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Butane honey oil for dummies

:joint:Hi fellow oil lovers:
I have followed this thread for a while and feel it is my duty to bust a few myths. Although this thread is for BHO discussion there are several othr hash oil processes discussed as well.
It doesn't really matter what process you use it is all the same process really. You are simply using a solvent to release the essential oils and THC from the plant material.

Whatever method you use the solvent is distilled off leaving nothing but the oil. I REPEAT, the solvent is distilled off leaving no trace of the solvent(unless you are using some really F****D up solvent that has elements that won't vaporize at the temperature you are distilling at. So for those of you who have concerns of solvent traces left behind...it just isn't going to happen if you process your oil correctly.
Obviously most of you arent going to spring for the cost of lab grade solvents so I would recomend if you are using anything except butane or lab grade solvents, pre distill your solvents (at the correct vaporization temp) for the solvent you are using. You can get this info online at the chemistry sites. For those of you who do not understand the process of purification through distillation post the question and I will explain in another post.
I have made hash oil using many processes over the past 35 years or so. If you are starting with good dry bud and trim you cant beat the BHO method.
If you want to make oil with fresh trim and bud (or partially dry) there are several good ways to get good high quaity oil but it does require more work and at the least some basic lab equipment.
As I said earlier I have niether the will or desire to step on the BHO thread. I think it is a great thread and BHO is one of the better hash oils produced.
If there is enough interest in the other methods let me know and I will start a thread on hash oil production processes.
Peace and love to all
Da Beach Bum
 

Metatron

Member
Just did my first run of BHO with four batches. I've moved one batch to a jar and it needs to be purged more and was wondering if I can continue to purge in the jar? If not its super sticky any other ways to get it out to be purged in pyrex dish again?

TIA

M-
 

Hashmasta-Kut

honey oil addict
Veteran
if its not too thick in the jar it should purge in a day or two in a warm place. maybe hot water bath underneath it even if you want..
 

Metatron

Member
if its not too thick in the jar it should purge in a day or two in a warm place. maybe hot water bath underneath it even if you want..

i've done that to my tainted batch with great results. smokes firework free and is a nice brown amber oil. I ran another batch of grinded herb and purged over three days! the stuff is amber oil and is thicker almost to the consistency of moldable putty but still oil.

How can I get that consistency?

TIA

M-
 
Just did my first run of BHO with four batches. I've moved one batch to a jar and it needs to be purged more and was wondering if I can continue to purge in the jar? If not its super sticky any other ways to get it out to be purged in pyrex dish again?

TIA

M-

If you need to get it out of the jar you can dilute it with pure ethanol or petroelum ether(do not use diethyl ether under any circumstances!!!!! unless you are planning to comit suicide!!!!)
if using ethanol float your pyrex dish in a pan of water@ 180 to 190 deg F. I would recomend covering your pyrex dish with a cotton cloth to keep out water vapor, the ethanol vapor will pass out through the cloth just fine.
if using pure pertrelum ether you only need to use warm water not over 140deg. F. Pure petroelum either will vaporize (boil) at 90 deg. F the higher you get above that temp the more violent the boiling action will become.
 

Metatron

Member
If you need to get it out of the jar you can dilute it with pure ethanol or petroelum ether(do not use diethyl ether under any circumstances!!!!! unless you are planning to comit suicide!!!!)
if using ethanol float your pyrex dish in a pan of water@ 180 to 190 deg F. I would recomend covering your pyrex dish with a cotton cloth to keep out water vapor, the ethanol vapor will pass out through the cloth just fine.
if using pure pertrelum ether you only need to use warm water not over 140deg. F. Pure petroelum either will vaporize (boil) at 90 deg. F the higher you get above that temp the more violent the boiling action will become.

Thanks BB, but where would one go about getting pure ethanol or ether?
 

greenjoe

Member
OG oil

OG oil

Excellent thread everyone...I have a question? Could i cut these buds off,put them right away into the extractor, and get smokable oil, that doesn't taste green?..Thanks

yes i did read it somewhere on page 58 or something...just want to be updated in case some new developments....lol
 

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Thanks BB, but where would one go about getting pure ethanol or ether?

Pure ethanol is readily avaliable. Everclear is available at your local liquor store and is 99.5% pure. Alcohol stove fuel is denatured ethanol. It will make you sick if you drink it but it will evaporate out of your hash oil with no residue or taste. Most emergency fuel sold at the auto supply stores is pure ethanol. denatured alcohol is available at your local builders supply store. Read the labeled ingredients to make sure it is a pure product without additional additives.
The most common source of petroleum ether is electrical contact cleaner. this is avaliable at most industrial maintence and supply companies or online. I personally prefer petroleum ether but a word of caution....petro ether is very volatile. I cannot express the need for safety with any volitale chemicals strongly enough. Your first mistake with it could well be the last thing you will ever do.
I hope this will help you out....happy smokin;
Da beach Bum
 

SB7

Member
mmmhh I would think that 200proof = 100 %
Therefore 190/2 =95% not 99.5%

That's in the US though. The old international standard was 100% = 175 proof. Not sure if any countries still use that.


JMHO
 

Metatron

Member
I know that I've read somewhere on how to make candy-like BHO using a solvent. I just can't find it anymore

Can anyone direct me in the right direction?

TIA
 

TickleMyBalls

just don't molest my colas..
Veteran
why does it seems like this thread has drifted away from the butane honey oil part and is now mostly dummies?
 

Metatron

Member
I am serious. Everyone says properly purged BHO yields amber/candy. I've taken my time purging and only end up with dark thick oil.

Correct me if I'm wrong but their is a way to wash with a solvent after purging to make amber?
 

TickleMyBalls

just don't molest my colas..
Veteran
I think "amber/candy" mostly depends on the balance of THCA/THC in the resin,
even properly purged BHO with high THC content will not brittle.

thats not true at all man. I'm with HMK. my oil turns out amber/candy and shatters with one run of butane, nothing else. you're all making it too complicated.
 

SB7

Member
Sorry Metatron, I took your first post to mean you were looking for a BHO thread , and you were in THE BHO thread.
I'm in the same boat as you, re: everyone else gets glass 'cpet us.
I see Jump has answered that ... THCA vs THC . THCA = glass, THC = not glass.
Today I vacuum purged heated BHO ( with an industrial vacuum pump/heating system) and still ended up with somewhat gooey BHO that , wasn't hard and brittle.
I aslo did the same thing with some BHO , washed in ISO ( thanks to the puritans in gov. I can't get ethanol) and filtered, then vacuum purged. No difference. Still not glassy. All my BHO was made from long cured bud. ( High THC vs THCA ratio I suspect ...as I can't measure that)
I'll try fresh ( not cured) bud for my next BHO run and see what happens.
 

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