet thread chief! love the LST work you do on your ladies!:tiphat: those meds sure do look like they are a pain reliever and great remedy.
:respect:
JC
 

chief bigsmoke

Active member
Daily photo update

Daily photo update

I'm starting to really enjoy the early flower period. So much is happening all at once. Each plant is like a mini rube goldberg machine with a variety of complicated systems and connections, all working as one for the greater good.

:groupwave:


The 3 remaining Mystery Clones
- one is an 11 week species and the other two are 9 weeks species. Based on the RED clone being the Original Sweet Skunk Clone.

BLUE Mystery Clone
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White Mystery Clone
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Pink Mystery Clone
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chief bigsmoke

Active member
Well, well, well... Mr Powdery mildew I knew we would meet one day, but I didn't know it would be so soon...

As the evidence lies, we can also generate a clue that the PINK mystery clone(s) is also susceptible to PM. Since 3/4 have been selected as a host for the PM. No signs on the other plants yet, but its best to put my controls to quick action.
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First of all I can trace the source of the issue to my veg tent. It currently is a very basic 2x4 tent with a 400w lumatek ballast with a 400w mh... wattage adjusted on ballasts to 250W to keep the heat at a minimum but I guess there were too many hot and dry moments that lead to the situation that we are in today.

My plants are healthy and have the proper immune support to battle this cunning foe. :dueling: Its just up to me to apply a couple controls in attempts to rid this monster. I've read it enough in books that its time to apply some knowledge...



Once the disease becomes a problem:
From: http://www.uri.edu/ce/factsheets/sheets/powderymildew.html


• Avoid late-summer applications of nitrogen fertilizer to limit the production of succulent tissue (which is more susceptible to infection).
• Avoid overhead watering to help reduce the relative humidity or water in the early morning to let the tissue dry as soon as possible.
• Remove and destroy all infected plant parts (leaves, etc.). For infected vegetables and other annuals, remove as much of the plant and its debris in the fall. This decreases the ability of the fungus to survive the winter. Do not compost infected plant debris. Temperatures often are not hot enough to kill the fungus.
• Selectively prune overcrowded plant material to help increase air circulation. This helps reduce relative humidity and infection.
• An alternative nontoxic control for mildew is baking soda combined with a lightweight horticultural oil. Researchers at the University of Rhode Island have confirmed that a combination of 1 tablespoon baking soda plus 2.5 tablespoons oil in 1 gallon of water is effective against powdery mildew on roses. Use of this combination on other crops is still experimental.

----------------------------------------------------------
I'll be using this spray

It won't get rid of the fungus on leaves that already have it, but it will prevent it from spreading to the rest of the plant.

Ingredients:

  • 1 gallon of water
  • 1 tablespoon of baking soda
  • 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil
  • 1 tablespoon of dishwashing liquids
  • Mix the ingredients together and add them to a spray bottle. Spray your plants weekly, preferably on overcast days to prevent it from burning the foliage.
------------------------------------------------------
*Note regarding Potassium Bicarbonate and home-made solutions using baking soda. Be careful to avoid injury to the plants, and note that baking soda can have adverse effects on the soil when over used. Baking soda solutions can use salad oil as a spreader-sticker, or horticultural oil (which adds eradicant capabilities).

I'll apply the spray in the morning so that the plants have ample time to dry out the plants. I want to keep the Relative humidity down... above 90% makes pm happy and my plants sad :watchplant:

I'll have to wait and then reevaluate the scenario and apply NEEM oil next and Piranha to add beneficial fungi to fight the pm... or my SNS control for fungus containing thyme oil and other natural agents
 

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Anything food grade organic to change the pH on the surface of the leaves that doesn't damage/burn the tissue of the plant should work on it. Right now our mite/pm cure is water with raw neem oil and Dr. Bronner's ('sal suds' this time because we found the pH is higher in sal suds compared to reg dr. bronner's castille soaps) as the emulsifier. Our neighbors say they knocked out their pm with acv (apple cider vinegar).

Dynagrow pro-tekt, potassuim silicate, is a critical component in the pacific northwest organic gardens because it strengthens the cell walls (silicone strengthens cell walls) stronger cell walls are more resistant to attack... in fact, on rounds that we've run out of dyna-grow we get attacked fiercely.

Usually within a week of using pro-tekt, the plants' cells are much more resistant to attack. And of course, we use double strength.

Actinovate works, but 4x the strength is required! Be sure to get your walls, floors, pots, outside your intake (sulphur is great for our raspberry bushes outside of my intake) your lawn etc..... all preventative measures. We spray all the landscaping foliage that is susceptible to the PM with the common sulphur solution.
 

chief bigsmoke

Active member
Anything food grade organic to change the pH on the surface of the leaves that doesn't damage/burn the tissue of the plant should work on it. Right now our mite/pm cure is water with raw neem oil and Dr. Bronner's ('sal suds' this time because we found the pH is higher in sal suds compared to reg dr. bronner's castille soaps) as the emulsifier. Our neighbors say they knocked out their pm with acv (apple cider vinegar).

Dynagrow pro-tekt, potassuim silicate, is a critical component in the pacific northwest organic gardens because it strengthens the cell walls (silicone strengthens cell walls) stronger cell walls are more resistant to attack... in fact, on rounds that we've run out of dyna-grow we get attacked fiercely.
.

great tip to purchase dynagrow protekt. potassium silica was something I had my first cycle but forgot to buy again before I ran short and $ this round. I'll pop online and grab a bottle asap.

I'm curious about the ACV application too. I might not ever use this method I was just curious. you must have to use a little to avoid pH imbalances...

I went ahead and sprayed the plants with a 10ml Neem oil per litre of water, instead of a baking soda mixture today. I forgot to add the soap or oil though. I'll make sure I source some appropriate oil/soap in 7 days when I have to reapply my controls. So far only one out of the four species have contracted the pm strain, so I'm hoping the PINK clone just has a weakness to PM.

-------------------------------------------------
Neem Oil http://www.igrowhydro.com/InfoSheets/InfoSheet-PowderyMildew.pdf
Neem oil is also known to help prevent powdery mildew from “taking root” and thus colonizing a garden. Neem works best
if sprayed consisently every 3 days. We suggest Einstein Oil because it is “cold pressed” and retains more of the active indgredients
than other products. Mix with Coco-wet and apply at lowest dosage at first. Raise dosage up slightly every spray
until max application rate is reached.


* I also learned that spraying the plants with plain water every morning will help. Apparently PM hates water.


Thanks again for all your suggestions. I listen carefully when you pros are chattin'
 

budman678

I come from the land where the oceans freeze
Veteran
GOOD LUCK.

IVE BEEN HEARING ALOT about protekt. how do you apply it? i have heard of lockout of P occuring?
 

chief bigsmoke

Active member
GOOD LUCK.

IVE BEEN HEARING ALOT about protekt. how do you apply it? i have heard of lockout of P occuring?

thanks for popping back in budman! Thanks for your words of encouragement

I haven't used protekt yet so I'm happy these issues have come up. This is what USER Dizzlekush mentioned about this product:

Dyna Gro suggests to always add Potassium Silicate first before any other nutrient to your solution. if i remember correctly, the molecular structure to potassium silicate is rather open and therefore can act as a mild surfactant and can bond easily to other molecules.
 

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