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~Cannafornia Style~◆Area51~Kiddie Pool PPK◆VERT~Evolution~

DamnUglyDogE

DamnUglyDogE

Learning the rules well,so as to break them effect
ICMag Donor
Veteran
GS Cookies
&
Alien O.G.
Treated with GA3
for 10 days at 500-550 PPMs



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Purple turtle

Purple turtle

Member
smOKing a fatty ,catchn up on missed reading!!n checkin in for my daily wake n bake!

always something new goin on<nice A DAWG ,like where you going with the pools....:biggrin:

respect!!
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DamnUglyDogE

DamnUglyDogE

Learning the rules well,so as to break them effect
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The more I play with my 3lb tree grow idea the more I realize that my approach is off.

Perhaps a smoke cloud born dream(of which I have many)
Yet I believe the foundation for season 3 has been laid in that.

With a slight shift in mind set and focus I will be striving for using
the kiddie pools for a maximum growth per wave and just see what happens.

Which means I will need to focus on strain selection and training/striping/cleaning skills as well as quite a few others over the next few months. Which I believe I am up to and we shall see soon enough.

I've got the build locked in and I think is an improvement and may be a long term set up due to the fact that there are so many ways I could grow with this same set up.

So season 3 in :

2 pools with Long veg using the 3 x vert 600s.

Exhaust moved into the closet and out of the tent opening the ceiling for growth.

Taking out the bottom totes and using the pool inside a pool idea.
Which will drop the height of the pools(more space)...

Ignore the pot and bamboo (think empty pools)









Instead of laying out a grow...

Let me ask any who care to answer...

How would one get the most bang for their buck using this set up ?

How would you go about finishing this tent/pools ?

Up to 4 month of Veg time to play with.
In the tent- 5 if really needed.

100% Screened and washed CC with a PPK and semi flood/pulse.
(I want to use a 900 to 1200 gph pump for each pool)


The GSC is something I really want to use.
So let say just GSC in both pools.

I think this might open some possibilities that using even 2
different strains ,lack...

There's the challenge...

How to get the most out of this cut of GSC using 2 pools...

Freaky crazy x 4 stretch and I though super long node spacing yet looks to be a lot closer this run...

So
GSC

x4 stretch
Semi tight node spacing
Lower than average, fan leaf count/formation
takes training.


How would you go about this challenge ?


I double do dare ya..





.
 
B

Born Loser

Member
Holy crap! I think you might need a 2 story tent at 4-5 months veg!
hmmmmmmmmmmm

so you aren't planning on using any of the seeds you made??!!

Ima getting confoooosed..
 
DamnUglyDogE

DamnUglyDogE

Learning the rules well,so as to break them effect
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Born Loser said:
Holy crap! I think you might need a 2 story tent at 4-5 months veg!
hmmmmmmmmmmm

so you aren't planning on using any of the seeds you made??!!

Ima getting confoooosed..
Click to expand...



:laughing:


I'm a little ADHD & well medicated for it. ..

I'm just trying to work through some ideas and come up with a challenge
That I can look foward to over the summer.

I might need ta keep it in my head, eh. ...:biggrin:
 
DamnUglyDogE

DamnUglyDogE

Learning the rules well,so as to break them effect
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Going to run my gear on wave 2 ,next season. .. Simple yet better doughnuts. .
 
SRGB

SRGB

Member

Alien Dawg:


Let me ask any who care to answer...

How would one get the most bang for their buck using this set up ?

How would you go about finishing this tent/pools ?

Up to 4 month of Veg time to play with.
In the tent- 5 if really needed.

--


How would you go about this challenge ?


Hi, Alien Dawg.

Reducing the total specimen to 4 might be an option. 2 in each pool. With an estimated longer vegetation period, 8 specimen per pool might quickly grow into (over grow) each other, even with thinning. Perhaps 24/7, or 20/4 light regime, all luminaires on. Ideally, we would experiment with only 1 specimen per pool in that sized area, with the total light that you alluded to, but 4 might work well.

With the lights positioned something like

o..X..X..o
......o.....

where o = luminaire, X = pool.

Options might include staggering the lights in a `V` type shape, so they would not shine into each other; raising at least one of the lights to as high as it can go in the tent, so the specimen were encouraged to grow `up` during vegetation; angling the lights at approximately 15 degrees to form a more asymertical illumination pattern; positioning the specimen similar to this

z....z....
..z....z..

inside of the pools, with an extended vegetation period, the foliage might grow to fill the entire area; at least 12 stakes per specimen, in two concentric circles around the specimen. The branches which might grow into the areas where current vessels are positioned would be able to be tied to the pre-positioned stakes; forming the stake (support) array prior to specimen filling the area might be advantageuous. For example, once a given branch reached a stake at the outer circle of stakes, the new shoots and growth beneath the tie-point could be thinned or removed, permitting the terminal flowers to grow up into the light, without lower growth below.

Ideally, we would probably experiment with only 2 specimen in that entire area. 1 specimen in each pool. Yet, 2 per pool might provide you with the experiences and results you are seeking, without having to manage the long term care of single large trees, which if something were to be amiss, might be disadvantageous for the entire season.

The configuration appears similar to your existing system configuration. While it may be `challenging`, or a new experience, reducing to total number of specimen in that amount of space, at least in the pursuit of larger plants of trees, might be advantageous. The current configuration might tend to produce plants that would quickly grow into each other, without any further space to grow into.

Our initial goal might be to extend the vegetative cycle until the point where the gardener could stand at the entry to the tent and not be able to see to walls behind the specimen due to foliage mass. Perhaps then we might prune, thin, and initiate flowering. The culmunitive goal might be to not be able to see any wall behind the specimen at the conclusion of the season, due to the area being entirely filled, or `maxed out` with its capacity of foliage, fruit or flowers.

Good start. The above are merely considerations that we noted while observing your tentative new system. By no definitive or the only way to proceed. We hope that this post might be helpful.

Best,
/SRGB/
 
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B

Born Loser

Member
I was assuming he meant one plant per pool... He said 'ignore pots and bamboo'

You could train 1 to open the center and drop a light or 2 inline with the main stalk...
Height is always optional with extensive training /pruning.. To an extent :)
 
SRGB

SRGB

Member

Born Loser:

I was assuming he meant one plant per pool... He said 'ignore pots and bamboo'

You could train 1 to open the center and drop a light or 2 inline with the main stalk...
Height is always optional with extensive training /pruning.. To an extent :)


Hi, Born Loser.

Thanks for the reminder about `ignoring` the vessels inside of the pool. The existing vessels and configuration does help to determine scale.

We found height to be advantageous. Of course, it would be width if the training were to proceed laterally. Whether `height` or `width`, we would encourage elongation of branches to promote more nodes and shoots. Whether or not those shoots were trained to go `up`, or `sideways`, or spun into various shapes when tied to supports would be best determined by the gardener at that stage.

During experiments, we preferred angles. A 1 foot cube has 12 inch sides. Yet, if one were to draw a line from a lower corner to an upper corner, that line would be approximately 17 inches.

One could position a luminaire directly above a specimen and form a `cone` around it with plant or tree limbs.

We preferred to position luminaires offset, and asymertical, to produce light where there might not be any in a purely symmertical configuration. Either might work.

We preferred to tilt luminaires at approximately 15 degrees so that light would both shine down onto the specimen at an angle (similar to the sun), and shine only slighlty upwards, encouraging growth `up`. Even if the luminare was positioned closer to the specimen, there would still be some illumination (photons) traveling towards the top of the overall garden.

If the luminare was `over` a specimen, we would still offset it from being exactly `centered` over the `bowled` specimen, again, to create asymertrical photon patterns, similar to those found in nature, where the sun shines upon (or, irradiates; `strikes`) the earth at angles. Further, those angles change in nature as seasons change, or as the earth `wobbles` on its axis.

[EDIT: FOOTNOTE]
In our previous post, we mentioned angling a vertical luminaire at approximately 15 degree. To clarify, we 15 degrees from the starting position of 90 degrees. So, the luminare might have a true angle of either 75 degrees or 105 degrees. As briefly noted above, at least two of the goals of such a positioning would be 1) mimic sunlight; and 2) creating an array light waves travelling both downward and upward, from a primarily vertical position.

Just some options that we found to be advantageous. By no means the only routes to proceed.

We hope that this post might be helpful.

Best,
/SRGB/
 
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DamnUglyDogE

DamnUglyDogE

Learning the rules well,so as to break them effect
ICMag Donor
Veteran
You all are awesome...

Great points to think on. ..

At work today so I will comment later..

Though I will say
...



I have taken 3-5 Baby Ficus tress and braided into one large tree
and wonder if I took to ladies in one pool(say 18" apart) I could do the same with marijuana ?

Have 2 plants grow as one . ..(same strain)
 
SRGB

SRGB

Member
Hi, Alien Dawg.

Grafting can be difficult. There are several threads at ICMAG about the practice. The most important part being sealing the bond so that tissue can bond and the donor can supply water to the scion. There is grafting wax and other materials for that. Pipe wrap tape might also work. Might be an involved experiment. The `wedge` method might be the easiest to experiment with first.

[EDIT]
Upon re-reading your post, we view that you might be describing root grafting. We have experimented with root grafting too, with fresh cuttings. That too might be an option. We also have considered utitlizing the root system from a specimen after snipping the flowers, then grafting fresh scions onto that base and root system. Though, revegetation might take just as long to achieve, and have the benefit of modifying a specimen so that after revegetation initially takes place, the first set of new growth might tend to grow with shorter internodes. Just shaing some soilless gardening concepts.

Best,
/SRGB/
 
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