smoketrichs
Member
any news on developments of a 150w HPS retrofit CMH?
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G
Guest
Is this going to burn my house down?
The entire thing is going to be placed inside a bread tin (and another on top) will that be safe to touch?
the red wires are connected to the black 14g wire
the white x2 and com all connect
the wire I bought is a solid peice of copper not a bunch of threads (this will go to the lamp) Is that a problem?
Thanks for the info I dont want to plug this guy in untill I get a tumbs up on it!
(this is the adv tech ballast)
The entire thing is going to be placed inside a bread tin (and another on top) will that be safe to touch?
the red wires are connected to the black 14g wire
the white x2 and com all connect
the wire I bought is a solid peice of copper not a bunch of threads (this will go to the lamp) Is that a problem?
Thanks for the info I dont want to plug this guy in untill I get a tumbs up on it!
(this is the adv tech ballast)
simba
Sleeping Dragon
charles, your wired up 100% correct.. just get some wire nuts on that boy and fire it up..
make sure you wrap a ground wire around the capacitor..and the other end in that Green wire nut.
the lid to the bread pan prob not cool to the touch but ok...
ya ya bought solid copper not stranded thats fine..
ya thats the oil filled cap version.. i think they sent a few out..
there standard version is Dry cap..
i just noticed in the pic you have the wires already wrapped around each other.. when u put the connectors on make sure those Actual strands are straight (if not the connectors dont grip as well. IMPHO)
make sure you wrap a ground wire around the capacitor..and the other end in that Green wire nut.
the lid to the bread pan prob not cool to the touch but ok...
ya ya bought solid copper not stranded thats fine..
ya thats the oil filled cap version.. i think they sent a few out..
there standard version is Dry cap..
i just noticed in the pic you have the wires already wrapped around each other.. when u put the connectors on make sure those Actual strands are straight (if not the connectors dont grip as well. IMPHO)
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G
Guest
is the capaciter that big black thing b/c I already got a ground wire screwed to it (though hard to see)
and are you saying I should unwrap all the wires for the wire nut? If so thanks for letting me know but damn I just spent all this time w/ the pliers to get that solid copper crap to cooperate! Oh well
hopefully I'll be blinded by the light tommorow when I fire it up.
Thanks for the help.
and are you saying I should unwrap all the wires for the wire nut? If so thanks for letting me know but damn I just spent all this time w/ the pliers to get that solid copper crap to cooperate! Oh well
hopefully I'll be blinded by the light tommorow when I fire it up.Thanks for the help.
simba
Sleeping Dragon
the capacitor is the silver oval thing.just wrap a coper wire around that good and tight or use some strapping... (normaly its a dry cap that doesn't need grounding)
that black thing is the igntitor/starter doesn't need grounding
Yups unfort unwrap them all.the wire nut will pull the wire in to the top and use Uber Friction with the threads to hold the wires together..
I would wrap up or hot glue the top of the capacitor to insulate the connectors *(if that hits the side of the tin All hell its over.. (hot glue or RTV silicone is great or globs of Epoxy.... )adv tech will still warranty the ballast as long as u only goop the connectors..(on capacitor only)
that black thing is the igntitor/starter doesn't need grounding
Yups unfort unwrap them all.the wire nut will pull the wire in to the top and use Uber Friction with the threads to hold the wires together..
I would wrap up or hot glue the top of the capacitor to insulate the connectors *(if that hits the side of the tin All hell its over.. (hot glue or RTV silicone is great or globs of Epoxy.... )adv tech will still warranty the ballast as long as u only goop the connectors..(on capacitor only)
G
Guest
Thanks again Simba, Ill just rip that extra ground out of the lamp Cord and attach it to my capacitor. Any glue will work on the capacitor connector? My current action plan is Elmers wood glue and electrical tape. I also have some rubber scraps should I just wrap that all around it and then elec tape those on?
-just re read, so im assuming wood glu is out but ill go pick up some hot glue. hot glue is non conductive but I should avoid having it like spill and touch each other right?
-just re read, so im assuming wood glu is out but ill go pick up some hot glue. hot glue is non conductive but I should avoid having it like spill and touch each other right?
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G
Guest
cool beans, thanks simba. I got old tire innertubes from my bike that Ill just pack em in with and tape them up good. Jam them in a box (make heat vents) and it all sounds good, hurray!
BonsaiBud
Member
Hey Simba, does the Retrowhite (250,400) fit well in the new Supersuns? That is about the only reflector to fit my grow cabs. I need to air-cool. I would run them bare bulb if it were not for the heat. I may get away with a 250 and a batwing in my larger box. Any more and I need air cooling.
I will say firstly, that i think the CMH bulb is the best veg bulb hands down, but I think there would be better buds, and less leaf material if an hps was used in flower in place of the CMH. I would use the CMH through veg, the first two weeks of flower, switch to hps, then switch back to CMH the last two weeks.
I used the CMH all the way through flower and it works fine but there is a lotta leaf in the bud but I noticed it more in my bagseed plants than i did my grape ape so it could be strain dependant. But it should definatly be used even over MH for veg.
Thats just my noob opinion after using it all the way through only once.
I think under ideal circumstances I would use all the way through , 2 400w hps and 1 cmh in the middle... would be the perfect balance.
I used the CMH all the way through flower and it works fine but there is a lotta leaf in the bud but I noticed it more in my bagseed plants than i did my grape ape so it could be strain dependant. But it should definatly be used even over MH for veg.
Thats just my noob opinion after using it all the way through only once.
I think under ideal circumstances I would use all the way through , 2 400w hps and 1 cmh in the middle... would be the perfect balance.
U
UBER21
NorCalFor20 said:
Damn wish someone would do a side by side grow comparison with a cmh and hps for just flowering...using same strain,watts,nutes...etc....its a great light but im skeptic a bit now also.......as im running in coco using a 150 cmh good nutes, proper temps..im bit concerned with bud size so far.....resin is really starting to develop though im guessing from the extra uvb these lights throw out......guess we shall she if its strain dependant as bubba kush isnt a big yielder to begin with....
jawnroot
Member
I'm very interested in the CMH lamps. I've been going back and fourth between whether I want CMH or HPS, and I think I'm going to make a move on CMH. I'm just wondering about wattage. I'm torn between 150 watts and 250...
Whichever one I get, I plan to have it vertically in a relatively small space. I'm going to be running a 160 CFM in-line for overall ventilation (not some crappy PC fan, but an in-line that actually moves 160 true CFM of air). In addition to the inline, I plan to have a small axial fan (maybe 60 cfm or so), blowing directly up at the bulb. I won't be using glass, just hanging the bare bulb in the enclosure.
The closest the plants will get is 3 inches at the extreme (probably never that close, but better to plan safe than sorry). Which one of these two wattages should I be considering?
Whichever one I get, I plan to have it vertically in a relatively small space. I'm going to be running a 160 CFM in-line for overall ventilation (not some crappy PC fan, but an in-line that actually moves 160 true CFM of air). In addition to the inline, I plan to have a small axial fan (maybe 60 cfm or so), blowing directly up at the bulb. I won't be using glass, just hanging the bare bulb in the enclosure.
The closest the plants will get is 3 inches at the extreme (probably never that close, but better to plan safe than sorry). Which one of these two wattages should I be considering?
The 250 ballast will run both CMH and HPS. Not so the 150, though it may be compatible with MH.
BonsaiBud
Member
The 250 watt bulb is an "S50" type or ED 18 size, I think. It is huge and has wire wrapped around the ceramic arc tube for extra safety so that you can run it bare bulb. The 150 is a medium base light bulb. You will need to get the protected type and that just blocks a little bit more light. If you have a little bit of vertical space to work with; we all know heat likes to just float up.
One guy did have a 400CMH beside a 400 HPS. It was funny how the plants under yellow light stretched about 2 feet extra with 4 weeks left to go.
One guy did have a 400CMH beside a 400 HPS. It was funny how the plants under yellow light stretched about 2 feet extra with 4 weeks left to go.
U
UBER21
BonsaiBud said:
MUst of missed that one......cmh deff gives u less stretch and tighter nodes.....im just concerned on the overall bud development.....yield wise......?
Simba will this work with a 70 watt cmh?
http://www.e-conolight.com/Product/EProductDetail.asp?ProductFamilyID=3&FGNumber=E-HC1H071Z
Can you send link to the light I should get. Thank you
Id like to use my computer grow box as a mother clone chamber
http://www.e-conolight.com/Product/EProductDetail.asp?ProductFamilyID=3&FGNumber=E-HC1H071Z
Can you send link to the light I should get. Thank you
Id like to use my computer grow box as a mother clone chamber
jawnroot
Member
simba said:
Simba:
My grow area will be 26" wide x 26" deep x 30" high (approximately, I can probably increase the width and depth if I feel it necessary). In addition, the room in which the box is located has A/C, and I can get ambient temps down to about 60*F. That, coupled with the 160 CFM inline, and the 60 cfm axial blowing right on the lamp, should take care of the heat issues, yeah?
