100bucksaneigth
Member
hey cc awesome job on the chems, i was wondering if you are using RO water and if so , during the flushing weeks, do you use cal-mag?
-
As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.
Chemdog D flush HARD!!! :)
- Thread starter Crazy Composer
- Start date
summitoker
Member
Can you tell me about the mix they are growing in?
K
kallenavndk
Crazy Composer said:Apparently a lot of you appreciate ugly weed.hehehe
But I have several more pics I took of this lady, and will take more of a more manicured nature maybe tomorrow... to get a good, clean look at the buds themselves.
One of the awesome issues with Chem D is the weight, which causes the branches to start falling all over at around 35-40 days of flower. Every crop of Chem D reaching 40 days reminds me... buy some damn tomato cages for these things! hehehe You can see how the heads turn downward from the weight of dense flowers.
This plant makes me smile every time I see it. It makes me smile when I water the plants, when I have to stake them up to keep them from breaking themselves, and when I harvest them. During harvest, all you need scissors for is to cut the limbs from the plant... the rest can easily be done by hand. Amazing plant, through and through.
I like this picture... it shows the forefront buds turned downward from the weight of the head, and the background nugs are still upright, proper-like.
Sit dog sit
damn nice plant m8
Crazy Composer said:Hindu Killer, dank is absolutely right.
Chemdog D tends to double its height in 12/12, which is better than Sour Diesel or OG Kush, which tend to triple in height.
As for odor control... yes, they stink. Believe it! hehehe
Heya Haze,
The most important aspect of flushing is... never feeding more than the plant needs. It's hard for me to explain my feeding technique to people because there's no set schedule I follow (I know you asked about flushing... stick with me here). I refer to my feeding technique as "chasing nitrogen". I feed when my plants start to look like they can use it, when the leaf stems start to purple up, the leaves look like they might start yellowing if I don't feed them.
Flushing is easy if you have never fed more than the plant could use. The trick is to learn what amounts work for your garden... every garden will require different amounts, based on light intensity, light efficiency (how well the light is blocked in with the plants), heat, humidity, etc. Once you know how much (or how little) to feed them to achieve the bare minimum nutrient needs of the plants... you are well on your way to a perfect flush.
At flushing time, a plant having been fed the bare bones minimum, will flush very quickly. A plant having been fed more than it needed, however, may NEVER be thoroughly flushable.
You ask: ... Yes. Anything that clouds the water is likely going to also get into the plant's "blood stream", and you don't want anything but water in there, if you can help it.
because i do NFT Hydro it is easy to explain my feeding style......
when i first set my tank, i do 100L at EC 0.7......
then il run the tank for 4 days and watch the EC in the tank drop...so i know its feeding !!!....
after 4 days there will only be 50L left in the tank at an EC of 0.5 "or somethin like that"....i top up the tank to 100L with plain water [PH 5.5]... il take the EC reading again after the topup, from this i can see exactly what it has used from the first time i mixed the nute`s 4 days ago,it usaly ends up at half strenght EC 0.35.....
the extra water makes the EC go very low[EC 0.35], but the plants love the brake from high strengh nutes.....
2 days after topup il take everything out of the tank and refill "plain" water ph5.5...il run the plain water for 20 hours give or take an hour .....this takes us to the 7th day.....
on the 1st day of every week il refill at a higher EC ......eg.... EC 1.0.....you will know if your over feeding from the first 4 days after you set the tank .....if you are over feeding the EC in the tank will go UP..... the plants will use more water than nutes = EC going up.....i i also watch for the leaf tips burning to tell me if im slighly over feeding....
so i sort of feed it in waves....they seem to love burnin off the nutes they have built up inside...on the 20 hour water flush they move way quicker than when they are in the nutes
Last edited:
G
Guest
dang>>>i have to get out more^^^JEEEZ CC >>>wow!
G
Greyskull
fucking aye, what you said!joeshmoe said:
aye caramba thats nice buds!
Hey CC
First, great thread with great pics. My CDD experience is yet to come, I might even pick up a pack and grow it thanks to your write-up.
I don't want to crash the party, but I noted this in your introductory text:
Let's take this from the beginning, in order to avoid confusion and misunderstandings.
The products of photosynthesis are oxygen gas, water and glucose, or carbohydrates.
The glucose is oxidised and stored as ATP (adenosine triphosphate) - or to simplify - as starch in cell walls, for use of the cell. The reaction can be summarised by the equation:
6CO2(g) + 6H2O light > C6H12O6 + 6O2(g)
Plant sugars and other photosynthates are first translocated to a fruiting site, or bud site. If the plant is not flowering, the sugars, along with excess nitrates, goes into vegetative growth of the plant. The left-over sugars, etc. then go to the roots, to aid their growth. Here the new root hairs take up nutrients to help continue the cycle of sugar and other photosynthate production, fruiting, vegetal growth and roots.
Note that this is the priorities of a flowering plant. A young vegetating seedling will prioritate root growth. An older vegetating plant will prioritate vegetal mass (new shoots). But in a flowering plant, during photosynthesis, the flower (bud) sites always gets the first crack at the sugar supply.
Roots do to a certain extent store starches and nutrients, just as the rest of the plant. Some plant species have developed special 'storage' roots, feeding the plant when need be. This is common in some biennial plants, that needs the storage to survive the winter. Carrots are storage roots, horesradish and parsnips too. Cannabis on the other hand is an annuary plant, and do not store food for the winter. It puts it all into explosive growth and flowering. The more you feed it and the higher the photosynthesis, the faster and more abundantly it grows (although the two need to complement eachother).
Some starches do go down into the roots yes. But I have never come across any research indicating that all starches in Cannabis is drained to the roots during the night cycle for storage. Why on earth would it do that? Simply because the photosynthesis stops? And then only to ship it back up to the flower sites again when light reactivates photosynthesis?
I'm not going to exclude it as a possibility, but I would like to see some research backing this theory up before taking it seriously.
So, IMO, no need to cut your plants during the night for this reason.
I see no other good reason to cut your plants during night either (except for outdoor guerilla growers, of course). You may have a point about the increase of nutrients during photosynthesis, but how much nutrients are we really talking about? Besides, Cannabis do grow at night (much less than during day, since the nutrient uptake is only efficient in combination with photosynthesis), so nutrient distribution to the plant is constantly ongoing.
The whole theory about a prolonged dark cycle before harvesting for increased resin production has proved to be scientifically unfounded, even though some growers cling to it and claim results.
Bill Drake claims (in his book "The Cultivator's Handbook of Marijuana") that the resin production is the most intense during the hour immediately preceding the peak temperature of the afternoon (outdoors).
With this in mind, it might be a good idea to cut your plant at the end of the day, after the resin build-up, rather then in the beginning. Although, I doubt that it does a whole lot of difference to the crop quality. It's how you grow it that matters, not how you kill it
First, great thread with great pics. My CDD experience is yet to come, I might even pick up a pack and grow it thanks to your write-up.
I don't want to crash the party, but I noted this in your introductory text:
Crazy Composer said:
Let's take this from the beginning, in order to avoid confusion and misunderstandings.
The products of photosynthesis are oxygen gas, water and glucose, or carbohydrates.
The glucose is oxidised and stored as ATP (adenosine triphosphate) - or to simplify - as starch in cell walls, for use of the cell. The reaction can be summarised by the equation:
6CO2(g) + 6H2O light > C6H12O6 + 6O2(g)
Plant sugars and other photosynthates are first translocated to a fruiting site, or bud site. If the plant is not flowering, the sugars, along with excess nitrates, goes into vegetative growth of the plant. The left-over sugars, etc. then go to the roots, to aid their growth. Here the new root hairs take up nutrients to help continue the cycle of sugar and other photosynthate production, fruiting, vegetal growth and roots.
Note that this is the priorities of a flowering plant. A young vegetating seedling will prioritate root growth. An older vegetating plant will prioritate vegetal mass (new shoots). But in a flowering plant, during photosynthesis, the flower (bud) sites always gets the first crack at the sugar supply.
Roots do to a certain extent store starches and nutrients, just as the rest of the plant. Some plant species have developed special 'storage' roots, feeding the plant when need be. This is common in some biennial plants, that needs the storage to survive the winter. Carrots are storage roots, horesradish and parsnips too. Cannabis on the other hand is an annuary plant, and do not store food for the winter. It puts it all into explosive growth and flowering. The more you feed it and the higher the photosynthesis, the faster and more abundantly it grows (although the two need to complement eachother).
Some starches do go down into the roots yes. But I have never come across any research indicating that all starches in Cannabis is drained to the roots during the night cycle for storage. Why on earth would it do that? Simply because the photosynthesis stops? And then only to ship it back up to the flower sites again when light reactivates photosynthesis?
I'm not going to exclude it as a possibility, but I would like to see some research backing this theory up before taking it seriously.
So, IMO, no need to cut your plants during the night for this reason.
I see no other good reason to cut your plants during night either (except for outdoor guerilla growers, of course). You may have a point about the increase of nutrients during photosynthesis, but how much nutrients are we really talking about? Besides, Cannabis do grow at night (much less than during day, since the nutrient uptake is only efficient in combination with photosynthesis), so nutrient distribution to the plant is constantly ongoing.
The whole theory about a prolonged dark cycle before harvesting for increased resin production has proved to be scientifically unfounded, even though some growers cling to it and claim results.
Bill Drake claims (in his book "The Cultivator's Handbook of Marijuana") that the resin production is the most intense during the hour immediately preceding the peak temperature of the afternoon (outdoors).
With this in mind, it might be a good idea to cut your plant at the end of the day, after the resin build-up, rather then in the beginning. Although, I doubt that it does a whole lot of difference to the crop quality. It's how you grow it that matters, not how you kill it
Last edited:
polskionjetski
Member
wow Crazy awesome, can i add mines pics and reflections
chem d bx1 pheno 1
chem d bx1 pheno 2
53 days from switching 12/12 started to flush em on 23th, the buds are tight structure nuggets and pretty heavy, You got to help em not to goin down , not a fluffy shit ( hatem em), lots of trichs, short flo time, not need to vegem to long too, lovely plant, i`m just very curious the taste and high, soon gheghegheghege soon i will taste em, ghegehgehegheg
cheers Compo for the thread
polish representative
chem d bx1 pheno 1
chem d bx1 pheno 2
53 days from switching 12/12 started to flush em on 23th, the buds are tight structure nuggets and pretty heavy, You got to help em not to goin down , not a fluffy shit ( hatem em), lots of trichs, short flo time, not need to vegem to long too, lovely plant, i`m just very curious the taste and high, soon gheghegheghege soon i will taste em, ghegehgehegheg
cheers Compo for the thread
polish representative
M
mexilandrace
I grow organic so I don't really flush too much anymore.
When I did flush I got the same kind of crispy looking leaves as you do.
I don't get how people have perfectly healthy looking leaves other than they are just yellow. I mean perfect looking leaves but almost white.
When I did flush I got the same kind of crispy looking leaves as you do.
I don't get how people have perfectly healthy looking leaves other than they are just yellow. I mean perfect looking leaves but almost white.
H
Hazeseeker
Thanks again for the flushing info CC
, started the flush on the 1st pheno today (NL#5xHaze day 70 of flower today),
35 + litres of water through 11 litres of compost (approx 1.5 tsp Black Treacle per Gallon of water),
gonna flush for approx 3 weeks
, started the flush on the 1st pheno today (NL#5xHaze day 70 of flower today),35 + litres of water through 11 litres of compost (approx 1.5 tsp Black Treacle per Gallon of water),
gonna flush for approx 3 weeks
TricksR4Kids
Member
is it just me or is that actually 3 plants in one pot?
Just one.
Wow, Amazing looking buds and great flush. Too often people miss this insanly valuable step. I found this thread because i am about to run a Chem cut, well 12 of them really ha ha. i almost went with the Sour D but i dont like the long stretch. maybe next time.
I plan to let them go for ~ 9 weeks depending on the trichs. (hopefully by then i can buy a nice macro lense too) Around day 50 i will use only Clearex. Then for the next 2 weeks only RO.
Do you notice 'too much' decrease in yied with a flush this long? I expect my leaves to be falling off by then since i'm e&f.
I plan to let them go for ~ 9 weeks depending on the trichs. (hopefully by then i can buy a nice macro lense too) Around day 50 i will use only Clearex. Then for the next 2 weeks only RO.
Do you notice 'too much' decrease in yied with a flush this long? I expect my leaves to be falling off by then since i'm e&f.
Decrease in yield? No. You want to let them do all their growing before starting the flush. The ripening stage is mostly about the degradation of the terpenes. The smell will go from good to great when the terpenes are sufficiently ripe. So, when the plant is all done bulking up, and the pistils are dying away in droves, and the calyxes are swelling... start the flush. By the time the plant is flushed, they should be ripe. If not, just wait a little longer. Using a bit of carbohydrate (sugar) can also prolong the ripening process. There's plenty about carbs in this thread, I believe.
peace, good will,
cc
peace, good will,
cc
this is one hardcore plant! i have grown a few cuts from the chem family now, chem d-ecsd-ffa. got the tahoe cut coming, an s1 headband in veg right now, and im getting some beans of chem d x sfv. so far, the chem d is the strongest of the three ive grown. got one going at day late teens and i cant wait for her to be done!!!!! miss her greatly,
--CC, what have you heard, if anything, about TMV (tobacco mosaic virus), and chem d's resistance, or lack thereof, to it?
--CC, what have you heard, if anything, about TMV (tobacco mosaic virus), and chem d's resistance, or lack thereof, to it?
O
olddrifter66
Great job CC...the lady is beautiful...
Hey CC,
Thanks for the advice, i feel like i'm gonna be letting them go a little long with that method, but i'm gonna give it a try. Sounds like this high is gonna be more like a ground and pound from Chuck Liddell but i'm liking it.
Real quick, what do you think... i know its depends on a lot of things but if i was gonna go 9 weeks, in your opinion should i go 8 and flush hard for 2 and make it a 10 weeker?
maybe i'm not getting it.... from your advice i want to finish her up before the flush...
i'll post a pic if you dont mind when that time comes... and what a happy time that will be...
oh, and i only ask cuz ur shit's bomb.. know that.
Thanks for the advice, i feel like i'm gonna be letting them go a little long with that method, but i'm gonna give it a try. Sounds like this high is gonna be more like a ground and pound from Chuck Liddell but i'm liking it.
Real quick, what do you think... i know its depends on a lot of things but if i was gonna go 9 weeks, in your opinion should i go 8 and flush hard for 2 and make it a 10 weeker?
maybe i'm not getting it.... from your advice i want to finish her up before the flush...
i'll post a pic if you dont mind when that time comes... and what a happy time that will be...
oh, and i only ask cuz ur shit's bomb.. know that.
Last edited:
notagonnaworrie, You don't want them finished before flushing, you want them almost finished before finishing. Chem D can easily go 11 weeks without losing anythin at all. In fact, I did an 80 run of CDD last grow and I liked that version better than any other I've grown. The taste and the high were both at their pinnacle IMO.
CDD is good any time after 60 days, but gets better at LEAST up until 80 days. So there's plenty of time to get a good flush in.
As far as the flush goes... clean is clean is clean. If you don't feed very much in the first place, your flush might not take very long. However, if you feed em hard, then you'll need to flush longer to get them to yellow up.
I recently read an interesting theory about flushing... I just started to experiment with it last night... Flushing with out-of-range pH water. In other words, giving the plants ONLY water that is not in the pH sweet spot of between 5.7-6.3 (ish). I gave a nearly finished plant water at almost 8.0 last night. The idea is to lock out nutrients by giving the plants water at a pH that won't allow nutrient uptake to occur. It's just a theory right now, but it sure does make sense. The only thing I can see getting harmed is the taste... but that's not proven either. One way or the other...I have an experiment under way right now to see for myself if this theory can work. If it DOES, I may be making some changes. Stay gooned.
cc
CDD is good any time after 60 days, but gets better at LEAST up until 80 days. So there's plenty of time to get a good flush in.
As far as the flush goes... clean is clean is clean. If you don't feed very much in the first place, your flush might not take very long. However, if you feed em hard, then you'll need to flush longer to get them to yellow up.
I recently read an interesting theory about flushing... I just started to experiment with it last night... Flushing with out-of-range pH water. In other words, giving the plants ONLY water that is not in the pH sweet spot of between 5.7-6.3 (ish). I gave a nearly finished plant water at almost 8.0 last night. The idea is to lock out nutrients by giving the plants water at a pH that won't allow nutrient uptake to occur. It's just a theory right now, but it sure does make sense. The only thing I can see getting harmed is the taste... but that's not proven either. One way or the other...I have an experiment under way right now to see for myself if this theory can work. If it DOES, I may be making some changes. Stay gooned.
cc
