casualtoker
Member
Just thought I'd pop in and say that I ordered a CMH from advancedtechlighting recommended here and it arrived just two days later! Can't wait to replace my HPS tonight and see how it works out.
-
As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.
MPL
Member
I am a lot of things but smarmy isn't one of them. I didn't smile either.
Smartass, however, is something that I can be. I hate that you seem to have taken offense to my post, but I'm not apologizing for thin skin.
So, instead of apologizing I'll give you a better response. The thread is, for better or worse, rather convoluted and difficult to find anything in.
I'm personally using a HTG ballast kit from HTG and could not be happier with it. I'm using 14awg wire to it from the outlet and 14awg wire from the ballast to the lamp. The lead is about 4'. The ballast isn't loud, isn't terribly hot and has been completely reliable. advancetech has some ballasts as well, and I think they are guaranteed US made. I think any reputable supplier of ballasts or ballast parts/kits would work just fine. The technology is so old it's hard to find magnetic ballasts that truly suck.
Any hood that will fit a 400w HPS bulb will fit a 400w CMH too. No worries.
I bought my 400w CMH from advtech and am very, very pleased with the service and support. I think there are one or two other places you can buy them, but I haven't looked.
Magnetic vs electric? Well, magnetic ballasts are run off of electricity... I'm sure you know that. Do you mean the difference between magnetic and digital/electronic core? If so, then a magnetic ballast is what you need for a 250w or 400w CMH, not a digital. Also, ANY ballast that matches those ANSI codes would be precisely what you need. So if you have a brand preference, simply look up which ballast produced by them matches the ANSI code for your lamp and voila, it's done!
Yep, you are correct in assuming that any magnetic ballast will work. Indeed, for the 250w and 400w lamps, that is the only kind of ballast that will work outside of specialty digital ballasts.
Smartass, however, is something that I can be. I hate that you seem to have taken offense to my post, but I'm not apologizing for thin skin.
So, instead of apologizing I'll give you a better response. The thread is, for better or worse, rather convoluted and difficult to find anything in.
I'm personally using a HTG ballast kit from HTG and could not be happier with it. I'm using 14awg wire to it from the outlet and 14awg wire from the ballast to the lamp. The lead is about 4'. The ballast isn't loud, isn't terribly hot and has been completely reliable. advancetech has some ballasts as well, and I think they are guaranteed US made. I think any reputable supplier of ballasts or ballast parts/kits would work just fine. The technology is so old it's hard to find magnetic ballasts that truly suck.
Any hood that will fit a 400w HPS bulb will fit a 400w CMH too. No worries.
I bought my 400w CMH from advtech and am very, very pleased with the service and support. I think there are one or two other places you can buy them, but I haven't looked.
Magnetic vs electric? Well, magnetic ballasts are run off of electricity... I'm sure you know that. Do you mean the difference between magnetic and digital/electronic core? If so, then a magnetic ballast is what you need for a 250w or 400w CMH, not a digital. Also, ANY ballast that matches those ANSI codes would be precisely what you need. So if you have a brand preference, simply look up which ballast produced by them matches the ANSI code for your lamp and voila, it's done!
Yep, you are correct in assuming that any magnetic ballast will work. Indeed, for the 250w and 400w lamps, that is the only kind of ballast that will work outside of specialty digital ballasts.
gnarly said:
Last edited:
MPL
Member
Man that sucks. Generally when this happens, if I am not mistaken, it is usually because of the ballast and not the lamp. This isn't always true, however, so it would be wise to check both.
What I believe may be happening is that the core or capacitor in your ballast somehow went bad, lowering the amount of power supplied to the lamp. Try switching the bulbs between the ballast and seeing what happens. Be sure to allow 20-30 minutes for them to cool down before you try to reignite the lamps!
What I believe may be happening is that the core or capacitor in your ballast somehow went bad, lowering the amount of power supplied to the lamp. Try switching the bulbs between the ballast and seeing what happens. Be sure to allow 20-30 minutes for them to cool down before you try to reignite the lamps!
JohnnyToke said:
jdubz206
Member
simba said:
I flowered twice under CMH using a few different strains. IMO, the strains were much leafier than when flowered under HPS. I am very, very happy with the CMH for veg. For the price of the bulb itself and if you already have a 400w HPS ballast, there's really no better suggestion that to use the CMH for veg. You get lush growth and tight nodes. For flowering, I've upgraded to 600 watt HPS lights and can't (won't ever) complain. For anyone thinking about whether to buy a 400 or 600 for flowering. GO WITH THE 600 HPS!!!
blueberryfarmer
Member
What are other people's opinions on the CMH in flower?
Keeps the plant tight. Fat stems, thick, healthy leaves. Plant's don't stretch too much. I like to put em under the hps for first 2-3 wks, then under the cmh. ----> Easy to take pics with the lights on. <----- worth more than I thought, now I have ANOTHER canna hobby.....
EDIT - They run a lil cooler, so I can keep plants closer. I think that the added intensity helps a bunch w/400's
EDIT - They run a lil cooler, so I can keep plants closer. I think that the added intensity helps a bunch w/400's
Last edited:
simba
Sleeping Dragon
os, glad to see your still trolling.. (you prove over and over again your a JOKE)
(if i was someone else and i had a complaint i would not want you on my side you bring no credibility and in reality you bring negative credibility.)
eye horti even said the cmh is better than there blue..
and that argument has been debunked over and over again..its commone sense compare spd. compare output and its over then compare life and its even more over then compare cost and if your still out to buy blue, then u flat out crazy.
do tell me how its "not as good as blue"? id love to hear your argument..
ask them if they have any thing comparable to the cmh we reference..
you come in every time with outright BS>. and you always get pwned and Hide until someone says there opinion.. and u start all over again..
30 years of growing nugs under hps is only cause cmh wasn't avail..
and not readily avail until 2002-2005 (to horti)
Jdubz, how long where u vegging for, that maybe why you are having more foiler growth than wanted.. (Remember SHORTEN Veg time compared to HPS like SHORT)
a 600 requires Room and Airflow.. don't blanket recommend it over 400 to people, 400s even in hps are plenty big for most people.. IMPO (even then id rather have 2 400s)
im so not trying to start noting with ya.. but u say ya just upgraded to 600 and your already Super recommending it.do try cmh again...shorting veg...
in total i think we had at most across all forums i could find only 8 different people with issues with cmh.. To much foiler was what i kept hearing..(to much veg time IMPHO)
out of the total lamps out there in Green Horti thats only 1% of all who have switched (ya some guesstimate at work in total lamps vs the 8, at worsted case math its .05%)
Blue, only reason i switched and recommend it over hps is cause it is better.. (i cant say it enough hps are So Profitable to all involved and CMH is ONLY profitable to the Manufacture of the bulb.. not the distributor or sales shop (unless they charging u $75+ for it)
just go with shorter veg time.. and youll apreciate the Qaulity end result
(remember indicas will be bushier, thats why its indica Short and bushy"
(if i was someone else and i had a complaint i would not want you on my side you bring no credibility and in reality you bring negative credibility.)
eye horti even said the cmh is better than there blue..
and that argument has been debunked over and over again..its commone sense compare spd. compare output and its over then compare life and its even more over then compare cost and if your still out to buy blue, then u flat out crazy.
do tell me how its "not as good as blue"? id love to hear your argument..
ask them if they have any thing comparable to the cmh we reference..
you come in every time with outright BS>. and you always get pwned and Hide until someone says there opinion.. and u start all over again..
30 years of growing nugs under hps is only cause cmh wasn't avail..
and not readily avail until 2002-2005 (to horti)
Jdubz, how long where u vegging for, that maybe why you are having more foiler growth than wanted.. (Remember SHORTEN Veg time compared to HPS like SHORT)
a 600 requires Room and Airflow.. don't blanket recommend it over 400 to people, 400s even in hps are plenty big for most people.. IMPO (even then id rather have 2 400s)
im so not trying to start noting with ya.. but u say ya just upgraded to 600 and your already Super recommending it.do try cmh again...shorting veg...
in total i think we had at most across all forums i could find only 8 different people with issues with cmh.. To much foiler was what i kept hearing..(to much veg time IMPHO)
out of the total lamps out there in Green Horti thats only 1% of all who have switched (ya some guesstimate at work in total lamps vs the 8, at worsted case math its .05%)
Blue, only reason i switched and recommend it over hps is cause it is better.. (i cant say it enough hps are So Profitable to all involved and CMH is ONLY profitable to the Manufacture of the bulb.. not the distributor or sales shop (unless they charging u $75+ for it)
just go with shorter veg time.. and youll apreciate the Qaulity end result
(remember indicas will be bushier, thats why its indica Short and bushy"
U
UBER21
simba said:
guys listen to simba he knows his shit..........I must also give praise to the guys over at advancedlighting excellent service and great prices.......I have a 150w cmh and I can't believe how close I can have the bulb to the plants literally inches away producing tight nodes and maximiizing light absorption....at full spectrum....my bubba haze clone is really loving her new light at 2 weeks flowering the buds are developing really fast..she was only given 2 days of 24.7 under the cmh.....due to space in the cabby had to flower her fast....also have a sour bubble and toxic lemon from seed that ended up a female,which was also thrown under the cmh and just starting showing pistils....nutes are.....
grotek silica...
pureblend pro bloom
pureblend original grow used a few days for vegging
fox farms big bloom
techna floras sugar daddy
grotek monster bloom once a week...
medium is sunshine coco.....
simba thanks for recommending using the silica it works well......pics to come
U
UBER21
here goes some pics from crappy cam...lol...guess uploading pics is still down
Last edited:
jdubz206
Member
simba said:
i'm not trying to start an argument here or anything, in fact I said that I really like CMH for vegging and will continue vegging under CMH unless I find something that is more efficient and better.
I didn't just switch to HPS. I've been using HPS since my 2nd run with CMH. I had 2 rooms and was using the CMH for veg\flower in one. I've been running HPS for 6-8 months now, not sure exactly. I'm just saying what worked for me. I've seen people post in this thread with amazing results from CMH but for me HPS takes the cake. You are correct, you do need more ventilation and a 600 watt isn't for everyone with cramped space. I had no problem running a 400 and 600 watt HPS in a 4x4 with two crappy 8" duct booster fans from Home Depot. My temps in my basement range from 50-80 degrees depending on the season. It rarely gets higher than 75 though. My room would stay between 68-78 degrees year round. A few nights in the winter it dipped low and I put a small radiator in the room.
I veg for different times depending on the strain... I basically try to go for a certain size..certain strains may take longer to get there. I root my clones under fluoro's (1-2 weeks) and then they go under the CMH for 4-8 weeks (maybe longer with training, topping, etc - again the strain)...it just depends.
simba..I appreciate all your help on this thread and with other questions I've asked in the past. I'm just saying this is my experience. everyone's growing style is a bit different...what works great for me doesn't work great for others and vice versa. take care and stay safe.
OsWiZzLe
Active member
simba said:
Listen Simba....I'm on some old school Tony the Tiger shit....but.....I've used ur bulbs and the Horti Blue and that Aqualine Bulb that emits madddd UV.....they all suck......The horti is bomb for Veg thats it....the CMH is better for flowering then the Hort...but not as good at vegging....
here's the 800 watt dual ballast i used to run my 800 wayy CMH grow....i had 2 of these ballast and also ran the Horti in the same set up same clones....
CMH is wayyyyyyyyyyyyy over hyped.......The Horti outproduced it for me twice now....its not only better...its GREATTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT!
simba
Sleeping Dragon
dood u blew ur self out the water.. u said cmh produces to much leaf.. yet it has a lower blue to red ratio than horti blue so infact the horti blue will produce more leaf from your comments.. ur bunked again..
.also just side noted..
horti blue has less initial output (allot less)
higher blue to red ratio (wich from ur statements will create more leaf)
low lumen maintenances Meaning right after you turn it on the first time the outputted power goes down fast.. 65% i belive vs CMH at 85% so ur bunked there if u say it out yields especially twice thats about 2000 hours (a big drop on horti blue side and only a lil loss on cmh side) but ur horti blue is outperforming yet its outputting even less power as time goes by..
dood final thought..
jdubz (not harpin on ya,,, just reference to OS) was veging like 6-8 weeks if not more.. for cmh that will produce a BUSH>
i say over and over 1 week MAX>> (unless u have learned that first, then go longer to experiment to get it dialed in.. (its well worth it, its the same if u did soiless/Hydro under Outdoor sun it takes a bit of relearning from that hps indoors..)
take ur clones at about 6" tall not these 3" lil things..
if u start with a small cutting its gonna need more time.. if its about 6-6" cutting you will only need the 4-7 rooting time plus 1 week max veg (untill u get that down)
start small go big.. never try to go big and think its going to work first time with any new product..
.also just side noted..
horti blue has less initial output (allot less)
higher blue to red ratio (wich from ur statements will create more leaf)
low lumen maintenances Meaning right after you turn it on the first time the outputted power goes down fast.. 65% i belive vs CMH at 85% so ur bunked there if u say it out yields especially twice thats about 2000 hours (a big drop on horti blue side and only a lil loss on cmh side) but ur horti blue is outperforming yet its outputting even less power as time goes by..
dood final thought..
jdubz (not harpin on ya,,, just reference to OS) was veging like 6-8 weeks if not more.. for cmh that will produce a BUSH>
i say over and over 1 week MAX>> (unless u have learned that first, then go longer to experiment to get it dialed in.. (its well worth it, its the same if u did soiless/Hydro under Outdoor sun it takes a bit of relearning from that hps indoors..)
take ur clones at about 6" tall not these 3" lil things..
if u start with a small cutting its gonna need more time.. if its about 6-6" cutting you will only need the 4-7 rooting time plus 1 week max veg (untill u get that down)
start small go big.. never try to go big and think its going to work first time with any new product..
Last edited:
MPL
Member
Funny, I know Ph.Ds that have taught PAR "bullshit" in their classes.
I don't think CMH is the end all be all, but I also think you're an ignoramus if you can't accept something that anyone with half an education (doesn't even have to be in any of the sciences) has been taught and understands. Even in some of my lower level (<250) physics classes we covered PAR and its importance.
Don't forget that light is made up of particles, and that influences everything.
The burden of proof is on you at this point.
I don't think CMH is the end all be all, but I also think you're an ignoramus if you can't accept something that anyone with half an education (doesn't even have to be in any of the sciences) has been taught and understands. Even in some of my lower level (<250) physics classes we covered PAR and its importance.
Don't forget that light is made up of particles, and that influences everything.
The burden of proof is on you at this point.
OsWiZzLe said:
Pharma Geddon
Member
Post #1811.
Is that a digital ballast?
Is that a digital ballast?
simba
Sleeping Dragon
Great article MPL>.
i like this part, but never really brought it up..
Im more on it for the lack of full spd not the uv potency..
i think under hps it screws with it..
(Not tryin to upset any breeders)_
"Some "oldtimers" of the cannabis community have theorized that the use of high pressure sodium (HPS) light as a sole source of lighting has resulted in unconscious selection for lower THC parents during breeding.7 This theory is based on the assumption that ultraviolet light is a large causal factor in the plants production of THC. As HPS lights produce little in the way of UV, the lower potency plants could look the most vigorous in early selections (before flowering) as they would have a genetic advantage over high THC plants (less wasted energy).
A common way of conducting a breeding program where space is limited is to start large seed lots and then select the best individuals for flowering. Vic High and others have done some preliminary research into creating high UV environments by adding tanning or medical UV lights to their regular lighting for early seedling selections.8 As most Dutch breeding is done behind closed doors it is unknown whether this is used by any breeders in Holland."
Im not sure where i sit on the Mad UV at Seedling.. (there is a point of excess id say no more uv than at highest point in Green Zone..
Maybe if your trying to bread some Beast like "destroyer" but that may take a few Generations..
i like this part, but never really brought it up..
Im more on it for the lack of full spd not the uv potency..
i think under hps it screws with it..
(Not tryin to upset any breeders)_
"Some "oldtimers" of the cannabis community have theorized that the use of high pressure sodium (HPS) light as a sole source of lighting has resulted in unconscious selection for lower THC parents during breeding.7 This theory is based on the assumption that ultraviolet light is a large causal factor in the plants production of THC. As HPS lights produce little in the way of UV, the lower potency plants could look the most vigorous in early selections (before flowering) as they would have a genetic advantage over high THC plants (less wasted energy).
A common way of conducting a breeding program where space is limited is to start large seed lots and then select the best individuals for flowering. Vic High and others have done some preliminary research into creating high UV environments by adding tanning or medical UV lights to their regular lighting for early seedling selections.8 As most Dutch breeding is done behind closed doors it is unknown whether this is used by any breeders in Holland."
Im not sure where i sit on the Mad UV at Seedling.. (there is a point of excess id say no more uv than at highest point in Green Zone..
Maybe if your trying to bread some Beast like "destroyer" but that may take a few Generations..
Last edited:
yeah, it has been discussed before. Uvb is more useful to breeder rater than to growers.
I think most of selection made in the last years hasn't been made in the best possible way... it's really a pity...
I think most of selection made in the last years hasn't been made in the best possible way... it's really a pity...
