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Building a Home Made LED

hempfield

Organic LED Grower
Veteran
I'm coming across lots of different information about heatsinks. I'm trying to figure out how much heat my heatsinks can dissipate. Dimensions are 250mm (L), 30mm (D), 40mm (H). It has 27 fins so that the surface onto which leds would go is 250 by 30.
It seems that many recommendations fall between 5 and 10 square inches per watt. But I'm having a hard time figuring out what I should take as the useful surface area of the heatsink!
I'd like to put 6 xml on there, at about 5w each, perhaps a bit less. Light fan cooling. Any known guidelines for my calculations?

I used a 200x100x25mm heatsink and 92x92x20mm PC fan for 10x XM-L U3, driven at 2500mA. The heatsink temperature is 40-42 degrees Celsius with fan running and the power meter indicates a 99W consumption : https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=5620318#post5620318
 

Just me

New member
Enclosures...

Enclosures...

Hi,
The electronics-part of designing/building my own growlight isn't a huge problem for me since I love to tinker with micro-controllers/electronics and have... been growing MJ for a while. One thing that I am having problems with is finding good enclosures to house the growlight(s) that I want to build. As electronics hobbyist I normally use enclosures of old equipment to house my projects. Instead of (for example) using an old desktop PC with 1 or 2 covers open I wouldn't mind finding more professional box(es) to house all electronics of a growlight though. It's a pity I don't have the knowledge/equipment to make my own enclosure-stuff, I also haven't read all 45 pages of this thread to see whether my question has been asked before, but does anyone know where I could find "growlight"- enclosures for a reasonable price ?
 

rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
One thing that I am having problems with is finding good enclosures to house the growlight(s) that I want to build.

This was probably the most difficult thing for me to deal with - I wanted an enclosure to protect the components and give a finished look, and wound up with about the same time & money into the cabinet as I did the rest of the components on my Hybrid fixture. The VolksLED was a reaction to that, you might find an answer there. The enclosure that I used for the drivers and ballasts on the Hybrid came from Par-Metal.com. The last time that I checked, their site was up but they were on hold as a result of a fire at their facility. They make nice enclosures for a reasonable price, and will do custom work.

You might take a look at the aluminum enclosures from Bud on Mouser.com. They have some things that might be adaptable to what you want. Onlinecomponents.com has a smaller inventory, but killer prices and reasonable shipping.
 

tenthirty

Member
Ya, boxes are indeed the hardest part.
Have you considered getting a sheet metal sheer and break and making your own?
 

tebos

Member
I didn't read the whole thread, just skimmed a bit here and there, so sorry if this has been asked a lot: why are you using neutral white LEDs?

A warm + cold white tint should cover almost the whole spectrum, maybe supplement the reds a bit more.
 

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tebos

Member
Yes, ok, for vegitating, but for flowering WW and CW have a broader spectrum. Or am I missing something?
 

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran
IMHO, anything over about 30% blue in flower would be counterproductive and produce more leaf matter vs bud.

i humbly agree and am currently watching some things to confirm for myself the effect of high blue

which i dont necessarily find to be un-desirable

whats more; tebos; referencing your earlier post about ww and cw

ww and nw seems to be the preferable spectra on paper while the cw seems to offer an intensity which may be advantageous ~i think 1 cw in the center while providing the bulk of the spectrum w/ the nw and ww might be the way to apply that
 

tebos

Member
ww and nw seems to be the preferable spectra on paper while the cw seems to offer an intensity which may be advantageous ~i think 1 cw in the center while providing the bulk of the spectrum w/ the nw and ww might be the way to apply that
Yes, that's what I thought too, also CW is more efficient (highest bins I could find, at 1A):
CW (U3-1C) 150lm/W
NW (T6 3C) 130lm/W
WW (T3 7C) 105lm/W

So yes, CW is probably a nice addition in a cluster. But I'll go for WW+NW in my 3 emitter mini grow ;)
 

autojuice

Member
Help

Help

Got 10 xm-l neutrals in a string and powered by a mean well lpv 100 36.When i plug it in the leds just blink,whats wrong...wrong power supply or something else?
 

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran
that is confusing

there are blinking supplies but that does not seem to be one

maybe it is faulty?
 
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