What's new
  • As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.

Broad Mites?

Status
Not open for further replies.

brixx999

New member
Hey Cap,
What are your thoughts on SM-90... can we use it in conjunction with the microbe tea for soil drench? I've read all I can find on this, and it seems about 50/50... half people say yes no problem, and half say no way. Just wondering what your opinion is.
 

Budwhyser

Member
Has anyone successfully eradicated these and still had good yield and good smell? It seems to me that you can eliminate them but the plants that were infected never fully recover. They may look ok but it seems like yield and smell are not primo on these plants. Any different experiences with this?
 

Capulator

Member
Hey Cap,
What are your thoughts on SM-90... can we use it in conjunction with the microbe tea for soil drench? I've read all I can find on this, and it seems about 50/50... half people say yes no problem, and half say no way. Just wondering what your opinion is.

Hey Brix-

I think this thread is about broad mites so I don't want to go off topic, but I found this here on the site: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=101354&page=5

It's hard to say without knowing what exactly is in it. The thread mentions it being selective about killing anaerobic organisms, and sparing the aerobic ones, but this seems off to me. Not sure how you can be selective with microbes. I sent nutrilife an email with your question. I'll post the answers they give in the thread above.

-Cap
 

talktosamson

Active member
Veteran
Has anyone successfully eradicated these and still had good yield and good smell? It seems to me that you can eliminate them but the plants that were infected never fully recover. They may look ok but it seems like yield and smell are not primo on these plants. Any different experiences with this?

My last grow was infested before I really even knew what they were. The smell was just fine but the yeild suffered greatly. Big nugs slowly dried up into fluff balls on badly infected plants.
 
Does anyone know if these chemicals will kill the bennies in ogbiowar foliar pack?

Tea+Ogbiowar+Avid+Indicate 5

Tea+Ogbiowar+Forbid+Indicate 5

Tea+Ogbiowar+Azatrol+Spinosad+Indicate 5

Im considering brewing the foliar pack as a tea by (xtremegardening) and rotating the other chems in the mix with indicate 5. Im hoping to include other modes of action along with the Ogbiowar.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
Picture #4 distinctly shows a live mite on the leave at the bottom right side.

Look closer.

Well, you have better eyes than me. I see what you are talking about, but that could be a mite or it could be a speck of dust. Too small to tell for sure. Other mite photos in the thread are much bigger and easily distinguishable, and you can see legs.
But where there are mites, there are thousands of eggs, and they are unmistakeable, so that's why I recommended taking photos of underside of leaves, where there will be dozens, if not hundreds of eggs.
Much easier to see. Not looking for an argument, just saying that what I see, I couldn't say with 100% certainty exactly what it is.
 

Thomas Paine

Member
Veteran
re:

re:

For sure Retro, no problem.

I think I may see eggs too at the meeting of the stem junctures, but as you say it is still hard to tell due to the pics.

-------

On my OG Biowar treated plants the new growth is coming in all distorted and chewed up.

Gonna throw out everything, keep two small teens and move them outside to see if the OG Biowar does anything more. If not I'm just gonna toss them too.

Everything I read (outside of cannabis forums and such) say that infected plants are the vector for tarsonemid mites and the advice always seems to say remove any infected plants from the garden (and burn). Clean the grow space, and make sure to start with fresh un-infected plants.

So I'm gonna re-clean the entire room, cook all my leftover coco in the oven at 225 for 2 hours each batch, toss all my smart pots in the dryer on hot, crank the heat up in he room to 115 for 4+ hours and get new genetics.

From that point on I will do do an Avid and Einstein Oil dunk when the new plants are brought in the house, and then treatment with Einstein oil + wetting agent every week. Avid treatments every month.

Fuck it, I'm over it. Should of thrown everything out the first time instead of trying to treat shitty looking plants.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
For sure Retro, no problem.

I think I may see eggs too at the meeting of the stem junctures, but as you say it is still hard to tell due to the pics.

-------

On my OG Biowar treated plants the new growth is coming in all distorted and chewed up.

Gonna throw out everything, keep two small teens and move them outside to see if the OG Biowar does anything more. If not I'm just gonna toss them too.

Everything I read (outside of cannabis forums and such) say that infected plants are the vector for tarsonemid mites and the advice always seems to say remove any infected plants from the garden (and burn). Clean the grow space, and make sure to start with fresh un-infected plants.

So I'm gonna re-clean the entire room, cook all my leftover coco in the oven at 225 for 2 hours each batch, toss all my smart pots in the dryer on hot, crank the heat up in he room to 115 for 4+ hours and get new genetics.

From that point on I will do do an Avid and Einstein Oil dunk when the new plants are brought in the house, and then treatment with Einstein oil + wetting agent every week. Avid treatments every month.

Fuck it, I'm over it. Should of thrown everything out the first time instead of trying to treat shitty looking plants.

Eggs will be mainly UNDER leaves.
Aside from that, to clean your room, bring temps to 120F or more if there are no plants in there. 115F is kind of borderline and might not kill all mites. Be advised that they are probably also throughout your house/residence/yard. They get in the ducting and everywhere. So turn the heat up, and never assume that mites are gone completely. Keep scoping. They will be back.
 

sunset limited

Member
Veteran
i guess it's harmless enough (if foolhardy) that people are shelling out for this biological and that or roasting their plants in a 120° oven for 90 minutes to treat an invisible mystery mite. i mean, you're absolutely free to throw away your money or trash your own grow for any damn reason at all. that's not the thing that gets me though.

you've got guys on here, rookies and aces, hobbyists and pros alike, who are spraying harmful (and very often restricted) chemicals improperly and indiscriminately because they are trying to eradicate a pest THAT THEY AREN'T EVEN SURE THEY HAVE! i've been guilty of doing this out of desperation in the past too, so i'm not trying to take the moral high ground here. that said though, in just the last 20 odd pages of this thread, i have seen people decide they have broad mites from looking at lo-res pictures of specks of dust, mineral salt crystals, trichomes, moisture droplets, and nothing at all. what's more, there's other guys—some of whom should definitely know better—who are cosigning this insanity.

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do everyone a favor and don't harm yourself, your patients, your plants, your fellow growers, and the entire damn ecosystem by using these chemicals if, 1. you haven't POSITIVELY identified your pest, and 2. if you haven't bothered to educate yourself on proper pest control protocol. this sort of practice is the reason that we have spider mites that eat floramite for breakfast and staph cultures that will literally grow on penicillin.

IF YOU DON'T KNOW IF YOU'VE GOT BROAD MITES:
there are a number of respected universities to whose agriculture or entomology departments you can send samples. for a reasonable fee, a trained professional will inspect the material and tell you which (if any) pests are attacking your garden. i will try to find the specifics and post them.

IF YOU ARE THINKING OF SPRAYING CHEMICALS:
there is a book called the standard pesticide user's guide. used copies of late editions can be had on the internet for less than $5. if you are so inclined, you should be able to find a free copy on any torrent search engine. if you aren't a nurseryman or farmer by trade, you would do well to read this before you apply chemical pesticides.

</rant.
 
Last edited:

CannabisCan!

New member
Read though this whole thread over the last week and I think I've got the broads or something like this. I only have a radio shack 100x scope and I can't tell for sure if I'm seeing eggs or trichs or what... The only other thing it could be is that these are in a newly rebuilt room with exposed insulation board walls, is it possible these are offgassing or something? I've done two 120 degree heat treatments and added asprin to the res and that got me some new green growth but it's twisted and mangled. The new growth made me think I'd be ok to move some veg plants in so I did that and then did another hour at 120 degrees with new ones in there. Four days later the new ones have the same yellowing starting in the middle of the leaves. This has already taken a few plants from me so I need to get it figured out. Pretty much deciding between ogbio or the avid/forbid route. Wanted some opinions before I spend the money and take that leap.
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0140.jpg
    IMAG0140.jpg
    35.1 KB · Views: 23
  • IMAG0141.jpg
    IMAG0141.jpg
    61.9 KB · Views: 28
  • IMAG0142.jpg
    IMAG0142.jpg
    49.1 KB · Views: 25
  • IMAG0143.jpg
    IMAG0143.jpg
    50.1 KB · Views: 24
  • IMAG0144.jpg
    IMAG0144.jpg
    48 KB · Views: 31

Thomas Paine

Member
Veteran
Retro, I know they will be mainly under the leaves, but you can find them by the meristems as well. Broad Mites (dif than Cyclamen mites) also lay their eggs on top of the leaves.

Female broad mites lay 30 to 76 eggs on the leaf surface over an 8- to 13-day oviposition period

Source:http://www.entomology.umn.edu/cues/inter/inmine/Mitesb.html

-------------

Sunset Limited...

I have tarsonemid mites 100% sure.

You can see them and their eggs with a scope. Do you actually think I (or others) would not be certain by first checking our plants, and then checking then again a million fucking times? The eggs are easy to see.

But you will see the damage first.

I know what i am doing. I am doing what the literature says - remove infected plants. If I don't, then the vector for the bugs is still there. I am done treating.

Your posts show that you have not done enough research on this subject to even post in this thread, so I will disregard your negative, unhelpful, patronizing (and frankly dangerous) posts from this point on.

"Invisible mystery mite" ...Jesus Christ you are an ass.
 

sunset limited

Member
Veteran
CC—you don't have broad mites. you have heat damage and nute burn. your roots are also probably hurting.

if it were me, i would save myself a lot of time, nutes, electricity, and frustration and not flower these plants. sorry about your bad luck. consider starting over if you are able to do that..

TP— read the post between mine and yours. here is an unfortunate individual who has nothing that looks like mite damage and who, by his own admission, couldn't tell if he was looking at mites or trichomes. that didn't stop him from cooking the begeezus out of his garden though. and not once, but twice. now he's looking at plants that are on death's doorstep and beyond help, and he's toying with the notion of using chemicals to save them.

i am sure i couldn't offer a better defense for my words than this poor fellow has already provided.

you are probably a seasoned pro and there is probably nothing that you could possibly learn from a two-bit hack like me. irresponsible pesticide use is a huge problem in our thing though. i'm not that bothered by it if you don't appreciate me calling it out.

happy growing! :D
 
Last edited:

bubbler720

Member
Read though this whole thread over the last week and I think I've got the broads or something like this. I only have a radio shack 100x scope and I can't tell for sure if I'm seeing eggs or trichs or what...

CC, if ya missed it reading through the entire post here's a pic of what an infested plant looks like. note the dried out, crispy consistency of leaves and they way they're curling up at the edges like a taco. at first these symptoms were mistaken as nute deficiencies... What put me over the edge to find the answer was the stunted new growth -- for example the plant in this pic was stagnant for weeks.



I got a LCD scope to take pics: Celestron LCD Handheld Digital Microscope $80. Get one of these or a similar model to post pics and narrow down the possibilities of what is damaging your plants.



In your pics the leaves aren't taco-ed or dried out/crispy looking. your pic #2 is problematic - the new growth looks stunted but that could be b/c of the issues Sunset mentions - you won't know until you ID the eggs/mites yourself with a scope or better yet post some scoped pics.
 

sunset limited

Member
Veteran
I am happy to help with any questions. If I don't know the answer, I will do my best to find one.

Sincerely,

Cap :tiphat:


yo cap—

i've got a couple quick questions.

1. what benefit do you claim to get from adding verticillium? it's a known pathogen of a number of plants, cannabis included.

2. this abstract of a research study talks about using various bugs against BM. each was tested against B. thuringiensis beta exo-toxin which it says is a known acaricide. is that particular toxin present in the israelensis strain? if not, in which can it be found? do you have that?

thanks!
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
any of u indoor growers use co2 to kill um? It sure killed the fuck out my spidermites in a sealed off room.
I'm still not 100% convinced I have broad mites outside. This shit seemed to appear about a week or two after I had just sprayed floramite and then azamax for my spider mites.
I hit them with 3 in 1 safer, 2 days later some more azamax, and its been 4 days since I sprayed anything.
Plants are looking a little better, no more taco curl. But I had also changed up my food, gave them a dose of pro-tekt, bone meal, and bat guano. Its really tearing up one or two plants in particular, now I think the spraying burnt some of my new growth tips as they have been lookin funky in a different way, no more of the browning in the new growth stem and pistils tho.
Was thinking of foliar feeding with some compost tea and going from there......
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top