The Philips ballast is relatively low frequency (110-150hz), but the GEL is described as being high frequency and supposedly that is the reason for it's greater light output and longevity.
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The Philips ballast is relatively low frequency (110-150hz), but the GEL is described as being high frequency and supposedly that is the reason for it's greater light output and longevity.
GreenThumb14
Member
I thought high freq. resonance blew the bulbs up?
That was supposed to be the case with the CMH retrofit lamps, and why they couldn't be run on electronic ballasts. Apparently there is a difference in the 315w CDM lamp construction, because all of the ballasts that I've seen so far that are compatible with that lamp are electronic. I haven't been able to find what frequency the GEL ballast actually puts out, but all of the descriptions say "high frequency". I think Azeo posted something about his discussion with GEL a few pages back that goes into why their control method is easier on the lamp.
pHive.8
Vendor
the global ballast operates between 110.000 hz and 130.000 hz depending on the dimming state.
controlling the resonance at high frequencies is indeed the key to a succesfull EL ballast.
A really needed advice, for a true DIY Project(or) ...
A really needed advice, for a true DIY Project(or) ...
Respected members,
I am a 'totally' newcomer here.
I have found these pages, during my search for the proper light source, for my DIY a Projector (for my home cinema).
Really!
This is not a joke ...
You have such a nice, full and detailed experience doing your own projects, I am amazed.
Besides my admiration, I am interested in a very specific 'Ceramic Metal Halide' "construction", of exactly 400W, (CMH bulb-6500K + dig,ballast ... )!
So far, I found : [ http://www.htgsupply.com/Product-HTGSupply-400-Watt-Ceramic-Metal-Halide-Grow-Light.asp ], but they do not deliver outside USA ...
Since I need more then 'more' lumens (above: 35-40000, with no upper lumen limit!), and with a single bulb(!), that has its white color of 6500K (preferably, but must have at least 4000K(!)) and a minimum of 90CRI (or more), with a maximum of 400W at 220V/50Hz(Europe) power, ... , that was the nearest I found.
In vain, of course, as I said ...
I heard so many things concerning CMH lamps and ballast correlation, (not only on last 300 and more pages), that I somehow lost myself ...
On the other hand, I heard so many (other) contradictory information, that, just for a sake of choosing from BEST COMPONENTS, please, help me out, what would be the best 'combination'?!? And please remember: I am not working with a living but nonliving materials (electronics, like LCD's, or lenses, ...)
For example, I have heard that the Phantom dig.ballasts, from Hydro-farm are the most reliable on the market, as are the GE bulbs, ...
Considering the given specifications, please help me choose the best possible configuration from the 'given'.
For all of you that cares, thank you in advance, very much
Kind Regards for all the people of good will!
A really needed advice, for a true DIY Project(or) ...
Respected members,
I am a 'totally' newcomer here.
I have found these pages, during my search for the proper light source, for my DIY a Projector (for my home cinema).
Really!
This is not a joke ...
You have such a nice, full and detailed experience doing your own projects, I am amazed.
Besides my admiration, I am interested in a very specific 'Ceramic Metal Halide' "construction", of exactly 400W, (CMH bulb-6500K + dig,ballast ... )!
So far, I found : [ http://www.htgsupply.com/Product-HTGSupply-400-Watt-Ceramic-Metal-Halide-Grow-Light.asp ], but they do not deliver outside USA ...
Since I need more then 'more' lumens (above: 35-40000, with no upper lumen limit!), and with a single bulb(!), that has its white color of 6500K (preferably, but must have at least 4000K(!)) and a minimum of 90CRI (or more), with a maximum of 400W at 220V/50Hz(Europe) power, ... , that was the nearest I found.
In vain, of course, as I said ...
I heard so many things concerning CMH lamps and ballast correlation, (not only on last 300 and more pages), that I somehow lost myself ...
On the other hand, I heard so many (other) contradictory information, that, just for a sake of choosing from BEST COMPONENTS, please, help me out, what would be the best 'combination'?!? And please remember: I am not working with a living but nonliving materials (electronics, like LCD's, or lenses, ...)
For example, I have heard that the Phantom dig.ballasts, from Hydro-farm are the most reliable on the market, as are the GE bulbs, ...
Considering the given specifications, please help me choose the best possible configuration from the 'given'.
For all of you that cares, thank you in advance, very much
Kind Regards for all the people of good will!
I don't have any idea what might be best for a projector bulb, but maybe one of the 315w philips bulbs might be worth looking at:
http://www.ecat.lighting.philips.co...olor-cdm-t-elite-med-wattage/928601164802_na/
This one has 35k lumens (initial) and a 4200k color temp.
You can't just use a regular digital ballast however - there are electronic ballasts specifically for these bulbs. The 'older' generation
CMH bulbs (250w and 400w) run on a magnetic hps ballast.
Might be worth a try - if it doesn't work out, you can always grow weed with it...
http://www.ecat.lighting.philips.co...olor-cdm-t-elite-med-wattage/928601164802_na/
This one has 35k lumens (initial) and a 4200k color temp.
You can't just use a regular digital ballast however - there are electronic ballasts specifically for these bulbs. The 'older' generation
CMH bulbs (250w and 400w) run on a magnetic hps ballast.
Might be worth a try - if it doesn't work out, you can always grow weed with it...
GreenThumb14
Member
Might be worth a try - if it doesn't work out, you can always grow weed with it...
Wait, you guys grow weed?!?!
We just got one of these bulbs in today.
The internal bracing looks identical to a Philips 860w BT37 lamp. Any markings on it?
Philips data sheet -
http://www.ecat.lighting.philips.co...mps-with-allstart-technology/928601174401_na/
Philips data sheet -
http://www.ecat.lighting.philips.co...mps-with-allstart-technology/928601174401_na/
Those number/letters are a pretty conventional arrangement for marking the manufacturing date code. I don't know about the "R" to the left of the other letters, but they stand for (J)anuary, (F)ebruary, (M)arch, (A)pril, (M)ay, etc. Same for the 0123456789.
yea thats what I thought. Ill keep ya updated when I here more or learn more. The claims from the pres for grams per watt are twice as much as the best growers and even he said I wouldn't believe it. Thats why im on board and will be testing it for myself.
I don't have any idea what might be best for a projector bulb, but maybe one of the 315w philips bulbs might be worth looking at:
http://www.ecat.lighting.philips.co...olor-cdm-t-elite-med-wattage/928601164802_na/
This one has 35k lumens (initial) and a 4200k color temp.
You can't just use a regular digital ballast however - there are electronic ballasts specifically for these bulbs. The 'older' generation
CMH bulbs (250w and 400w) run on a magnetic hps ballast.
Might be worth a try - if it doesn't work out, you can always grow weed with it...
Thank you!!!
Extremely grateful for ALL the advices ...
I almost forget ... If I would like to achieve around 50k lumens (4500-5600K color temp., etc), then, what would be your recommendation?
I do prefer ceramic metal halide configurations, ... , but not exclusively.
Is there more efficient option?
Considering high CRI (around 90 or more), cold (4500-5600K), but bright (50k + lumens) light, and if possible, smaller wattage!
For projectors, noting much else matters, really.
Any good attention, opinion, thought is welcome!
I do prefer ceramic metal halide configurations, ... , but not exclusively.
Is there more efficient option?
Considering high CRI (around 90 or more), cold (4500-5600K), but bright (50k + lumens) light, and if possible, smaller wattage!
For projectors, noting much else matters, really.
Any good attention, opinion, thought is welcome!
I was thinking of purchasing the Philips D-315W CMH fixture and was wondering whether to get the "Daylight" or "Agro" bulb. Has anyone had a chance to compare the two bulbs?
I'm currently using a 400w Retro White that I was going to replace with the 315w one.
I'm currently using a 400w Retro White that I was going to replace with the 315w one.
pHive.8
Vendor
the daylight bulb is 4200 kelvin and puts out 550 µmol PAR
the agro bulb is 2900 - 3000 kelvin and puts out 600 µmol PAR
pHive.8
Vendor
Global ballast is 130 khz
Why, yes as a matter of fact:
http://greenbeamslighting.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/SpectralCharacteristicsofLampTypes.pdf
All kinds of bulb comparison info in there, but they do specifically compare the 942 to the Agro.
Have you looked into quartz halogen? I think that they are normally warmer than that, but I've never really pursued the variants.
*edit* I found this tidbit - "all incandescent and halogen light bulbs, by definition, have a CRI close to 100. They are excellent at rendering color. However, except for some halogen bulbs, most incandescents produce a warm 2800K color temperature. The only way to achieve the bluish white appearance of daylight with incandescent bulbs is to use bulbs coated with neodymium. However, these bulbs have a CRI much lower than 90. They are not good for accurate color rendering across the spectrum."
