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Can't tell if you have root rot or the brown slime algae, come on in ?!

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran

Yup, that thing is nice. I need one for the house. Plants get the single hepa.

Designed for hospital operating rooms, the Sun-Pure Hepa filter removes up to 97% of microscopic particles
and airborne allergens as small as .3 microns.
(The average human hair is 80 microns in size and a bacterium is 1 micron in size.)
Hepa filters, developed by the military are capable of filtering out bacteria, fungal spores, dust mites, pollen,
insect dust, animal dander and tobacco smoke. These microscopic particles are known to be one of the
primary causes of asthma, emphysema, hay fever, chronic bronchitis and allergies. The elderly and children
are especially vulnerable.

The Sun-Pure “Six Step” Air Purification System
• STEP ONE: Cleans the Air of Macro Particles
A treated (5) micron pre-filter removes all particles from the air larger than (5) microns, extending the life
of the Hepa filter and protects the gas absorbing media from dust coating and fouling.
• STEP TWO: Hospital Grade Hepa Filter Removes Allergens
A hospital grade Hepa filters remove allergens so small that they can only be seen with a microscope.
Pollen, mold, fungal spores, dust mites, cockroach dust, tobacco smoke and bacteria are but a few examples.
• STEP THREE: Absorbs Toxic Chemicals and Gases
A specially formulated gas absorption media absorbs automobile exhaust fumes, organic hydrocarbons,
formaldehyde from particle board used in home construction, paint solvents, chlorine, cleaning chemicals
and other fumes until the Photo-Catalytic converter destroys the pollutants.
• STEP FOUR: “Photo-Catalytic Oxidation” Destroys Toxic Chemicals and Eliminates Household Odors
Activated carbon, zeolite and potassium permanganate used by the best air purifiers can rapidly absorb large
quantities of toxic fumes, however this media quickly becomes saturated and slowly release pollutants back into
the air stream. Photo-Catalytic Oxidation converts toxic compounds, even carbon monoxide and nitrous oxide,
into benign constituents such as carbon dioxide and water without wearing out or losing its effectiveness.
• STEP FIVE: Ultraviolet Light Kills Disease Germs on Contact
Ultraviolet light 10,000 times the intensity of sun light kills viruses and bacteria too small to be filtered out
by a Hepa filter. Ultraviolet technology combined with photo-catalytic oxidation is the most important
feature in air purification since germs are easily spread from one person to another by central heating and
air-conditioning systems.
• STEP SIX: Negative Ions Improve Sleep and Keep Air Fresh
Oxygen in the air reacts with ultraviolet light to produce small amounts of negative ions and activated
oxygen. Negative ions and activated oxygen help induce sleep and keep the air clean and fresh.
 

doneit

Active member
Veteran
Ok.. i must have missed that post?

I havent decided 100% if im going to use the antibiotics..

The UV did not work for us.. we had them piped into the feed lines to the manifolds.. the problem wa it did nothing to the pathogen in the medium/container. you would need a rwdc for it to be effective, which we dont.

Most likely a dumb question here..
Can fungicides be used with tea's?
 

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
You can use a fungicide to kill the targeted microbes and then go tea or other preference. Never together. I have seen a lot of other horticulture fungicides on the net for food crops. Down the line daring souls might need to experiment with other products unknown to us at this time.

Yep, you ain't going to get the critters out of the pots. Were those UV lights plumbed to the manifolds prior to the initial rez or added later? I'm assuming you had them there from the start. If so, once you put the infected young veged plants in their pots, the UV was never going to have an effect. The plants roots were already most likely already infected and then separated in individual pots.

If that was the case by chance, the UV could still work and the original tea at keeping the bad microbes away from the roots if the vegged plants were absolutely sterile and rot free. I'm thinking the roots were already infected from the veg room and then into their pots in the bloom room. They were always infected and the tea microbes were out competed by the colony already on the roots.

Where the plants always in perlite from the veg stage to the bloom room?

If the roots were clumped to perlite, there would be little chance to get rid of the critters at that stage. Nothing would help much at that point on. DId you try dunking the vegged plants roots with anything during their transplant and/or move the the blooms room?

During that time what air management were you practicing to keep spores from taking a dive into your rez?

Just throwing it out there so people can see how this can happen.




 

doneit

Active member
Veteran
Well.. I have done dunks at transplant etc... the veg system is exactly the same as the flower system just smaller.
they are alwys in perlite except when rooted, they are in some type of rooter, weither it be jiffy's, soil cups, etc..

I did not realize the pathogen was air born until a year or so ago.. nothing like chasing your tale huh? lol
Once i realized it is about the time i gave up on it.. i new that there was no way to get rid of the spores, i searched for MANY hours.

always used scrubbers and proper air movement/transfer. started using heppa type filtration ( stand alone ) a few yrs ago for mold resistance.
 

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
Ahhhh, I just finished eating and recharged.

Yep, spores galore in the air and hiding everywhere, lol. I was going thru the original slime club thread and seen that I had wrote a bit about spores. I was in there to find something to put in giftedones face. He's still trolling the other thread. He is from that other website with the same handle and avatar and he jocks the dude that sells them tea bags over there. My spidey sense is good, haha. Let me pull those spore posts and post them here. They had some good info.
 

wantaknow

ruger 500
Veteran
one gram of pool shock to a gallon of water ,then a couple ozs to a 55 gal rez ,once a week ,cheap and effective
 

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
one gram of pool shock to a gallon of water ,then a couple ozs to a 55 gal rez ,once a week ,cheap and effective


Shazammm, you are a veteran here, since 2004. Are you an overgrow refugee too. RIP Overgrow.

That is one thing I haven't looked into at all, that pool shock. Is it a chlorine type thing, a derivative, or something like that? Care to share with us what it is and how does it work. Somebody mentioned that somewhere, was you doneit. Did you say you tried it or something.
 

doneit

Active member
Veteran
Ya, it was me NUMEROUS times lol...

The level of pool shock need to kill the pathogen was to much...

Lower amounts worked until mid flower.. when the root development slowed the disease took over.
Also developed salt toxicity that seriously affected the outcome..

shock is good treatment for mild pathogens in low dosage... not this shit i have.

The Zone worked better... not the old blue zone, the newer stuff that been around a yr or so
 

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
hey doneit,

get a kick out these old posts. damn it takes me back. this crap was in Sept. 07. I was going nuts, LOL. That's what that ^%^$*#$* slime will do to you . I think I'm recovered now. It's not painful to read and I can laugh at myself.

Anyway there is some good info in there. I was constantly spouting out info. Doneit, if DTW in perlite ever has to be an option, it can be successfully done. But, I sure as hell didn't stay with it even though I was finally cropping and not crapping. This is stuff I was saying back in mid 2007. I lot of things evolved since then though regarding some of the info and remedies.



09-04-2007, 03:12 AM #89
richyrich

Wow, I forgot all about this thread. Glad you all benefited by learning that this slime crap was actually brown algae. I feel you jarff. I went hell bent to figure out what this stuff was. I tried everything, really everything. Physan20 is better than bleach for cleaning. Zone is the best for running sterile. Root Excelurator is best for running beneficials. Hygrozyme does seem to help get the slime going. Running water at 65F and below will not stop the slime. Use 1ml per 10 gallons of Physan20 in a hydro system with plants.

After figuring it out and using everything available, would you believe I got it again. The **** will make you go crazy. I said **** it and had to do away with the re-circulating system. Feed to waste and you will have no problems. You don't need a chiller, no more PPM adjustments and no more chasing the pH.

The **** is like herpes for hydro. It just pops up when it wants to.

09-04-2007, 08:18 PM #91
richyrich

Everything is good since going feed to waste. I use just about the same amount of nutes I did in the recirculating res. each week.

I hand water every 2nd or 3rd day, its a breeze. Beats going in the grow and checking twice a day because of all the problems for the last couple of years. When I get to it, I will make a drip to waste. Then I can really kick back and go in once a week like it should of been. Just like you said, I have so many parts and equipment, I could just do it now. I have so much stuff it's unbelievable because if this crap.

I highly recommend the feed to waste. All you will need are base nutes and beneficials. No more H202, Zone, SM-90, Hydroguard and enzymes. You can go back to all of your additives too and not have to worry about them sparking off any algae or actual bad bacteria root rot since a lot of them just feed these buggers.

Yup, feed to waste is the way. It was the only way I could stop the hydro herpes.

09-09-2007, 04:41 AM #94
richyrich

Yep, I think people here have taken notice of this brown algae. I have seen several posts actually discussing this algae and then leading back to this thread. It surely deserves attention because I couldn't figure it out until, well, you have all seen what I posted in this thread. I know it will help a lot of people.

09-09-2007, 04:57 AM #95
richyrich

BROWN ALGAE

THE HERPES OF HYDRO

The brown funk in person collecting on my ph probe. You know its about to explode when you notice your ph keeps on drifting upward when its normally rock solid.

 

doneit

Active member
Veteran
Im going to read this in the morning..

But i want to let you know now.
I have done the dtw 1000's of time with perlite... matter of fact my buddt has a few going now that were extras... hand fed dtw everyday... they are in much worse shape than the ones in the system.

Thank for the info bro!
 

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
Pool shock is chlorine by the way

I see, I got a lucky guess. That makes sense about the zone working somewhat better. Zone is a chloramine, a derivative of chlorine or some thing like that. It's been many years for me since that stuff. Since your microbe mutant is chlorine resistant and chloramine being one step tougher than chlorine (bleach), I reckon that is why it was just a little better than bleach, and still failed.
 

doneit

Active member
Veteran
Ok, i read it...

That will never work for me, 2-3 days between feed and they are dead! lol
 

doneit

Active member
Veteran
I see, I got a lucky guess. That makes sense about the zone working somewhat better. Zone is a chloramine, a derivative of chlorine or some thing like that. It's been many years for me since that stuff. Since your microbe mutant is chlorine resistant and chloramine being one step tougher than chlorine (bleach), I reckon that is why it was just a little better than bleach, and still failed.
No, actually its not... the old blue stuff was, but the new stuff is totally different.

The old stuff sucked for me, the newer stuff is the only product to allow my buddy to finish a hrvest... 70% of it anyways
 

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
Good sleeping sir. I'll have a lot posted tonight for you to read tomorrow. I reckon the DTW didn't work because the plants probably came out of the veg room already with roots infected. This room where we are running this plan MUST have no old plants at all in it. Once everything is sanitized and all controls are in place only new cuts will be brought in after a sterilization of them and they will be rooted in the mother or veg room.

No plant will dare come in there with roots already attached. That is just asking to bring the rot spores right back in. When bleach water, zone, sm90, h2o2, etc., and especially physan20 do not kill the critters, there is no way we can get them off any clone or plant with a root bath. They must be banned. Every plant that ends up in that room will come in only as a cut or seed. From those cuts, you make new mothers, etc.. Failure to follow this to the T and it will be game over guaranteed !!!
 
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richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
Ignore the feeding schedule in those old posts. I was running coco then. Heck ya perlite dries out fast. I was pointing out DTW. Just so you have an option in the back of your head. Instead of recirculating you just set up the system to drain. With coco and rw, you end up using about the same amount of nute water each week running dtw or recirc. With perlites demands, you would have to fine tune the feedings to give them just the right amount each time so not to blow thru gangs of nutes and water each week. Like I said, I will be tossing all kinds of things out. Burn any new ideas in the back of your brain for possible later use.

Shows how long its been since I used zone. I had no clue they have another. I still have bottles of the old stuff...
 

doneit

Active member
Veteran
well...
Hand fed 2 plants in my buds system with 1.5ppm pool shocked water with 1ml ridomil per gallon, flushed real well...
this was tuesday.
roots growing outta the bottom today... nice and white...
these plants were 32ish days in with dead roots out the bottom.

could be on to something?... time will tell however havent seen tis happen yet!
 

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
I think you might be. I read up on that Ridomil. It takes care of a lot of root issues including pythium. I've been reading tons. I'm still here though. I'll get at you tomorrow. Lots of stuff to share.
 

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