I agree 100% with this. Coco coir does release K over the course of a grow no doubt but I too think Canna could use a bump. I have in the past added potassium sulphate in peak flower and as the crop winds down. Definite noticeable improvement. You dont need much. I also like adding about 40 to 50 ppm (x500.scale) of potassium silicate all through veg and cut it after stretch and flowers are done setting and start to plump. Thats about the time I start to add K sulphate. General Hydroponics has that Cocotek Coco A & B and they dont seem to think a high K in the base is a bad thing. There is definitely room for different potassium additives and supplements if your using Canna Coco A & B. I also like adding 30 to 40% perlite to my re wetted Canna Brick Coco Coir. I know its not needed. Grown many a crop with straight uncut coco but I like the faster dry downs with it. With a smaller pot (relative to what one would normally use in a peat based mix) I can really hit them with multiple daily feeds with my drip system.
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canna a and b us feeding schedule?
- Thread starter Relentless
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I agree 100% with this. Coco coir does release K over the course of a grow no doubt but I too think Canna could use a bump. I have in the past added potassium sulphate in peak flower and as the crop winds down. Definite noticeable improvement. You dont need much. I also like adding about 40 to 50 ppm (x500.scale) of potassium silicate all through veg and cut it after stretch and flowers are done setting and start to plump. Thats about the time I start to add K sulphate. General Hydroponics has that Cocotek Coco A & B and they dont seem to think a high K in the base is a bad thing. There is definitely room for different potassium additives and supplements if your using Canna Coco A & B. I also like adding 30 to 40% perlite to my re wetted Canna Brick Coco Coir. I know its not needed. Grown many a crop with straight uncut coco but I like the faster dry downs with it. With a smaller pot (relative to what one would normally use in a peat based mix) I can really hit them with multiple daily feeds with my drip system.
Absolem
Active member
Hey Rondon,
I add perlite to my coco mix as well. For the same reason you do.
Iv'e been meaning to hit ya up on colder night time temps and it slowing down the stretch. You mentioned in a thread about it being an old greenhouse trick. Curious on what you found with cannabis. Does dropping the temp 15 degrees at night slow the stretch to 75% growth where a 20 degree difference will cut the stretch to 50%...etc?
I've always had shorter plants in the winter but never took notes how much the temp difference at night as a percentage would help with limiting the stretch in certain strains.
mmm... so turning the heaters off at night will prevent stretch? sounds useful!
Bit the bullet and ordered Krista SOP and Canna PK 13/14.
Wanna learn to take care of the orchard here, so this 25Kg sack will be also used to fertilize them.
Ordered Calcinit too, thinking on going full-salts, trying to locate Kristalon Brown or Hakaphos Basis 4...
@Absolem: would you use different ones?
Bit the bullet and ordered Krista SOP and Canna PK 13/14.
Wanna learn to take care of the orchard here, so this 25Kg sack will be also used to fertilize them.
Ordered Calcinit too, thinking on going full-salts, trying to locate Kristalon Brown or Hakaphos Basis 4...
@Absolem: would you use different ones?
do you mean 1/2 gram per gal?
that would equate to..
N ...121
P ... 51
K ...113
Ca ...98
Mg ...46
S ...32
OK after doing a lot of research on canna, it seems that they rely on tap water to be used for their nutrients to work correctly. They do not advice using with Ro at all.
Instead they say if you use Ro water, you should top it up with your rap water until you reach an ec of 0.4. This is apparently because the bicarbonates and calcium and magnesium buffer the solution.
They say in worst cases of bad water, you should use ro, but then add their "calmag agent"
https://www.canna-uk.com/about-calmag-agent
On inspection of the label, this contains bicarbonates with Ca and mg.
OK so after also reading many replies from. Canna scientists to customers on the forums, a lot of the methodology seems to be based on their a and b being used through veg and bloom. The idea being that it is feeding the coco in veg and releasing other elements by the time you switch to 12/12.
If you Google "where is canna hiding their calcium" you can also read a thread from The farm site about this discussion and can see canna's replies to the growers questions.
Finally I'm kinda left more confused. I've just figured out my profile for canna which falls closely in line with heads profile. With Ro. He seems to have no issues with cal and uses pretty much ro. Now canna would expect me to add more calcium and mag just because I'm using ro. Despite the numbers for me being close to heads at 8ml per gallon. I'm not sure why I'd need to add more if he doesn't need to?
Instead they say if you use Ro water, you should top it up with your rap water until you reach an ec of 0.4. This is apparently because the bicarbonates and calcium and magnesium buffer the solution.
They say in worst cases of bad water, you should use ro, but then add their "calmag agent"
https://www.canna-uk.com/about-calmag-agent
On inspection of the label, this contains bicarbonates with Ca and mg.
OK so after also reading many replies from. Canna scientists to customers on the forums, a lot of the methodology seems to be based on their a and b being used through veg and bloom. The idea being that it is feeding the coco in veg and releasing other elements by the time you switch to 12/12.
If you Google "where is canna hiding their calcium" you can also read a thread from The farm site about this discussion and can see canna's replies to the growers questions.
Finally I'm kinda left more confused. I've just figured out my profile for canna which falls closely in line with heads profile. With Ro. He seems to have no issues with cal and uses pretty much ro. Now canna would expect me to add more calcium and mag just because I'm using ro. Despite the numbers for me being close to heads at 8ml per gallon. I'm not sure why I'd need to add more if he doesn't need to?
My tap water is 150 ppm.
Current run have 2 rez for blumats one with canna nutes and one with h&g.
Running 3 plants with canna coco a&b one from seed and 2 clones all in one gallon pots. Plant from seed looking very good. Both clones have sick looking, pale new growth throught strech. This simptomps dissappear quickly after cal mag is added to solution and hand watering. I try playing with base but after hiting 3 ml/per litter 12 per gallon without improvement I drop canna rez and filled with h&g base because im afraid to not burn seed plant. Maybe at 4-5 ml pet litter plants will be fine but its too much ppm for my liking. I really want to deal with canna nutes and will try again. Next run.
Current run have 2 rez for blumats one with canna nutes and one with h&g.
Running 3 plants with canna coco a&b one from seed and 2 clones all in one gallon pots. Plant from seed looking very good. Both clones have sick looking, pale new growth throught strech. This simptomps dissappear quickly after cal mag is added to solution and hand watering. I try playing with base but after hiting 3 ml/per litter 12 per gallon without improvement I drop canna rez and filled with h&g base because im afraid to not burn seed plant. Maybe at 4-5 ml pet litter plants will be fine but its too much ppm for my liking. I really want to deal with canna nutes and will try again. Next run.
Hey Rondon,
I add perlite to my coco mix as well. For the same reason you do.
Iv'e been meaning to hit ya up on colder night time temps and it slowing down the stretch. You mentioned in a thread about it being an old greenhouse trick. Curious on what you found with cannabis. Does dropping the temp 15 degrees at night slow the stretch to 75% growth where a 20 degree difference will cut the stretch to 50%...etc?
I've always had shorter plants in the winter but never took notes how much the temp difference at night as a percentage would help with limiting the stretch in certain strains.
No. Ya got it backwards. Keep nighttime temps within 5 degrees + or - of daytime temps and it slows the first 2 week stretch. Keep it 5 degrees warmer at lights off and the stretch is minimal at best. Called the temperature differential or temp diff. It was discovered in the 70's & 80's at the MSU greenhouses in Lansing Michigan. And they found that keeping the same or slightly warmer nighttime temps in the greenhouse slowed bolting in leaf crops and slowed stem elongation when plants began fruitification during the season. Just so happens it can be applied to a c3 dioecious annual like cannabis as well. Combining temp diff manipualtion methods in a well controlled greenhouse or indoor grow room with crop steering techniques (fertigation/watering times/amounts) you can really make a crop do what you want with precision and control. Common accepted practice in greenhouse crop management these days. Most big veggie tomato and fruit hothouses employ these "tricks" to some degree to really dial in on managing the crops. Using row upon row of rockwool slabs or cocopeat bag culture and drip fertigation. Dr. Linda Morgan has an article on crop steering (moisture gradient/dry downs) with rockwool on the web that's pretty popular.
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After one week of feeding 60/40 rain/tap (around EC 0.15), plus Canna A+B @ 2ml/L + 1/2gr of Yara SOP per L, lowering PH with Nitric acid, EC 1.5, PH 5.6-8 I see things are sailing smooth: green all over, thick stems, needed to supercrop and train almost daily, canopy has raised like 10cm/4in:
I expect missing salts to arrive next week, once Canna A+B is over I'll only use Hakaphos Basis 4, Calcinit & Yara MKP/SOP... and will possibly be stocked for a lifetime
Rain water availability is plenty now, planning on recycling AC water in the future (will have plenty on summer). Thinking on a RO unit too.
I expect missing salts to arrive next week, once Canna A+B is over I'll only use Hakaphos Basis 4, Calcinit & Yara MKP/SOP... and will possibly be stocked for a lifetime
Rain water availability is plenty now, planning on recycling AC water in the future (will have plenty on summer). Thinking on a RO unit too.
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Absolem
Active member
Thanks for the quick reply repuk I appreciate it. I was reading up on yara sop 52 and they list "Can be mixed with all water-soluble fertilizers other than calcium-containing products." Reading this had me worrying if I should mix it in a certain order with my canna a&b. Sounds like after is fine 
Yes, Calcinit for example specifies that, theoretically you should keep two different reservoirs, mixing just in time for the dripping.
That would be the ideal, but hey this is a hobby...
I think there's no problem due to our reservoir sizes which usually get depleted fast (rarely a week in my case) before any precipitation takes place.
Having a good mixing device for the res constantly recirculating it helps also: small pump or (love them) wave maker like device.
That would be the ideal, but hey this is a hobby...
I think there's no problem due to our reservoir sizes which usually get depleted fast (rarely a week in my case) before any precipitation takes place.
Having a good mixing device for the res constantly recirculating it helps also: small pump or (love them) wave maker like device.
