Building a Home Made LED
- Thread starter tenthirty
- Start date
It's just me seeing this or the tops seems to be all oriented to the HPS bulb ? I would expect to see them bending towards the more 'blue' lights, in this case the LEDs.
Does anybody tried this LED driver for DIY projects ?
http://www.diodes.com/datasheets/ZXLD1362.pdf
Does anybody tried this LED driver for DIY projects ?
http://www.diodes.com/datasheets/ZXLD1362.pdf
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Phychotron
Member
Thats pretty much the style light I wanted to make. Where can I find more info on that? Love the plants, they're looking great.
ready to use
http://www.meanwell.com/search/LDD-H/LDD-H-spec.pdf
damned cheap in europa
http://www.pollin.de/shop/dt/MDc4OD...nstantstromquelle_MEANWELL_LDD_1000H_1_A.html
XM Among the cool things about the diy link I provided is, testing is now super simple.
Different strains may well prefer more CW or WW
I am now ~ 10 days into flowering with my F1 cross with 4 unique expressions.
Since Sats want more Red, and Indicas more Blue, figuring out which expression prefers which and how much, is challenging under one fixture
Come take a look at today's pics, which shows 3 plants under the HOT5 and one under the LED
Different strains may well prefer more CW or WW
I am now ~ 10 days into flowering with my F1 cross with 4 unique expressions.
Since Sats want more Red, and Indicas more Blue, figuring out which expression prefers which and how much, is challenging under one fixture
Come take a look at today's pics, which shows 3 plants under the HOT5 and one under the LED
So much to cover here...
First and foremost, I am glad that I am not the only one feeling the 'age' think coming on.. had to giggle a little when I read the part of having to steady the arm against something and the failing eyesight as well...My eyes have gone to shit in the past few years...I know what you mean about being able to read the smallest print..........but that was a different lifetime ago...:sigh:
Xmobotx...there is a very good thread about 660 and everything else along those lines of another forum.. I'll PM you the link...it's a long thread so be ready for some reading!!
Hemp.....what can I say.. you just do what you do and I'll just watch and learn..
guvoo...Meanwell's are definitely the way to go once you decide on a layout and see if it works and ratio is good...I'll be buying nothing else for my final product...
Now...here is my aluminium sheet with a layout in rectangle form on it as a preliminary plan. Let me know,,,good, bad or indifferent what you think.....I'll up the 'layout' a bit later on....was installing a network last night and got home around 2am so still kinda foggy and tired...
Thank you all ............just for being........you.......
<added info>...................
okay gang, instead of making another post,,,I'll jut add onto this one.....now, I know this layout and design is overkill...please don't tell me that.....I want it to be overkill....more bang for the buck...remember, I want to make something that can be used on a large scale to replace the 1K's that we're using in other locations now..........constructive criticism please......
The reds are 630 and 660 (light red and dark red) respectively...
way too many text edits involved in those little buggers to label them...self-explanatory I think anyway....
Let me know what you think please...
Thank you
First and foremost, I am glad that I am not the only one feeling the 'age' think coming on.. had to giggle a little when I read the part of having to steady the arm against something and the failing eyesight as well...My eyes have gone to shit in the past few years...I know what you mean about being able to read the smallest print..........but that was a different lifetime ago...:sigh:
Xmobotx...there is a very good thread about 660 and everything else along those lines of another forum.. I'll PM you the link...it's a long thread so be ready for some reading!!
Hemp.....what can I say.. you just do what you do and I'll just watch and learn..
guvoo...Meanwell's are definitely the way to go once you decide on a layout and see if it works and ratio is good...I'll be buying nothing else for my final product...
Now...here is my aluminium sheet with a layout in rectangle form on it as a preliminary plan. Let me know,,,good, bad or indifferent what you think.....I'll up the 'layout' a bit later on....was installing a network last night and got home around 2am so still kinda foggy and tired...
Thank you all ............just for being........you.......
<added info>...................
okay gang, instead of making another post,,,I'll jut add onto this one.....now, I know this layout and design is overkill...please don't tell me that.....I want it to be overkill....more bang for the buck...remember, I want to make something that can be used on a large scale to replace the 1K's that we're using in other locations now..........constructive criticism please......
The reds are 630 and 660 (light red and dark red) respectively...
way too many text edits involved in those little buggers to label them...self-explanatory I think anyway....
Let me know what you think please...
Thank you
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Ack..sorry...I didn't put in any sort of legend..my bad...
They are 3W and the plate is 12"x24".........it's almost to scale relative to itself...I put the dpi to 100 and then used a pencil tool to 75...so the 'LED's' show as 3/4"....Rectangles are 3"x4"...only thing is I got sloppy placing the reds so that's why they seem to be out of line.....
tenthirty
Member
The limiting factor in a DYI led is the heat sink.
They are expensive, but they are forever. (more or less)
The heatsink.
http://www.rapidled.com/drilled-tapped-1/
The 3' one is good for < 90 watts draw with cree leds.
You're not going to populate this heat sink with all 10w leds.
50/50 10w and 5w is pushing it. This is with cree leds, your mileage may vary with other brands.
tenthirty
Member
Get some fins on the back of the sheet and you should be good to go.
I would bend some angle 1"x1" more or less and screw/rivet them to the back of the sheet using thermal compound. (make fins) 1" spacing more or less.
Yeah...you;re probably right with that statement. An increase in total area to cool and dissipate heat is always better than not enough... I might be able to go back to the place I got the plate from and get the guy to cut and bend ( brake press) me some fins,,,,even if they are "Z" shape and then I attach them together....however it happens....more surface area is better the more I think about it..
Thank you for your input...
Thank you for your input...
well, i ordered 3 nw and 2 ww
thanks vukman for the link!
kinda gathering from that thread;
sailor seems to rec something more like 2c,2n,1w; wishing i'd gone w/ that combo
but also seems like that brings 'too much' red to the party like 5 LEDs isn't enough to bring the red ratio down
although, perhaps w/ 4c,4n,1w some additional @ 430n might be closer to optimum? -then he says; 'I have everything I need ,with just 3 different kind of white leds..'
thanks vukman for the link!
kinda gathering from that thread;
sailor seems to rec something more like 2c,2n,1w; wishing i'd gone w/ that combo
but also seems like that brings 'too much' red to the party like 5 LEDs isn't enough to bring the red ratio down
although, perhaps w/ 4c,4n,1w some additional @ 430n might be closer to optimum? -then he says; 'I have everything I need ,with just 3 different kind of white leds..'
yup, if you look at my preliminary layout, you'll see I'm putting in the CW, NW and WW in and then the reds and blues as well but I'll have switches on them so I can control them better. I now wish I would have bought dimmable drivers but since this is only a test light to see if I'm on the right road, the final will be with high-end chips and drivers as well..
Good Luck with your DIY project and I wish the same to everyone else as well..
While he has some interesting theories, if you look around, you will find a bunch of us that have had excellent success with a high percentage of 660nm.
yup, if you look at my preliminary layout, you'll see I'm putting in the CW, NW and WW in and then the reds and blues as well but I'll have switches on them so I can control them better. I now wish I would have bought dimmable drivers but since this is only a test light to see if I'm on the right road, the final will be with high-end chips and drivers as well..
Good Luck with your DIY project and I wish the same to everyone else as well..
yeah it would be inneresting to mess w/ introducing them both after the stretch
prob not worth getting scared of 660n ~seems as much like he makes a case for not needing so much though & remembering the oranges (and greens lol) or maybe homogenizing
Or, homogenizing w/ spikes in all the right places (as the "places" get figured out)
every journal, letter, site, page, document, etc..etc... I've ever read has had the peak of intake in the red for Chlorophyll A at or around the 660nm mark. Some studies have shown it to be higher at around 670-680 even so I'm with rives on that front. I've always maintained the need for having 660-680 in there although I've always added as well that there should be some IR around 730nm as well to aide in the 'Emmerson Effect"...(yes, I'm still on that one..;D)
Since I couldn't find any 730nm chips at a reasonable price range, I opted this time around not to use them....or......may I add no UVA or UVB as well which I also seem to have read quite a bit about plants needing especially that there seems to be more and more evidence that cannabis in particular, may have developed trichomes to protect the seeds from UVB radiation!! Theories they may be but there is evidence that trichome count does go up with the addition of UVB.
Now, let me say that if anyone is about to embark down this road, please be careful...UV isn't something to be played with lightly. I think rives there had some hashtips form as well which the trichomes are packed in pretty tightly as well..heheh... you lucky dog you...
Good Luck
Since I couldn't find any 730nm chips at a reasonable price range, I opted this time around not to use them....or......may I add no UVA or UVB as well which I also seem to have read quite a bit about plants needing especially that there seems to be more and more evidence that cannabis in particular, may have developed trichomes to protect the seeds from UVB radiation!! Theories they may be but there is evidence that trichome count does go up with the addition of UVB.
Now, let me say that if anyone is about to embark down this road, please be careful...UV isn't something to be played with lightly. I think rives there had some hashtips form as well which the trichomes are packed in pretty tightly as well..heheh... you lucky dog you...
Good Luck
SEEMS LIKE THE RIGHT TIME TO BRING THIS UP AGAIN
SEEMS LIKE THE RIGHT TIME TO BRING THIS UP AGAIN
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=229278&page=5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phaeton
UVB and near infrared are used for non chlorophyll purposes on healthy well lit plants.
Es verdad, amigo. And the best, most economical sources of IR for most growers are still simple, good ol' halogen lights, and Reptisun fluoros for UV-B, at present. (the dangers - and potential litigious nightmare - of incorporating expensive UV-B LEDs into a fixture notwithstanding)
Besides, without complete, independent control of the latter two (i.e. independent of the activity and photoperiod of the 'main' LED fixture), the grower's control over their desired photomorphological changes becomes rather tenuous at best.
If one is going to go that route, then both UV- and high-intensity, blue-mediated light damage (since that is what it is) should be adjustable - both in intensity, as well as photoperiodicity and duration.
As the higher-energy end of the spectrum isn't really a 'finishing/maturing' as much as it is a degradation (i.e. blue and UV pass through clear trichomes just fine; it's only when they become cloudy that they show any significant absorption of that energy, and quickly turn from cloudy to amber - at which point one should watch 'em like a hawk to keep your product from degrading too soon and ruining the desired effect), it should always be incorporated judiciously at first, and in small doses - until the effect on that particular cut is well-established, after which it can then be predicted with a 'fair' level of accuracy.
As one can see, the CREE Neutral White (I call it 'Goldilocks', because it's almost 'just right' ) has a RSPD that still allows nearly ~25% of its total power in the blue range (and plants only really 'need' ~8-10%), and more that 1/3 of which (i.e. the area under the curve) is over ~580nm or so (which has a Photosynthetic RS of over 90%!) - which is much better than even your typical 'Enhanced HPS'.
Couple that with strong white light (green-response chlorophyll extending throughout and deep into leaf structures, with a net effect at or near that of the (mostly) surface-level blue and reds), which also takes care of most of the ~660nm+ you actually need for photomorphogenesis - and you can get by with 630nm reds just fine.
(i.e. 630nm red is ~95% of the PSR of 660nm, AND they currently still have ~20-30% greater radiometric efficiency - as well as being cheaper than the deep reds - so there's more 'bang for the buck'):
SEEMS LIKE THE RIGHT TIME TO BRING THIS UP AGAIN
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=229278&page=5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phaeton
UVB and near infrared are used for non chlorophyll purposes on healthy well lit plants.
Es verdad, amigo. And the best, most economical sources of IR for most growers are still simple, good ol' halogen lights, and Reptisun fluoros for UV-B, at present. (the dangers - and potential litigious nightmare - of incorporating expensive UV-B LEDs into a fixture notwithstanding)
Besides, without complete, independent control of the latter two (i.e. independent of the activity and photoperiod of the 'main' LED fixture), the grower's control over their desired photomorphological changes becomes rather tenuous at best.
If one is going to go that route, then both UV- and high-intensity, blue-mediated light damage (since that is what it is) should be adjustable - both in intensity, as well as photoperiodicity and duration.
As the higher-energy end of the spectrum isn't really a 'finishing/maturing' as much as it is a degradation (i.e. blue and UV pass through clear trichomes just fine; it's only when they become cloudy that they show any significant absorption of that energy, and quickly turn from cloudy to amber - at which point one should watch 'em like a hawk to keep your product from degrading too soon and ruining the desired effect), it should always be incorporated judiciously at first, and in small doses - until the effect on that particular cut is well-established, after which it can then be predicted with a 'fair' level of accuracy.
As one can see, the CREE Neutral White (I call it 'Goldilocks', because it's almost 'just right' ) has a RSPD that still allows nearly ~25% of its total power in the blue range (and plants only really 'need' ~8-10%), and more that 1/3 of which (i.e. the area under the curve) is over ~580nm or so (which has a Photosynthetic RS of over 90%!) - which is much better than even your typical 'Enhanced HPS'.
Couple that with strong white light (green-response chlorophyll extending throughout and deep into leaf structures, with a net effect at or near that of the (mostly) surface-level blue and reds), which also takes care of most of the ~660nm+ you actually need for photomorphogenesis - and you can get by with 630nm reds just fine.
(i.e. 630nm red is ~95% of the PSR of 660nm, AND they currently still have ~20-30% greater radiometric efficiency - as well as being cheaper than the deep reds - so there's more 'bang for the buck'):
PetFlora.........you're the best!!!!!!!!!!
As for the UV and all that, I totally agree which is why I added the little warning in my post........I don't advise anyone to play around with UV unless they're totally sure of the dangers involved with them and even then, your suggestion about using reptile lights is bang on.....Personally, I would never put anything below 350nm into any lights I may build in the future and even then on a separate switch....same as the 660's I have on my layout...actually, both reds will be on separate switches. Then the blues will be together and finally the whites will be together.
I need to see if I can safely and properly dim them using a 'dimmer switch' of sorts so I don't have to wonder about that in the future.
I would like this first mock up to be as close to what I want as a final product as I can get........remains to be seen what reality will bring though...heheheh
Be Safe Everyone!!!!!
