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changed from soil to coco, due to pandemic needed to use bricks, now need to change to rockwool

DaEarl73

Well-known member
high there,

until now handwatering the rockwool cube was not a problem, you just have to put the water in slowly, otherwise it just spit outside. there really fit a lot of water. keep them moisty, never let them dry out. i feed them until the water run off. i feeded them every second day and they are doing great. never had stems like that. now that i got the dripsystem it makes everything much easier. for me the question that i had, if i can do the same system i did with coco, i can do with rockwool, i would answer with yes. the cubes are 15cm. next step will be deleaving, filling new tent, veg the plants there for 3 weeks, cut clones, after 3 weeks clones are ready and first tent harvest too. from there it will repeat in the same rythm.

have a nice one, grow on
 
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DaEarl73

Well-known member
After transplanting a lot of them get stunt, guess I overwatered them, really fucked up, never had issues like that. I have to understand rockwool better, but I guess after mistakes like that I will learn it the hard way. Now I try to fix it. My 6 week system is behind like this, hope I am able to cut some clones next week to fill the other tent that will finish in some weeks. I am still able to go after my time table but have to trick a bit. Every Tipp you can give me is very appreciated
 

Ca++

Well-known member
Not sure which transplant you mean.
Moving 1.5" cutting blocks to 4" ? That is about 8 times more water. Some needs draining out, as you never really want more than a few days between watering. Must of us are not running a sterile grow, so water sat 3 days is not good. H2O2 is well worth having as a rockwool grower.
 

DaEarl73

Well-known member
Not sure which transplant you mean.
Moving 1.5" cutting blocks to 4" ? That is about 8 times more water. Some needs draining out, as you never really want more than a few days between watering. Must of us are not running a sterile grow, so water sat 3 days is not good. H2O2 is well worth having as a rockwool grower.
How to use the h2o2, how many % solution to sterilize? I read often that people use it, I didn’t figure out how to use it in the best way?
 

DaEarl73

Well-known member
No difference from soil. Existing roots can flood/drain without issues. The water demand will make itself known. Kept neither dry nor wet until then.
Thanks, I had something similar with coco in the beginning, because I used bricks it was a bit too wet in the beginning and I had to let them dryback. Now I guess I was too afraid that the rockwool get to dry that I kept it too wet. Next time I will not have this issue no more. Now it’s just a pain in the ass because they should be strong already and ready to rumble. But yeah, I guess I need some patience hahahaha thanks a lot for your responses ! Appreciate it!
 

G.O. Joe

Well-known member
Veteran
This is why I mentioned the ways that I remove water from the small, medium, and large cubes, because they can't be colonized in a saturated condition. Draining a hugo with a corner down in the mouth of a jar puts it in a place about as wet as you want it to get for a while, and draining by stacking one cube on another sucks the top cube about as dry as you ever want it to get.
 

alpo

Active member
How to use the h2o2, how many % solution to sterilize? I read often that people use it, I didn’t figure out how to use it in the best way?

there are a few products like Athena Cleanse which is hypochlorous acid.

"hypochlorous was more effective at eliminating biofilm bacteria than hydrogen peroxide, achieving higher kill logs in a shorter amount of time." -google

they have recommended dose too
 
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Ca++

Well-known member
My suggestion of h2o2 wasn't for sterilising things. It was for the oxygen.
You can't actual over water them. When we add too much water, and it causes problems, it's not the water at fault. It's the water loosing aeration. Think about dwc. There is no 'over watering' it's a misconception. It's oxygen starvation we are looking at. Oxygen requirements at the root are of upmost importance, but growers treat the topic like they are blinkered. It's like people can't see one of the most important aspects of growing, and will talk of too much water, rather than too little oxygen.

The bio life that creeps into grows, will reduce the oxygen levels in the water. Oxygen levels I would rather play with, than co2 levels above ground. Oxygen levels are directly linked to growth rates. As the oxygen levels drop, the plant becomes unable to grow. Eventually, it will sit there and die, if it can't remove enough water to draw oxygen in to replace it.

If the blocks remain soaked in 3 days, without having the water changed, and bio-life living it in, then the water is useless. The grow will stall through oxygen depletion. People will call 'over watering' but in reality, you can get some freshly oxygenated water, and water them some more, to save them. They don't care about water quantity. The idea of dry back is twisted to this water story. We dry them out, not to remove water, but to draw in air. They love air. They can't live without oxygen at the root. Which is an extremely important growth regulator.

Forget over-watering. It's a red herring. The issue is oxygenation.
 

DaEarl73

Well-known member
My suggestion of h2o2 wasn't for sterilising things. It was for the oxygen.
You can't actual over water them. When we add too much water, and it causes problems, it's not the water at fault. It's the water loosing aeration. Think about dwc. There is no 'over watering' it's a misconception. It's oxygen starvation we are looking at. Oxygen requirements at the root are of upmost importance, but growers treat the topic like they are blinkered. It's like people can't see one of the most important aspects of growing, and will talk of too much water, rather than too little oxygen.

The bio life that creeps into grows, will reduce the oxygen levels in the water. Oxygen levels I would rather play with, than co2 levels above ground. Oxygen levels are directly linked to growth rates. As the oxygen levels drop, the plant becomes unable to grow. Eventually, it will sit there and die, if it can't remove enough water to draw oxygen in to replace it.

If the blocks remain soaked in 3 days, without having the water changed, and bio-life living it in, then the water is useless. The grow will stall through oxygen depletion. People will call 'over watering' but in reality, you can get some freshly oxygenated water, and water them some more, to save them. They don't care about water quantity. The idea of dry back is twisted to this water story. We dry them out, not to remove water, but to draw in air. They love air. They can't live without oxygen at the root. Which is an extremely important growth regulator.

Forget over-watering. It's a red herring. The issue is oxygenation.
I am aware of that. Because they had been so wet, they miss oxygen. If I put a bit of h2o2 into the water I can rise the oxygen in the water? What is the ratio? Thanks, helps a lot
 

Ca++

Well-known member
I have not seen your system, but generally you would fertigate with the addition of about 100ppm of h2o2. In these situations, it's nearly always going to be poured evenly over the entire surface. The idea is, to totally displace the original fluid, using the new.

How to mix your bucket to 100ppm depends on how strong the h2o2 is, and how big the bucket is. We can work it out though, or check your figures. Or there will be people who use it enough to just give you an amount per whatever. We really need to know what you have though. 35% is common, but banned in some of the EU where iirc is 12 or 17.5%. While the local store sells 3%.
 

DaEarl73

Well-known member
I have not seen your system, but generally you would fertigate with the addition of about 100ppm of h2o2. In these situations, it's nearly always going to be poured evenly over the entire surface. The idea is, to totally displace the original fluid, using the new.

How to mix your bucket to 100ppm depends on how strong the h2o2 is, and how big the bucket is. We can work it out though, or check your figures. Or there will be people who use it enough to just give you an amount per whatever. We really need to know what you have though. 35% is common, but banned in some of the EU where iirc is 12 or 17.5%. While the local store sells 3%.
I found a chart how to mix it, for 35 and 3%, so I mix everything the same with adjusted ph and put the h2o2 and give water until runoff? Do I understand you right?
 

DaEarl73

Well-known member
I have not seen your system, but generally you would fertigate with the addition of about 100ppm of h2o2. In these situations, it's nearly always going to be poured evenly over the entire surface. The idea is, to totally displace the original fluid, using the new.

How to mix your bucket to 100ppm depends on how strong the h2o2 is, and how big the bucket is. We can work it out though, or check your figures. Or there will be people who use it enough to just give you an amount per whatever. We really need to know what you have though. 35% is common, but banned in some of the EU where iirc is 12 or 17.5%. While the local store sells 3%.
Was something around 250ml of 3% h2o2 solution on 10l. Do you think that should be good? Thanks for all your tips! Appreciate it
 

Ca++

Well-known member
I found a chart how to mix it, for 35 and 3%, so I mix everything the same with adjusted ph and put the h2o2 and give water until runoff? Do I understand you right?
Is it blocks?
Pour evenly over the blocks surface.
Whatever is in the block before you start, wants to come out. We are not just watering until runoff, we are watering to flush out everything that is in there. Replacing all the old water, with new fizzy stuff.


250ml in 10L ?
I might be a bit too far gone to work that out. It seems excessive.
 

DaEarl73

Well-known member
Is it blocks?
Pour evenly over the blocks surface.
Whatever is in the block before you start, wants to come out. We are not just watering until runoff, we are watering to flush out everything that is in there. Replacing all the old water, with new fizzy stuff.


250ml in 10L ?
I might be a bit too far gone to work that out. It seems excessive.
Thanks, 250ml of 3% in 10l, it’s around 75ppm or I missed something?
 

Ca++

Well-known member
A zero I reckon. 750ppm.

It's 9:40am though, so I might change my mind after some sleep. I don't think so though..
 

DaEarl73

Well-known member
I figured it out, with a 3% solution to get 100ppm of h2o2 I need to put 3.3ml/l. Thanks for all the input!
 

Ca++

Well-known member
My baseline, the maths from which all my ppm calcs work, is looking at the percentage of what I'm adding, and think of it going into 10L. This is no maths.
Here we have a 3% solution. We put 1ml in 10L and we get 3ppm. No maths.
A little math tells us that in 1L of water, it would be 10x stronger, so 30ppm.
So I see that 100ppm would be about 3.3ml per liter.
It all works properly in metric.

Now while that is a healthy level, it's by no means as high as you could go. The suggestion of 100ppm is often given, and indeed livestock water supplies should be 30+ and drinking supplies can follow similar numbers. Where in some states it is in fact added, and may come out the tap as high as 100ppm or more.

It seems mine is now 12%, following it's abuse in bomb making. I'm happy to go with 2ml per liter at a push.
Quick no math.. 1 ml of 12% in 10L is 12ppm and I'm doing it in 1L. 120ppm, which I can double. I have found cuttings in wool don't like more than 60ppm added on the first day, but when rooted I have been past 500ppm, where I could actually hear them fizzing away a yeast build up I had.

The fact the h2o2 might find something to do, means it's levels are dropping. I'm in coco (and soil-less) these days, so go in around 200ppm, even on a daily routine. You may want to aim for 100ppm as that's nice fresh water, or if you want to walk in my shoes, double up. They love it, but if you only have 3% to hand, you probably need to be a little more conservative with it.

I get 5L from UK eBay for about £20, and I have tested it with strips to ensure it's right. We really don't need to be buying little bottles from markets or grow shops. Where that might cost £100
 
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