Can we please make a Sticky for Powdery Mildew, Bud Rot, etc...

[vapedg13]

Sulfur vapes are the easiets to use on large crops if your small time try www.greencure.net

I have tried milk/water, h202 and water, dutch master & penetrator, almost everything.... the pm always returns in about 4-5 days......Greencure keeps it at bay for about 10 days twice as long.

Pm is like herpes for weed....once you get it... you'll never be rid of it but you can controll it.

............................................heres how to make a homemade sulfur vape use a 60 watt bulb no larger or it will get to hot

 

[Che]

Green cure is the Cannabis Cultivators secret weapon, we all have Silverback to thank for that.

 

[fyahfohigha]

Dutch Master Zone with a little soap,(Penetrator instead of soap is better), and JMS stylet dunks are doing a great job at keeping the any and all PM spores/mites away, however, I still think blight/fungal virus is a big problem. New growth is green, healthy and abundant, however I continue to have dead foliage wilt, dry up to a crisp, and fall off of the bottom. It isn't horrible, but it does happen. I am deciding whether to flower them out hoping it isn't a complete loss, and that PM/mites don't show back up late into flower again. Or I was thinking of chopping them all up into clone , cleaning out EVERYTHING 100% and bombing the place, doing all the preventatives you can think of in every way to prevent it from coming back (mainly Dutch Dunks, Neem Soil, JMS Stylet oil foliar, and a few others as well. I have read that people where able to keep the PM form showing up when they repeat dunks all through veg, but I am scared it wont keep any possible blight/disease away from living in my cuts the whole way through and effecting them? Any advice or experience anyone?

 

[sarek]

Here is an interesting article on using fungicides on vegetables in greenhouses. Products labeled for use on vegetables are automatically safer than ornamental fungicides. That being said I am not sure of most of these producs. Read up on them, maybe some of these are pretty low toxicity asnd effective. This article is a starting point for further research....

Even tho this is for vegetables, cannabis more like tobacco cos you burn the plants, you dont eat the fruit

Remember to rotate so u dont develop resistance, even if its oil, sopay water, milk etc.

MUR06-110 - Evaluation of various reduced-risk products for management of powdery mildew in greenhouse cucumber, tomato and pepper
Project Lead

Raymond Cerkauskas - Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada
Objective

To identify and assess new reduced-risk materials for control of powdery mildew on greenhouse vegetables

Powdery mildew is a perennial problem of greenhouse cucumber, pepper, and tomato and can cause severe losses, if left unchecked. Environmental control of this disease is very limited and growers often depend on pesticides for control. Fungicides such as Sulphur, Nova (myclobutanil), and Milstop (potassium bicarbonate) are registered for control of powdery mildew on greenhouse vegetables. Sulphur is not often applied to the crop because of phytotoxicity, particularly during warm weather, and therefore growers have depended almost solely on Nova for control. However, since the registration of Nova several growers have reported decreased efficacy of this fungicide for control of powdery mildew.

In this project, a number of alternative reduced risk products were evaluated for their control of powdery mildew in greenhouse cucumber, pepper and tomato. Trials included water as well as Milstop and Nova as controls.

P. xanthii develops very quickly on cucumber leaf tissue in comparison to either pepper or tomato powdery mildew. Consequently, testing for efficacy of control of cucumber powdery mildew is a good indicator of likely success in control of pepper and tomato powdery mildews.

Lactosan, a fermented milk product, was not effective at 5% or 7.5% in controlling cucumber powdery mildew; however, the addition of surfactant (Agral 90) resulted in good control of powdery mildew. A somewhat similar observation was made with KBV when used with a surfactant. Yo-K-San, another milk product, with surfactant was somewhat effective, while Actinovate (Streptomyces lydicus) and Endofine (Clonostachys rosea) were not very effective in control of P. xanthii. The addition of a surfactant may contribute to enhanced efficacy of the latter two materials.

Quintec (quinoxyfen) was very effective at very low rates in our trials. Increasing rates of Quintec resulted in increasing the level of control of cucumber powdery mildew. Residual activity was considerably greater than 7 days.

Valent-10118, Procure (triflumizole fungicide), Pristine (pyraclostrobin + boscalid fungicide), and Prev-Am (citrus oil + borax) were effective in control of cucumber and pepper powdery mildew at the rates applied. Residual activity exceeded 7 days, the time by which a second application of Milstop (potassium bicarbonate) would need to be re-applied for control of cucumber powdery mildew.

Siliforce (SIO2, K2O: 2%, PEG 400: 46%) was intermediate in control of cucumber powdery mildew. CaCl2 + surfactant and K2HPO4 + surfactant, at the rates applied, were both only somewhat effective with CaCl2 + surfactant more effective than the latter. There was some phytotoxicity observed with K2HPO4 + surfactant after spray application. Residual activity of CaCl2 + surfactant and K2HPO4 + surfactant was less than that of the new fungicides such as Valent-10118, Procure, Pristine, and Prev-Am that were evaluated.

Results for control of pepper powdery mildew were similar to those for cucumber powdery mildew except CaCl2 + surfactant, K2HPO4 + surfactant, and lactosan + surfactant were only somewhat effective.

Results for control of tomato powdery mildew were less consistent than those for control of cucumber or pepper powdery mildew. Best control was achieved with Nova, Procure, Pristine, Quintec and Valent-10118. Some of the tomato powdery mildew trials need to be repeated.

Trials with Nova, Milstop, Sporodex (Pseudozyma flocculosa), ßitalicize Lactosan and Yo-K-San at several commercial greenhouse cucumber sites for control of powdery mildew were conducted. Milstop, Sporodex, Lactosan and Yo-K-San were as effective as Nova in control of cucumber powdery mildew over a 7 day period, however, more than double the number of spray applications were required to maintain similar control as that of the Nova treatment. Alternative reduced-risk materials, with a different chemistry and a different mode of action, are ideal and necessary to enable growers to practice rotation as a resistance management strategy.

 

[BudZad7]

Maxicrop......

Maxicrop......

Hi All!!Had mold like clockwork every 2 weeks and used everything for
mold and what not....then I started using Maxicrop liquid seaweed..from start to finish, and have not had a mold issue in over 2+ years.....knock on wood!
Go to Maxicrops website and read the info......good luck.....Peace!!!

DUDES USE MAXICROP SEAWEED PLEASE!!!! ALL THAT OTHER STUFF IS ONLY TEMPORARY FIXES!!! JUST GIVE IT A TRY<SPRAY IT
ON TOP AND UNDER LEAVES AND PUT IN THE ROOT ZONE WHAT DO YOU HAVE TO LOSE......PEACE!!!

 

[GetMedicated]

myclobutanil + mancozeb = Clevis

myclobutanil + mancozeb = Clevis

combination fungicide I recently purchased for dealing with PM. (and rust) called CLEVIS.

-----

MAXIMIZE PREVENTION AND CURATIVE CONTROL WHILE MINIMIZING
RESISTANCE WITH THIS NEW DUAL-ACTION SYSTEMIC FUNGICIDE.
CLEVIS PROVIDES BROAD-SPECTRUM CONTROL OF NUMEROUS DISEASES
IN TURF, ORNAMENTALS, APPLES, AND GRAPES.

Clevis is a pre-mixed formulation of myclobutanil, the active ingredient in Eagle® specialty fungicide, combined with mancozeb, the
active ingredient in Dithane® specialty fungicide. Test results demonstrate that Clevis provides very good to excellent preventative
and curative results on a wide range of diseases, often exceeding what one would expect from the combination of these two widely
used fungicides. Clevis provides control of key turf diseases including Brown Patch, Dollar Spot, Summer Patch, and Rust. Clevis is
also labeled for Scab, Powdery Mildew, Rust and 17 other ornamental diseases.
In addition, the combination of these active ingredients provides a reliable solution to fungicide resistance as the active
target pathogens utilize unrelated modes of action, virtually eliminating the resistance development.

product pdf http://www.supremeturfproducts.com/PDF/Resources/GPN0706_ProkozReprint_1_.pdf

 

[SKUNK420]

What about using UV-C to sterilize the air during a grow. Then UV-C and heat, temps above 100 degrees between crops to sterilize the room and gear?
Also is it true that PM is dormant and just waits for the right conditions in order to reproduce or whatever the exact term is?

 

[canadiancracker]

if you use dutchmaster zp dips, wear gloves for the dips and wash yours plants the next day or after 2 days and wear gloves for this also. this will stop the bottom leaves from dying off. this happends because the ph on the leaves stays too high for too long and drys out the leaves. they become brittle and become susseptible to dieasease.

after dipping zp twice i see no pm 7 days since last dip.

i burned the shit outta my skin with the zp so WEAR GLOVES AND GOGGLES.
exzema and having to by cream shouldnt be added to your expenses.

CC

 

[highsteppa]

how'd the clevis work?

 

[wolfeman]

Looking for some help on PM

Looking for some help on PM

Hello all, I had a good amount of PM in my last crop so I am searching for some answers...

Coincidentally, I am in the process of tearing down my room and relocating to a different room in the house. So, now is a great time to eradicate the PM.

Questions:

I read somewhere that once PM is in a plant it is there forever. True? If so that means all the clones I've taken from it will have PM also? Should I kill them all and start over?

If I set up my new room with all equipment in there (no plants) and do a sulfur burn, is my room now sterile?

The last grow (my third) that produced the mold, I was running lower temps (75f or so) than the previous two. Humidity was around 50% Could this be the reason for the mold? My first two grows I was instructed by my "mentor" (who is no longer around) to keep the temps in the low to mid 90's F. I had no problems then and good yields. Did I just answer my own question? hehe

Is there anyway to treat my teens that came from the infected crop before putting them in the new room- or are they doomed?

My room is 10'x10' sealed. Co2 at 1450, 4x1000w air cooled from outside, ebb and flow using rockwool. Has an air conditioner and two fans to keep it all moving around. The reservoir is underneath the sealed room.

Assuming the RH was the problem, at what RH% can I be sure this doesn't happen again?

Thanks to those who respond. I think you can see my predicament and what I would like to achieve regarding a clean new grow space. Any other suggestions would be most appreciated!!

 

[wolfeman]

......

 

[Grat3fulh3ad]

Physan 20.

Wash everything in your grow with properly diluted Physan. Walls, pots, lamp hoods, floor, every surface. With half strength Physan wash the leaves of every plant that is not flowering, and rinse after a few hours, repeat the leaf wash after one week. If you have plants in flower, I would not physan them... quarantine them if possible, if not possible you may need to treat them with some other method to prevent re-contamination.

since I used Physan on the leaves, and have been using Physan to clean the surfaces of my garden space and my garden tools I have had no mildew or rot problems at all.

 

[MrHiRollller]

Here is a couple of pics. I spotted this white powder on the leaves. I think its mold, please help. There are other strains in the box that are clean with no white powder so far.

Info
Strain--Rocklock
week 4 of vegging
Soil grow
Ph--6.5
Temp--64-78 degrees
Humidity--65%
Tent--3 1/2 ft by 3 1/2 ft by 7 ft
Light--HPS 400 watts
Nutes--All Fox Farms
Fan--9 inch osolating fan

I am running a small heater to keep the temps up. The box is in my garage and at night the temps here are in the 20's.

 

[vicious bee]

Here's some info that may be very interesting to those reading this thread. I'm interested in boats and while reading about such there was a post by a Chemist on how to stop wood rot and fungus. Apparently ethylene glycol kills fungus in wood and even on people's bed sores. Here's the link and I'll post his summery. I don't suggest putting this on your plants but it might be good to sterilize the grow area.
http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=93629&goto=nextoldest
Dave Carnell
01-20-2006, 06:17 AM
I am the person who has most often promoted ethylene glycol antifreeze for curing fungal problems from wood rot to bed sores. I discovered the antifungal properties of ethylene glycol in connection with wood rot back around 1980. Later I translated the action to curing athletes foot and toenail fungus. I amazed my urologist by quickly curing the balanophosphitis on my penis with ethylene glycol as the alternative to his recommended circumcision in the early 1990s. In 1999, my beloved wife became bedridden and a complete invalid. After a while in bed she began to develop incipient bedsores. I spiked the ointment the caregivers were using with ethylene glycol. The sores disappeared, so I gave the caregivers a dropper bottle of ethylene glycol to use on the sores. When Eleanor died in 2002, the caregivers told me they had never seen anyone bedridden so long with such unblemished skin. Just last year, one of these ladies who still works for me had her 97-year old mother in hospice dying of cancer. When the old lady developed bed sores, Louise spiked the lotions the nurses were using with antifreeze. When the bed sores healed, the nurses and doctor were most interested in what she had done.

It is not unusual for chemicals to have a wide range of interactions. Because of strokes I have had, I regularly take a blood thinner to reduce the likelihood of clots and further strokes. The generic name of the thinner is warfarin. Warfarin was developed during WW II as a rat poison by the Wisconsin Alumni Research Foundation. It kills the rats by causing internal bleeding. My dose has to be carefully regulated, of course.

Back to wood. Nontoxic propylene glycol antifreeze is useless against rot and insects because it is nontoxic.

Ethylene glycol has properties very similar to water. It is extremely hygroscopic and is powerfully absorbed by wood so that it is not easily washed out. Apparently, only a low concentration is required to kill rot based on my observations of the sustained resistance of glycol-treated wood to rot in bilges regularly submerged.

Antifreeze will very quickly penetrate frozen wood. The best windshield deicer I know is about a 10% solution of ethylene glycol antifreeze in water. Applied to frozen wood, it will melt the ice, promptly penetrate the wood, and kill any rot organisms or boring insects.

There is a product called Boracar® for treating wood to prevent rot and insect attack. It is borates dissolved in ethylene glycol. It is getting a lot of its effectiveness from the ethylene glycol, though this cannot be claimed, as no one has EPA-registered EG as a fungicide and insecticide. On the other hand, research by Gougeon has shown that borate-treated wood gives weak joints with epoxy.

Ethylene glycol penetrates dry or wet wood as no other wood treatment does.

 

[superpedro]

I'm doing a little test in my grow thread if anyones interested. I would be happy if someone with an infested grow would like to do a test of the effect. I'm only able to test a healthy plant for the odd chance of any negative effects. But if you feel you got nothing to loose?
UV-C as mildew and mold protection, has been used to protect plants very easily infected at professional plant nurseries.
It has shown to be more effective protecting plants with a few seconds of UV-C light, than the ordinary chemical and biological treatments.
It cant heal plants, but stop an infection from spreading and protect from new attacks.

 

[vicious bee]

I bought one of those UV-C room filter sterilizers for that purpose. Didn't think about directly shining the light on the plant. Do you have a link that explains how the nurseries are set up?

 

[grapeman]

I find that since I've been using EWC teas as a foliar once a week, it helps PREVENT mildew from taking hold in the room. That coupled with keeping tabs on my humidity levels and keeping a clean room, I haven't seen the Mildew for a year.

But, I have been fighting mildew for over 40 years on other crops and I am very well versed on eradication of this problem. I have been used as an established expert witness on mildew damage, control and containment.

What I do if I sense or see any mildew in the clone/veg room is spray with Elite (Bayer Pharma). It is a Sterol Inhibitor (prevents mildew from planting it's foot onto the green tissue of the plant. It is systemic and works for 21 days or so. It takes certification to purchase at the Ag Chemical supply store. but I'm sure one could find it on-line. Elite is one of the older chemicals (10 years maybe? but these plants tolerate it very well with no ill effects) and in high pressure situations, one should always rotate their preventative products to avoid a strain of mildew building a tolerance to one product. Serenade mentioned above is a good product and I have used it many times on this crop and others. Also, a newer product called Metaltox (I think sp) is a newer product for "greenhouse' applications for flowers and vegetables. Not for sale in the US. I have some ordered from my good friends in Mexico as I like to have these things on the shelf just in case.

To sum up. Clean room, monitor humidity, good air movement, EWC Teas (wet entire plant and under the leaves) and have your standby "industrial strength" product on the shelf to kill it when you see some mildew BEFORE it becomes a problem.

But the use of EWC (ACT) tea has the Elite and other products on the shelf for the time being. BTW, the USDA published a paper showing that properly brewed EWC Tea helps prevent powdery mildew and Botrytis. With all the added benefits of EWC tea, the prevention of disease is just a minor plus. Also, Water with a non-ionic spreader (soap) will kill mildew, but will not prevent it's return if spore pressure is high.

BTW - to the person who mentioned chimeras's mildew thread. Chimera is mis-informed about mildew and how it spreads and attacks the plant. He claims that mildew spreads within the plant which is complete bullshit and bad information. Mildew is spread via spores. Millions of them in a bad infection in a 10 x 20 grow room. Billions and trillions of spores outside if there is a mildew infestation on a farm nearby. In this case, you need a commercial product. I left his thread as when I tried to educate him he argued with me and i don't suffer fools well.

So I'm glad THIS is the Mildew Sticky.

 

[superpedro]

I bought one of those UV-C room filter sterilizers for that purpose. Didn't think about directly shining the light on the plant. Do you have a link that explains how the nurseries are set up?

Text is in Danish, but a few good pictures of application in roses.
http://danskeprydplanter.dk/download.php?id=315

I'll try to find some pictures of the applications in cucumbers after Christmas, and I'll have better time for translation.

Merry X

 

[vicious bee]

Thanks

 

[Phillthy]

Hi All!!Had mold like clockwork every 2 weeks and used everything for
mold and what not....then I started using Maxicrop liquid seaweed..from start to finish, and have not had a mold issue in over 2+ years.....knock on wood!
Go to Maxicrops website and read the info......good luck.....Peace!!!

DUDES USE MAXICROP SEAWEED PLEASE!!!! ALL THAT OTHER STUFF IS ONLY TEMPORARY FIXES!!! JUST GIVE IT A TRY<SPRAY IT
ON TOP AND UNDER LEAVES AND PUT IN THE ROOT ZONE WHAT DO YOU HAVE TO LOSE......PEACE!!!

this is the same basic ingredient in most of the silicon additives. this also has chlorine in it though.